Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Volvo S60



  • I test drove the S40 and S60 of 2008 and found the steering wheel on the S60 feel weird, especially when turning the car. It's not accurate (sees not enough or more than enough when I turn it), or is a little dumb or not that responsive or not as smooth as that one on S40. Any way I felt some abnormal on that steering during test drive. I raised this question to the salesman and he did not answer directly and just said the S60 is heavier than S40 and I may feel some difference. I don't think that's an acceptible explanation. I am not sure it's a common on the S60 or it happens to be on that particular one I test drove.
  • Hello All

    I have 2006 S60 2.5 T AWD. In the text box, it displays "anti-skid service required" and "Park assist service required" when I start the car.
    Then I took the car to the dealer. The service dept said that they down-loaded new software to correct the "anti-skid service" message and they replaced one of the sensors on the rear bumper to correct the park assist service problem. However, just after I came back home from the dealer, the both errors reappeared. Have you had this problem??? Any help would be appreciated
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    the 40 and 60 have different systems.
    The 40's system uses an electric pump instead of an engine driven one.
    Plus, the assist is different in the 2 cars.
    The 40's steering is more direct.
  • I am currently shopping for a decent 2005 S60 2.5T AWD. I have recently been reading a lot of blogs etc on what a nightmare Volvos are. With repairs, services, transmissions, cost to repair, etc. Am I hearing only one side of the story? My payment will be quite enough, I don't want a car payment and a repair payment. Does anyone have any good news for me?
    Signed, a Jeep driver looking for change
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,303
    You have to remember one very very important point about reading messages about cars online ... people with problems are much more apt to seek out a place to vent than those who have no problems. So for every vocal owner with problems, there are a thousand who have absolutely no problems and therefore no reason to seek out a forum on which to post.

    This goes for every model of vehicle. Even Honda and Toyota produce their share of lemons and, consequently, their share of unhappy owners.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    05 S60 2.5T is a very good car.
    If you are worried about repair costs, spend a little more and get a Volvo CPO car.

    Volvo's are not cars to buy and maintain on the cheap.
  • vtdogvtdog Posts: 163
    I can't comment on the '05, but I just took my '07 AWD in for its first (7,500 mi) service. Other than a request to adjust fuel gauge accuracy (which they did by re-programming) there were no problems with the car at all. In addition, over the 7,500 miles the engine used less than 1/8 of a quart of oil.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Hey I would just like an opinion. I would like to know 1st if the 2002 s60 2.4 would be a great 2nd car. Coming from an 1995 Accord V6 (170 hp 17/24mpg).
    Info about particular car:
    *Gold S60 2.4
    *117k miles
    *Cold Weather package(even headlight wipers not sure about washers, heated seats. What else comes with it?)
    *power headrests in back and seats up front
    *Perfect interior. No tears, rips, nor stains.
    *about $7k(rounding up)
    *Dealer offering warranty

    Things I don't like:
    Not Geartronic, the "VOLVO" lettering on steering wheel, skimpy looking exhaust, Manual AC controls(4knobs), not turbo, and no wood interior. No fog lights and discoloration on some of the plastic guards on the exterior bother me some... But since i live in miami with rare fog days, and i live with people and often have door dings in parking lots, the plastic may be a good thing...

    I would love to get the 2003model just to avoid all theses problems! but not available for $7k. Also going from 170hp 165lbs to 168hp Doesn't seem like a big difference. Especially since I'm getting a safer car with the majority of the options I like. Better MPG is a plus!!

    I would also like to know if some parts are changeable with newer s60 models.

    I would love the newer S60's key fob(pocket knife design), Signal mirrors, and wood inserts for doors and above glove box. I guess the steering wheel too!!

    I guess a few options on the 2.4 vs 2.4T/2.5T too would be appreciated!!

    Thanks in advance,
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,303
    Maybe Miami is drastically different than NJ when it comes to volvo pricing, but I think the price seems a bit high. Dealer in my state has two 2002 S60s right now. One seems to be optioned the same as the one you are talking about, but only has 54k miles. Priced at $9890. The other is an AWD model with all of the above options and 103k miles for $7990. You may not WANT AWD, but I'm just posting it for comparison since taking away AWD and adding 14k miles to get your car seems like it should knock more than $1k off the price. (??) And the other with so few miles would seem well worth the added premium.

    To answer at least one of your other concerns ... I wouldn't let the 4 climate control knobs fool you. It still is technically automatic climate control since you set a temperature and the system does the rest. To be honest, I miss my volvo's climate control. I found it so much easier to deal with compared to a bunch of buttons and a digital picture full of heiroglyphs.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    WOW!! I thought that $7k was too low. The rest the 01-02s are going for $12k. The 03-04about $14k. 05-06 $17k 07-08 $33k. And most of them are really stripped models. I saw several with cloth! VOLVO MAKES THE UGLIEST CLOTH SEATS!!! They have squares in a polka-dot pattern on the middle of both sides of the seats.

    I'll continue to look around. But i'm beginning to lean on the 04.5+ S40s :confuse: ....

    I'm not in a rush. By the time I buy, the 06 S60's may be $6k ;)

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,303
    The rest the 01-02s are going for $12k.

    Well, they may be ASKING those prices, but I very much doubt that is what they are GOING for.

    good luck with your search.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • My remote quit working for trunk release.changed remote,new battry in remote. any help on finding trunk lid switch.or possibly something else wrong..tried all the usual parts stores(napa,pepboys. etc) have not called dealer yet... thanks,frank
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    Sorry, can't fix your remote problem but to open the trunk, (boot here in U.K.), look under the lip above the rear number plate. Between the number plate lights you'll see an obling rubber pad. It's the electric release for the trunk - just press. If your car electrics fail, ever, look to the right of the right-hand number plate light and you'll see a squarish plastic cover, (think it has a key symbol on it). Open that and you see a slot to fit your ignition key into - and open the trunk.

    Cunning, these Swedes. :shades: Hope this helps.
  • Thanks I'll try that..On a separate note...what would make the radio start scanning on its own? IE: I'll be listening to PBS and then all of a sudden it switches to rock and roll....not that theres anything wrong with that but... :D
  • herblevyherblevy Posts: 2
    I own a 2006 Volvo S60 T5 and am continuing to have a problem with a popping sound in the driver's seat....especially when making turns, accelerating, or braking. The dealer said they had fixed it with a TSB for the WHIPS system. The "fix" worked for about a week and then it was right back to making the popping sound. Has anyone encountered this problem and if so what else would you suggest I do to fix it. It really is driving me crazy! Thanks!
  • bybsbybs Posts: 1
    Hoping this is in the right forum.....

    My son just recently purchased a 2004 S60 2.5 T has 58,000 miles on it.
    He is getting conflicting reports on two maintenance questions....

    One: Should he use the recommended Volvo transmissions fluid and how often does the trans fluid need to be changed? I have had a dealer say "never....we don't suggest changing it" another one said "every 30-45,000 miles"....both are Volvo dealers so which do we go with? If the fluid is clean and red looking do we just leave well enough alone?

    Two: Changing the oil....what type and what grade do we use? Someone said 'use only synthetic' and change every 7500 miles...someone else said use any good 10/40 weight oil and change ever 5,000 miles. Always changing filter with the oil change. He will not be using this car in commuting, just errands and when they go on weekend trips.

    Any other helpful hints you could give me to give was his first car purchase and he did well with his choice (CR rated it a best buy and he got a good deal on it).

    Thanking you in advance.
    Patti :)
  • herblevyherblevy Posts: 2
    I am using ExxonMobile full synthetic oil and will change at the factory recommended interval of 7500 miles. I just looked at the oil, which has about 3500 miles on it and it looks almost brand new. I do know that the synthetic oil is better for the turbo. As for the transmission change, I'm not sure what to tell you. I would probably just leave it alone. The one time I did change trans fluid on a different car years ago the transmission started slipping where it hadn't with the old fluid.

  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    Hi, I'm an S60 D5 owner in that's my qualification out of the way.

    I would normally point you at the volvoforums site here in U.K. as it has answers for just about everything, but it's shut-down for the time being. You could look at the swedespeed forum, (USA based), as the "community" section has sub-sets for all models.

    As for gearbox oil changes; I don't think Volvo specify a change period for the oil and I don't think there is even a drain plug. Some U.K. guys seem to think that around 100k miles might be a good idea - but others say not to bother. Sounds like Volvo dealer 1 is following the party line and Volvo dealer 2 is chasing income. Possibly I'm being unfair here. If it's clear and red then I would leave well alone. Yes, I would use the designated Volvo fluid, if and when etc. Small price to pay for peace of mind.

    Engine oil changes are a whole can of wringly things. Here in Europe the '04 models specified 12000 mile/1 year changes and the later models now go for 18000 mile/1 year changes - including the diesels. Yes I would use synthetics but from my perspective 7500 miles is low and 5000 is criminal. The correct viscosity may be given in the owners handbook, or you could ask Volvo USA. Just looked in my Owners Handbook and it simply says to look at the decal at the front of the engine bay for correct viscosity/performance levels. Might be a good place to start. Short run/errands type mileage is worse for oil than good long runs.

    Can't believe how you folks get ripped on oil-change intervals. Same engines, same lubes but much shorter drain periods. However, your lubes are at give-away prices compared to ours so I guess it's relatively fair, even if it's not technically necessary, (correct spec 0W-30 for my D5 is equiv of $18 per litre over here and that's not particularly expensive compared to some others). Just as another example the VW/AUDI TDi's run to 20k miles oil drains here in Europe. Perhaps your history of fuel quality has a bearing, (er - no pun intended).

    Sorry I can't be more specific/helpful. The S60 is a great car - very comfortable - and the T5 is a gem of an engine, (but not as good as a D5, of course........... sorry, couldn't resist. Just completed a 1700 mile European trip at an average of 33 miles per US Gallon equiv including some 110 - 120mph cruising in Germany which is part of the reason I love my diesel). :)

    Your son made a good choice and I'm sure he'll enjoy the drive. :shades:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,303
    Well, I'm not sure how the geartronic will be, but I know that my S70 was NOT happy unless I changed the tranny fluid every 30k. So I plan to do the same in my wife's XC90 (currently at 25k miles).

    As far as using synthetic oil in the crankcase, I would ask your dealer what they think about changing now at nearly 60k miles. I think most mechanics usually recommend against it after 30k or so. (meaning, if not by 30k, then never)

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • sbearbsbearb Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 S60 T5 and noticed a clunking noise on the front driver's side (more noticeable when you drive over a bump). The noise seems especially loud when you drive it for the first time each day.

    I read a post from Nov. 2007 where someone suggested checking the spare tire but that is located in the trunk, so I don't believe that's it. Does anyone have any ideas? :confuse:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,303
    If its happening over small bumps, it is most likely the swaybar endlinks. Very very common replacement item. The other possibility is the upper strut mounts, but the endlinks is more likely the culprit.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • sbearbsbearb Posts: 4
    Thank you so very much for the insight! I'll keep you posted on what I find out ;)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,303
    No problem.

    By the way, if you are interested in doing the work yourself, it is a very simple repair. Additionally, aftermarket heavy duty endlinks are available. The stock links fail on a periodic basis while the aftermarket ones, I believe, carry a lifetime warranty. The are more expensive, however. Stock replacements are ~$30 and the aftermarkets are ~$100.

    Here are the ones from IPD

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • sbearbsbearb Posts: 4
    Great! I will be selling the car so I guess the stock replacements will be fine.
    Do you think the repair is simple enough for a beginner (and a female)? By the way that is not a trick question! :blush: If so, where could I find some simple demo/instructions?

    Thanks once again :shades:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,303
    I took a quick look around and can't seem to find detailed instructions. However, I did find several people stating they had a problem with siezed endlinks ... so you may not want to tackle this. I would THINK you shouldn't be looking at more than $150 total to have a dealer replace them. If you want, though, to be sure, you can get under the car and grab hold of the endlink and see if it is loose. If you can easily turn it back and forth by hand, its definitely bad. The stock endlinks have rubber bushings where they attach to the swaybar and where they attach to the strut housing. When those wear out, the endlink can be wiggled without much effort. When new, it is pretty tough to turn them by hand. Here is a pic I found on volvospeed from a poster named "lookforjoe" to maybe help you identify it.


    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • sbearbsbearb Posts: 4
    You have gone ABOVE and BEYOND any help that I ever expected to get on a forum! Thank you for the time you took to assist someone who doesn't know much when it comes to this. :P By the way, the pic REALLY helps!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,303
    glad to help

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • alextungalextung Posts: 2
    Hey guys, I have a 01 S60 2.4T and it has problem. I began to feel vibration when accelerating the car a while ago and heard some scratch noise from the front wheel since about 2 weeks ago after a trip to death valley.

    I took the car to the dealership and I was told the transmission has problem. I was told I need to replace a new transmission and both drive shafts. Plus labor it will cost me a forturn. Man I cannot afford that much on it and that's not what I wanted to do.

    I appreciate if any of you can recommend a garage in Las Vegas which is reliable and good at dealing with volvo and/or transmission work? I hope there is some expert can help me do a rebuilt. It doesn't have to be too cheap but should not rape me off. Thanks.
  • bbrimmerbbrimmer Posts: 32
    Hello. I'm in the market for a S60 AWD. My question was whether I should buy new or look at 05-06-07 and pocket the difference? My other choice was the S80, but believe it or not, for me the leather front seats in the S60 are more comfortable.
    I'm talking the 07-08 S80. Many thanks.
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    I bought my S60 D5 SE at just over a year old. It's an ex-Volvo UK car and had 6500 miles on from new. Perfect condition in every way, great dealer and approx £7k under new list. Bit of a no-brainer for me. However, this is the U.K. and you can't get the D5 which is a crying shame as it's a stunner. Agree about the seats. Driving U.K. to Switzerland/Italy/Austria/Germany was completely pain free. :)

    I'd probably buy the latest non-new car, with the best price, I could find...........unless there is some serious reason not to, (but can't think what).
Sign In or Register to comment.