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2008 T&C Ignition Switch Problem



  • jaws858jaws858 Posts: 1

    I don't have a permanent solution, but possibly a temporary fix. First, let me tell you what my problem is. Like most of you have mentioned, I have been stranded with my 2008 T&C not starting. I turn the key and it gives one click. It doesn't attempt to turn over....just a click. I have had it towed to the dealer one time and been jump started by a tow truck one time. Many other times, I was able to turn the ignition from 2 to 100 times and eventually the van would start. I have tried switching the gear shifter as some have stated, it seemed to work from time to time. I have had the van at the dealer 5 times now, all for the same problem. A couple of times they couldn't recreate the problem. They changed the negative battery terminal one time and said that fixed it. It didn't. They changed the starter one time and said that fixed it. It didn't. The last time they changed the battery and said that fixed it. It didn't.

    The most success I have had from getting my van to start was from my own non-mechanical knowledge tinkering. Here is what I did. I was trying to follow the cables in the wiring harness, beside the battery, to find any loose connections. After messing with it for about 5 minutes, I gave up and found nothing. When I went to start the car next. It started right up. It worked like that for about 3 months with no problems. Then it wouldn't start anymore. I went under the hood and messed with the wires again. Another 3 weeks of starting with no problems. Then, I couldn't get it to help anymore. That's when the starter was changed. 2 days of working and then the problem again. I messed with the wires and good for about a month. Then trouble again. Took to the dealer and they changed the battery. 2 days again of starting and then it gave me problems again. Now, every time it gives me problems, I mess with the wires and it works for a while.

    I know this is not a permanent fix, but maybe someone can figure out how to relate this wiring issue with some of the other temporary fixes and come up with a real solution.

  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293

    My wife's 2010 T&C Limited died at a stop light when it was only 3 months old. Wouldn't restart. Towed to dealer. Has it for 2 days and finds a place where the wiring harness in the engine was grounding out. Replaces entire wiring harness (under warranty, of course). That was 4 years ago. So far, so good (knocking on wood).

  • We are having the same problems with our 2008 T&C. I have replaced the battery twice in the past year and a half. I just replaced the starter over the weekend, then the van failed to start today. My wife took it back to our local Kauffman tire shop and they ended up changing the batteries on our remote/fob keys. I hope I haven't spent $$ on batteries and a starter and the problem was due to batteries in the keys. I know there is an active recall with ignition switch problems, but the dealership I use for warranty service - Hayes Chrysler Dodge in Lawrenceville, GA has told me they still don't have the parts to perform the warranty recall for over 6 months.
  • huge2huge2 Posts: 1
    They know about the problem. It's well known and I love when they act like they don't. Start by using only the key Fob thing alone.. Do not hang anything else on it. That worked for me.
    There was a recall on my 2010. but the recall only worked temporally. Now they want me to pay for a new ignition switch, where the key goes in on steering wheel. $500 repair. Crazy!.
  • aloha_guyaloha_guy Aloha StatePosts: 1
    I too, have this exact same problem with a single click and no start. On another forum, i have posted this exact problem. The most promising suggestion was to have the transmission gear position switch checked. I plan to have this done and will up-date. It has been a successful remedy.
  • I am having the same problem with my 2008 town N country van as a matter of fact, it's now parked in front of my house now. I got up this morning to go to work, started it with the remote star twice and it was good but when I got in and put the key it refused to crank even though it have full power. This is not the first time six months ago, I had to buy a new battery now it has started again. Hope someone could help me.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,728
    One thing that can interrupt the signal to the starter relay is the neutral safety switch---they can corrode, or come loose. The remote starter you used by-passes the neutral safety switch (but not the ignition circuit). So at least part of your ignition switch is working for sure.

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,111
    edited December 2016
    The ignition switch on these is very different from what everyone has experienced in the past. Here is a section of the schematic just showing the ignition node.

    Pins 5 and 6 are the high speed CAN data bus and the switch communicates the drivers inputs on the databus to the other modules. Pin 12 is the park signal and notice how the schematic doesn't effectively inform the technician if the signal comes from the shifter assembly, or if the signal comes from the ignition switch and the shifter controls it to ground. There is nothing with this system that can be reasonably performed without a scan tool that allows the user to see what modules are active on the data bus and what the inputs and outputs from each of them are. Even if someone worked hard enough to figure this out by hand, its very likely they could not complete the repair without a scan tool that can access the vehicle security system.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,728
    So does pink/white go to the starter relay?

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,111
    No. It only goes to the Totally Integrated Control Module (fuse block under the hood). It is only an input to the module and does not directly participate in engaging the starter.
  • oldf100_365oldf100_365 Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 T&C 4.0L with 205000 miles, 160000 of that is mine. I've pretty much learned more about this vehicle than I really wanted to know. I'm not 100% certain, but evidence would indicate that the problem is in the wiring in the automatic slide door on the driver's side. I've had problems with the flashing dash board as well as the "turn - click, turn - click, turn - start" issue. Whenever these problems are happening, the retaining plate on the wiring has come loose. I found a post somewhere that when this plate is loose, it binds up the wiring and causes a short. I just verify the wires are in place, tighten down the plate, and the problem goes away. Crazy solution to a crazy problem, but it has worked for me every time. I probably ought to put checking the bracket on my regular maintenance list when I change the oil.

    I also had the problem with no response from the ignition (no click, no lights, no nothing) but the remote start still worked. I had it towed to the dealer and they had to replace the WIN to fix the problem.
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