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Mitsubishi Diamante



  • glabglab Posts: 11
    I own one and will check the lugs tonight. Just curious, How long can the Rotors be exposed to improper Lug torque before any damage is done. If it's immediate not much you can do after the fact...?
  • glabglab Posts: 11
    Well, just finnished checking the lug nut torque and found that most lug nuts exceeded 150 ft-lbs. to break free. The wheels had just been mounted by the "dealer" two days ago......

    "subarusaleshou" was correct !! DO NOT TRUST THE DEALER !

    I validated that my brand new Eclipse GTS (That the dealer has not touched yet) had 70 ft-lbs lug nut torque.

    It appears an investment in a torque wrench is well founded !!
  • is important however I don't think a couple of days is going to hurt it. I am not a mechanic at all but I believe it would take at least several hundred miles before it would become problematical. I'm glad you got it corrected right away. I believe you won't have that problem in the future as long as the torque is kept around 75 pounds or so.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    Regular visitors to this site know that I have written an extensive article on the subject of brake pulsation and wheel lug nut torque. Read about it at

    You can bet that 90% or more of the time a mechanic will incorrectly torque the lug nuts. I have easily gotten over 100,000 miles on rotors by double-checking and retorqueing the lug nuts immediately after any mechanic has touched my, er..., wheels. On my current Diamantes, I have 37,000 miles on one and 15,000 miles on the other and neither car has measurable runout.

    In all my years of dealing with this issue, I have found them properly tightened maybe one or two times. In most cases, they are in excess of 150 ft. lbs. even if they use a torque wrench or torque stick, due to not knowing how to properly use these tools. For instance, they will fully tighten the first nut, then fully tighten the one across from it. That creates a lever action that will overtighten the first nut. The proper procedure is to tighten all to half torque, then go back and final tighten them to 75 ft lbs. Or they will tighten all the nuts with an air impact wrench to over 200 ft lbs, then use a torque stick or hand torque wrench to finish the tightening, obviously oblivious to the fact that the nuts are already too tight and the torque wrench doesn't loosen them to the correct torque. In many cases, they forget to tighten the one nut that has the lock on it, so I have four grossly overtightened and one finger tight.

    It is not the actual rotor warp you feel in your brakes, it is the variation in the thickness of the rotor that results from the pads wearing against a warped rotor. It takes about 3,000 to 6,000 miles for the warp to create enough disk thickness variation for you to feel it. So a couple of days being overtorqued isn't a problem, though your alloy wheels can be cracked or crushed by the excessive tightness, or the lugs themselves can be stretched and weakened, so it is best to demand they use hand tools or a torque stick from the very beginning or reinstallation and even then you should retorque them to the proper torque.

    Please also note that if they turn the rotors off the car or by using a hub mounted lathe, they can't get to zero runout and brake pulsation will occur in 3,000 to 6,000 miles. The only proper way to turn rotors is with a caliper-mounted lathe.
  • ldbrickerldbricker Posts: 140
    for a more detailed explanation and excellent information as usual. Following the same principle, I've never had brake work on my cars. I usually trade by 60-70k so I haven't fully capitalized on them but certainly have appreciated that a small and simple check on my part saves me from the problems so many have every 25-30k.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Well, since no one is talking about their Diamante, I guess I will give an update to liven things up a bit. Since the warped rotor issue, things have finally settled down. I've had no more problems with my car so I'm finally beginning to enjoy it again. The car is such a comfortable and serene cruiser. I love how the tranny quickly downshifts and the car just effortlessly overtakes slow drivers on 2 lane roads.

    I have been fairly impressed with the gas mileage my car is getting. My mileage has been averaging 20 mpg pretty consistently in 100% heavy city traffic and suburban driving. This is including some aggressive driving here and there, such as gunning it to feel the powerful low end torque and taking it to the redline a few times. Considering the car is rated at 17 in this type of driving and has a large V6, I'm quite happy with the mileage.
  • ldbrickerldbricker Posts: 140
    I am getting about 24.5 with my RalliArt automatic. I hope it will go up a little when it's got some more miles. Right now I have less than 900 on it. I'm really enjoying it as well. I really like the wheels on the 04 Diamante. We just got a black VR-X in that is REALLY a beautiful car.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    On both our 1999 and 2002 models, we get 19.5 in town and 29-30 on the highway. It is interesting that the highway mileage is as good as any rental car (Grand Am, Sebring, Century, Camry, Galant,etc.) I have rented on vacation, despite many of the rental cars having a smaller 6 or even a 4-cyl engine.

    Mr. Vivona
  • ldbrickerldbricker Posts: 140
    that would look really nice in my driveway next to the black VR-X that would also look very nice in my driveway. I better remember to throw away a dollar on a lotto ticket since it's $37M tonite.
  • diamantdiamant Posts: 7
    I also had the issue of warped rotors because of over torqueing. I just had the front ones replaced and the rear ones were machined.

    You could buy rotors from the dealer $180+ a piece but the Raybestos rotors ($80 a piece) as just as good. My mechanic thinks Raybestos makes the Mitsubishi ones anyway.

    Brake pads are however a different story. You only pay a small premium, $134 for dealer parts compared to $120 for after market but the difference is huge. The dealer parts just fit so nicely and are build way better than the best after market. My mechanic just loves Mitsubishi brake pads. He says he will never recommend after market brake pads for Mitsubishi anymore. He says I did the right thing by insisting on dealer brake pads.
  • diamantdiamant Posts: 7
    I am depressed. How do you get 30mpg on a D. I have a 2002 D and it will never get over 24 mpg. I use 91 octane.

    Is there a not so expensive to get better mileage. I don't want to spend $500 either.
  • glabglab Posts: 11
    I caught the dealer over torqueing the lug nuts so the dealer ate the cost of the replacement rotors. It's probably a good rule to just put a torque wrench in your car and when you pick the car up from being serviced check the torque right then.

    Thanks for the advice on the OEM pads. I do plan to use the Dealer exclusively but I think they are going to get tired of my Quality checks.
  • acx1acx1 Posts: 3
    Hi Everyone,

    1)Can someone please detail each step on how to replace the brake pads for both the front and rear wheels on a Diamante. I have a 1996 2.5 Litre Diamante. Would appreciate the assistance.

    2)Would anyone know why the brakes make a clicking noise when applied especially when moving from a standstill.

    3)Does anyone know how to replace or at least access the AC air filter?
  • acx1acx1 Posts: 3
    Does anyone know how to replace or at least access the AC air filter?
  • i would like to know if this car has an interference engine or not...appreciate any help
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    diamant - Neither of my Diamantes have anything special about them, they are both as they came from Mitsubishi. I get 30MPG when I fill up just before going on the interstate and drive only on the interstate until I fill up again. In other words, 30MPG is the "pure highway" mileage. If I have mixed driving, i.e. in town and highway, then the mileage will be between 20 and 30 depending on how much was in-town driving.

    I keep my tires properly inflated and drive 65-75MPH, pretty much within 5MPH of the speed limit. I use mid-grade gas. I live in the south, so this mileage was at 80-90 degree temperatures. I use Pennzoil 10W-30 oil.

    You should check the mileage "gas station to gas station" on the interstate to get your pure highway mileage. If it isn't at least 29MPG and you kept your speed under 80MPH, you need to check all the usual things that affect mileage. Some things to check are:

    1. Driving habits
    2. Dirty air filter
    3. Fuel leak
    4. Ignition timing
    5. Dirty throttle body
    6. Tire inflation (29 front, 26 rear)
    7. Vacuum leak
    8. Dragging brake
    9. Engine temperature sensor
    10. Air intake temperature sensor
    11. Driving in cold weather
    12. Driving with windows open

    You should be getting better than 24 on the road, so check things over and see if there is something wrong that is affecting mileage.

    Mr. Vivona
  • akboaraakboara Posts: 1
    Hi, I am planning on purchasing a use 93 Diamante with a transmission that shifts perfectly other than shifting in reverse. Anybody out there that might know what the likely problem is?
  • hank_in_ochank_in_oc Posts: 4
    Need some help troubleshooting the outlet on the center console (not the one in the ashtray) of my 2001 LS. It simply doesn't work. Is there a separate fuse?

  • ucscucsc Posts: 48
    Hi Vivona,

    COuld you please tell me how to check the air intake temp sensor? Thanks!

  • chaunceydchaunceyd Posts: 2
    Hi all. My 1992 LS has taken to being finicky with its HVAC. You see, sometimes the fan and temp controls work and others it doesn't. I then realized what was happening. Whatever setting it was when I last ran the car is what it's stuck to the next time around. It does eventually "unstick". Sometimes it takes minutes. Others, most of the day. Could it be the control module($!), the relay, or something else? PS After reading some posts, i must say I appreciate my mechanic more and more. I say hand tighten the lugs to 75 and it's done! You can't ask for anything more than a mech. you can trust.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I'd say it's either a relay (there are 2 that control the system), the control module, or a failing step motor. I'm leaning more towards a bad relay cause a relay failed on my 93 D ES that shut down the whole system. The fan wouldn't turn on at all. A bad relay can either fail completely or work eratically. A failing step motor can also do the same thing. The control module sends a message to the step motor which then operates flaps and valves to control the amount of heat entering the cabin and which direction the air should flow. The fact the system seems to get stuck and eventually works rather then not work at all suggests to me the control module should be fine. But I could be wrong. Either way, good luck! For your sake, I hope its a relay problem since those only cost $15 a piece.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    UCSC, are you still running a 92 LS?

    Mr. Vivona
  • chaunceydchaunceyd Posts: 2
    I read on the diamante website about using CD-2 oil detergent to clean and quiet the noisy lifter tick. After looking into it I discovered a product called Auto-RX. This product claims to offer a more thorough, effective, and safer way to clean lifters and the engine in general than other detergents (as it should). Has anyone ever used this? Give it a try or avoid it? I'm hesitant because I know these products can clean the sludge that actually keeps the engine from leaking. Then again I don't know how much of a problem those ticks are goin to be. 92LS 105K
  • Hi,

    I have an 02 Diamante with warped rotors at 30K. The wheels have been rotated by Jiffy Lube (not the dealer). Do you think if I bring it to the Mitsu dealer (and don't thell them that JL rotated the tires) that I can get them to replace the rotors under warranty?

    Alternatively, what are my chances of getting Jiffy Lube to own up to the overtorquing and pay the bill?

    Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Proving that the torque on the lugnuts warped your rotors would be a futile attempt and just end up aggravating you. I would say you have no chance of getting anything done through Jiffy Lube.

    Give the dealer a try. The worst they will say is, "its not covered", at which point you can decide to let them do the work or someone else. I wouldn't expect them to replace the rotors though. If anything, they may offer to turn them under warranty, but just realize that the rotors are out of warranty after 12k and the dealer doesn't have to do anything.
  • Thanks for the advice. The dealer (Stohlman in Tysons Corner, VA) told me the rotors are covered until 36k (the pads are covered until 12k). He machined all 4 free of charge, which has fixed the problem. If I detect the problem again before 36k, I'm going to ask for them to be replaced.

    On a seperate note, he told me my 02 Diamante LS has no Cabin Air Filter. Can anyone confirm this (I thought the car had one, but I must confess, I've never looked for it)?

    Peace out,

    w41 package
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Glad you got that taken care of so easily. My front rotors were turned at 6k but they are already showing the initial signs of warpage again at 9300. If it gets much worse, back it will go and this time I will request new rotors as well as more care when the wheels are installed. My friend tells me to get it fixed as much as needed under warranty, but I'm tempted to just buy good aftermarket rotors and call it a day. Other then the poor rotor quality, I'm enjoying my 03 D.
  • glabglab Posts: 11
    It's great to hear the dealer took care of you. Just always be aware that whenever anybody touches those lug nuts you recheck them with a torque wrench yourself.

    My DTV (Disc Thickness Variation)has not returned since I have personnaly retorqued the lug nuts to NO GREATER than 80 ft-lbs. It is NOT rotor warp. See Mr. Vivona's excellent article on this topic. This is a specification in the Diamante Service Manual.

    The Diamante (2002) does not have a cabin air filter. I am dissapointed in that exception as well !

    Good Luck
  • sboultsboult Posts: 1
    My mom has a '97 D and its by far the best car she has ever owned. Never had any problems at all. However, she has about 100K on it and needs to get her timing belt changed. I know this is fairly standard service and she could take it anywhere, but I was looking for a recommendation of a good service shop in the Oklahoma City area. The closest dealership is Team Mitsubishi, but they left parts and tools in my cousins Eclipse awhile back, so I'm reluctant to go there. Thanks for any replies.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    My 03 D just started dripping water on the passenger floor from the AC. It's still dripping under the car at a good pace, so I don't know if the hose is partially plugged or the hose has a hole. This is quite annoying because my 02 Lancer did the same thing (it flooded my floor on 3 separate occassions, stinking up the car, and the interior fan made a gurgling sound from the water flowing into it). It's obvious the screening they use is not good enough to keep debris from getting inside the car and clogging the hose. Anyone else have this problem? Where is the exit hole located so I can try to unplug it myself?
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