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Volkswagen Jetta 2005 and earlier



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    He is DEAD WRONG... It is obvious that "service advisor" you spoke to has not been keeping up to date with the published VW TSBs (Technical Service Bullitens) The mandate for synthetic oil came out several years AFTER some of the owners-manuals were printed.

    Run very fast from that VW dealership and never look back. That is one reason VW has such a poor reputation for reliability.... because there are some dealerships which chose to ignore VW and "do their own thing". I cant tell you how many reports I have heard about VW dealerships putting the WRONG oil in a VW. They still CHARGE what VW suggests.... but use cheaper oil.

    In the end, the vehicles do not last as long but that is OK with the dealership... they can always try to sell you a new car.

    Personally, when I have to deal with a VW service department, I usually print out all the pertinent TSBs and present them to the service advisor when I get there. That way, they can see the document complete wtih VW logo at the top. Using this technique, I have saved over $1000 over the past several years. We have 3 VWs in the family, we have gotten for free;
    *)MAF (Mass Airflow sensor) which was "recalled"
    *)Catalytic converter (Federal Law covers it for 100,000 miles)
    *)New fenders (12year/unlimted milage warantee on body)
    *)radio antenna (they tend to corrode internally and lose reception)
    *)Many other items...
  • lealsleals Posts: 2
    If you buy the jetta better get a second loan for all the repair and re-repair bills and transportation while your car is not getting repaired correctly.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,906
    I said goodbye to my 2005 Jetta GL today. It was hit by someone running a red light last Monday, and I found out today the other driver's insurance company has totalled my car. The body shop said the damage was definitely repairable, and their estimate was actually much less than the estimate from the insurance company. I have a sneaking hunch the car was totalled because very little of it is damaged (front driver's side and driver's door mostly), while the rest of the car including the interior is pristine, including 3 nearly new tires. So they can probably get a lot of good salvage parts off it.

    I bought it on 12/31/08, so I only had it for 3 months. I enjoyed driving it, as it absorbed the many pot holes on Twin Cities streets yet still handled well. And it was a nice size for fitting into tight parking places.

    I am looking for a replacement now and have found 3-4 similar Jettas I'm going to check out over the next couple of days. One is a red GLS with moonroof and Monsoon audio. :) But I'll check out some other options too. Need to get something by this Saturday, as my work schedule doesn't allow for any car shopping for a week after that.
  • fleasedfleased Posts: 19
    My lease is almost up (one more payment) and the buyout is $10,230. The mileage is 38k and the car is in very good shape. I'm torn about buying it and turning it in to buy something new. I bought my last leased car which was a 2003 Passat. It had been perfect for the whole lease and when I bought it, things started to go awry and I've sunk a fair amount of money into it since. I'm reluctant to do the same with the Jetta, but I love the car and would hate to get rid of it if it were to end up being a more reliable model than the Passat. I know that there's no way of knowing in advance, but thought I'd ask what the consensus seems to be on the 2005 Jetta as far as reliability issues are concerned. I've been looking at the the new Honda Civic and Hyundai Sonata, but I'd be lucky to get away with 18k buying either of those cars. Any words of wisdom for me on my dilemma? (Other than not leasing again, I mean!)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    ...the buyout is $10,230...I've been looking at the the new Honda Civic and Hyundai Sonata, but I'd be lucky to get away with 18k buying either of those cars.

    I'd say it would most likely take quite a while for the Jetta to require $8000 in repairs, so, as is usually the case, from a financial standpoint, keeping the car would be the better option.

    I think the 2005 Jetta 2.5 has been average for reliability, according to consumer reports. We are keeping ours, even though it has needed a few repairs under the warranty. We have about 30K mi and right now I could get a no deductible extended warranty to cover the next 4 years and up to 80K mi for less than $2000 from our credit union. So the warranty company obviously thinks average repair costs will be far less than your $8000 price differential over the next 4 years.

    I did not buy the warranty, as I figured the worst case might be something like $5000 or so in repairs, so that would only be a $3K difference. For my financial situation it makes little sense to insure against a possible $3k (or even $5K loss).
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,906
    First, if you are serious about buying the car, call the leasing company (is it VW?) and see if they will negotiate on the buyout. I was able to do that with the last leased car that I purchased at lease end, a Nissan that was leased from NMAC. The buyout price isn't too bad, and I've seen Jettas of similar vintage at around $10-11k at local dealers, but there may be some room to negotiate. It would only take a few minutes of your time to find out.

    Second, a 2009 Sonata GLS with AT can be had for around $15k + T&L depending on where you live, and I see Civic LXes with AT selling for under $16k + T&L on the Prices Paid discussions. Anyway, the Elantra is more comparable to the Jetta and Civic in size, and those can be had for under $14k +T&L. So a new car wouldn't cost $18k, but it would be more than $10k. The benefit of the new car is of course you'd have no out-of-pocket costs except regular maintenance for at least 5 years or 60k miles (in the case of the Hyundais). However, neither the Sonata or Civic (or Elantra) will feel like your Jetta (I own a Rabbit and have driven the Civic, Sonata, and Elantra quite a bit so I feel qualified to make that comparison).
  • meefmeef Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me the next step I should take to troubleshoot my jetta with an overheating problem? It runs at proper temp when in idle but heats up when I drive it a block or two. I have replaced the thermostat, the two fans by the radiator run when its hot, i checked the small top hose going to the ball-shaped resevoir but no antifreeze comes out when idling and its cool. Now what? thanks in advance!
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hi all: Does anyone know how to determine whether a 2.0 engine is an "ABA" vs. an "AEG"? Can you get that from the VIN...or what? Thanks, vwdawg
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The factory waterpump with plastic impeller is known to "come apart". Once the impeller is not connected to the shaft.... it does not pump coolant like it should.

    The waterpump is SUPPOSED to be replaced when timing-belt is replaced... I would expect your 2004 is close to needing this procedure anyway. The cost is the labor to get in there so you should replace EVERY MOVING PART that the timing-belt touches.

    oh.... many folks have a BRASS IMPELLER waterpump installed when the TB is replaced... that is what I did.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There is sticker on engine with the 3-letter engine designation. It is usually on the timing-belt cover.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Thanks, bpeebles, for the FYI...appreciate it! vwdawg
  • bew21bew21 Posts: 2
    My girl left her light on in her 2001 jetta from fri-tues while at the beach. when we got back the battery was completely dead and wouldnt start with a jump. i put the battery outta my truck into it and it started fine however it is running very very ruff at idle and will not accelerate until it has ran for a while. I can stomp the gas and it will only run at 2000 RPM. anybody have a clue? any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    wont go over 2000 RPM... the computer has fallen into "limp mode".

    The onboard computer "learns" as you drive and stores the 'learned' settings in memory so the engine is always finely tuned. If the battery was COMPLETELY dead, the "rememberd" settings are lost and one needs to drive for awhile so the relearning can occour.

    Additionaly, I would expect the radio may be in "safe" mode too.

    You may need to perform some of the other "basic settings" to re-teach the computer so it comes out of "limp mode".
  • bew21bew21 Posts: 2
    Thanks it is running better already. But i think i do need to perform some more settings bc she drove it to Atlanta yesterday which is a good 100-120 miles and then today it went into limp mode again in an intersection and after about 2 minutes she said it took off and drove right again. how do i make those setting changes?
  • hey just wondering where I can get a cheap timing belt for a 03 jetta 1.8 gl turbo, and at low labor costs?
  • Anybody know what type of fuse it is that's in the engine compartment of an '02 Jetta GLS 1.8T? I need to replace one but I can't seem find any info on what kind of fuse it is. I've looked online at O'Reiley's and all they seem to carry (online) are the fuses that go inside the passenger compartment; those aren't the same type are they?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I dont know about "cheap" but you can get a "kit" which includes Timing-belt, pullies, tensionors, waterpump, bolts....etc

    As for labor, you can call around and locate someone you trust for the price.

    I am kinda skittish that you are looking for "cheap". Are you aware that if not done properly, your engine can become an instant boat-anchor. This also means if JUST the belt is replaced... you are risking big problems.

    You should have KNOWN the timing-belt and all related components needed replacement - it is no surprise. You have had years to save $10 a month to pay for this needed service. Pony up and get it done properly....else suffer the consequences.
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