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Saab 9-5 Sedan



  • avg1982avg1982 Posts: 1
    This has happened to me 3 times on my Saab 95 (1999)----Dec 2003, May 2004 and today....just stalls...once onthe highway luckily was heavy traffic so no one hit warning...engine lite comes on and stops....should we write into NHTSA's Office of Defects to complain not sure how the process works with them..
  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    because of this web site i learned many years ago of potential problems with the di cassette.
    as a result ,and just in case , i purchased a di from the internet ,for $210.
    and ,i carry it in my trunk . i use the car for long trips and do not want to be at the mercy of a dealer $ 600. for the di is a rip-off because it takes less than 20 minutes ,if , to change this item.
    mine is a 2000 aero
  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    just got a letter from saab saying that they now guarantee my engine ,a 2003 aero 4 for 8 years unlimited mileage provide that i have done all services ,which i have ,above and beyond.
    changed my oil/filter every 2500 to 3000 miles and transmission fluid every 5 or 6,000 miles.

    but when the warranty expired i threw out all the oil purchase receipts
    i did my own work most od the time ,but the dealer did a good portion so maybe i am ok. just have to get all receipts from the dealer.

    car is now 6 years old and 80,000 miles .

    thought that saab built good cars.........major disappointment.
  • accsellaccsell Posts: 5
    Now Saab Says not to Upgrade Crank Vent! Bulletin.htm12/2004)

    NEW 9-5 Crankcase Vent / Oil Leak si210-2417.pdf 10/2003)

    9-5 Crankcase Ventilation / Oil Leak fix .pdf 2002)

    I had this service preformed by SAAB Dealer in Feb 2005 - $409.00
    DO-NOT-DO bulletin issued by SAAB in 12/2004
    Do you think Dealer should refund my money since they SHOULD have
    had knowledge this was to be immediately stopped by order of SAAB
    and any previously done procedure reversed if demanded by customer.?

    What Say ye? - Accsell
  • kwskws Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone-
    I'm considering a 2003 9-5 (4 cyl, 71K miles) as a potential candidate in my search for a newer (and a bit nicer) vehicle. My primary goal is to drive whatever car I select another 100+K miles and enjoy it. I've seen many of the criticisms around the repair history of the European cars, but I'm really taken with the styling. And I like the bit of luxury they offer, too.
    So...beyond the normal maitenance just what do I need to be aware of when looking at this car? (Or is the "normal" maitenenace enough to be scared away?...) And what should I be expecting at 71K miles and beyond?
    I have no history with Saab at all, so anything you can offer would certainly be appreciated.
    Many thanks,
  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    all i can say is based on my experience is to stay away from saab after 50,000 miles.
    i am going on 85,000 miles no major problems but with this new engine oil deal --read above --and what i have heard ,i suggest that you think before you buy
  • aeronautaeronaut Posts: 12
    Spyshot of 2006 update to 9-5. Real or photoshop? image
  • aeronautaeronaut Posts: 12
    Pic of my Aeroimage
  • mickkmickk Posts: 2
    I'm about to turn 100k on on a 01 95 Aero that I bought as a certified used with 33k in 03. I get great service from Just Saab in Fairfield, OH, the car has been almost faultless, and where else can you ge that performance and 30+ mpg on the interstate?
  • wesselwessel Posts: 4
    Did your car just die and then eventually restart. I am going on my 3rd summer of trying to find out why my car is stalling in the heat. In the winter its just fine but once its over 85 degrees I will be driving along and its almost like it ran out of gas but if Iet it sit for awhile it starts back up. I have it with a new mechanic right now and they still can't narrow it down. Can you give me more information on your cassette issue?
  • wesselwessel Posts: 4
    I am right now trying to find out why my 2000 Saab 95 is stalling on me. For the last 3 summers whenever it gets over 85 degrees, randomly my car will just stall. If I let it sit for awhile it will start back up but this can take an hour or so. I have had it into 2 different mechanics, neither can get it to die on them and haven't figured out for sure what it is. The think it could be a fuel pump but not sure since it has been going on for a few summes now. I am getting really frustrated and was referred to this website to maybe find someone who has had a similiar problem.
  • wesselwessel Posts: 4
    Where did you buy the cassette?
  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    i got the cassete from an e-mail place i think the name is EUROPARTS.

    STALLING i think that what you describe is vapor lock.

  • rico3rico3 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my 1999 9.5se. Were you able to solve the problem? What caused it?
    any assistance would be appreciated so I can pass it along to my new mechanic.
  • pattylpattyl Posts: 2
    I love my SAAb but I should have known I got a bad one when it broke down the first day I had it. I was doing 70 mph and all of a sudden, the car had no power. After two weeks back at the dealer, they replaced the throttle body ( had to get the part from Sweden).. This has happened two times since and the car only has 28,000 miles on it. Has anyone else experienced this problem ??? I think I have a LEMON !!!!!
  • tashfeentashfeen Posts: 2
    Have you checked the fuel pump.?
  • tashfeentashfeen Posts: 2
    Not possible to have 2 throttle bodies changed in such a short span. Change your dealer and also explain in detail what happened in the first place.
  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    it may happen to you . has happened to many from what i have read in other forums.
    this is the way it goes .

    you lose the low beam.

    the high is good. and you get home with it. maybe ?

    then ,you will lose the high beam.

    to make the story short.

    go to the engine fuse box.

    you will see that there are 4 headlight fuses .plus one grey low beam relay,plus an orange low,hi beam relay.

    check out the small 4 fuses first . they are in front and next to each other.

    if all ok , then the culprit is the orange fuse.

    here are your choices ,( i have just learned this over the past few days )
    dealer $110 for the fuse plus maybe another $ 60. to install ,etc...or more if they can get away with it )

    you---------- and this is what i did after being told how to. $20.

    take out the orange fuse by moving the tab on top to the side and then pulling hard on the fuse.

    then ,using a small knife pry open the bottom. easy to do,even i did it.

    then take out the circuit board .
    if you are able ,with a magnifying glass, look at the bottom of the board and you will see that there are 2 or 4 split solders.


    or, take the fuse out ,take it to a tv repair place and ask them to inspect and resolder the busted part.
    total cost $ 20.

    and reinstall.

    like my granchildren say, ALL DONE.

    happy trails again .

    and ,in spite of all this and other problems ,this saab is still my favorite car over my mb and others including an fx35.

    i may change my mind if this keeps up.
  • aeronautaeronaut Posts: 12
    Front, rear and interior views of the updated 9-5image
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Thanks for the photos. Although we have always owned Volvos (among others), SAABs I think have a nicer interior and are more fun. We went on a 400 mile trip over the fourth to ME in our Cross Country and my wife came back a day later in her friend's 9-5. She thought that the SAAB rode better and was a nicer touring vehicle. Incidentally, while in ME we saw lots of older SAABs but the Official Maine State Car, the one that replaced the SAAB, is clearly the Suburu. How SAAB let Volvo and Suburu shoulder them out of this market is a sad story.

    I think that given SAAB's lack of resale, a real steal would be a late model 9-5 AERO with the Air conditioned seats. Or a plain jane 9-5 very late model with a stick for real short (under 20K) money. Throw on some Blizzaks come winter and you would have almost AWD. Its real puzzling why the resale, especially in the Northeast, is so low. All those young studs in Bimmer 3 Series must have a fun time getting around in the white stuff.
  • pattylpattyl Posts: 2
    The throttle body was replaced only once. The second time the car started to idle really rough the dealer send the connection was no good. The third time I was told there was no clamp holding the hose connecting the throttle body to whatever it is suppossed to be connected to !!!!! Three different dealers have looked at this problem. By the way, the dealer in my city just dumped SAAB and I had to have the car towed 110 miles to the nearest one.Not a pretty picture :(((
  • Hi there,

    I recently bought a used 2000 SAAB 95 (100 K miles) and had the 24 point SAAB mechanical inspection. I had the serpentine belt changed, oil tank leak fixed and oil change. I can't remember if the 'check engine light' was on before I brought it in for inspection, but noticed it a couple hours later after I picked up the car. I brought it in the next day and the dealer assumed it was the sparkplugs so they changed all of them, and it was fine when I picked it up. Then a couple hours later the light came on again. The dealer said that if the sparkplugs don't work then I might have to change the ignition cassette. What exactly is the purpose of the ignition cassette? To start the engine right? Is there a need to do change this? It's quite pricey (they're charging me $500 for it). As far as I'm concerned, my car is in good mechanical order, the engine turns on, hasn't stalled and drives well. So what's your advice? Are there any other factors that cause the engine light to turn on? THANKS!
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Was this bought from an authorized SAAB dealer? (Most dealers that I know won't retail 100K mile cars.) If it was, the gentlemanly thing to do would be to put in a new cassette , no charge, and send you on your way. If it was not from a SAAB dealer, then maybe your state has some used car legislation protecting people from immediate problems such as yours. The 100K miles on the clock though might exempt them.
  • Hi blckislandguy,

    No, I didn't buy it from an authorized SAAB dealer. I bought it from a small used car dealer. What exactly is the ignition cassette for? Is it to start the engine? Where can I find out more techincal info on SAAB 95? Currently, my 95 is mechanically sound... the engine runs fine, the car drives well, and all the power options work.

    I made a slight mistake in my previous posting... it's actually the 'engine malfunction lamp' that is on when I drive, not the 'check engine' light. I read somewhere in the user's manual that you may still be able to drive your SAAB but performance may be affected.

    Is it an absolute must to change the cassette at this point? Thanks for your help!
  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    i have had my engine light come on and off for 3 years now,

    it comes and goes.

    i have had dealers do a computer diagnostic and have been told many different things as to what causes it.but mostly it is related to the di cassette.

    i do carry a spare cassette that i bought from the internet for $ is in the trunk.

    in my case the car now has 85,000 miles and i think that my problems started 3 years ago, my aero is a 2000 model , when i cleaned the engine and sprayed water on it.
    when i started the car the engine buckled so much that i thought i had broken something internally.after a while it came back to normal.

    ever since then the check engine light has been coming on.

    i still get 30 to 40 mpg and today i returned from a 1,000 mile trip delivering 31.5 mpg with the a/c on.
    i mention the mpg because a lower number would indicate a problem.

    hope that this helps.
  • ffb13: thanks for the tip!

    Do any of you know anything about SAAB remotes? According to the manual, once you change the battery, you should press the unlock button 5 times in order for the car to recognize the signal. However, this doesn't seem to work for mine. Any suggestions? How do I tell if the remote is broken or that the car's sensor is not working? How much does a replacement remote cost?

  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    sorry ,have no idea.

    and one more thing on the engine lite.

    it appears that the lite may come and go as a function of the memory retained .
    but make sure you double check this out.

    in my case i have had the fault erased from the memory twice and it still comes on which may mean that something is wrong somewhere. but as i stated ,so far so good
  • wesselwessel Posts: 4
    No! I have actually put $600 into it in the last few weeks. They finally thought it was the computer system and replaced that with a used one for about $250 or so and I was driving it yesterday and it died again. I have had 3 mechanics in 3 years try to work on it and the current one is baffled. Mine tends to happen in the heat and heavier traffic, usually after 15 miles but maybe 30-40 minutes of stop and go traffic. What codes are popping up when they check your computer? If you want you can call my mechanic at 303-691-9484, Chris is his name.
  • ernewellernewell Posts: 8
    jigga 6886,

    The ignition cassette is important and you do need to have it replaced - properly - to avoid a complete failure and to protect the catalytic converter from burning up.

    In Dec. 2004, at 51,000 miles, my 2000 95 had a complete failure between two hairpin, blind curves on a two lane mountain road. We are very fortunate that this didn't cause a head or rear on collision. In really rough weather, we had to abandon the car - and take up stations uphill and below to warn oncoming traffic that my car was stationary in the middle of their path. The car was eventually towed 110 miles to the nearest open dealership.

    The warranty had expired at 50,000 miles. To their credit, the dealership replaced the ignition module gracious. It would have cost me over $1,500. They promised to reimburse for the tow (which they never did).

    Remember the saying: 'You get what you Pay for?' The engine light started turning itself on and off. A few weeks ago, at 55,000 miles the car failed again - this time on a busy freeway. Problem? The catalytic converter burned up because the ignition cassette had not been properly installed. Gee thanks!

    Another important thing you should look into: Saab Cars sent out a letter on May 17, 2005 to owners of certain models and years regarding a possible engine defect that could cause 'OIL SLUDGE'. Your model is on the list. Saab was offering 'Special Insurance' for eight years to cover the problem. I called my dealership to learn what this is all about. Instead of giving me some basic info; they told me that until my engine fails completely, Saab has no obligation to me. I asked if I had to wait for the car to fail on the freeway and cause a piled up accident to get info on what this 'OIL SLUDGE' problem involves. Answer: 'This conversation is over.' Then the Manager of the Saab Dealership's Service department hangs up on me. Gee, I wasn't asking for a new engine, just a little info! Was that 'Special Insurance Offer' just a rouse to cover up something that should be recalled?

    Two weeks after that conversation, the car fails on the freeway and nearly causes a string of accidents! The cause is not 'OIL SLUDGE' but a burned up catalytic converter.
    Why? Because that same dealership that refused to answer a few simple questions had improperly installed a DI module, which they had replaced gracious because the original one was defective.

    What's a new catalytic converter cost installed? $1,500.

    My car has 55,000 miles on it, has had all the services recommended by Saab and many more oil changes than the # they recommend. There is something not right here!

    I'd advise getting your ignition module in working order! I'm told that having a 'DI module' (as it's called) fail at 100,000 miles isn't unusual; but, at 50,000 miles it is unheard of. Failure of the catalytic converter happens when the module fails, the car starts misfiring (which you may or may not be able to hear), the exhaust gets over heated because it can't leave the vehicle and the converter just burns up.

    I purchased my 2000 95 wagon new from a Saab Dealership - with only 100 miles on it. It's been a most regrettable investment. At 30,000 miles it developed persistent, mysterious oil leaks. The engine was pulled and the head and rear gaskets were replaced at least three times. By 40,000 miles the car's exhaust manifold was blown and exhaust bolts failed due to manufacturer's defects. Once, after having the car for repairs for 42 days, they returned it saying it was a minor problem. That minor problem was that they forgot to reconnect the turbo. The oil leaks persisted and it was back in for repairs within days. At this point I'm thinking that if the car didn't start out a lemon, they are doing a great job of turning it into one.

    Before the warranty was up, I took it in for two extra service inspections - for which I paid service fees. One service was with an independent repair shop and the other with a Saab Dealership. The independent repair shop gave me a comprehensive list of what Saab should take care of while the car was under warranty. The Saab Dealership said it was in perfect working order! I had to threaten legal action in order to get the Dealership to implement repairs that were covered by the warranty!

    The head technician of my dealership once told me: 'Lady, Saab's not going to figure out what is wrong with your car until the warranty is up!' I couldn't believe that anyone could stay in business with this approach. Well, he was speaking the truth and no wonder he doesn't work their anymore!

    My family, extended family and friends have purchased 14 new Saabs in the last two decades (the first one my father purchased in Sweden!) Mine is the only vehicle with problems that smell like a Lemon.

    Jigga, my story is not meant to dishearten you on your Saab purchase! Just protect your investment. Get that DI module replaced and look up the 'Special Insurance' Saab is offering for cars of your model and year regarding 'Oil Sludge'; and, follow their recommendations on oil changes and services.

    Hope your luck is better than mine!

  • ernewellernewell Posts: 8

    Please see response, #1923 on July14, 2005 to Jigga
    re: DI ignition cassette
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