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Lexus ES 300/ES 330



  • 99es30099es300 Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 ES 300. I really like the convenience of the all-in-one key remote found in the 2000 and above models. If I buy the key remote (blank) off the internet and have it cut matched to my key, can it be programmed to my ES? (The key looks the same, but is there ability to be programmed to the remote?)

    Also, it looks as if the 2000-01 tail lights (complete tail lights) will fit my 1999. Is this possible? What about the headlights?

    Thanks to anyone who can help.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 857
    Yes, thanks Pat. I posted in the wrong forum.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Why doesn't Lexus add a SuperCharger to the Camry Hybrid and market it as an ES250h..???

    700 VDC already available for a variable frequency AC power source for a nice compact 3 HP AC motor to drive the centrifical Supercharger.

    Virtually no power comsumption from the batteries until WOT or near WOT and then enough GO to make it POWERFULL enough for a Lexus.
  • 99es30099es300 Posts: 3
    A guy is selling a 1999 ES300 asking $9,000. It has 111,000 miles on it.. What are thoughts on this possible purchase? It is pretty clean and looks to be well maintained. From my research, I have found this to be a pretty reliable car... Anything specific I should pay attention to or look for?
  • es3000es3000 Posts: 1
    my middle vents on my '93 ES300 is blocked some how. When i switch from head and feet mode to head mode there is a knock sound in the dash area and air seems to be coming out defrost. Also air is trickiling out center but comes out fine on the sides and below, when in that mode. Has any one had this problem? If so how did u fix it? Do i have to take the dash apart?
  • larry1larry1 Posts: 29
    The tail lights from a 2000 or a 2001 WILL fit on a 1999. I've seen pictures on
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    There is a clear tube a few inches from where the jack rests under the toolkit pallet on the right side of the trunk. What does it do? Thanks.
  • 99es30099es300 Posts: 3
  • roachbuggroachbugg Posts: 15
    Hello all,

    I write because I have a question about an offer made on an ES330. A dealer has emailed me about a 2006 ES330 Black Diamond with NAV for 32,880. Does that seem like a good price? The car has about 4,300 miles on it. Sounds good to me- but I want to be sure. Any input would be helpful. Thanks :)
  • greayregsgreayregs Posts: 9
    Any recommendations of where to hide a key on a 2004 ES 330?
  • romka8888romka8888 Posts: 1
    Please help!!!
    I just bought a used 2002 ES300. It only came with one master key/remote. Is going to a dealer the only option to get the second key/remote? I have seen people selling uncut "factory" key/remote. Can they be cut and programmed either by myself or the dealer?

    Thank you for your help.
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    My just-bought 2005 330 has the rear license plate mounted with only the two screws at the top. As a result, when I close the trunk lid, it makes the car sound like a rattly clunker. Very tacky.

    I want to get a plain four-screw frame.

    The dealer's pretentious frame has shiny rounded caps over the screws. Do the caps snap off or what?

    Once I get the dealer's frame off, will I find provision to use four screws instead of two?

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Why advertise for the dealer?

    Buy a nice frame that uses 4 screws.
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    Yes, that's what I'm trying to do.

    My question is

    When I get the frame off, will I find holes for four screws or only for two? There is no clue looking at that part of the trunk lid from the inside

  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    What you need to do is add strips of adhesive rubberized foam at the back of the license plate so that it sits firmly onto the car when the tope two screws are tightened. Also, you may need to add little strips of electrical tape at the edges of the plate where it slides into the dealer provided holder to prevent rattles.

    I hope this is clear to you, otherwise please let me know.
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    I would still like to know if there are four holes or only two in the trunk lid.

    While I haven't been tried to get the caps off the two screws and remove them, I was able to examine and experiment with the setup.

    There are rubbery pads on the trunk lid apparently where the lower two holes would go.

    vcheng is right that the lower part of the license plate is rattling in the frame.

    Since there doesn't seem to be any easy way to get at the back of the trunk lid, I assume that you must use sheet-metal screws instead of bolts and nuts.

    What a cheesy setup for a quality car from a fancy dealer.
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    (I say the following light heartedly, so please don't be offended.)

    "I would still like to know if there are four holes or only two in the trunk lid."

    Two holes in the trunk lid, with threaded capture nuts intended to hold the licence plate. Uno, dos. No more. No tres or quatros.

    Please don't use sheet metal screws to start new holes. They'll start the rusting process and it'll get ugly (and expensive) to repair.

    I have used the foam tape method for all my cars with good results and no rattles, even with booming music. Try it, you'll be surprised how effective it can be.
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks.

    Will try sliding some double-stick tape between the license plate frame and the licence plate to stop the rattle when I close the trunk.
  • jbolltjbollt Posts: 737
    I've done the same with my last 3 Toyotas...I used a Scotch foam mounting tape, specifically designed for outside use, as I discovered early, that the regular "inside" foam double sided tape didn't hold up well in AZ...don't know if it was the heat, or our very limited rainfall. I put it between the plate and the trunk lid, and the plate and the frame.

    Good luck, and enjoy the quiet trunk...Realy a shame that Toyota and Lexus don't provide the second set of lic plate holes, but this solves the problem.
  • patepate Posts: 8
    Different people have given me different advise on this matter. What is the impact of using the low octane vs the top octane fuel? please advise. What will be best for the car or does it matter?
  • patepate Posts: 8
    My ES 300 a 2003 model is almost pin drop in its silence. I often stand by it and just marvel and whne driving I am in awe. It is not the high end Lexus so it still has a way to go and cannot reach the LS 430. I have test driven all the cars in its class though, Mercedes 240,320; Acura TL, Infiniti and they are really loud compared
  • patepate Posts: 8
    Hear hear. The Lexus speaks to class, Chrome not so
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    Check the manual for your model. You register your car online at with the VIN number.

    For my 330, the manual says 87 octane, so I imageine that is what the 300 manual says.
  • richbf2richbf2 Posts: 73
    I have an 05 es. It does not come with HID lights. Therefore, lights at night are dimmed. I can barely see ahead even with foglights on.
    Does anybody know where to get brighter foglights. I just want to install higher watt foglights since the headlights are complicated to work with. I dont want to mess with it. Thanks
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The foglight assembly, reflector, lens, etc, is designed for a low and wide forward beam pattern, totally ineffective at night to help with distance vision.

    In point of fact having the fog lights on with your low beams results in a significant reduction in your forward vision at night due to the additional close-in useless illummination provided by fog lights. Much the same as bright interior lights would cause your eyes' retina to close up so does the close in lighting of the fog lights.

    If you want to see farther at night then turn off those fog lights.

    All of my vehicles have the ability to turn on the fog lights alone if/when needed. I modify the ones of asian design origin to accomplish that but the european origin ones come that way.
  • richbf2richbf2 Posts: 73
    Hello Mowtownusa!

    thanks for your reply. Actually, on the es330, it is more complicated to replace than other vehicles. You cannot just simply use screwdriver to snap the 2 levers open ( it is very easy to replace on the Sienne Van, solara and highlander). It took me 1hr to try to unscrew the 2 nuts. I finally gave up. I DONT THINK IT HAS AIR FILTER. It does not mention in the manual. :confuse: :confuse:

    Please advise. Thanks
  • richbf2richbf2 Posts: 73
    Thank you Wwest! :shades: :shades: :D
  • mlgibbsmlgibbs Posts: 1
    I have an ES300 2000 model Platium Ed. Currently have 262K miles. I replaced the engine at 200K with one from a wrecked ES300 with supposedly only 40K miles on it. Of late when I crank up the car the idle in park or neutral will oscillate between 2000 and 2800 RPMs. If I turn on the AC it will stabilize at 2000K RPMS which is up from the original 750. It started this a couple months ago, and then got where it would not idle at all. That is to say if I took my foot off of the gas anytime when it was running in idle or in any gear it would shut off. Then it just righted itself and worked fine for a month or so. Now I am back to the same situation. What can possibly cause this condition and what needs to be replaced or checked in order to remedy this problem? Thanks for any input or help.

    Mike Gibbs Tifton Georgia :confuse:
  • I have a similar problem. I have the shop manual, and admittedly I have not reviewed it in detail, but I don't remember any "compressor revolution sensor" in the schematics.
    Have you been able to figure out what was the problem?
    Thanks, John
  • I have a 1995 ES 300 and the A/C stops blowing cold after running for awhile. Then it blows hot. The compressor is running OK and there are no bubbles in the site glass. After shutting it off for awhile, everything works OK again. Any ideas? Thanks.
This discussion has been closed.