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Mazda MPV



  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Maybe the Idle Air Control valve is going bad.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,651
    Your coils could be going bad.

    Did he check the fuel pump for suffecient pressure? Keep a full tank of gas, if that helps any then I'd say the fuel pump...maybe filter. Just a guess.
  • HELP-I have a 2000 mpv - just replaced the transmission about a month ago.
    Last nite I tried to back out of parking spot and the car started screaching when I tried to put it in reverse-sounded like metal-on-metal and there was a burning metal smell. The van wouldn't go into neutral and wouldn't turn off. I put it into drive and the screaching stopped.
    Couldn't turn it off because it would start screaching if I took it out of drive - turning off the key wouldn't help - the van would still run -
    I had to remove the fuel pump fuse to stop the engine.
    Once the engine was off I tried to remove the key and put the van into Park - immediatley the starter engaged without the key even being turned.
    Had it towed to the transmission shop but they say it has nothing to do with the transmission - maybe electrical.
    Does anyone know what's going on?
    Thanks so much
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Do you have a remote starting system?
  • kinkokinko Posts: 48
    my squeaky steering problem is still not fixed. They lube it 2-3 month ago, and it got better but it did not fixed it.
    Now I was told that the clock spring needs to be replaced. Meanwhile, I asked them to check out the vibration coming thru the steer wheel from the front-end. Hopeful there is not problem with the suspension. This time I had to checked out a rental paid by Mazda, and it is the first time since I'd bought it 3 years ago. What bugs me was the bumpy and stiff ride I felt from my 3 years old MPV, comparing to the ride in a 06 or 07 Hyundai Sonata rental. That Sonata with the V6 is very FAST and SMOOTH. Maybe it is the fact that the MPV sits higher than a car.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,651
    I got a $19 oil change at my Mazda dealership the other day, discounted down from $34. They did a good job with the oil change, used Valvoline... and even gave it a quick wash after.

    They did try to sell quite a bit though. I'm currently at 28k, and they wanted me to do the 30k mile service. That would have been $540... which I declined. They said the OEM Dunlop tires still had about 7k on them and asked if I wanted a rotation and balance. I stated I would be replacing them within about 5 months. I did get some quotes on tire prices though. They didn't carry any of the tires I was interested in. A replacement set of OEM Dunlops were $189 a piece with $60 to mount and balance them all... a definite pass on the Dunlops. :)
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,651
    to my MPV. Exactly 3 years ago today I drove her home from the dealership with 12 miles on the odometer. The family and I have been very pleased thus far with the overall quality and reliability (knock on wood). Still get comments on it's stylish good looks... just like the jipster. :shades:
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Congrats! Ours turns 5 at the end of this month. DW still loves her MPV, that's what matters.

  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,651
    Thanks Brian. After 3 years DW and myself still look forward to getting behind the wheel.
  • kinkokinko Posts: 48
    The squeaky steering problem's finally been fixed. But I was told that the same problem could happen again in the future. It must be a $300 to $500 job because it took them all day.
    About the vibration, the dealer indicated that the front left tire is out of round(easy to say). They did not even both to balance those tires for me as I'd requested. I guess I have to bug the other dealer who sold me those tires thru tires for life program. what a pain, I should have picked the Michelin instead of the Yoko.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Well, if they did replace the rack...then, it will be fixed.
    That's what they did on mine under warranty.
    Keep your fingers crossed.
  • Can I please get some information on how to flush cooling system on mpv 2000? Thanks a lot in advanced.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,933
    My 2002 MPV started stumbling when I was out of town this week. The way my wife described the problem, I couldn't tell if the problem was due to the tires (recently replaced the fronts when one went flat), tranny, or other. So I drove it when I got home last night and it stumbled at slow speeds. My wife and son said it was fine on the freeway. I went out of town again today but they took it in to the Mazda dealer. Problem was a bad ignition coil ($350 parts + labor, covered by the extended warranty). The dealer recommended that the plugs be replaced at the same time, since the warranty company was basically paying much of the labor cost with the coil replacement, and the van is nearly due for its 60k service. Seemed reasonable--$140 for that. Then they said the front rotors were warped and the front discs were at 15-20% and recommended replacing both. I hemmed and hawed a bit on that, since I've never noticed any braking problem, but since it's the primary vehicle for my wife and kids, it's good to have the brakes ship-shape. Total will be about $400 for brakes and plugs. :cry:

    Then in a couple of months I get to pay for the 60k service, but at least it won't need spark plugs or brake work then (rears are in good shape).
  • I had my Mazda MPV in for service in June. Had always used Mazda dealer for all services. As of now it has 47,000+ miles. At end of July, brought it in to non-Mazda service station for a flat tire. When I went to start car after tire repair, it wouldn't start. Service station checked and found that one of the battery cables and what holds it onto the battery had disintegrated. Was told that because Mazda, in it's mysterious wisdom had chosen to make it all one piece, it would be a big job to replace and the part would cost me $1,000.00. I immediately called my dealer, who proceeded to advise me, that they had been sold, a week before, and the new owners had stopped selling and servicing mazdas (the second time this has happened since I bought my MPV in June of 2003), so that there was nothing they could do for me. Also, that my warranty had run out at the end of June. I called Mazda of North America, and they refused to do anything for me, not even allowing me the courtesy to let me pay to extend my warranty. My new service station said they would try to splice a cable to the old cable to get the car going. They had to go quite far, but didn't pull out the engine (as would be necessary if using the Mazda replacement cable). The car has now started beautifully, no problems until tonight September 10. I now have to find out if the spliced cable is no longer working, or if there is some other electrical problems. Anyone have any ideas?
    In addition, my car started bucking around the same time. I'll be driving and all of a sudden it gets jerky. I brought it in to my new service station and they said they believe it is a faulty cylinder, and that it is one of the rear cylinders. Since the check engine light isn't coming on, they have no codes to go by to determine which cylinder isn't working properly. They said I would have to go to a Mazda dealer to have them determine which cylinder is the faulty one if the check engine light still doesn't come on.
    The person from AAA who came to jump my car this evening, said he thought if I got a good set of new spark plugs, that it might help the situation. Does anyone know anything about this?
    I bought this Mazda against my better judgment, having had a Mazda previously and gotten lousy service. But the dealer we bought it from insisted Mazda had changed. Well, I am here to tell that Mazda hasn't changed and that's probably why two dealerships in 4 years have gone out of business in my area. The only two remaining dealerships in my area are extremely inconvenient for me. As I told the people at Mazda of North America when they refused to do anything for me. When I had my Dodge Caravan, which had many problems, they always worked with me on the major repairs. At this point a lemon from Dodge which will work with you, appears to be a better deal than a lemon from Mazda, which won't work with you. I will never buy a Mazda again, and I am telling everyone I know not to buy a Mazda. Mazda stinks. However, as I am stuck with this car for awhile, I would appreciate it if anyone out there has any ideas about what could be causing 1. corrosion of the battery cable; 2. any other electrical problems that might make the car not start; 3. what could be causing the bucking or jerking.
    Thank you.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    a battery cable should be something you can get at an auto parts store. bring it over to them and have them look at it. generally, the corrosion you will see can be easily cleaned with a steel brush, and the terminal put back on the battery to make a sound physical conntection with good electrical continuity.

    the "bucking" and hard starts could be because of an intermittent battery connection. both leads need to be checked.

    it could be something else of course. did you physically try making sure each cable to each spark plug was on the plug and distributor well?

    you could have a clogged EGR valve or port.

    after your trip to a local parts store for advice on the battery cables, it might be time to seek out another mechanic.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    that service station isn't very creative. just purchase a new lead terminal and cut off the old one. Attach the existing cable to the new terminal. Be sure to clean with baking soda and water before you re-attach the cable. 15 minutes and $2 later, you'll be back in business.
  • Thanks user777 and maltb. Unfortunately, due to the design of the battery cable/lead terminal in the Mazda MPV, just attaching a new lead terminal wouldn't work. One the cable wouldn't reach as far as the replacement lead terminals the station had on hand, and two the battery cable itself was so corroded quite far down the cable that it had to be cut out and another cable spliced back in. The electrician at the service station did try cleaning the corrosion first. This jerry-rigged repair cost me less than 1/2 the price of taking my MPV to an inconveniently located dealership, having them replace the battery cable with the corresponding Mazda part of $1,000 and paying them for the labor on top of it. However, I do wonder if the cable splice is that good, and could be causing the intermittent problems I'm having. Have an appointment to take it back tomorrow for them to check. But maybe your suggestion of taking it to another place to have a second opinion is good.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    A jerry-rig repair for $500? I hate to say this but you may have been taken. A new cable, and splicing it in should have been a repair that should have been relatively inexpensive. Continue reading.

    It isn't rocket science, but it must be done properly. If you have to splice in a new battery terminal and lead, then there is probably a clamp an auto-parts store sells that would give you a good mechanical and electrical connection and is the proper size / gauge to carry the amps (current) required of the starter and other electrical equipment.

    If it is the positive lead (that would be red or +), and your description seems to imply this, then you need to make absolutely positively sure the splice or clamped area that mate the new battery terminal and wire to the old wire is wrapped quite well in insulating material so that it cannot make contact with the frame of the vehicle which is connected to the (-) negative lead of the battery. If that were to happen, you'd have an electrical short and the possibility of battery explosion or fire.

    My guess is that autoparts stores like NAPA or Autozone or PepBoys (or fill in the blank) sell a kit to do exactly this with some insulator for the connection between the wires, and at minimal cost.

    Yes... I think a second opinion is warranted here, and yes, if the jerry-rigging is poor, could contribute to your symptoms.

    Good luck to you.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918

    As user777 suggested, you should have gotten a second opinion. The link above is a battery cable for a 2002 MPV at Advanced Auto parts. There is no single part in the engine that should run you $1000. Based on what you are describing, I'm not sure a corroded cable was your initial problem.

    Based on your post, did you ever verify that the battery cable was $1000? I know this is what the new mechanic said and I know you called your former Mazda dealership but you never indicated the cost of the part was verified.

    I would suggest canceling your appointment with the mechanic and taking it over to a Mazda dealer, no matter how inconvenient it is. Then read through this forum. I'm sure there are others who have had the same issue you are experiencing now. I have yet to see anyone talk about a bad battery cable causing this problem. EGR valve, bad ignition coil, yes but not corrosion on a battery cable.
  • Thanks again User777 and dtownfb. I will take your advice and bring the MVP elsewhere for a second opinion. However, I did verify with Mazda of North America about the price of the battery cable. The person I spoke with there couldn't believe that the cost of the part was $1,000.00 either, but he researched it and came back to me and told me it was, and that was when Mazda decided it wouldn't help me out in any manner. Doesn't look good, that Mazda dealerships, who are supposed to perform "full" inspections with each service, don't notice the problem and then 1 month after both a service and the warranty expires with under 47,000 miles I start having these problems (with a battery that had already been replaced a year prior), and within the space of 4 years two dealerships have dropped Mazda, and Mazda won't help? Not great public relations on their part? The least they could have done was tell me to take it to another Mazda dealer and let them check it out and determine if this really was the problem and then decide what they would or wouldn't do. But the response from Mazda was basically, sorry, nothing we can do for you. Anyway, as I said I will check into what you've advised. Hopefully, you are both right and I can get this fixed quickly and inexpensively.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    Mazda's main battery terminal is not a 1K part. I'm sorry, it just isn't. If Mazda were to have made that part 1/4 of that price, they would have been insane.

    In quantity, it's a very cheap part. Now perhaps they have no more in their system, but as another poster showed you via a link, a suitable replacement is going to cost 10s of dollars at most.

    I'm so sorry for you. It really sounds as though someone has worked the situation and cost you big $$$, when that shouldn't have been the case.

    Also, I apologize, but there's something about your story that isn't really adding up. Is there something you are omitting? I'm just having trouble with the information thus far presented.
  • I've got a green 2001 ES which we've been very happy with. Unfortunately, my son has finally managed to break the handle off.

    Anyone know if this is something that a DIY'er could manage, or should I just take it in for service at a dealer ( I assume I'd have to get the part at a Mazda dealership anyway )?

    Anyone know the cost of the part or service?

    Thanks for any info!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    It's probably not hard to fix. Th issue will be finding the part outside a dealership. I would call a dealership and ask for a price to fix it then call a body shop to compare prices. Body shops have access to these types of parts as well. Most of the time their labor rate is much cheaper then a dealership.
  • steinprsteinpr Posts: 11
    I bought my 2002 mpv brand new, I brought in the 2 different mazda dealers to check the transmission and gas mileage, I once burnt my hand, i was holding my coffee and the car gave a jerk that spilled my coffee on my hand. the dealers could not find anything wrong. of course at 18,500 miles while driving with the family doing 65, the car just stalls I lost all power steering, brakes... (we are all lucky to be alive) this was friday evening, earliest a dealer can look at it is Monday. Manhattan Mazda replaced the tranny under warranty, it took them 3 weeks, they authorized a rental car for the 3 weeks, 2 months later the rental car company charged my credit card, Manhattan Mazda reneged on the authorization code. needles to say I was out $600.
    Now at 53,000 miles my car just died, i was doing 55 with out my kids in the car ( I'm scared to put them in the Mazda) they think it is the alternator.
    to make a short story long, this Mazda MPV was a waste of $25,000 plus.
    Never Again
  • I'll answer most of my original question.

    Turns out it's not too hard to replace. After removing the inner door handle ( little metal clip holds it by the collar ), you can wrestle off the interior cover ( held in by a bunch of those plastic clips ), then remove 3 bolts that hold the door handle assemby to the inner part of the door, then 2 nuts which hold the external door handle.

    All in all, I say it took 30 mins to remove and 30 mins to put back.

    Bummer was the door handle was $167 @ Mazda Parts department. FWIW, my wife said the parts department guy said he thought it was $100 to have it installed.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 8,882
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  • I have a 2004 lx with the towing package. I had a popping nose in the rear of the van. Took it to the dealer and found out that the muffler was hitting the tow bar under the van. The dealer said that there was nothing they could do with it. I will try to put some high temp padding on the tow bar to stop the popping nose. I love the van. We get about 21mpg in town, and 26 on the highway. I have had a mazda for 12 years. Still have a 1999 protoga with 107K miles on it. No problems other than bracks and oil. Would like to know if anyone has the same problem with the tow package that I have thanks. :shades:
  • juneljunel Posts: 1
    We purchased a brand new MPV in summer 2001. We followed the maintenance schedule closely and have all the proper maintenance work done. In 6/2007, the engine light was on so we brought it in to the dealer place and was told it was an electrical problem. It cost us over $500 to fix it. Last Monday, the engine light was on again so we brought it back in again. This time, we were told the compression was too low, so we would need a new engine. The van has only 68K miles on it and we took good care of it. I just can’t believe it would die at 68K. While I am waiting for the new engine price, could someone tell me what’s going on?
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I'm no mechanic, but I would get a second opinion! My check eng. light has come on several times; once due to a compressed PVC hose that they did now cover for $100 and the other time due to a cracked spark plug. Of course I had them replace the 3 front bank plugs since it was costing me about the same for one or 3 anyway. I can't believe that the eng. is 'bad' after 68K miles....that seems a bit of a stretch. Do you know/trust any other mechanics. If you've been changing the oil about every 3K miles, that engine should last a good long time!
  • My rear door handle also broke off recently an the other rear door handle is about to break. I was quoted by a dealer at $170 for a new handle which doesn't include the labor.
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