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Toyota Echo



  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    this car has a BB value of $7000. However, when I was looking recently, I found that gas-sippers like Echo and Corolla are going for a premium right now, maybe because of spiking gas prices last year? I dunno. But if it is in that good a condition, you might be able to get $7500-8000 for it - I hope you have those service records.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I forgot to mention - last fill-up was 379 miles, 9.5 gallons, which is............40 mpg! :-)

    I was pleased, although of course my running average is only 39. All this driving has been in town, no hiway trips or anything, so the car is delivering on the FE I bought it for.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • i haven't had much trouble with it at all.
    i change the brake pads each year myself.
    my knowledge of cars and mechanics in general
    is very limited. basically, when there is a
    problem, i attempt to correct it myself. if
    i can't understand the problem, i ask a friend,
    a co-worker or recently the internet. if all else
    fails, i go to a mechanic. i had bad experiences
    with mechanics untill i met this fellow. he doesn't
    take advantage of my "mechanical disabilty" (ha)
    the biggest problem i had since i bought my ECHO
    was the a/c. it worked but never cold.
    in 3 years i needed a new compressor. it is the
    size of a 2 liter coke. it holds approx. .6lbs
    of freon because it is so small. that is why the
    a/c is only cool at best. the machamic who replaced
    it overfilled it with refrigerant. last summer it was
    very cold in the cab. i had a nice summer. i haven't
    been able to fix my blower because i can't take out
    the white plastic housing behind the glove compartment
    that will access the blower. i took out every screw i
    saw with no luck. i guess this one needs a mechanic.
    so far, this is the best car i have ever owned.
    i want to change the spark plug wires but i wonder about
    the way it is taped around a plastic coil. i changed
    the plugs with busch plugs, 1 plug died and the
    "check engine" light appeared. that led to replacing the
    catalytic converter at a cost of $700. struts were $370.
    i changed them after 200,000 miles of driving. WHAT A CAR!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    >...40 mpg!I cant take out the white plastic housing behind the glove compartment that will accss the blower>

    The manual says you have to remove the computer after you remove the glove compartment door. Did you get the computer out?
  • Yep, got all of the service records from reinhardt toyota in montgomery,al where the servicing was done!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    a trip to San Diego in the little guy just to see how good my fuel economy could get. On the way down (600 miles or so each way) I held the speed to no more than 72 mph, running without the A/C (driving at night), and managed about 46 mpg. Was quite impressed.

    On the way back, I drove halfway with the A/C running, and often at speeds over 80, and only managed about 40 mpg, so the A/C and high speeds definitely have an impact on the FE. I know, I know, DUH! Right? I was a little surprised at just how much it impacted it. I will have to figure out if it is the high speeds or the A/C that really knocks down the FE in this car. Additional future testing! :-)

    More than one reviewer knocked this car for poor long-distance comfort and support from the seats, but I found it to be more comfortable than a number of other cars I have had, even after six hours at a stretch.

    It was 88 degrees where I was at yesterday, and the A/C performed like a champ. Quick to cool the car (which is pretty small after all), and very good at maintaining the temp once achieved.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Your mileage coresponds to my experience with my 2001 five speed manual in every instance. I once got 51 mpg driving the car for 200 miles at a steady speed of 60 mph, in summer, no AC. Driving it a steady 80 mph for a 500 mile trip, no AC, summer or winter, resulted in 40-43 mpg on numerous occasions.
    I have not experienced problems with the AC cooling the car as others have, although the air coming out of the vents is not as cold as some cars I have driven. I suspect these problems result from not putting the air lever on recirculation.
    Although I weigh 250 pounds I am very comfortable driving my ECHO even on long trips. No problems there at all. Additionally, because it sits so high, getting in and out of the car is easy too. Its easier than getting onto and out of my wifes 2005 Camry and thats a BIG car.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    we have a parking lot with long spaces, and I put my car all the way in. There is a lady with a Suburban that often parks next to me (which is about twice the length), and quite often there is a minivan on the other side. It amuses me to no end to see people pull up and make the turn thinking my space is empty, only to discover my car is in there and pull up short.


    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Watch out your ECHO doesnt get hit. The drivers think the space is empty, dont watch where they're going, and cant stop when they see the vehicle. :cry: Its best not to pull all the way into the parking space. Just pull in so the rear bumper lines up with the rear bumpers of the cars next to it. :)
  • I've had my 2000 Echo for about 3 years now with no problems. Recently I was in a car accident where I sustained a little over 3500 worth of damage(to the passenger door and quarter panel). My question is... is it even worth it to repair? I've been looking into buying another one anyway. Does anyone know if it's possible to get trade in value on a car in this condition? Other than the body damage, the car drives perfectly.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    The dealer will subtract the full retail cost of repairing the car from its trade-in value, which with your car might get you fairly close to zero net trade value depending on how many miles/what equipment you have on it.

    Many dealers will just tell you they don't want a trade-in in that condition, but may take it off your hands for free as a favor for buying a car from them.

    Can't you get it fixed? Was the person who hit you uninsured?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Thanks for the reply.

    Unfortunately, the person who hit me was uninsured and unlicensed.

    I wonder if I can get anything for it at an auto dismantler...
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Yes, a dismantler might give you up to a couple hundred bucks for a car that is running well.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • I'll keep looking into it. Maybe I'll wait and get a Yari. I don't know though... I really like my Echo...
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    another tank of gas, and again I pulled 40 mpg, entirely in town! 419 miles, 10.5 gallons of gas. I am loving this. If the fuel economy really improves in summer, I am going to wind up doing even better on gas savings than I had hoped I would do. Yippee! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Remove the belt from the power steering pump for even more MPG. Youll be passing Prius's at the gas pump!
  • i finally fixed my car. it was the blower motor. i replaced
    the part. i used my wife's compact case mirror to look under the dashboard. the
    mirror and the light reflected from a flashlight revealed 2 screws far in
    the back holding the plastic cover containing the motor
    in place. thanks for the help. without it i could not
    have removed the motor. the service manual was correct,
    however, i don't know why it did not mention the screws.
    by the way, what is a claw? the service manual and recall
    bulletin mention removing a claw to access the motor. but
    i never found it. the idea of using a mirror came from a
    good friend with mechanic skills
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Great Im glad to hear the problem is solved. That service manual (which I paid like $125 for) is about the poorest Ive seen. I believe the problem stems from the fact that the manual must be written in Japanese and then translated by a Japanese speaking individual without a very good command of American English. Ive seen the same thing at work on a computer controlled assembly machine. It a Yamaha machine with software written by Philips. (Dutch) The service and operating manual were written in Japanese, then translated into Dutch (who added their own input on the software) then translated into English English (as opposed to American English) The result is a three foot high stack of three ring binder Gobblety [non-permissible content removed].
  • the manual is worth the cost. i would not throw it away
    if i had one. it does not, however, provide all the
    answers. i wonder if the dealer works from the same
    poorly translated service manual as we are forced
    to use? there is also a list of recall bulletins found
    in chilton's repair manual online. the one i found
    is accessed, i think, through ebsco host on my local
    public library's website. i found that information
    helpful also. thanks. keep this forum going. its great.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    No Im not throwing it away! Its just that often it isnt clear. If you have any questions pertaining to the manual, just ask. ;)
  • Where is the Echo's PCV valve located?


  • hilmerhilmer Posts: 10
    It is under the plastic cover on the right end of the valve cover.

  • hilmerhilmer Posts: 10
    I am descending a hill at 45 mph, no gas applied, I touch the breaks and the transmission downshifts out of OD. If I'm VERY gentle sometimes I can avoid this.

    Is this normal and is there a way to adjust it for the use of a bit more break before it tries to "Help me"?


  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Use the emergency brake instead.
  • hilmerhilmer Posts: 10
    See this link, and maybe bookmark the site.

    Handy stuff.

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    The parts where he tells you how to clean the MAP sensor, change the airfilter, etc. are good. I DO NOT recommend you add anything like wider wheels, oiled element airfilter, swaybars etc. to your ECHO. Your ECHO is fine like it is.
  • John thanks for the reply on the PCV. It is just what I needed.

    Thanks again

    Larry :D
  • John it took me 11 minutes. (I dropped a nut)

    Thanks again

    Larry :D :)
  • does a book exist called "echo for dummies"?
    how can i change the drive belt?
    how can i remove the power steering belt?

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    First you have to remove the alternator/water pump belt. Note that this belt goes around the crankshaft pulley, the alternator pulley, and the a/c pulley. The ribbed side of the belt drives these things. The waterpump pulleyis driven with the BACK of this belt and is flat with no grooves.
    There are two bolts which are loosened to remove and install the alternator belt. One is fairly obvious and it moves in a curved slot to make the adjustment. There is another one which is part of a bracket to actually hold the alternator on. When you get these both loose, shove the alternator towards the BACK of the car. This will give you enough slack to remove the belt.
    With the alternator belt off you can remove the powersteering belt. It may help to remove the right wheel so you have more room to work/see. Be sure to use a jack stand to hold the car securely if you do this. PLEASE dont work under the car with just a jack holding it up! Make sure you know how to get the car on the jackstand properly! You could get killed. There are also two bolts to loosen to move the PS pump so the belt can be removed. There are four "holes" in the face of the pulley. One of these bolts is accessed through one of these holes. You might have to bump the engine around to do this with the starter. (make sure the engine is in PARK or neutral!) There is another bolt to be loosened which is ABOVE the pulley almost directly above the one you get at through the pulley. IGNORE the bolt to the RIGHT of the pulley as you face it. Once the bolts are loose you can shove the PS pump towards the FRONT of the car to looosen the tension on the belt.
    Put the new ps pump belt on first. Tighten the two bolts sort of tight but not all the way. Then move the ps pump to the BACK of the car to tighten it. Then fully tighten the two bolts. The same idea works to get the new alternator/water pump belt on. You want the belts fairly tight. Check the tightness of the belts after about an hour of use. They may need tightening.
    Good Luck and BE CAREFULL if you work without the right front tire on. It might be possible to put the car up on ramps if you dont want to remove the tire. If you do make good and sure it is steady up on the ramps!
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