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Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier



  • tobygtobyg Posts: 1
    Has anyone done the 48 month Driver Option plan? I'm skeptical, can anyone tell me their experience with this plan? Pros and cons? Potential new VW owner here. Thanks.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    There's a lot of interest in diesel vehicles these days and the Passat TDI has hit the streets. We have a VW Passat TDI discussion that provides a dedicated place to discuss the TDI apart from the gas-engine Passats.

    Check it out ... owning a TDI is not a requirement for admission, interest in the subject will get you in the door. ;)
  • alyssazmomalyssazmom Posts: 142
    The car is a 2003, purchased in May 2003...

    It's not new car smell as that doesn't bother me in the least. When we get the Passat back in 8 weeks I'm going to take it to a detail shop and see if they can do anything...or to VW...and let it sit in my garage with the windows down.

    It'll be so strange to go from Sienna to Passat!

    Thanks again,

  • bjbird2bjbird2 Posts: 647
    Passat is a driver's vehicle. Sienna is a Mom-mobile.
    Just my opinion, maybe not politically correct.
  • alyssazmomalyssazmom Posts: 142
    You are right, the Passat is a driver's vehicle and the Sienna is a Mom-mobile and that is what they are intended to be. My Sienna has been perfect for the two kids and myself and that is exactly how it should be.

    My cousin bought a Passat wagon 4 months ago and loves it! She has just one toddler so space isn't *too* much of an issue for her. But she just loves her Passat wagon!

    My Passat sedan was a blast to drive, a lot of fun and my father-in-law has loved driving it. I'm sure I'll get comfortable quickly in my Passat again, minus the freakin' smell!

  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Can someone please confirm this is correct......What is the proper tire pressure for a Passat with 15" tires. My door jam says front-35psi and rear-44psi. 44psi sounds really high. When I checked my tires after taking delivery Sat, all tires were at 30 psi. Obviously, someone forgot to check the pressure.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I'm going to guess that you have an '04 model. Prior to '04 (I have an '03 wagon, 1.8T, Tip, GLS with OEM 195/65-15 Michelin MXV4 tires on the OEM "Wellington" alloy wheels), the pressures read considerably lower and were posted on the gas flap.

    Mine reads:

    <100 mph: 28 F / 28 R at half load; 30 F / 39 R Full Load

    >100 mph: 30 F / 28 R at half load; 33 F / 42 R Full Load.

    I've read (but haven't independently confirmed) that the Federal Gov't changed the regulations and now requires auto manufacturers to post only one tire pressure (the highest one, I guess) in the face of the Ford Explorer/Firestone fiasco.

    So, what at what pressure do I keep my tires?? 32 or 33 PSI all around! But I never get to go over 100 mph, either!
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Thanks for the feedback!!

    That's interesting! Yes, I do have a 2004.5 with Continental Tires. The same size as yours: 195/65-15. I looked on the gas door, but my tire info is on the drivers door jam. It clearly states 35psi for front tires and 44psi for rears. 44psi sounds like the MAX psi for the tires. If the new regulations you state are correct, then VW policy needs updating.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Is is necessary to idle after driving the 1.8t engine to allow the turbo to cool?
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    My 03 Passat GL 1.8T is at 14,000 miles now, and I'm starting to hear this very subtle "noise" that I've never noticed before. Is it a problem, and if so, what? I'll try to describe it.

    It happens only in one situation: (a) the car has been parked and turned off for a while, (b) Okay, I start, pull out of the parking spot, come to a full stop, and put it into Drive. (c)I give it some gas and it starts moving forward. It's then that I hear the noise. I don't know whether to call it a "crunch" sort of noise or what, but it's not loud at all- very subtle and brief. Sometimes I've wondered if I drove over a small bump or something. I think once I felt some slight kick in the gas pedal, but I haven't been able to re-produce that.
    So that's all. It doesn't happen any time later in the drive, even after I've been stopped at a stoplight. It doesn't even happen if I put it in park and then start driving again (without turning off the engine). Only after it's been parked and turned off for a while.

    So, experts: any ideas what this is? How significant is it? What should be done?
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    ...but I doubt you felt it in the gas pedal as your car (as is mine) DBW or Drive by Wire. There is no physical connection between the pedal and the engine. I'm at about the same miles as you are, and I've not heard or felt anything like this. Maybe others will pipe in with some hints.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    Thanks altair - you're right, there's no feeling of it in the pedal. And it's a very soft sound, you almost have to listen for it. But it's reproducible every time. Don't know whether to describe it as a click or clack (or mild crunch) but it's right after you step on the accelerator, going forward, after it's been parked. Doesn't happen again for the entire drive, even when you stop at a sign. It's so small it wouldn't bother me except that it didn't happen for the first 14K miles and only just started.
    Any clues or suggestions, anyone? (I will be taking it in for the 15K oil-lube-filter soon, so if it continues I'll ask the dealer. But the more I can learn beforehand, the better.)
  • taft4taft4 Posts: 57
    04 Passat GLX V6 sedan has led me to these conclusions. It is probably the best driving car I have ever owned, and we have owned 46 of them since we first entered the car market. It is quiet, smooth, and fun to drive. We have owned a quieter and smoother car (97 Lincoln Towncar) but it was cumbersome to drive and bulky to park.

    On the other hand this is the first new car we have owned in over 30 years that is requiring so many trips to the dealer for repairs. The OnStar did not work when we picked it up, next we discovered that the AM band on the radio is lousy and cannot be fixed. ("It's a trait of the car," I was told). Next we soon found that sometimes as we slow to a stop the AT emits a bang and a large thumpy jerky feeling, and from I have read here and elswhere that too is going to be a trait that they cannot fix. And just yesterday the air conditioner fan started screaming. I am retired so it is no sweat to take the car back to the local dealer as I will be doing again, but I think about the people who work and have to take time off to get their vehicle repaired, and I can understand their anger.

    Crazy as it may seem I still like the car but I have to wonder how VW can afford to keep fixing most of what they manufacture and also survive the bad publicity.

    I note that the new J.D. Powers Reliability Survey of 3 year old cars (2001 models) places VW 33rd out of 37.
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Posts: 5,343
    . . .this sound should ONLY be of concern if you "don't hear it" any more. It has probably been there from the beginning, day one, first time you started it -- seriously.

    Now, since your description was fairly broad and therefore possibly ambiguous, I will qualify your "noise" reporting by saying you should certainly have this looked into if your concern grows or does not in anyway subside after I give you the explanation.

    BTW, with some 7,200 messages here on this one town-hall alone you should know that this has been discussed numerous times on the VW and Audi town-halls and every time I see such a query, I do attempt to give the same answer -- and, may I suggest that it is pretty easy to search (using edmund's) search tool.

    OK here goes:

    The sound you are hearing is from the ABS, ABS+brake assist and/or ESP "hardware" that is under the hood of your car. When the car is turned on, several things happen that "initialize" the ABS electronics, hydraulics and associated hardware. The noise you hear, as I recall, does not happen until the car "moves" (and I don't think it matters if it moves forwards or backwards) it does not matter if the car is auto or manual, gas or diesel -- it must however, have ABS -- and I believe it is the Bosch ABS "pump" initialization sound that you hear, when the car moves after it is started.

    In other words, you can start the car and NOT move for a minute or two and the sound doesn't happen -- but the moment you back the car out of the garage or pull it forward out of the parking space, a combination hum/crunch/moan/"raspberry"(almost a flatulent thripppppp/hmmmmmm) followed by a sound something like a tightly coiled spring coming unwound rapidly. It happens, or at least I notice it happening after the car has been parked for a time. It is NOT temperature related, although I seem to hear it more clearly in the winter. I also must note that I only hear it if I have the radio OFF when I start the car and I am alone in the car (and therefore not distracted or in conversation).

    This sound -- please if you are still concerned, check it out -- just goes with the technology.

    I hope this helps.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    Dear Markcincinnati,
    You've nailed it. It did occur to me that it's so soft it could have been going on since Day 1 without my noticing it until now. And you're right, it happens when I first move the car, whether forward or backward. And yes, the car does have ABS/ESP. So... "problem" solved. Thanks!
  • dfmarcusdfmarcus Posts: 12
    "Next we soon found that sometimes as we slow to a stop the AT emits a bang and a large thumpy jerky feeling, and from I have read here and elswhere that too is going to be a trait that they cannot fix. "

    I had this problem on my 2004 GLX 4-motion. It was fixed 2 weeks ago. Don't let them tell you this is normal.
  • frostmanfrostman Posts: 1
    It's time for my Passat to have a 40,000 mile serivice and I want to find the bext place to take it to in San Francisco Bay Area. Any suggestions please? I would prefer the Peninsula area.

  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    All incentives are back from VW. $1,000 owner loyalty as well as $2,000 manufacturer to dealer rebates.
  • carmanecarmane Posts: 6
    2002 GLX 4 motion Problem 1: My driver's side power window groans when it goes up and down. Sometimes when it's doing an auto-up, it hits the top and goes right back down. Problem 2: When I'm adjusting my driver's side rear view mirror with the round adjustor (and it's set to "L"), the driver's side mirror moves but so does the passenger side mirror.

    Dealer's diagnosis: the problems are related and he needs to replace one mechanism. I'm under warranty so that's fine with me.

    Has anyone had this problem? Does the diagnosis sound right?

    Love the car and still think it's the best drive for the money. However, it's been in the shop far too many times in the < 3 years I've had it (leaky rack, broken rear washer nozzle, dead back speaker, etc.) I'm wary of hanging onto it beyond the warranty so will be weighing a comprehensive extended vs. a new car.
  • taft4taft4 Posts: 57

    I appreciate your advice about the problem with the AT, and that it is fixable. When I take my car in for service in the next 30 days I will demand that they eliminate that same problem in my transmission.
  • maruskamaruska Posts: 9
    This Saturday, I will be purchasing the GLS VW Passat at a local New Jersey dealer. Even though, I am excited to get the car (this will be my first brand new car), I am a little nervous after reading all these messages regarding the VW. I've been reading the prices that some of you have paid for the 2004 Passat and I am a little confused regarding MSRP versus invoice, etc. The dealer that I am buying from, gave me these prices (not including taxes and title and registration): Velour or leatherette at $21,900; leatherette with cold package (heated seats) at $22,300; leather with cold package at $23,400; leather with wood and cold package at $23,835. My question is: are these prices reasonable or can I haggle a little lower? Are these below or above invoice? These have been the lowest prices quotes that I've gotten since March 2004 when I started checking the prices on the 2004 Passat. Owners or experts on the subject advise. Desperately need some pointers. Thanks.
  • holenone79holenone79 Posts: 20
    How long have you been shopping? Maybe the dealer knows you are not in any rush to buy and thus are not getting their attention or the best price.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Those prices seem very competitive. As I have stated in previous posts, I purchased (leased) a 2004 Passat GLS Automatic 2 weeks ago and the price quote I received was $21,900. This is $1,000 below invoice. It looks like you got the same quote. My price was with $2,000 manuf to dealer cash back and $1,000 owner loyalty.
  • holenone79holenone79 Posts: 20
    you should be able to be the car for $200 over invoice----then subtract any rebates and incentives!! now redo the math and see what you come up with.
  • maruskamaruska Posts: 9
    I have been shopping since March 2004 and this is a new dealer that I sent an e-mail. Compared to the other dealers, his prices are much lower for 2004 GLS VW Passat. I am really interested in the car with leather/cold pkge and wood. Do you think I can get him to lower it a little more? Do you own the Passat? If so, has it been reliable? I am reading all these messages and I kind of get nervous.
  • maruskamaruska Posts: 9
    To the 2004 GLS VW Passat owners out there: could you tell me of your maintenance experiences on this car (like tune-ups, brake pads, brake shoes, suspension alignmnet, wheel balancing, filters, lubrication, etc, etc.
    I've been told that the parts on this car (once the warranty expires) are expensive. How expensive are they?
  • holenone79holenone79 Posts: 20
    Do the math as I suggest, and make the dealer a firm offer. If they dont accept, walk out and go to another dealer. I have a 2002 1.8 5-speed. I really enjoy the car. Its comfortable, quiet, smooth, and powerful for a 1.8, especially with the 5-speed.

    Is it as reliable as the hondas and toyotas I have owned?---no. I have 29000 miles on it. In the 27 months I have owned it, I have had to do the following:

    one left daylight running light burned out
    one right daylight running light burned out
    the dash had some bubbling in it and was replaced
    front brake rotors warped
    oll leak
    minor rattles in the dash and right pillar.

    Nothing that has ever stranded me on the side of the road. I bring the car in for scheduled service every 5000 miles. The service has been outstanding. They really go out of their way to exceed my expectations. Far better service than any toyota or honda dealer. However this might just be the luck of the draw where you live. I am leasing the car on a 48 month 60000 mile term. I think its a great four year car. Beyond that and out of warranty, I might be a little nervous. I have this feeling that it will not age as gracefully as the better Japenese imports. Would I lease one again--absolutely, especially if there are nice fat incentives available at that time.

    I should also add that all of the above work was done under warranty.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    I've been using Valvoline 5W-40 synth oil in my Passat with no trouble. It's time for an oil change and I could go get some. But I did notice that now Mobil 1 has added this weight to its synthetic lineup. My question is: Mobil 1 calls their stuff "Truck and SUV SAE 5W-40 Synthetic oil" for "Gasoline and Diesel Fuel Engines". It provides "outstanding protection for gasoline powered trucks and SUVs" and "hard-working diesel powered pickup trucks and SUVs."

    This does not sound like my 1.8T Passat. Is this Mobil 1 oil really only for trucks and SUVs - is it in some way different from the Valvoline 5W 40, making it less suitable for my comparatively litte Passat? Should I stick with the Valvoline? Or is this Truck/SUV stuff just market "positioning", and the Mobil would work fine in the Passat?

  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I believe that Mobil 1 SUV is simply repackaged Mobil Delvac. But let's look at what the specs require:

    If I recall correctly, my owner's manual states that the oil must meet the following specs either singly or in combination: the current API spec, an ACEA spec, and 5w-40. I'm giving serious thought to using it, after I deplete my Valvoline stock. When I do, I'll check out Bob's oil site for more info and make a final decision. Probably price and availability will dictate my decision.
  • cadrewcadrew Posts: 10
    I just got a 2004 Passat GLS with auto. Typically, what is the break in period? Would I be ok to make it 500 miles? I have driven the car on the freeway, but never over 65, and try to drive 60 if I can. I was only on the freeway for a bit to drive it home. Aside from keeping the RPMs low, what else is typical during the break in period?
    As far as I knew, the typical break in period was 1000 miles, and that you should keep the MPH under 55 if you can. Anyone have any more info?

    p.s. for those shopping around for one now - I think you can get a GLS with auto for around 21k-22k, but basically, the lower the price, the higher the APR will be on the loan. I got mine for around 21.7k at 1.9% for 5 years with tier 1 credit.
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