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Nissan Maxima



  • dklaneckydklanecky Posts: 559
    is something I don't know any longer. The language Edmunds showes appears to mean choice #2 from the way I'm reading it.

    (Back when I bought my 00 SE in Sept 1999, it was calculated as 3.85% of the MSRP).

    You can certainly use the holdback in your dealings but be cautious, most of that holdback money is probably "used up" at this point in time.

    The cars (03 Maxima's) sitting on the lots now have been there for about 4 months minimum (since production ceased on the 03's).
  • lilelvislilelvis Posts: 82
    Kp40m -
    I was cross shopping both the GLE and EX-V6(haven't bought either yet). Here is what I liked/disliked:
    Accord -
    Liked the interior, dual climate, comfortable seats (subj). Disliked the exterior(subj) and the limited color choices (i.e. can only get black leather w/ silver exterior).
    Maxima -
    It's bigger, has memory seats, better color choices, heated mirrors, but no dual climate, and I don't think the interior is quite as nice (subj). At the time, it was also $2K more.

    Really, I was just test driving the Honda because I thought I should at least compare it before I bought the maxima. After test driving both, it made the choice more difficult because I really liked the honda - not that I disliked the max - i just wanted to be "wowed" by a car that I'm going to drop 25K for. As much as I liked the max, it was hard to justify paying 2K more for a car i liked about the same (although my heart was with the max).

    For my wife and I, we aren't going to get the honda because there was not a color combo we liked (not a big deal to a lot of people). Now, they are probably less than a thousand bucks apart. You just need to test drive both, and go with the one you like, with the amenities you like. The good news is you can't go wrong.

    Because we couldn't decide, I went and test drove a TL and liked it but will wait until the 04s come out if I decide on that. I am also going to test a I35. Even though it is just a dressed up GLE, I'm hoping there will be something in it that makes the decision easy (plus they are down to around 27 or 28). Good luck - I feel your pain.
  • jeff186jeff186 Posts: 95
    That's the current deal on the remaining '03 Maxs, according to dealers in my area. I'm pretty sure that is a national program. If you want one, now's the time to jump imo. Carsdirect has a lower purchase price that what dealers are offering in my area, though the dealer agreed to match carsdirect's price on my last Nissan purchase, so here's hoping. Good luck all.
  • socal_racefan: Sorry to hear about your warped brake rotors. I have a 97 SE with 149k miles and get service (oil, plugs, cooling, etc.) at either of 2 nearby Nissan Dealers. Whenever I know that the service department will be taking off one or more wheels, I check the torque on the lugs as soon as I get the car home. At my last oil change, I agreed to have a "free" inspection and sure enough they removed and reinstalled front and rear wheels to check the brakes. When I got home, I found the torque on the lugs varied from well over 100 ft-lbs to 60 ft-lbs. I then retightened to the correct amount. I have had this (incorrect torque) experience on other car brands and other dealers over the years. Apparently, some techs (mechanics) and their service managers just don't care to do the correct job - or is there an ulterior motive?
  • kennyg5kennyg5 Posts: 360
    With the huge discounts Nissan is offering on the remaining 03 Max, I think it is no brainer as to which car one should choose. But if you want better mpg, go with Accord since it is more fuel efficient, otherwise pick the Max, even though it may cost slightly more than the Accord(no more than $1k at current price for similar equipments). No matter what your choice is, you cannot go wrong with either one. Just my two cents.
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    Well, I just bought an '03 Maxima SE. Silver with grey interior (how bland huh?). Oh well, I like the car very much. It had 9 miles on it and still had the peel off sheets of plastic on it this morning when I test drove it. The only options I got were the sunroof, rear spoiler and floor mats. I really really like this car though.

    Oh, I got almost $4,000 off MSRP and 1.9% financing for 5 years. What a deal!!!
  • kp40mkp40m Posts: 19
    Just bought a Silver GLE, everything but Nav and spoiler for 24,800 (MSRP of 30,022). $6K under would be great, but I'm satisfied and got Kelley Blue Book for my trade (POS 98 Taurus). Less then a 100 miles on it and enjoying the ride.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I test drove the 03 Accord EX V6 about three months ago. The MSRP was about $ 26K. You get a lot of standard equipment for the money, including power sunroof, leather interior, heated seats, 6 airbags, 6 CD in-dash changer, power front seats (both sides). The car comes with excellent Michelin MXV V-rated tires, lot better than anything they put on Maxima (especially the lousy Bridgestone Potenza tires on the SE model). Fog lights are a dealer installed accessory. The engine is a 3.0 liter V6 and puts out 240 HP and is very quiet and refined. It still uses a timing belt, but the replacement interval is 105K. The Accord is designed to run on regular unleaded, while Nissan recommends premium in the Max. Fuel economy in the Honda may be better - it is listed as 30 MPG highway. Honda will also have better resale value than Maxima. Do not expect much discount on this car, but it is already priced considerably lower than a Maxima with the same equipment.
  • jeff186jeff186 Posts: 95
    Well, the Max and Accord are both solid, reliable vehicles. The Accord also has the advantage of a 5-speed auto. But the Accord is more a "plain jane" vehicle that directly competes against the Altima, imo. The Max is in that nebulous "entry luxury" class of more upscale cars. I personally love the standard HID headlights. And a few miles plus or less per gallon or regular versus premium fuel is of no importance to me.
  • kp40mkp40m Posts: 19
    I just bought a 93 GLE. The manual says to use at least 87 octane as long as the engine doesn't knock. The sales manager at the Nissan uses 87 octane in his 2002 (or 2003) Max and puts in a tank of 91 about every ten tanks. My dad has a 2001 Infiniti I30 and uses 87 octane w/o issues. I will use 91 at least until my break-in (1200 miles) but was curious as to any one else's experiences. I know 91 will perform the best, but has anyone found a brand/octane that gives the lowest cost per mile while avoiding knocking?
  • dklaneckydklanecky Posts: 559
    This issue has been debated numerous times on this board (over the last 6994 messages). It seems that some people want to spend the least amount on their Maxima's on a daily basis and use regular.

    Others recognize that the incremental cost of putting Premium (which the manufacturer recommends) is for most of us, inconsequential.

    Your sales manager most likely doesn't own his Maxima, he's driving one for free and will most likely use the cheaper route. Your dad's experience on the other hand is significant. How many miles does he have and what's his experience with repairs been so far?

    I have a 95GLE with 192,xxx miles on it and a 00 SE with 124,xxx miles on it. Both get Amoco premium grade all the time. My repairs on the 95 have been nothing but normal maintenance and the same with the 00. I personally want all the power that the VQ can deliver, when I want it and that means Premium for me.

    There is no definitive answer for everyone. Let your own needs and want be your guide.
  • georged98georged98 Posts: 34
    I have tried both Premium and regular unleaded gasoline in my 2002 GLE. I could not tell any difference no matter how much I tried to pay attention when I ran the different grades of gasoline. I ran several tank fulls with each grade and again I could not tell any difference. The owners manual states that you can use regular unleaded but for better performance to use Premium. This again is an neverending question: if the owners manual states that you can use regular and you don't notice any or little difference, why pay and burn premium when it's really not needed.
  • bobfeldbobfeld Posts: 33
    i too compared both the auto "pecking order" the max is considered above the accord...the max is most oten comparred to the audi a4 and acura 3.2 while the accord is compared to the altima..the max has a lot more "cache" than the accord...tell ur friends and family ur thinking about buying each..their response to the max will be much more positive..accord is considered "boring" the max is considered "cool"..
  • bobfeldbobfeld Posts: 33
    if it doesnt "ping"on regular...putting premium in is throwing ur money away
  • bobfeldbobfeld Posts: 33
    the current NATIONAL NISSAN rebate is $1500 plus 0.9% fiancing for up to 36 months
  • blh7068blh7068 Posts: 375
    I found on my 02 SE that mileage went down using premium...but performance increased. So I guess it depends what you are looking for.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    This debate is like an old penny that keeps popooing up. I'm not quite the road warrior dklanecky is, but I have 136,xxx on my 1995 SE 5-speed. The only time it's seen regular gas is twice on the highway when the premium pumps were not working and I was running on fumes. In both cases, I didn't notice any pinging or significant reduction in acceleration, but I did get 1-2 miles per gallon less than the prior and following tankfuls, also on the highway.

    Here is the way I look at it: In 8+ years and 136k+ miles, I've burned through a total of 5,670 gallons of premium gas. Assuming I would have saved an average of 10-15 cents per gallon for regular, I theoretically would have saved $567 to $850 total. If my gas milage dropped by even 1 mpg, I would have eaten up $350+ of those savings in extra gas. Losing 1.5-2.0 mpg and the savings are wiped out.

    If the possibility of saving $60-$100 a year in gas on a $25,000+ car is worth using regular to you, go for it. It's not to me.

    P.S. According to a friend with a M3 and former E55, by the time you "hear" a ping in today's well sound insulated and high engine technology cars, you already put the engine at risk for slight damage. These are not your father's cast iron Oldsmobiles. My friend has a masters in mechanical engineering and material science, so I tend to listen to his advice regarding cars.

    P.P.S. As an alternative for saving money, jump your collision deductable up to $1,000. Or drop it altogether. You'll save a lot more than by using regular gas and be a safer, more careful driver in the process.
  • brymilbrymil Posts: 18
    Has anyone changed their Maxima's cabin air filter on their own? If so, was it difficult? I own an '02 SE and have instructions but sometimes they are not a good indication as to how difficult the task is.

    Also curious if anyone has time saving tips on changing the oil and filter on the 2002.
  • norbert444norbert444 Posts: 195
    yes, it's an old penny ... here is my input:
    I get about 10% better mileage on premium (91 octane at Costco) vs regular (87 octane at Costco). Therefore I always look at the price and if the difference is less than 10%, buy premium -- and vice versa.

    Take this from an old hand in petroleum refining: Pinging is no good for your engine (occasional engine ping during hard acceleration or steep hill is OK but no more than that). However, I am told that the Maxima engine can handle ANY gas without pinging since it has an automatic advance adjustment. My Max engine has proven it to me. There has been no pinging ever on my 00 GLE no matter what gas I bought all over the West (only 28K miles so far, though).

    Therefore it comes down to pure economics: Buying gas that is more expensive than you need to avoid pinging is no good for your wallet in general. For a Maxima then, it means that the gas that gives you the best mileage for your dollar is the gas to buy.
  • brymilbrymil Posts: 18
    Thanks Dave for the instructions. Any idea how long it takes?

    As for premium vs. regular, I have run my '02 Maxima on regular unleaded for 20k miles now and have not experienced any knocking or pinging.
  • victord1victord1 Posts: 94
    I've got my '03 SE since January, and enjoyed driving it since. The only complaint I have so far is with the paint job. It seems like the paint are either too soft or too thin. The car is like a magnet for small scratches. Fortunately most of those scratches are superficial and don't go through the clear coat layer. There is one spot, however, where a thumb-size paint is gouged out. Does anybody else have same problems? Any worthwhile solution to make the paint more regular waxing? And does anybody know how to get the color code for the touch paint? I went to the dealer for help, but the paint that they gave me looked a shade lighter than the one on the car. Thanks.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The code for your car's paint should be on the door sticker(at least it is on my 98 SE). There is no way to magically protect your paint against scratches. I have been using Zip car wash for years and it adds just enough wax to keep the paint in top condition. Of course, I wash my car every week with a spoonful of Zip car wash in a bucket of water and this has kept the finish in showroom condition for 5 years in hot and humid central Florida. I have used the Zip car wash on other vehicles as well and results are incredible. No paint fade whatsoever after 8 years on my 95 Nissan truck. The secret here is applying the product regularly, like once a week. The good news is that you never have to wax your car again if you keep using this product regularly. Most car waxes contain abrasives, so frequent waxing can even actually your clearcoat. Zip car wash is non-abrasive and also acts as a detergent to better clean the car finish.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I'd try another dealer. I went to my dealer and they just pulled up the right paint color from a book in the parts dept and it was an exact match. They should have your color or at least be able to order it.
  • vanbo57vanbo57 Posts: 46
    Hello all. I have an '01 SE and just had the front rotors resurfaced at 22,000 miles today. This was done no charge as there is a TSB on the rotor "pre-mature run out". I think is is number 00088a. Shouldn't happen but what bugs me more is that I got a call from service telling me that there is aprox. 20 to 30% wear remaining on my REAR PADS! Whats the deal with that at 22,000 miles? I've never heard of rear pads going before the fronts - service said that I have 60% remaining on the fronts. Service said that this is a Maxima trait. I didn't have the work done as I can get it done cheaper at the Midas around the corner from where I live and the car stops fine, although the petal isn't as high as it was in the past. Stamford Nissan wanted $85. One of the things I liked best about this car in the beginning was the brakes however, the parts seem cheap for the long haul. Does anyone find what I have described above as odd?
    Thanks for your feed back.
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    Make sure you shake that touch up paint very well before using it. Shake it until your arm feels like it's going to fall off. Then shake it for 3 more minutes and it should be ready to use.
  • victord1victord1 Posts: 94
    Thanks a lot for the input everybody. I did looked at the door sticker, but didn't find anything about the car color and the color code. I'll look again once it stops raining. The color of the car is sheer silver, and the dealer said that was the only silver color paint they had so it would be impossible to have a mismatch.
    I also find it really odd that the paint was scratched off without any dent to signify that there was an impact. My 15 years old integra has dents all over the body, but no paint scratches.
    Oh, well. Thanks again.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Posts: 559
    Change dealers!

    There's at least two (and I think three) shades of silver. Try Courtesy Nissan online for an accurate rendition of the paint colors.

    Here's a link that well show you part numbers so you can show up your dealer.

    he probably just doesn't have your color in stock and figures you won't know the difference. Some times these dealers are Nissan's own worst enemy!
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    That does seem very strange that the rear brakes are wearing out faster than the fronts. I have a 95SE 5-speed and didn't need to replace the fronts until 90,000 miles and the rears until 105,000 miles. Never needed the rotors resurfaced. I do a fair amount of highway driving, but I don't "engine brake" using the clutch.

    What the hell did Nissan do between 1995 and 2001 to the brake design?? They seem to have gone form some of the best in the business to needing to issue TSB's and perform warranty repairs. Really makes me wonder if the new 2004 US made Maxima will only be a shadow of it's former build quality.
  • bobfeldbobfeld Posts: 33
    where did you find the instructions for the microfilter? is there a web-site for all repairs?THANKS
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