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Nissan Maxima



  • kennyg5kennyg5 Posts: 360
    Kyle, I presume you are a knicks fan and lives in NYC. Why do you want to buy an 03 Max knowing that the HIDs are favorite targets of [non-permissible content removed] thieves? One consolation, Nissan is giving 02 and 03 Max owners in New York and New Jersey free HIDs fixes -- data dotting the HIDs and adding stronger metal bracket -- which presumably will deter theft.
  • kenny... good job outta ya! you were right on both accounts.. from NYC and a Knicks fan... actually, i have 2000 maxima and since my gf's going thru issues with her 01 jetta, she's thinking about getting a 03 maxima.. she lives in CT so the HID's are not an issue.. even if the car was for me, it wouldnt be an issue cause i have a garage..

    to tell u the truth, i think one of the reasons why i want her to get the 03 maxima (i might get one myself in a couple of years when they come off of lease) are the HID's.. but i just can't see myself paying $1500 to install them on my 2K GLE
  • alright, this has probably been beaten to death..but my 2k maxima has 41k miles on it, exactly 3 years old. I've had my rotors resurfaced about 20,000 miles and now at 41,000 miles, they are terribly warped. Here's the kicker, my brake pads are 75% left in the back and about 50% in the front.. 35,000 of 41,000 miles are on literally on highways from NY to CT.. there is no way the rotors should have warped by now..

    do you think i have a case with the nissan service dept (getting the work done on warranty, or getting new rotors) given how this is the second time it has happened (i know about the tsb), and how little the brakes are used.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    I think you have a case with Nissan corporate. Apparantly, they redesigned the brakes from the 4th generation Maxima. I have a 1995 with 147,000 miles and I have never had to have the rotors resurfaced even once.

    If I were you, I'd go through the dealer to get to the Nissan represntative and push hard to get a full set of new rotors free (under warranty). And if they don't give you any satisfaction, I might go so far as to looking into some sort of class action. It seems like I've read a lot of posts such as yours that suggest Nissan took a big step backwards in the engineering of the 2000+ Maximas.

    Based upon my fear that the Maxima has gone downhill in terms of build quality and reliability since the 4th generation, I would consider the new TL 6-speed as a possible FWD replacement, when the time comes. I would never have said this, based upon my superb experience with my 1995 SE, but your story resonates. Feel free to print this post and show it to your dealer, if it helps to make your point.
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    the rate on maximas is not an incentive rate, therefore, your rate will be determined by the lending institution based on your credit. if the dealer has pulled your credit bureau, then you got a better rate then i have seen in months. if they haven't, then take that rate with a grain of salt, and have them pull your credit.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Posts: 398
    I've pretty much resigned to the fact that I need my rotors resurfaced (or new rotors) every 10-15K miles. My car is 2001 GLE. Oh, and same with me - little pad wear, generally.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    It sounds to me like you guys should have a look at "The Tire Rack" aftermarket brake rotors. $210 to $245 for non-Nissan rotors may fix this problem. If you're really into good brakes, for the small sum of $2495 they will sell you Brembo disks and calipers that are larger than stock. All this front only, of course. I don't like messing with the rears as most kits don't have the "e" brake capability. Also, the rears only provide 5-10% of the braking for the car, so they rarely cause problems.
  • I am about ready to buy a an 04 SE but the car at the dealer has over 207 miles on it already. This seems high to me for a new car, should I be concerned with all the test driving this car has withstood?
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    207 is high but not ridiculously so. If I liked the car then I'd buy it with 200 miles. But that's about my acceptance limit - any more and I'd look at a different car.
  • if you're not getting a discount on the car with 207 miles, whynot get a different one?

    i would never let anyone sell me a car that's "used" for the same price as one that's new.. ~8 to 12 miles on the odo. they basically used that car to let others test drive (in my opinion, that's used) on your dime...

    but that's just me and i'm real picky about things like that
  • n7ein7ei Posts: 1
    My new maxima 2004 3.5 SE had an annoying vibration at about 100 MPH. The dealer was no help and would not get into the car and drive at this speed to diagnose the problem.

    I went to a Goodyear dealer equipped with the latest tire balancing equipment, the Hunter GPS 9700 vibration control system with road force measurement balancer.

    This machine simulates actual road conditions and checks the wheel rim for conformance to specs and the tire as well.

    I had allready taken the wheels to another tire shop not equipped with the latest equipment and had the wheels balanced.

    It turned about that the tires could not be mated to the rims as indicated by the the test results.

    Goodyear will replace the offending tire based on the test results at no charge where the tread life is less than 25% worn.

    To get the replacement tire you must go to a Goodyear dealer and have the tire tested on the proper equipment.

    I had called Nissan Customer Service representative at the head office. She promptly consulted their technical experts and came back with an in accurate and incomplete answer. Like don't drive so fast.

    For further info on tire balancing go to Hunter's web site or put in your search wheel balance.

    Vibration can be caused by wheel and or tire problems or a combination of both.Experience wheel balance personnel can detect tire problems by eye and feel but now days you cannot count on getting an experienced tech to work on your car.
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    the difference is that the warranty starts at whatever mileage, up to 500, the vehicle has at delivery. you lose NOTHING by having 200 miles on a new car, so why should you get something for nothing?
  • lumbarlumbar Posts: 421
    It strikes me that the person who is able to sell a car as "new" that has 200+ miles on it is really the one getting something for nothing--and that something could well be use of the car for test drives and other jaunts by a series of drivers (assuming the miles weren't part of transporting the vehicle with the prospective buyer's knowledge). The very reason many people buy new is because they want to know the treatment the car has received from Mile 1, or as close to it as reasonably possible.
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    "or as close to it as reasonably possible."

    as a dealer, sometimes a car gets miles put on it...thats life. the difference is that the warranty, lease, and EVERYTHING about the car, starts at the miles that are on the car at delivery. thats what a warranty is for. if someone test drove the car, and the kid in the backseat tore the fabric, then its fixed AT NO COST TO THE BUYER.
  • you're saying the warranty starts when the car is taken delivery? so if i pick up the car at 200 miles so i get warranty till 36,200?

    it's not even the point..

    "you lose NOTHING by having 200 miles" - i certainly don't have anything to gain if i paid full price if someone drove my car for 200's not my goal to make money for dealerships regardless what they tell me... the point is, if the 200 miles were from test drives, it's been used.. if i choose to buy it after 200 miles, then it's my choice.. if it's from transportation, that's a diff story.. but for you to tell me 10 people have driven my car and i'm buying it at full price as a NEW car, you're out of your mind.
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    but to buy THAT car is YOUR choice. if you dont like it, buy another...but in many cases, its the only one with a certain widget that a buyer wants, or has the right interior color.

    you cant honestly tell me that, if it was the only car that fit EXACTLY what you wanted, you would complain over 200 miles.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Generally if a new car has 200 or more miles on it, it has been test driven quite a few times or perhaps driven from another dealership as part of dealer car trade. Recently I was passed on I-95 by a Nissan Altima that appeared to be a new vehicle in transit to another delaer (dealer's tag, car appeared brand new). The guy was doing almost 100 MPH in this car. Great way to break in a new vehicle! Since that day I do not feel like ever buying a new vehicle that has been driven from another dealership a considerable distance.
    You should be concerned with buying manual transmission new cars with some miles on them. A person who does not know how to drive a manual transmission car may incur more wear and tear on the clutch during a 10 mile test drive than a normal driver in several thousand miles, grind the gears, or worse.

    So bottom line, you are taking some risk when buying a new car with several hundred miles on it.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    Sorry bowke, I have to agree with p100, kyleknicks, lumbar and others who would advise against getting a "new" car with 200+ miles on the odometer. That's easily 20+ test drives of 8-10 miles a pop. You want to sell me a "demo", fine, but that's not a new car in my book.

    And p100 makes another good point. Unless you get a car with 2-10 "delivery" miles on the odometer, you can never be sure that abuse did not occur during the break in period. This could lead to poorer gas mileage, shorter clutch life, etc. for which the warranty does not apply. When I bought a Honda S2000, I made absolutely sure that it had no test drive miles on it. The last thing I wanted was some 17 year old burning about 20% off the life of the clutch or missing shifts for even 5 miles, let alone 200. I might be less picky with an automatic Maxima, but not much so. Hell, even I was encouraged to "let it rip" by salespeople when I've test driven cars.

    It behoves dealerships to specifically set aside their demonstrators and leave the "new" cars alone.
  • but you see, for dealers, it's all about making a dollar... if they could use your car (before you bought it) to give free test drives and sell more cars, and not cost them a dime, they'll do it.. oh wait, who wouldnt? least be honest about it and not try to sell it as brand spanking new car with no wear and tear whatsoever.. like i said, if you're the one agreed to getting a car from a diff dealer and they'll put miles just transporting it, well.. that's a diff story.. how it gets transported, it's your decision.

    bowke are you a car dealer?
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    you are one of the only ones who doesnt know it! ;-)

    the problem also, is that many people want to test drive THE EXACT CAR they want. in some cases, a deal is not struck, and the car sits. as a dealer, we cant help that.
  • I am cosidering a purchase of a 2000 used vehicle (automatic). Any suggestions?

    More specifically: Is there anybody who thinks that sports suspension on SE is rougher than they would like for their personal comfort? If somebody likes sports s better, your feedback is too appriciated.
    If somebody can explain what exactly is sports suspension and why some people may like better, please do.
  • pernaperna Posts: 533
    I did test drive a GLE, and maybe I'm just deluding myself but I didn't feel a whole lot of difference (I drove the GLE and my SE on the same nasty Michigan-road test drive). It made so little difference to me I ended up picking the SE because I liked the color better (the same charcoal grey Porsche uses, my favorite color of any car I've owned).

    My last car was an Olds Intrigue and it had a pretty cushy ride, but my Max SE is actually softer-sprung and handles crappy roads a LOT more gracefully. The GLE actually had a bit more body roll ripping through turns (yes, I "ripped" through turns, it's the only way to drive a Maxima lol). If I had to do it over again I'd buy the exact same car, no regrets.

    As for people complaining about vibration, I notice it on my car when it's really cold (freezing or below) outside. Once the car gets going for about a mile or so the vibration goes away, leading me to believe it's the 17" tires. On Tirerack's site I've read similar complaints about the Bridgestones. I don't really mind it too much, I'm going to abuse the heck out of my tires next summer and then buy better, "long term" ones. :)

    Did I mention I love my car? I think it's possible I'll be one of those nuts who, 20 years down the road, I'm on my 4th Maxima. It's just perfect in every way, I can't really ask anything more of a car.
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    what part of michigan?
  • anyone seen tonight's Dateline NBC's episode on the tricks dealerships play with people buying new cars?

    it included tricking people into higher interest rates, decreasing someone's monthly payment amount but also by increasing the length of the loan...etc etc..

    like they said, the only way to buy a new car, is to go to your credit union, get your loan pre-approved and then buy it the car at invoice + taxes, and no other fees..
  • ocuihsocuihs Posts: 138
    Car sales: Tricks of the trade Click Here

  • The 00 Maxima's GLE model shipped with 16" wheels and tires as standard equipment while the SE model shipped with 17" wheels and tires.

    There's significantly more rubber between a GLE wheel and the road than on the SE wheel.

    Most 2000 models available as used are probably ready for new tires anyhow so I'd focus on getting the right car in good condition regardless of particular model and then consider changing wheels/tires if the ride isn't what your looking for.

    I have a 00 Maxima SE with the standard 17" wheel and tire package. It is definitely a rougher ride than the GLE model BUT it's mostly because of the wheel size.

    I switch out the 17" wheels and tires every winter with a set of 16" wheels and snows for the winter and the ride definitely gets softer.
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    many of the things they talked about are things MOST buyers are familiar with in the first place. nowhere did i see where they "tricked" anyone into a higher interest rate. the rate is done on a cost/retail basis just like the car is. nothing new or sneaky about that.

    aside from the obvious notion that there are crooks out there, they didnt show me much to get excited about...except the way they sensationalize things.
  • kennyg5kennyg5 Posts: 360
    It is days like this that I wish I have an SUV or a Jeep. From the weather forecast, it looks like we will have 12 inches of snow before the day ends. I have an 03 Max GLE, and the OEM all season tires are not very good in snow. Even though I have TCS and ABS, I am afraid of taking the car out when there is more than 8 inches of snow on the ground. Any recommendation for 17 inch snow tires? I looked at Tirerack and did not see many choices. Will 16 inch tires (the OEMs are 17) fit well?
  • Check Tire I'm pretty sure 16" wheels and tires will fit. The Blizzack WS-50's seem to tbe some of the best (reasonably priced, too) snow tires out there.

    If you've never driven on dedicated snow tires, your in for an incredible treat. The difference between average snow tires and the BEST all season tires in snow is night and day.

    I will warn you however, once you get dedicated snows, you'll be hooked on them and in all likely hood will never drive in snow and ice season without them again (or allow your loved ones to drive without them either).

    The difference is amazing.

    I have two sets of the Blizzack WS-50's, one for the 95 Maxima and another for the 00 Maxima. I wish they made them for my 03 Murano but nothing is available yet.

    An obvious additional side benefit is that you save significant wear and tear on your stock wheels and tires while the snows are in place. I'm on my 4th winter now with the first of WS-50's and I'll probably replace them at the end of this winter.
  • Hi all,
           I am trying to decide between a 2003 Maxima versus a 2004 Camry LEV6. I drove the Camry. It is very smooth, but doesn't take off from zero as quickly as even my current 1999 Maxima. I am not a rash driver though.

    I drove the 2003 Maxima the other day and it was pretty awesome. Since I hate the front grille of the 2004 Maxima not to mention its high price, I am leaning towards a 2003 Maxima.

    Does anyone know if the 2003 Maxima has had any recalls or major known issues?
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