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Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems



  • Hey that's great and all, but Toyota doesn't list any of that in its service manual. My Toyota Camry was serviced at the dealer and still they tried to sock me with a $2800 engine rebuild bill. I fought them for six weeks unsuccesfully until I threatend litigation. Then they said they would pay for parts only. I had to fight them to pay for labour. I was not alone. The back service lot must of had 30 sludge engined Toyotas and Lexus' waiting for rebuilds. Many, MANY unhappy customers besides me. I'll will not set foot in a Toyota dealership ever again.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,870
    I don't blame you one bit! What year was the Camry? Around a 2000? I have heard similar horror stories about Toyota's customer service and sludge, especially around the turn of the millenium....

    But, no manufacturer will put that information in their service manual because they do not want your car to last a long time with very little maintenance cost! If you want good information on synthetics (not just Amsoil), find an Amsoil dealer, have a long conversation, and ask for literature on the subject.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • kitt78kitt78 Posts: 3
    I've encountered some problems with my transmission (Dodge Grand Caravan Sport
    3.8 AWD year 2000 ).
    I've already exchange transmissin oil three times (once with filter) Oil was
    dirty and brownish but smells normally -(not burned). Now is Reddish.
    I've exchanged Solenoid Pack (brand new)
    I've checked by OBDII reader - but no transmission error codes
    (question: is it possible to check and read codes by standard OBDII
    reader codes from transmission? or it is possible only by DRBII)

    My main problem is:
    When I start my car in the morning (engine is cold and aslo transmission
    oil is cold; ambient temp. 15 Deg Celcius)

    Engine works fine, idle approx 900~700rpm.

    And after changing from PtoR or NtoD or NtoR (and all other combination
    when cold - engine stops idle - dies,

    -Then I start again engine try to put gear once again sometimes is good> and I can drive - no problems all day(until next morning)

    - or sometimes I must afer changing gear to D or R quickly release brake
    - car is driving going forward or reverse.
    If in last case if I push brake pedal just after releasing brake pedal
    Engine will stop idle. But I if I push brake pedal after 100m of driving
    it will be no problem all day long)

    I was visiting couple mechanics (they dont have DRBII or DRBIII scanning
    tool) - first diagnosis Solenoid Pack (it's replaced now brand new).
    but after replacement no luck.

    It could be in the valve body of the electronic
    transaxle where there is a switch valve, a control valve and a regulator
    valve all three related to the torque converter clutch.

    How to check this Valves - if they are working correctly or not (after disassembly Valve body)?
  • I would have to say if there is no codes then it would be the torque converter it self not the valve or solenoids.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I've heard on a different minivan related site that Chrysler got a bad batch of transmissions (or was it transmission components?) from a supplier that has led to a rash of failures. As I understand it, Chrysler changed suppliers and the problem has since been corrected, and now they are waiting for the pipeline to refill due to the extra demand for transmissions (both for production as well as for warranty replacements).

    Keep us posted.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Personally I'm kind of doubting that your problem has anything to do with the transmission and everything to do with the engine sensors. Find a competent mechanic that has the necessary diagnostic equipment and have the problem pinpointed. Throwing parts at a problem like this is almost always more expensive than paying for a professional that knows what he or she is doing, even if that individual costs more than the guy next door.
  • Yes you are correct, but it's hard to find correct person to manage this issue in my country.
  • Hello

    I have this same problem with my Dodge Grand Caravan 2000. 3.8L AWD.

    When it's cold outside below 15deg Celcius and car is not used for more than 8 hours, I must long wait for warming up the engine or put gear on quickly as I can just after engine start. Sometimes thats enough for all day or after couple meters I stop - engine stall again, I suppose that it could be something wrong with Valves on the Valve body, or Toque Converter is dying. I've changed already Solenoid Pack and I'm keeping changing oil at right time (ATF +3, 7176)

    How do you repaired your car?
    Please advise, Thanks in advance.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,870
    This sounds like it might be a vacuum issue. Have you checked the vacuum hoses to ensure there are no breaks?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • This is it #1 cylinder misfire... new plugs wires and coil pack...still not fixed then new valves in head so new head and intake gaskets back together...still misfire back apart took out the piston bearings are fine rings look fine but putting new in we will see what happens this time . anyone have a clue....? :sick:
  • I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.8 engine and 4spd od trans. There is a clicking noise seams to only do it when van is in park. Could this be a problem with the parking pawl? All the forums I have read about the Parking Pawl talk about the van rolling in park when parked on a hill or not being able to shift in to Rev or Natural I have neither of these problems just a clicking noise seams to be coming from the left side
  • Whenever I put the shifter into any forward gears, the instrument panel and everything that is electrical goes black and the engine idles very rough. When in P, N or R it acts perfectly fine. What is wrong with my transmission, a sensor or a short in the wiring?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Does the "clicking" noise happen constantly when in Park, or does it only seem to happen when shifting into or out of Park?

    If it is constant, you might have a cracked flex plate (a stamped piece of metal that connects the output shaft of the transmission to the torque converter), however, if it only happens immediately after changing gears, the noise is the solenoid and is completely normal.

    Best regards,
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    The good news is that your transmission is most likely operating properly.

    The (relatively inexpensive to fix) bad news is that there are most likely a number of solder connections in your instrument cluster that need resoldering.

    Best regards,
  • I have an 05 T & C, when I drive on the freeway the trans starts making noise, if i drive on surface streets there isn't any noise. The fuild is clean, red and does not appear to be burnt. Any ideas?
  • I have a 1998 dodge grand caravan at 170k miles, i bought it last year at 158k.

    About two months ago it started the trans started to slip in the morning (if i drive it around the block for 10 minutes) then it functions properly. through internet search i was able to detect that it may be it was low on transmission fluid. Adding the fluid ( about 3 quarts) the problem disappeared for about a month. Last week the problem started again and it seems it gets worse as the days gets colder.

    The check engine light has come on, i got the following codes from the ODB-II equipment;

    a) P0732 -- Gear 2 incorrect ratio
    b) p1782 -- Pressure switch
    c)P0700 -- Transmission Control System (MIL request)

    I need help to know what implication these codes have on my tranny, is it worth it to repair or should i just cut my losses?

    Note; Last time i didn`t flush the transmission fluid (just added some more), should i do this now?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,870
    Is it low on fluid again? If not, there may be bad seals internally on the transmission, which is causing the pressure to seep out and preventing normal operation. this would require a rebuild. If the fluid is burnt (brown in color), it needs to be replaced and is not likely providing the protection or the hydraulic characteristics the unit needs.

    If you have to rebuild the transmission, you might consider cutting your losses given the mileage on the vehicle, but it all depends on whether you can get into something else that is reliable for an amount in your budget. There is nothing worse than abandoning one old vehicle only to get into another one and have serious maintenance/repair issues to address right away. :sick:

    If the engine and other drivetrain components are in good shape, my concern at this point would be the reliability of the electrical system. I have a '98 DGC with 213,000 miles on it that is dead due to electrical gremlins. The rest of the van is in excellent condition. I really wanted to use it a couple more years, but my wife said she had enough and we bought a new car. The van is still in the driveway.... :cry:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • You can order a used trans thru the net, might be cheaper but, if the engine is not in good condition or electrical. No one I know has xray vision. I got ride of my 1995 only AFTER TRANS started to slip and died on me. I put everything in it, I spent 2k from both drive shafts to new braking system. I got $100 bucks trade in when I pushed it into the dealership. Left me on foot, I thought I could get another 2 years with all the repairs. MY WIFE was at the dealerhsip waiting for me and 1st thing, I TOLD YOU SO!!!....... The more miles you have on it the chances a major failure will happen.

    Good luck.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I'm not sure I would put $2K+ into a 12 year old Grand Caravan with that kind of miles on it. Maybe if you had been the original owner and was thoroughly familiar with the van's history, but that doesn't appear to be the case here.

    You might want to do a complete transmission drain and refill and clean the filter/screen and see what that does for you. Do not do a flush. And make sure you fill with the right type of transmission fluid.
  • I bought this van 4 years ago at a dealer, It had about 30,000 miles on it. They replaced the transmission when we bought it. At 70,000 the transmission just died while we were on the highay heading to Fla. for vacation. It was still under warranty
    and an out of state dealer replaced the transmission, It has about 5,000 miles on it and I went to go out yesterday and the transmission is gone again, of course my original warranty ran out 3 weeks ago. We did have our local dealer check it out when we returned from our trip, they said it was fine. Does anyone know if the dealership or Chrysler should be responsible? I mean it only has 5,000 miles on it, and they charged $3,500 to put it in.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    On something that major doesn't the dealer/manufacturer warranty it for at least 12 months or 12,000 miles? It seems odd that the replacement transmission (assuming it's OEM) is not under warranty. Good luck.
  • chrysler autos are the worst cars in America, i have 96 voyager with 135k, the only reason why i still have it bc it uses a Mitsubishi motor
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,870
    That's interesting, given that the Mitsu motor was the least reliable of the bunch during that era. My '98 DGC, with its 3.8L V6, has 213,000 miles on it. The engine still purrs like new. ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Too funny, the Mitsubishi engines used by Chrysler were by far the crappiest engines ever put in a Chrysler minivan. You're actually proud of yours? I don't get it. :confuse:

    From a different prespective, there are many-many documented cases of 3.3 and 3.8 liter engines that have three, four, and even five-hundred thousand trouble free miles on them with no more than regular maintenance and a few changes of valve cover gaskets.

    Long story short, you couldn't pay me to have a Chrysler minivan with the Mitsusquishy 3.0. :P
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Wasn't the 3.3 a Mitsubishi also? We had that engine in our '94 Caravan, and it provided us 174,000 trouble free miles. Replaced pugs one time (I think), and maybe the O2 sensor. Outside of that, never had to touch the engine.
  • no the 3.3 is a chrysler engine only the 3.0 for the v6 vans was mitsubishi.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    As leadfoot69 correctly stated, the 3.3 liter engine is a virtual twin of the 3.8 liter mill with the only significant difference between these two Chrysler engines being the bore and stroke. Long story short, the 3.3 and 3.8 liter engines are very robust and long lived with just regular maintenance, and that is in direct contrast to the Mitsubishi engine that is known to have significant valve and valve guide problems as well as leaking oil like a sieve. ;)

    Best regards,
  • My 2002 Chrysler t&c has a code p0740 which is the Torque Converter Control Circuit Malfunction and another code p0700 which is the Trans Control System Malfunction. I've read that the problem is electrical or the actual Torque Converter is ACTIALLY coming apart! It feel and sounds like the later unfortunately.
    Has anyone ever experienced this or have any useful advice? I'm on Maui and the service shops either are worthless or a rip off or both!
    Please email response to mauikeith73@gmail. Com or here, either way.
    Mahalo, Keith
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