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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Great to hear about your ownership experience! I hope you enjoy many more miles to come with it.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    On Friday my car turned 110. I am really into it because I purchased the car with about 13k miles on it. This means that I am but a few miles away from personally putting 100,000 mules on the olds girl.

    However, it is was made clear to me that very same day and on the very same trip, that the Olds girl ain't what she used to be. Granted, my 95 like Ali, Jordan, et al. had its day in the spotlight but it is no longer center stage. I was pulling onto a highway when an Acura already on the highway pulled up along side me. I kept my foot on the gas saying to myself "No act cure ah" was going to pull ahead of aROARa. WRONG! WRONG! WRONG!

    The Acura TL driver decided SHE wanted to be in front of me and kicked it. The car passed me like I was standing still. I have since rationalized the situation by saying: 1) I was still accelarating while the Acura wa on the road, 2) I did not have the performance button puched in, 3) We were going up hill, 4) I did have Gulf gas in the car; 5)the sun was in my eyes; 6) Yeah I could have taken her 100,000 miles ago.

    While my 95 may no longer be top dog. It still looks better at 110 than that "Act CURE AH" looked straight off the assembly line. Can I get an amen anyone? :)
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Amen! (Henri, I was wondering where you were lately :-)

    I put 1000 miles on my overhauled '98 (new shocks, struts, rear rotors, front and rear pads) this weekend (trip to Michigan for my wife's uncle's funeral). Wow, it's amazing how great the car rides with the new parts (my right front strut could be compressed with one finger; it stayed compressed for 5 minutes, only decompressing when layed sideways :-)

    The car does not have the neck-snapping acceleration of my GTO, but it is still pretty quick/surprises people. Thanks to some boneheaded road construction in Michigan (whose idea was it to completely shut down I-96 west of Detroit?), I got behind and needed to make up some time. Spent a fair amount of time approaching triple-digit speeds on rural interstates, going into 30-40 mph headwinds, and the old girl just kept humming along and offering me more.

    Only problem I had was that the plastic piece on the outside of each B-pillar, between the windows, was "bowing out" - also had a ton of wind noise. At my next gas stop, I looked, and the 3 plastic tabs that hold that piece in were broken on each side! A little ghetto repair (electrical tape wrapped a couple of times around each B-pillar at the top and the bottom) fixed that right up and reduced the wind noise. I'll be ordering the new parts tomorrow :-)

    96k on his '98 (27k when I got it over 4 1/2 years ago), and still rolling...
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Maybe NOT as dethroned as I thought! My mechanic tells me that the car is not operating at full power because of a skip or stutter in its performance. I may need a tune up or something done to the car. So the "A CHOO AH" may have beat a wounded warrior, SO IT DOES NOT COUNT!

    Whew :D
  • WOW! What a great email. Thanks for sharing your good experiences with an American car. Now I'm even sadder that I had to sell my second one (a Final 500). Oh well, hopefully, there's a Hemi in my future.

    Sorry GM, you just don't cut it anymore.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I'm not sure if it is an imbalance of some sort of poor burn. At around 1500 , most noticeble, you can feel it in the wheel. I've been leaning towards improper burn because milage seems to be down some. The idea of something like harmonic balancer just occurred and I would like some advice on how to approach. It does seem a little better after switching to a tank of Techron supreme.

    I really don't want to shotgun this thing and wonder of maybe buying one coil to rotate out for troubleshooting and maybe one injector and doing same. Plugs looked good, AC platinum. Wires, I don't recall what brand. Seems peppy under full acceleration with no miss. I have noted that the exhaust sounds a little strange under cruise sometimes.
    Maybe like burn is incomplete before valves open? Not sure what the proper name for the sound is. gurgle?

    Need help.
    Does anyone know what a complete readout of the OBDII costs? fuel trim and all. And is an ignition analysis considered separate so it is likely I'd have to pay for both, if I take it somewhere?
  • Hi folks, been awhile since my 96 has been running good but it appears it needs rear rotors, they are very worn. How hard are they to change, pretty straight forward? I have done many a brake job but never on the aurora.

    Any ideas on why the front end could be loose? When I go over railroad tracks or multiple bumps there are allot of rattles from underneath. Car has 135,000 and I am not sure of maintenance history on front end.

  • Any thoughts on this? I was reading where the rear caliper pistons don't push in but screw in? Do these automaticaly adjust when the new pads are installed or do you have to manually adjust? Is there a write-up on this?

  • Paul,

    See #411 in "Care and Maintenance." Yes, you have to screw the pistons into the caliper cylinder until they bottom out to make room for the thickness of the new pads. I was never able to find a tool that fit correctly, but was able to use one of those universal cube-shaped tools that was close enough to work. No adjustment needed.

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    The self adjuster is part of the parking brake and a good reason to always use it.
    Also, and Ford has disseminated this info, when parking without using the parking brake tension in the drive train between the points of transmission parking pawl and the wheel, forces lubricant from between all mating surfaces. Tear down comparisons showed extra wear at specific points that bore the thrust from this tension consistantly. The conclusion was that it was causing a dry start at this points where lubrication was forced out.
    So when you brake to put in park, set park brake before releasing foot brake, and the reverse when starting up. Move from park before disengaging brakes.
    My conclusion is that if it caused significantly enough wear that Ford wrote about it, they were likely concerned with in warranty issues. So what about all the other wear points, such as CV joints. Under static pressure grease will be forced from contact points.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    If you have never replaced the front struts, that could be a real reason why your car rattles so much going over bumps. It was amazing the difference in ride quality in my '98 between the worn-out struts and rear air shocks, once they were replaced.

    It's also possible some of the suspension bushings are shot (polyurethane replacements, anyone)?

  • I noticed that while driving in colder weather the engine water temps are higher than when the amb is warmer. I also notice a slight increase in overall operating water temp since last year. Does this sound like a thermostat problem or a clogged rad in need of flushing? Is it difficult to change a thermostat if thats what it needs?
    This is a 1996 w/130,000 miles.

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Have you checked your coolant with an antifreeze tester? Flushed your coolant anytime recently? I'd do those things before starting to swap parts... and don't forget to use the sealant tabs if you do the flush and fill...

  • Can someone post the Classic's EPA miles per gallon numbers (city and highway)? Was there a change for 2001+?

    Merry Christmas to all!

  • Anyone have the part number for these tablets and how many do you add after a complete flush. I have an early 95 (#471) and it came from the factory with the green antifreeze. It was flushed 2 years ago when I bought the car and have not had to add any water since. Never runs above 210 so no cooling issues at this point. I always warm the car up about 5 to 10 minutes before driving. After warming up lately I notice spots of water on the garage floor beneath the exhaust tips. Not big puddles but only about 2 to 3" diameter. I would think this is normal condensation accept 2 days later the spots have not evaporated which leads me to believe they may contain antifreeze. As a precaution I want to add the seal tabs. When driving on a cold morning, my car seems to emit a little more steam than others on the road. Not nearly a fog machine like when my old 3.8 Taurus blew a head gasket.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,319
    Go to a Buick/Cadillac dealer parts department. Tell them which car it's for. They will look it up. My usual dealer had the right ones for LeSabre in a baggie like out of a bulk unlabeled shipment. The next year another dealer had a GM card with part number. But he asked which car--different tabs or sizes for different cars. I put in two out of 5 in the pack--don't want to clog the heater core.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    In 1995 the Aurora was rated 17 city, 24 highway. In the following years, 1996 on, it was rated 17/26 for some reason. Perhaps they tested the autobahn version in 95? The V8 aurora was still rated 17/26 in 2003.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    For 2002 on the rating climbed to 18/26. :)
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    Actually the city dropped to 17 in 2003. In 2001 it was 17/25, then up to 18/26, then down to 17/26.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    If you have a Classic Aurora, you can probably complete one of the two versions the following statement.

    1) Please DON'T close the door by _____ ___ _ _____.


    2) Please DON'T ______ __ ___ _____ when you close the door.

    Come on you Classic guys, I know you know this one.
  • I'm considering purchasing a 2001 Aurora V6 from my dad. He's getting the new car itch and will sell the car to me for what the dealer offered him. It has about 45000 miles on it and the only issue it had was a problem with the torque converter (needed replaced at 30000 mi). It is in great shape, the interior still smells like new, and it'd be a great deal for me. However, I'm a little concerned about future repairs, etc. I have a pretty basic 2000 Grand Am (manual windows, 4cyl, etc) that has 85000 miles on it but there's really not a whole lot to go wrong with it and it has been very reliable. Are there any issues with the 2001+ models (esp V6) that I should be aware of beforehand? Thanks.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Common issues with the 2001 cars include:

    a) crankshaft position sensors (more on the V8, but I do hear V6 folks having this issue)
    b) Intermediate Steering Shaft - "clunking" on turns or over bumps
    c) on the V6 models, when the secondary air pump is active, the current draw is too much for the alternator, and it can make the lighting (both internal and external) flicker.

    Does your dad have the 3/36 or the 5/60 warranty on his car? GM went to the higher warranty standard after the Olds shutdown announcement in 12/2000. Later on, you could drop the warranty down for an additional $1k credit.

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313

    Yep, Christmas night, driving home from my brother's house, my '98 started making a driveline noise (like a loud road hum - thought it was the pavement at first since it was a new stretch of road). Noticed it also didn't seem to want to go over 45 mph. No CEL. Pulled off the freeway, checked everything out (trans fluid, checked the intake, reset PCM by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes), still no go (seemed OK if you were rolling under 45 mph). Finally broke down and called my brother, who gave me a ride home.

    Had it towed to a trans shop yesterday. When the tow truck driver (who bears an uncanny resemblance to Chris Elliott - maybe that's what he's doing these days) drove the car off the flatbed, I heard a rattling sound from the right front, like a BB rolling around the rim. Could the wheel hub/bearing be failing?

    My August '97 built '98 has the Autobahn package, and the TSB about shift solenoids does apply to some '98's. I'm hoping, if it's the tranny, that's it (tach was a little high, but not close to redline, but I didn't push it since something was wrong). Otherwise, I've got a line on a couple different junkyard trannies (different depending on the Julian date of the trans - yes, both have the 3.71 Autobahn gearing) for around $400. Anyone know the book time to swap a tranny?

    Oh yeah, I remembered that my third-party extended warranty was still in effect (100k miles or early January '06 - I have 98,650 miles on the car). Went to their web site... and their assets have been seized by the Hawaii Insurance Commissioner, and they're in liquidation. Oh well, can't really complain seeing how I got over $4500 in repairs paid out on an $1100 warranty...

    Still waiting on the shop's diagnosis,

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Good news. It was the wheel hub assembly (right front)... literally falling apart (one stud was broken, it and the lug nut were rolling around inside the rim - the other lugs were loose, and another stud broke when they went to tighten it). $330 later and she should be cured... whew!

    Of course, the hubs usually go in pairs... I'm having them check the left one out. If nothing else I will probably replace it next fall when I pull the Aurora out of storage again (GTO comes out sometime in April)...

  • push on the glass
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Oh good, I've been wondering what he was getting at!! That makes sense! :shades:
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    You are correct.

    Do you know how many times I have had to say that to people?

    Though I have never heard of it happenning to anyone, I am concerned that one day the glass will just break.

    I have taken to not only telling people, but rolling down the glass when "new riders" with me get out of the car.

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Glad to hear it's nothing serious. That said, check the wheel studs on the other side. You can also compare their length to a new stud to see if they stretched.

    The Regal had a similar, though worse, incident wherein the driver's side front wheel decided to take its leave of the car at about 60mph. Two wheel studs had snapped and the lugs stripped right off the other three. The three were about 1/4" longer than the replacements, making me wonder if the replacements weren't too short. When I then replaced the other side for safety's sake, I noticed they were the same length as the replacements. So the wheel studs had stretched significantly.
  • I just bought a 1999 Aurora and one of the reading lamp bulbs needs replaced. I pulled the lens cover off and cannot figure out how to remove the bulb. Any help?
  • sdasda Indian Land, SCPosts: 1,970
    Sad to say, I sold my 01 4.0 about a month ago. My father gave me his car as he can no longer drive. His car is paid for, is in perfect condition and should have many miles left. Payments were still being made on the Aurora, and a third car in the driveway was too many... My 4 yr old daughter still asks about "Aurora". "She was a sweet girl and I miss her. Daddy, can you get her back?" I wish I could. To the rest of you...enjoy. In our family we still have a '98 Aurora with 60k (mom's) and she will not consider getting rid of it. Good Luck and I wish you many miles of happy ownership!

    2010 Pilot EXL-RES, 2013 Accord EX

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