Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala



  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I've only had mine done once when my 2000 was still under warranty, and I'm approaching 98k miles now, so hopefully doing it once will cure the problem.
  • I just had my turn signal module replaced today on my 2000 Impala with 70k miles. Symptoms were 1. Working ok, 2. Not working at all, and 3. Turn singal would work, stop working, and then start working while waiting to take a turn. $140 Ttotal, $70 for the part, $70 to install.

    While there they told me about leaking Intake Manifold. After reading a lot of these messages, seems to be common. I need help getting GM to pay for this or partially paying for it. It's an $830 job. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • Hi,

    I just had my turn signal module repalced today ($140) and I was told I had a Leaking Manifold Gasket on my 2000 Impala, 3.8L, with 70K miles. It's an $830 job!

    Does anyone know how I can get GM to reimburse me for this design defect?

    Thanks in advance....

  • Hi Everyone,

    I just finished speaking with GM about reimbursing the cost to reait the leaking intake manifold on my Imapla 3.8L v6 with 70k miles.

    After waiting for them to call the dealer, they promplty said "Your car is 6 years old and out of warranty, we can not do anything for you".

    I guess customer loyatly counts for nothing.

    Does anyone have an idea how to pursue this in/out of court?

    Regards, Bob
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    As I recall there was a recall for certain VIN numbers (may not have been "technically" termed a recall, but I got a letter about it from GM). I too had already paid the $800 for the repair, but when I received my letter from GM I had to send in some paperwork to prove I'd had the repair done, and they reimbursed me for (I think for the entire $800, but I can't swear to that).

    It does seem like there were only certain VIN numbers involved, so it's possible if yours is an early 2000 model it might not have applied. You might do some searching around in the Impala forums and find where someone posted the text/details of the letter; it was probably sometime in 2003-2004 if I had to guess.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Found it; take a look at post #12059 in this forum: Manifold Coolant Leak issue - finally a GM recall !! by torque3k Jul 19, 2003 (10:14 am).

    The text of the letter is there; only problem is it says you had to reply by a certain date (which is long past), so it's possible the window of opportunity is closed (if your car was included initially).
  • Yes, I actually had this done in 2003. The problem is that this is only for the Upper Manifold. My problem is the Lower Manifold Gasket. After a long search on this board, I found the group handling the Class Action Proceedings in Canada at

    They emailed the contacts for the US, I'm still trying to locate their web pages. I'll keep everyone posted.

    Thanks again for your help, it's greatly appreciated...

    Regards, Bob
  • Hi Everyone,

    Here is one of the US Legal Firms looking into the Intake Manifold Gasket issue.

    I don't know the status, but it can't hurt to let them know of your case. The more, the merrier...

    Regards, Bob
  • I purchased a 2003 Impala LS with about 200K KM on it. I have noticed a squealing sound when making a wide turn at slow speeds. Is this something I should be worried about? Also I notice a sound that sounds like a spring box coming from the passenger side of the car when cruising around at city speeds. Any suggestions on what this could be.

    Other than these issues the car is running great and I hope to get another 100K out of it.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    The squealing sound is probably low power steering fluid; I topped mine off when I finally figured out what it was and the noise went away.

    No idea on the other sound though (but I haven't reached 200k KM yet!).
  • I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the sugguestion.
  • I need to purchase an "airport car" that will be used to park at the airport on business trips and to run around town in. I love my Tundra but can't justify size/MPG unless I need to do truck stuff. On paper the Impala looks like the perfect fit...good MPG,safe and sporty. Any thoughts? Any thing I sould be on the lookout for? My research shows the 02-03's are the most reliable used cars. Thanks for feedback!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    As a 2000 owner that's been hanging out here since early that year, I'd say you're probably right about the 2002-2003 models. If fuel economy is your primary concern, a 3.4l base model would be your best bet. But as I recall the only way to get ABS and traction control is to get the 3.8l version (which is what I've got). EPA figures on the 3.8 were 20-city/30-highway, which are very realistic based on my experience the past 6 years.

    There was a recall involving the 3.8l and warping of the upper intake manifold which covered some 2000-2001 models, and might have reached into the 2002 models as well (I honestly can't remember). You might dig around a little on this board and find some more info on that, but I'm pretty sure the 2003 models were in the clear, so for that reason alone you might focus on the latter model.

    FWIW if you've got an eBay account you can set up automated searches within a range of your ZIP code that will send you daily updates if anyone posts a certain car within your area; if I were looking for something specific I'd definitely set one of those so you'd be on top of anything on there that's within a distance you could actually drive to look at before bidding.
  • I just purchased a high mileage 2000 Chevy Impala LS. It has 156K but I have to tell you it runs like it is brand new. All the miles on the car are highway miles and I am so happy with the car.

    I'd like to know who has the highest miles on their Impala. I read a review that said these cars are supposed to be able to last to 400,000. I highly doubt any Impala will see that, but I'm curious.
  • We purchased our LS new and it has 27,000 original miles and still looks new. When I bring it in for inspection, they think it is alot newer. I just replaced the original air filter with a K&N, should have done that years ago. the only issue I have is the ISS needs greasing. I might take it apart myself, I have the factory repair manuals, the size of 2 large phonebooks.
  • I have been fixing cars for 25 years as a hobby and still do my own stuff when I can and for others. I decided to give this ISS issue a look over.
    I pulled the boot that covers the ISS down, it is located under the dash, just above the brake pedal. It is about 4" in diameter. I noticed that it looks like a mini universal joint and it is hollow in the middle. I thought, the shaft must slide up and down in the middle and that is why it is binding.
    I wasn't sure I could get grease in there so I used som PB Blaster, penetrating oil. I squirted it down the hole in the middle and guess what, no more noise.

    Not sure how long it will last, even if it is months, it takes 5 minutes and pennies to fix.

    The reason I chose PB blaster Penetrating Catalyst,
    PB Blaster is a powerful, concentrated penetrant frees rusted or frozen parts by releasing the surface tension that causes parts to stick. Lubricates to protect against future rust and corrosion.

    Only time will tell. I attached a picture, the arrow points toward the hole in the middle.

  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I had my ISS dealt with by my dealer several years ago, and just today I thought I might have felt the problem coming back. I think the fix involved drilling a hole and installing a grease fitting, but I've often wondered where this fitting was. I'll try to remember to look under my dash when I get a chance and see if I can find the same piece you've pictured, AND see if I can indeed locate a grease fitting. If so, I'll try shooting a little grease into it myself and see if I notice any difference or not.

    One question - where's the firewall in relation to this photo?
  • the firewall is behind the ISS, look under the dash, you cant miss the black rubber boot, just pull it down
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I just craweled around and looked under mine, and unless the grease fitting is further down the shaft than I can push back the rubber boot, I can't see any evidence of a fitting added to my ISS. I did find the hole you're talking about though, and may spray a little WD-40 in there and see if that helps. I stuck my finger in a little bit, and got a little bit of yellowish grease on it, but I don't think I'm ready to just fill the thing with grease at this point.

    I did find that there's a panel under the dash which just clips on at the front, and it has the under-dash light attached to it. If you remove the clips and lower the panel, you can twist out the bulb housing and use it as a flashlight to take a look in the area. I checked the shaft from the "universal joint" up to the steering wheel, and definitely found nothing there. I'll do a little digging around and if I find a grease fitting I'll let you know, but if nothing else I'll shoot a little WD-40 in and see what happens.
  • I know the PB blaster works, got it at Advance Auto. I'll bet that 3 in 1 oil would do the same, basicly stops the binding. I thought I had a brake problem also but the lube solved everything, it rides as smooth as new now, no noises. Only time will tell how long it will last. I am willing to spray a little every few months if I have too.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I couldn't find my WD-40; tried something else I had, but didn't have the "straw" that came with it to pinpoint where I was spraying the stuff, so can't say it did me any good. Did you basically spray your PB blaster down the hollow tube (and if so, approx. how long/much did you spray), and/or did you spray the entire UV joint assembly as well?

    One difference I noticed between your photo and what I saw on mine; whereas your UV joint has these nicely machine pressed divots holding the thing together, mine had those as well as a number of irregular looking dents in it if part of the "fix" to mine might have involved taking a chisel and hammering around on the UV joint in an effort to take out any slack in the piece.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I've got a sporatic problem with my 2000 Impala radio; it's the version with the single CD player + cassette. Every now and then (especially on hot days), I'll have trouble ejecting a CD from the player. I hit the "eject" button and the CD raises up and is visible in the opening, but for whatever reason it won't project forward enough to grab and remove. Typically it will pull the CD back in and try again a couple of times, then stop (with the CD inside). The only way I've been able to get the CDs out in this case is to take something like a pocket knife and slip under the CD when it's trying to eject and try to help slide it out, but of course when I do I end up scratching my CDs.

    Anyone else having this problem, and if so, any suggestions to fix it (other than dubbing my CDs to cassette!!)?
  • I just sprayed for a few seconds. It actually started dripping from the botton on to the floor. Still steers like new
  • gerry100gerry100 Posts: 100
    I've got a chance to purchase an '04 Impala LS or an "04 Camry from my company.

    Both are salesman cars, 75-80K miles, regular oil changes and maintenance, comparably equipped.

    Interestingly enough, the residual value for my company ( basically what I'll have to pay)is almost $5k higher for the Camry.

    I've been in and driven both, no way the Camry is even close to worth that much more.( IMHO, the Imp drives and rides better) These prices are based somewhat on on perception. My feeling is that the Camry is priced too high and the Impala too low.

    Therefore, I am thinking of helping my recent graduate daughter buy the Impala. Objective is to get her in a reasonably economical,safe, low maintenance car that will last her for a few years -(70-80K miles?).

    Good Idea? Inputs appreciated.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    The Impala is an LS, which means the larger 3.8l engine, plus ABS, traction control, etc. Can you provide any details on the Camry (4-cylinder versus V6, trim level, etc.)?

    Granted as a 2000 Impala owner I'm biased, but I'd also lean towards the Impala, due not only to cost, but also room, safety, ride, etc.

    As you've discovered, Camry's have better resale value, but by the same token they tend to cost more (or be discounted less) initially, so my take on that is it is basically a wash. I'm sure if you were to price both these cars down the road with 150k miles on them the Camry would be worth more, but then again you'll have paid more for it.

    I'd buy the Impala and take some of the money you're saving and sock it away somewhere so that if you have some problem with the car you've got money to cover it, and if not when it's time to trade cars you'll have some money available for a down payment.
  • batistabatista Posts: 159
    I have had nothing but problems with my 01 Impala.
    First the engine cradles issues, intake manifold, intermediate steering shaft and now for the second time transmission problems.
    I thought Ford had tranny problems--GM is even worse.
    Shuddering, slipping and flares and after I spent $700 for the PCS to be replaced and now 6 months later same problems.
    Great reliability in the Impala and with only 34K miles.
    That's right only 34K miles and the first trans problems occured with 30K miles.
    They are going to have big problems with this powertrain warranty they now have.
  • yeeyee Posts: 7
    I agree with you 100%. I owned a 2000 Impala LS. I had to get rid of it less than 5 years at ~56000 miles. It costed me over $4000 for repairs after the warranty.

    Here is a list of my problems after 36000 miles:

    1) Water leak from passenger side firewall (happened twice in 2.5 years)
    2) Intermediate steering shaft
    3) Replaced Power steering rack
    4) Air condition (replaced condenser and evaporator)
    5) Power steering fluid leak (almost caught fire under the hood)
    6) One of the engine valve spring broken (big $$$$ to fix and I gave up after that!!).
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    I think it's hit or miss with these Impala's. Some have many, and/or re occurring problems, and some have relatively few problems. Myself and a fellow supervisor at work both own 2001 Impala's. Mine is a 3.8, his is a 3.4. Mine has 51,000 miles, and his has 102,000 miles. I drive relatively short distances, he drives long distances, plus drives out of town several hundred miles several times a year. Neither of us has had powertrain problems. We both had the blower resistor problem. I had the BCM problem. My power steering hose seems to be "damp", but doesn't seem to drip. No other problems other than that we both have a minor exhaust leak somewhere. (My single exhaust now sounds like a dual, and his single sounds even louder). His 2003 Malibu has had the ignition switch replaced, and presently suffers from an intake manifold leak. (119,00 miles) I had a 1991 Cavalier that I had for 10 years and 143,000 miles. Only problems: Exhaust leak after 129,000 miles, and blower motor replacement after 139,000 miles. (No crappy electronic computer annoyances. Both rear wheelhouses rusted through, though, so I got rid of it, but GM's older technology was a lot more reliable and long lasting than anything they build today. The whole GM line suffers from computer/electronic crap-outs.
  • On my 2004 Impala LS the Tire sensor light comes on after a long drive even when all tires have approriate pressure. If I reset it thorugh the radio it goes away. The manual says that if one tire goes 8 psi diff than the other the light will come on. Should I reset when tires are cold?
  • road46road46 Posts: 18
    Hello just checking in w an update on my 04 Impala 3.4. I now have about 25k miles on her and car is still running excellent. Nicest car I have ever owned. Do have a loose rear pass side fender panel, appears to be a loose fastener or something. This is right over the the back of the rear wheel area and it appears the car left the factory or dealer this way. Nothing major that won't be under the warranty. Also wheel covers that appear to be painted silver, flaking off. Probally will have dealer check my headlights for adjustment, since not so good at night even with the Silver Star bulb upgrade. I am thinking about a 2007 with the better headlights and redesigned interior. Not sure if the seats are as good as the power Sport Seats I have now though. Does anyone have the post # that lists the upgrades/downgrades for this model? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.