Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala



  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    If you buy a quality car wash detergent (Armor All/Turtle Wax, etc), it will take off the grease with just a little bit of elbow-grease. Dawn dishwater detergent is one of the best for removing stubborn grease but don't use it unless you have to because it will strip all the wax/polish off of your car. If you do use it, get a coat of wax on the car afterward. :)
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    I would take it back and make sure the SERVICE MANAGER is aware of the issue and get something in writing stating they will agree to fix the problem if it reoccurs. You may even want to get the sales manager to sign the agreement as well.
    As for what's wrong, suggest they test the horn after removing it from your vehicle. This will help determine if it's the horn or some problem with the power from your vehicle.
    It may be an issue with the power going to that second note. Do you remember if it was the same note going bad both times? That may help isolate a particular power lead.

    Good luck and don't feel bad about demanding your vehicle work as advertised. A silly sounding horn is something that will bother you everytime you hear it. Sure, it isn't a necessity for driving the car but it's very important to your peace of mind. Why do you think Japanese nameplates now have American style horns rather than the wimpy little "meep, meep" horns of the past?

    On your other reply about the trunk lid, beware driving with the trunk open, even slightly. The carbon monoxide danger shouldn't be underestimated. ;)
  • Hi, my 04' Impala LS blows its 15 Amp interior dome/trunk fuse about every 6 months. I'm out of 15 Amp now I'm using my 20 Amp fuse. And they blow also. Then it will be OK for 6 months. This model has the dimming feature. I found out it is controlled by the body module. Any body have any ideas?
  • bh628bh628 Posts: 100

    I just noticed that my cruise control isn't working. Bought the car in Nov '04, so just over 2 years old. No extended warranty. It just won't "engage," as Captain Picard of Star Trek would say.

    Is this still covered by any sort of original warranty? I know it's over one year, but there were some plus year items covered on some things. Not sure.

    About how much does it cost to fix the cruise control? If it's not covered, should I try to find a mechanic? I don't have a non-dealership mechanic yet.

  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    Just to rule out the simple are sure the cruise is turned on (with the indicator light) before trying to engage it, right?

    If you bought the car a little over two years ago, you should still be under the original 3yr/36,000 mile warranty unless you've passed the mileage limit. The cruise would be covered under the warranty.

    As for the cost of repair, it would depend on what's actually wrong. But, it would likely be a reasonable repair bill.
  • The driver side wiper arm is moving fine but the passenger side goes up about have way than snaps forcefully back in the "holder" that it sits in when the wipers are off. Any suggestions? I heard that all I have to do is pop the plastic cap on the joint between wiper arm and motor and then tighten up the bolts.

    How do I remove the cap?
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    The original battery in my '01 Impala is finally biting the dust and I will be replacing it soon. The dealers that I am considering for purchase of a new battery want $30 to $36 for installation. Is this something that I can do myself?
    I see that there is a bar across the top of the battery that must be removed, but otherwise it does not appear to be a big job.

    Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks1
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    Your directions for the battery installation are excellent, and I will definitely do the job myself. The only problem I can see is that I may not have the proper wrenches. It would pay me to buy what I need and still save a bunch of money over the $36 installation charge. Thanks again for your quick response.
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    This morning I bought a Duralast Gold battery from Autozone and the dealer offered to install it free + a 10% discount. I think it was a good deal for a top rated battery with an 8 year warranty (3 yr replacement). While I was waiting, I told the mechanic that I could get a start taking out the old battery to save time, and in 10 minutes I had the old battery out. The only problem was that it is a tight space and took some maneuvering. It turns out that I do have the tools needed, but just forgot that I had them.

    Thanks again for your help.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Oddly enough my battery died in my 2000 Impala tonight. Assuming the battery proves to be the problem tomorrow when I get it checked out, this will be the 3rd time I've replaced the battery. The original lasted just over 3 years, then I replaced it with an Interstate battery which lasted only a little over a year. I took it back and got a pro-rated replacement, which has now gone out just under 3 years later (it'd be 3 years in June).

    My question is, is this timeline normal for batteries today, or are Interstate batteries more prone to failure? I'm faced with taking this one back for the pro-rated difference on another Interstate, but to be honest I'm considering just going to AutoZone and starting over. The notion of a 3-year free replacement sound pretty appealing.

    Alternatively, could my battery failures be a sign of some other (alternator) problem?
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    I made my choice of battery brand by referring to Consumer Reports magazine. As I recall, Interstate was one of the lowest rated batteries. You can access the ratings article through your local library (Oct. '06 issue) or online. The Consumer Reports website will not provide the information free, but a reference librarian can show you how to get it through the library website provided they have that service.

    The Duralast standard battery is $69.99, including core, and the Duralast Gold (84 month) is $79.99. I paid $72.99 with a discount. Hope this helps!
  • our 2k ls battery went with only about 20k but got 5 years out of it. The teminal fell right off in my hand. It had a leak and it coroded the terminal right off. I got the advance auto gold battery, 3 year free replacement, 84 months total. no problems after 2 years. My wife makes alot of short trips. our 2k ls has 28k for miles.

    The ISS is still noise free after the shoot of PB blaster months ago. to think people spent $$$$ replacing it when nothing was wrong with it. If the clunk comes back, another 20 cent squirt of PB again. j
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Thanks to everybody for the input; I went by AutoZone this afternoon and got the Duralast Gold 3yr/8yr battery (78-DLG, which I think was rated at 800 CCA). I did do some online research, and felt pretty good getting the AutoZone battery; also noticed it had a "born on" date of 2/07, so at least I'm starting out with a fresh one!

    Also, another plug for the Duralast Gold comes with 3 years of roadside assistance too; there's a card attached to the battery, and you call and activate it to get 3 years of emergency jump-start assistance. Considering the battery also has a replacement warranty for 3 years, at least I feel like this one might actually last for 3 years, and if it doesn't they'll eat the cost of coming out to jump-start my car.

    This was the first time I've personally changed the battery (had it installed the other two times); it really wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be, especially with the instructions posted earlier.
  • I own a 2001 LS and my original battery never gave me a problem. When it was 5 yrs old, I decided not to fool around and change it. It never gave me any warnings or any failure to start, but I felt that a 5 yr old battery is due for replacement. I replaced it with a Dynacell battery that I bought from my Chevy Dealer when I went for a oil change. It has a 5 yr guarantee. If it fails, its replaced with a new one, no charge. So im set for another 5 yrs.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    How many miles do you have on your 2001? Just wondering if maybe you're putting fewer miles on yours than mine, and that might explaing the difference.

    I went back and looked at my records, and here's my battery history:
    03/23/2000 - Drove it off the lot new (ordered car; built 03/14, so battery would have been fresh)

    10/06/2002 - 43,189 miles (2 years, 7 months)
    Original battery died; replaced w/Interstate MT78 $113.53

    07/27/2004 - 69,095 miles (1 year, 9 months)
    Original Interstate battery died; replaced w/same model (pro-rated under warranty) $72.80

    02/29/2007 - 104,100 miles (2 years, 7 months)
    2nd Interstate battery died; replaced with AutoZone Duralast Gold 78-DLG. $81.69

    Considering my track record, I think getting the 3-year replacement warranty on the Duralast battery will likely pay off in the long run. I'm also glad I went back and looked at the prices paid, since I was feeling some guilt about not getting at least a pro-rated return on a 3rd Interstate...odds are it would have cost as much or more than the AutoZone battery, so combined with the roadside assistance that comes with the AutoZone purchase I feel even better!

    I'm hoping to drive this car another 2-3 years, so hopefully this will be last battery I'll buy for this one.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Actually in checking over things again, I only paid $25.80 for the pro-rated Interstate battery replacement in I might have paid $40 or so if I'd swapped it for another Interstate, but I think spending the extra $40 for the better warranty on the AutoZone battery is worth the peace of mind.
  • I have 70,200 miles on my LS. My car turned 6 yrs old this past Feb 10. The battery was replaced with the Dynacell a year ago, so the mileage when replacing my battery was around 60,000.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I also just posted something on the Impala Radio forum; I'd had problems for probably two months or more with my radio doing odd going into "search" mode when I was switching between pre-sets, but never "finding" anything. I also had problems with my DIC sometimes staying in the dimmer "night mode" when the rest of the dash would be daylight bright. I thought this might just be a cold weather thing, but after replacing the battery Monday afternoon (and if being very cold here the past couple of days) I've had ZERO problems with the radio or dash lighting. It may be too early to tell, but I'm hoping those problems were due to the Interstate battery not performing at 100%. So if those gremlins remain at bay for the short-term, at least if they return I can expect the battery to go in short order, and will have at least some sign that it's about to go dead.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    Electronics can be a flakey thing, sometimes. I know from experience that inconsistent voltages can make things look like their working properly even when they aren't. Thanks for the post. Little things like this can go a long way toward squashing those pesky gremlins! :)
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Another thing it was doing (at least I think) was triggering the HomeLink button to open the garage door...several times before I replaced the battery I'd go to leave and close the garage door with the HomeLink button, and look back and the door would be opening. The light in the garage wasn't flashing, so I know there wasn't something triggering it on the electric eye safety thing. And a few weeks ago I was rotating my tires and had the car halfway in the garage when the door suddenly began to close. I jumped up and stopped it with my hands before it hit the car though, and it reversed. Like I say, I can't prove it was the car doing this, but it's the only explanation I can come up with (and it has stopped since I replaced the battery).
  • Bought a "GM Certified" '05 Impala in August. 30,500 miles at delivery. Now dealer tells me it needs a 30,000 "inspection" to the tune of $500.+. I wonder what Win Kelly considers certified
  • This was not a computer generated message. I returned the car to the dealer that I purchased it from (Win Kelly Chevrolet in Clarksville, Md.) for an oil change. I was told by the service manager that the car required a transmission flush, injector flush, replacement of air and fuel filters, etc. When I took possession of the car, it had over 30,000 miles on the odometer. At the time of service, it had appx. 37,500 miles.

    I feel that if the car required a 30,000 mile service, it should have been performed prior to delivery.

    I have found this dealer unresponsive to my complaints about this, and other problems. I've also failed to get any satisfaction from Chevrolet customer service. I've purchased many GM products in the last 40 years, most of them new. This is the LAST GM product, new or used, that I'll buy
  • They tried to sell me the fuel injection cleaning, the biggest scam going. I told the guy I use REDLINE SI-1 fuel complete fuel system cleaner. It cleans the entire sytem, not just the injectors and it is $8.00 at pep boys.
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    The manufacturer's scheduled maintainence found in the owner's manual should take precedent over what a dealer suggests. I am certain that a transmission flush is not required at only 30,000 miles. The same is true of coolent flush, yet dealers will try to sell you that service.

    Also, aren't gasolines suppose to include additives to keep fuel systems clean?
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Here's something my fellow baby boomers might like to hear:
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    Great! Brings back fond memories.
  • apgroundapground Posts: 4
    Buy A Red Top OPTIMA Battery for your Impala.It is all self contained has high performance in cold & heat High shock resistance and High tolerance for accidental deep discharge.The Battery is preferred by Emergency vehicle crews.I bought the model with duel posts in case I have to give someone a jump start.Important> if you replace the battery yourself theres a 12-volt battery backup unit that the automotive stores sell.It holds 8 AA's and you plug it into your cigarette lighter which keeps a low 12-volt current.So when you disconect your battery you won't lose the cars computer settings.
  • apgroundapground Posts: 4
    I just got my Driver's mirror broken in a Hit & Run.The loser who hit me lost all of his mirror as it was all over the ground and the damage to mine was just the mirror being knocked out and broken.Mine is the non-Heated Model can I go to the Auto wrecker and buy a used one for parts and just replace the guts or Do I have to replace the whole thing.Which will have to be repainted to match my vehicle's paint color.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    You SHOULD be able to just buy the glass (or plastic) insert. I don't have any experience with the Impala's mirrors but I lost the mirror in my old Cougar from a collision with a sneaker on the interstate. The new mirror just popped right in. Hopefully, the Impala's mirror works similarly. Good luck! ;)
Sign In or Register to comment.