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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala



  • Just thought i'd drop a note hear to anyone that cared. Recently changed the tires on my 01 imp for the second time. The original tires were uniroyal tigerpaws and lasted me a bit over 100k miles. I was impressed. Replaced them with new Tigerpaws from my local dealer and was a bit disappointed inly getting about 60k out of them. This last time i went for the goodyear assurance triple treads and have loved them from day one. Corner awesome, run through puddles at higway speed and the car barely wants to pull to the side. My tigerpaws were awful as far as that went. Major kudos to the G.Y. tripletreads.
  • mymittiesmymitties Posts: 242
    Hey planefxr78...

    Yep, we sure do care.... It's good info. :) We may all have our own individual tastes as well as our own likes and dislikes, but one thing you'll find around here is that we all like to hear different experiences like this...
    There's a Great bunch of Guys (and Gals) here...

    Thanks for sharing your info....
    Frank ;)
  • This happened once before when the airbag light stayed on. I searched the forum and found that post about the under the seat connection, I un-connected it and put it back together, NO MORE AIRBAG LIGHT. I am sure my dealer would have socked me for $200 to $300+ to fix it. If you get the light, check the yellow connection under your seat.
  • If you know where the soft plug on this car is, please tell me. I just bought a 2000 LeSabre and would like to flush the antifreeze before I put it on the road.
  • I am having the same problem as #13143
    experiencing speedometer problems with a 05 Impala LS. The first sign of trouble showed up the first time I drove the car for over an hour. I was on the freeway, going with the flow when I looked down to see that according to the speedometer I was going 120 MPH. It then continued to do a 360 and come all the way around and back to 40 mph. The dealer said they were having a lot of problems with the speedometers. If you have had this problem and got it resolved please tell me what it was and how did you fix it. The dealer is telling me: 1) what ever it is it’s not covered under warrantee and 2) I need a new cluster but first he need to run a $85.oo test to be sure. The cluster will cost up to $600.00. That is a lot to pay for a not sure if that's it reply.
  • Don't you dare spend that kind of money at the dealership. contact this guy he will hook you up with a brand new cluster on an exchange basis for around 260.00
    Advanced Auto Electronics, Inc. - Speedometer & Instrument Cluster Repair
  • mymittiesmymitties Posts: 242
    Hey jump...

    Well, help us understand this a little better and fill in the blank here....Why no warrantee..??!! This would normally be covered..!! Are you way over miles/ time...or ??
    Frank ;)
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I'm overdue to replace the spark plugs in my 2000 Impala, and plan to install a set of LSG HALO plugs, which are supposed to increase gas mileage. (Even if they don't increase mileage due to their design, I figure I'll get some improvement just by virtue of replacing them.)

    I received the plugs in the mail today, and on the instruction sheet the first thing it says is that "the timing of your engine must be adjusted to match the thirty percent (30%) faster firing of the LSG Halo plug. The failure to adjust your engine timing will void your warranty and can cause engine misfiring that can seriously damage your engine."

    My question is, can the timing be adjusted on a 2000 Impala manually, or do I simply have to disconnect the battery and install the plugs? I found mention on another site that said if you've got an electronic ignition you just have to disconnect the battery, install the plug, and reconnect the battery...the car might run rough for 10 miles or so until it resets, but after that it should be fine.

    Can any confirm that's all I'd have to do on the Impala? Has anyone else had any experience with these plugs?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    If I can't manually adjust the timing (which I was pretty sure I couldn't), I assume the following part of their instructions apply: "Disconnect both battery wires. On vehicles equipped with EEC, when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive strategy and adjusts timing. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy."

    So it sounds like I'd remove both battery cables, then replace the plugs as usual, and then reconnect the battery. But I should expect the car to run roughly initially (which would be very different from a typical plug change, since the car should run better right away). To be safe I think I may contact LSG and see if they can give me any insight related to my specific car though. If I hear anything different from them I'll post it here. And once I get up the nerve to install them I'll let you know how it went (and if I see any improvement in gas mileage).
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    There have been a few times when something strange happens when I apply the brakes on my 2001 Camry. It occurs when I let off the brakes. There is a slight "bump sound" and the car kind of lurches forward. My guess is that something is hanging up for an instant, then the car speeds up after it releases. I wonder if it just needs cleaning, or if a brake job is needed. Any ideas ?
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    Oops ! I meants to say that this brake concern is with my 2001 Impala, not my Camry.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Might also be something fuel system related; have you replaced your fuel filter recently (or ever)? Just thinking it could be more of a stall/surge fuel-wise when you let off the brake instead of the brakes themselves. A fuel filter would be cheaper to replace than just about any brake fix I can think of. :)
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    There is a "bump" sound when this happens. I don't think a fuel problem would cause this. I have about 41,000 miles on it.
  • Mine was making a noise under braking until I lubed the ISS months ago. A-OK ever since
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Could be...especially if it's felt when turning to the right (that's when mine typically showed up). But then again, I tended to feel that WHILE braking as well as when I let off the brake.
  • jons01jons01 Posts: 59
    I had the ISS serviced recently and that problem was corrected. When this brake problem occurs there is the sound, then the car kind of lurches forward. That is why I suspect that something is hanging up, maybe the caliper. To be safe, I will take in for an inspection.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    As I recall I first replaced my brake pads around 45k miles on my 2000 Impala, so if you haven't had any brake work done previously it's likely your pads are nearing the point of needing replacement. Probably a good idea to get them checked just to be safe.
  • mike473mike473 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

    I have a 2005 Chevy Impala with 55,000 miles on. When I start it cold, or often when I step on the gas and am pulling away from a stop sign or stop light, I hear a noise that sounds like water wooshing/clunking around under the hood. Best I can describe it. My have the extened warrenty until 75K miles. However, and of course, everytime I take to the dealership they havent been able to hear it. My wife and my mom comment on it all the time when we are driving. What could this be? Maybe I can point the dealer in the right direction.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I'd guess air in your engine coolant system; if it's been changed recently that'd be my first thing to look at.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Anybody have any advice for removing the plug wires on the firewall side of a 3.8l Impala? I removed the top engine mounts and tipped the engine forward which helped access, but I can't get the old wires off those back plugs. Bought a tool for that purpose, but even if I can get it on the wire boot I don't have enough clearance to actually use the tool.

    Because the Halo plugs say you have to do them all at once, I figured I'd tackle the back side first (since this is my daily driver, and I don't want to get stranded). I'm sure I could get rough with the existing wires and force them off, but I'd rather not have to replace the wires too if I can help it.

    Any advice/tips?
  • Mike, the wooshing sound could be the coolant level being too low. Add 50/50 Dexcool mix to your overflow reservoir and see if that helps. There are also 2 air bleed screws on topp of the engine that may help get the air out of your system (I'm assuming you have the 3.4). :D
  • BTW my 2004 Impala 3.4 made the sound when I first bought it about 2 months ago. I drained and refilled the coolant since it was 3 years old and never heard the sound again. :D
  • mrialsjrmrialsjr Posts: 1
    I have never done that on an Impala but I can tell you from experience on the Buick Le Sabre with the same engine that the easist method doesn't sound that way if it's something you've never done however here it is.

    Put a floor jack with a block oif wood under the engine (not under the oil pan)

    Jack it up just to where you can tell you've put a little upwards pressure on the egine.

    Remove the bolts in the front two engine mounts.

    VERY SLOWLY, lower the jack. As you do this the engine will roll forward and down making the rear spark plugs move to an upward facing position once they get to a point where you feel you can reach them lock the jack and take care of the plugs.

    Have fun. By the way as a note on all vehicles if something is in the way of what you're getting to and its removable in the long run you're better off to remove it than work around it.
  • jlkiljlkil Posts: 18
    This car was purchased from a dealer from a fleet with about 16,000 miles on it. Has been maintained with oil changes as per manual. It has been using about 4-5 quarts of oil between changes lately. Took it to shop today and was recommended to part with it. One plug was coated in oil and the radiator is full of sludge. The car has 112,000 miles on it and obviously the engine is in for a major overhaul. Is this typical of these engines? btw, all the miles have been highway miles. also, the owner's manual recommends coolant change at 150,000 miles, but this has majorly broken down.
  • My 2001 LS has the dual temp control. The drivers side bulb on the temp slide has burnt out. Does anyone know if this is a actual bulb or a LED?
  • woody20woody20 Posts: 7
    Hi All, new member. Have a problem, my drivers side power door lock will not work using the drivers switch. It works fine with all other switches in the car and the remote. Swapped the switch out and still will not work. I have voltage from the Body Control Module (BCM) on the passenger side but none on the drivers side. Wiring diagram shows power to both front switches from the same pin on the BCM. Any ideas before I take it in.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    My passenger-side bulb went out years ago; at the time I asked around on this board and was told that the control unit is basically a sealed unit. I've never actually taken mine out to check, but from what I've been told there's no way to replace the bulb (or LED) when it goes bad.

    FWIW I think my "TRAF" light on the radio and maybe one other has gone out too. While this may be somewhat annoying, I will say having the steering wheel radio/cruise buttons light up is a huge benefit. I don't think about it as much until I drive my wife's 2003 Honda Accord at night, which has radio/cruise control buttons on the steering, but which aren't illuminated. I can't tell you how many times I've been in her car at night with the cruise on, trying to turn up the radio like I do on the Impala and finding my speed increasing instead!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    My power WINDOW switch on the driver's door went out once, but I've never had a problem with the LOCK switch. Actually I've made it a habit to lock my car with my fob to avoid locking my keys in the car, so I rarely use my switch except to unlock the doors when I have passengers in the car (if it's just me I unlock the door with the manual button next to the door handle). My window switch just required a replacement, but if you've swapped switches and that didn't work maybe you've got a short on the driver's side somewhere.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    I would try to "shoot" the wire if you can isolate it. Trouble spots would likely be where it bends like where the bundle goes between the door and the car body. I don't know if there's an easy way to open up that insulation boot or isolate the wiring but if you've gone as far as the BCM, I think you have needed skills to verify the wiring between the switch and the BCM. :) ...or had you already done that? :confuse:
  • woody20woody20 Posts: 7
    Actually I had not done it as it is in a crappy place to work. Will do though. The BCM in under the IP console on the drivers side and not much room #$$%^. Darn engineers.
    Thanks for the suggestion
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