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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala



  • Before starting the car, the temperature gauge already shows a temperature of 170 (normally 130-140). After I drive the car, the temperature increased per the gauge to around 250, right before the red zone of 250 to 260. The temperature decreases a little bit once I was on high way, but keep at the range of 230 to 240.

    Is this a gauge cluster problem or thermostat problem or some kind sensor problem? The fan is running when I turn AC on. Once turn off AC it will stop. Don't like thermostat malfunction.
  • After about 20-30 minutes drive, especially after several stop and go, the speedometer needle will drop to 20m/h and stop there. Next time start the car, it will be normal again.
    Somebody told me this is the cable which connects to speed sensor is malfunctioned. Is it possible a malfunctioned gauge cluster since my tamp gauge is also abnormal? or speed sensor?
    Thanks a lot.
  • :cry:

    I have been struggling with a problem with my 2003 Impala Sport over the last 6 weeks, and there seems to be no solution.

    It started when my impala lost the ability to spray washer fluid, it just stopped, and the whole arm unit with the wiper controls that sticks out of the steering column was the culprit, so that whole unit was replaced. $800.00 later, I could spray washer fluid. I went to pick my car up from the dealer, and the battery was completely dead. After a boost I was on my way home. This was Friday, and on Monday my battery was dead again.

    I took the car back to the dealer, and they put a new battery in, and worked fine for almost a week, and then it died. They replaced it with another one, and another week later, died again. I made an 'x' on the batteries, so knew that they were replacing them for sure.

    I decided to take the car to another dealer, and they had it for days, saying in the end that no problems were found with anything like alternator, starter, trickle power draw, and the battery itself. Eventually, when the battery had died again, they declared the faulty battery was the cause. cry. So they put another battery in, and I went home (40 minutes north) and 2 days later (yesterday) it was dead again.

    Initially, the dealer assumed it was my satellite receiver, but that is never plugged in overnight, only when I am in the car. That was ruled out after leaving it at the dealer for the weekend after they put their new battery in (all batteries have been delco), and was dead in their lot over the weekend.

    SO, here is my conclusion, which I mentioned to the dealer:

    The replacement of the Wiper control arm is the cause of the subsequent power problems. Somehow. Not sure how, but could it be faulty? Or put in wrong? A short maybe? Could it be something else completely?

    Although the dealer agreed this could be an issue, they just keep replacing batteries, and I am getting very frustrated.

    If anyone here has any thoughts, would appreciate it. I am planning on just going to another dealer, and asking them to go right to where I believe the problem is, and paying them to check the part and reinstall it. I really don't know what to do, but I commute 40 mins to work, and having a constantly dead car is causing me and my wife a lot of headaches.

  • jayco1jayco1 Posts: 1
    Hi I also have a 03 ls impala and having dead battery problems and occasionally the security light comes on .I installed a new battery but to no avail I have 55,ooo miles on it . Did you find the problem? Im guessing something is staying powered up when the car is off any ideas ??

    thanks jay
  • bbuck11bbuck11 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 impala on which I've replaced the ignition switch, battery, and alternator in the pat 8 months. I have had the same no crank, wait 20 minutes situation in the past and it did solve the immediate problem but it recurred monthly. I replaced the switch to eliminated the problem but I've had the security light on for several weeks and today it was totally dead. The key is new. Do you have any idea, in light of what I've already done, how to reset the security light? I took it to my mechanic recently for the door lock system which had stopped working and he was unable to reset the computer to turn off the security lock down system.
  • Since I originally posted my original message regarding this issue of the secuirty light, and car being dead almost three years ago, on occassion the car would just fail to start, nothing, dead. I learned that my problem was due to the BCM failing. I had the BCM replaced (expensive) and never again did this issue ever happen again.

    If your car fails to start, no power, just turn the igintion key to accessory and leave it this way for ten minutes. You will notice that the security light will blink. This will stop in ten minutes. Once it stops blinking, turn the key to off, and try to start the car. It should start. Good luck...
  • metalgod27metalgod27 Posts: 1
    This is definitely a problem. I've had the same thing for about 6 months now - I have an '03 with 85,000 miles on it. Everything I've read says nobody knows exactly what's wrong. I've seen quite a few posts about this topic. Mine vibrates slightly at most speeds, but most noticeably at moderate highway speeds. It tapers off again once you get close to 80mph. Also, if I'm going slow (15 - 30mph) and turn the wheel but keep my grip loose, the wheel doesn't move smoothly back to center - it moves back in semi-jerky increments.
    I wondered if it was a bad strut, tie rod ends, steering box or assist, or an out-of-round tire, but none of these seems like it covers all the things I'm noticing. On occasion it almost feels like wheel hop when I first start driving. I have not had it looked at b/c I don't want to have all the things looked at / replaced that you did. I'm hoping I find a decent answer to take to the dealer and save myself alot of money and trouble. Keep looking! Somebody has to know what causes this.
  • thomasjwthomasjw Posts: 2
    Same thing happened to mine,after about a month or 2 the speedometer started reading whatever it wanted. took to dealer and was told it is caused by the dash power cluster, and would cost about 400.00 to replace.the 2005 impala is getting to be well known for this issue.If you call chevy hotline they will tell you to: go to a dealer or certified chevy shop and have a scan done.then chevy will call you back to tell you if they will help with the cost of the part.(by the way they will not help).im dealing with all this now.Filed a complaint with the BBB and FHTSA.Hoping to get a recall started since this is a safety issue.Hope this helped.
  • thomasjwthomasjw Posts: 2
    Mine is doing same thing I took it to a dealer and was told it is caused by the dash power cluster, and would cost about 400.00 to replace. the 2005 impala is getting to be well known for this issue. If you call chevy hotline they will tell you to: go to a dealer or certified chevy shop and have a scan done. then chevy will call you back to tell you if they will help with the cost of the part.(by the way they will not help).im dealing with all this now. Filed a complaint with the BBB and FHTSA. Hoping to get a recall started since this is a safety issue. Hope this helped.
  • matteo2matteo2 Posts: 17
    I have 2001 base impala, I need to replace the coolant level sensor. What are the steps to replace this? I have the sensor and know where it is.
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 78
    If any Impala owners had to pay to have the lower intake manifold gasket replaced you may be entitled to payment from GM from a class action lawsuit regarding DEXCOOL.

    Visit this website for more info:

    My 2002 Impala was the biggest Lemon that I ever purchased!

    These are some of the typcial Impala Problems to look out for:
    1) Defective Manifold Gaskets ($1200)
    2) BCM (Body Control Module) problems (400-500 dollar repair)
    3) Passlock Problems. ($425)
    4) Steering Shaft noise
    5) Catylitic Converters defective (Recalled)
    6) Defective combination switch (High/low beam and turnsignals) $650

    Does anyone really want to buy a Chevy anymore? NOT ME!!
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • ejohns321ejohns321 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same issue with my 2005. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help. Very sporadic speedometer and thermometer functionality. I don't think it should cost so much to fix what seems to me to be a recall type of issue. :mad:
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    A few weeks ago I have noticed a slight clunking/popping noise while accelerating from a stand-still while the wheel is turned, such as when turning onto the road from a drivway... It doesn't seem to affect the steering, nor can it really be "felt". If one were deaf, they might never hear it. I havn't been too concerned about it but want to know what it might be and if there is a possible remedy for it that doesn't involve numerous trips to the shop.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    If you feel it primarily when turning to the right and when you have your foot on the brake pedal (feeling the clunk in the wheel and the brake pedal) odds are it's the intermediate steering shaft. Do a search for "ISS" here and see if the other related posts match your symptoms. As far as I know there haven't been any accidents/injuries as a result of the ISS problem, but it was/is pretty widespread among GM products, and is certainly annoying.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    ya - now that I think about it, it is when I turn right. I remember reading numerous posts on this, but none that mentioned complete and utter failure of the steering system. Mostly it was just a noise issue. I think I also read some posts of people being able to lube the shaft and make the noise go away for a bit as well. I'll have to do some research and find out. Thnks for the info.
  • paul1145paul1145 Posts: 1
    Hi and thanks in advance for reading this. I really need to remove the rear seat from my 2005 Impala to transport some valuable cargo. I've tried to lift it from the front of the seat, I've tried to lift from the back, where the back rest and rear seat cushion come together, no luck. Are there bolts that need to be removed before I can accomplish this?

    Thank you,
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I amy be late to the party, but actually, you do have a rev limiter. My 04 has it and while it doesn't have a tach, it does cut out if I rev it too high while in park... to keep people from reving it past it's redline. Why would you want to rev the motor in park anyway??
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I've got an '04 that I have had for almost 2 years now. I have gotten as high as about 33 MG on the highway, but as low as 19 in the city. I have the 3.4 motor, but no ABS, but I haven't needed it and the times I have braked hard and they were "panic" stops it did well and stopped straight and true. I have had no issues with it. Just basic oil changes thus far. I would say it's a good car. Try to find an LS - it has alloy wheels and the larger 3.8 motor which from my research seems to be a little more durable. It will also have ABS and traction control. I wish I had bought the used 20K 04 LS instead of the 04 brand new base.... The 3.4 has ample power, but the 3.8 has just enough more to give it an extra "kick".
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I would say go for the Imp. I currently own an 04 Impala and had test driven a Camry. The Impala is bigger, will get the same MPG in my opinion and will last just as long, given maintainence is performed as the Camry. It looks like the Impala will cost you less to aquire, in my opinion it will cost about the same to maintain, i.e., tires, brakes, oil changes etc. I don't see why the Impala shouldn't last you the 70-80K more miles you are looking to get out of it.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I am having a horn issue on my car. We bought the car new in Oct of 04. Right after we bought it I noticed the horn would cut in and out with the dual notes. One time it would seem to be dual, the next time it would be only a single. Since it was intermittent and only the horn I didn't really worry about it.

    Finally though the low not gave out alltogether. Since it is still under warranty I took it into the dealer to have them replace the low note. It worked fine for a couple of weeks, but now the horn is starting to act up again, only this time the sound is a strained sound - kind of like a childs toy that is running out of battery juice. Except the horn sounds this way whether the car is running or not.

    Normally I wouldn't really worry about it, since it really isn't a major issue and it has been the only issue with the car. But the sound is really pitifull and it doesn't produce the volume that I would want should the horn ever be needed. Also did I mention the sound it pitifull - like a vehicle pleading and gasping on its last breath :sick:

    So my question is, I know it is under warranty and I can get it fixed no problem, but could there be something withing the wiring of the horn that could be causing it to go bad? My fear is that I'll take it in, they'll fix it and it'll last just long enough past the warranty period and then it'll get all cow sick on me again and I'll have to foot the bill.

    This has been the only issue aside from a large unsightly gap between the top of the dash and the front of the dash that I should have caught before we even bought the car. The vehicle has been great. It gets great mileage, is comfortable, has decent power even with the 3.4 motor.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I know this is a reply to a late message but I experienced the same thing a few days ago. When the trunk is popped, it barley pops enough that it is easy to miss and not notice while getting into the vehicle. The gas struts will also keep it from popping up while driving.

    And so I was going down the road when I heard a chime and noticed the trunk ajar warning light. The the car went over a slight bump and the light instantly went away. A little ways further the same thing happened and then as the car would hit a bump or the trunk would settle slightly triggering the sensor, the light would go away. I drove the rest of the way home and sure enough, the trunk lid was popped. This was on an 04 Impala
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    assuming you bought the car new in 04 it would still be under warranty until nov of 07 unless you are past the 36K mile mark....

    If it is still under warranty, take it to the dealership to have it fixed. They shoudn't give you any hassel. If it's not under warranty, I don't know what the cost would be, but it shouldn't be outrageous.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    The Battery Install fairly simple. You are correct in that the cross support bar must be removed, but it's only a couple of bolts and it moves out of the way. Than an 8 MM wrench or socket (I recomend a inexpensive double sided ratchet wrench specially designed for side GM battery posts).

    You can get a good battery from Wal-mart (as long as it is Johnson Controls and not an Exxide), or any other place like Autozone or Checker. Some places will even install for you at no cost, like Walmart. You can get a battery from Wal-mart for about $40 with no installation charge.

    Or you can do it yourself. It really is only a 10 minute job given that there is no major corrosion to clean or terminals that need to be replaced.

    To remove the battery, undo the bolts holding the crossmember support over the battery which I believe are 13 MM. Move that up out of the way. Than remove the terminals negative side (black) first with the 8 MM wrench or socket. Like I mentioned before there is a specialized battery tool that is inexpensive that works well for this. You can probably find it next to the battery display where there is also new terminals and cables and such.

    There is a 13 MM bolt holding the battery to the battery tray down on the back side of the battery that also must be loosened. A long extension works for this. After those are loose, the batter lifts out. Depending on how corroded or how much acid or how safe you feel you want to be, a pair of gloves might be recomended for this part so that you don't get battery acid on your hands.

    Install is the reverse of removal-mounting bolt, terminals and then the crossmember support. Before connecting the terminals clean them with a little bit of baking soda mixed with water and an old toothbrush. Install the positive (red) first and then the negative and you should be good to go although you will have to reset your radio presets and the clock. You may also have to reprogram your door locks (if you have such a feature) and how they operate?? Not sure as I don't remember when I removed the battery in my car a while back.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    At Walmart you for your needs, you can get all the tools you need for probaly less than the $36 install charge and then you have the tools to keep in your car for emergencies or for other uses.

    If you decide to go this route, I would recomend a 3/8 drive ratchet with extension and a metric socket set. Most bolts on your car will be metric. I would also recomend a metric/standard combo wrench set as well. These will probably run close to the $36?? If you get the Stanley brand. They make less expensive sets, but the Stanley is higher quality. You might even find a combo set that has both sockets and wrenches in both standard and metric for a good price. I don't know; it's been a while since I have looked.

    So all told, you might end up spending as much getting the tools to do the job as you would paying someone (or you can have Wal-mart do it at no charge), but then you wouldn't get to experience the hands on experience. Also by spending the money on the tools, you have something to show for it and also now you have them so the next time a small problem comes around, you just might be able to take care of it yourself... and save even more money because now those tools will pay for themselves.

    FWIW - I just finished a brake job today that by the time I was done cost me about $140. I ended up having to buy not only new pads, but new rotors as well. What should have been a 17 dollar job (the cost of the pads), ended up being $140 because of the rotors. It would have been even more if I had taken it in to a shop. The only "tools" I had to buy was grease for the wheel bearings and brake fluid. All the tools I needed I already had. This marks the upteenth brake job I have done on my vehicles and I have always used the same tools which may have cost me all told a total of $20.

    Anyway, I don't know why I shared that story, but I guess I did because it goes to show that you can save a lot by doing a lot of things yourself - like changing a battery or a brake job, even if you have to buy the tools first....

    Or maybe it's just late and I have no idea what I am talking about and I should just go to bed. :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    glad you got it done.... :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I would venture to say that it could be the battery. Although I had thought that Interstate batteries were pretty good and reliable. Although that might depend on the size and what it's being used for. I personally feel that a battery should go for at least 4 or 5 years without a problem and then some.

    Here is what I would do. Since it seems that the Interstate is not lasting as long as you think it should, I would head to Autozone and get the 3 year battery. From the research that I have done, it is a Johnson Controls battery which is one of the best batteries you can get. While at Autozone, I would have them check your charging system. They should be able to do this. They might even install the battery for you. That way you can determine if there is a problem in the charging system that could be leading to premature battery failure. They might can also check to see if there is a leak in the system that drains the battery while the vehicle is off. This may or may not be noticeable if the car is driven frequently. But if you have ever noticed a slight drag on the starter after the car has sat several hours, it could be possible that there is a slight draw on the battery once the car is shut off and that can also lead to premature battery failure.

    But I think it is battery related and not vehicle related, given the time frames you mentioned. Usually a vehicle related problem that kills batteries rears it's ugly head after only a couple of months and not a couple of years.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I think that you should do well with the Duralast battery. A previous poster stated that Interstates didn't fair well in Consumer tests and the Duralast is a Johnson Controls battery which is one of the best batteries that you can buy. Plus with the 3 year free replacement, if it does go bad within 3 years, no worries on a pro-rated charge. Just a new battery and you are good to go.....
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I would wager that the notice is an automaticly generated notice that tells the dealership when a certain "inspection" may be needed based on the year of the car. Or it could be tied to the Vin # or somehow the computer figures out based on the average driver where a car might be at in in life and generates a notice to the dealer. The dealer then sends out a card or could make a phone call to let the owner know that thier car might possibly be "in need" of an inspection.

    I get those notices all the time for oil changes, mileage maintenance, and most recently for warranty extension coverage since my vehicle "might" be coming up on an expired factory warranty.

    Since I do all my own maintenance and keep pretty good track of what needs to be done, I just disregard these notices. Most likely, your "GM Certified" Impala recieved whatever services required by GM to be considered "Certified". The dealer may or may not recognize the notice as belonging to a car they just sold off thier certified lot and just mass mailed what ever notices came through the pipeline that month.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    You cannot adjust the timing manually the Impala, much less any newer car. Most newer cars these days are all electronically controlled and therefore the computer does all the work. Which would make me think that what you mentioned about disconnecting the battery and reconnecting makes a little sense but I don't know if the car's computer will actually make a 30% timing adjustment on it's own? I have never heard of that, but then again, I am not a gear head so what do I know?

    Have you tired calling this LSG company and asking what they recomend? It might require taking it to a mechaninc that has the ability to plug into the car's computer and "manually" adjust the timing?
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