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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala



  • I've been detecting a musty or dusty odor when I turn the AC off and the fan on, so I bought a new cabin air filter for my 2000 Impala. But for the life of me I can't find where it installs. I've looked behind the glove box, under the dash on both sides and even inside the engine compartment, but I can't find one. I was visiting another site that said on some models there is none. How can I determine whether mine even has one on my car, and if so, where it is located? :confuse:
  • tommy42tommy42 Posts: 70
    My 2001 did not have but I put one in. Do a search for impala hq. In the how to section it tell you how to change it.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    You get to it from under the hood, on the passenger side; it's not really that complicated to do, but hard to explain...but the info on impalahq if I remember correctly give you step-by-step instructions that should be easy to follow. Even if your car didn't come with a filter, one can be installed (my 2000 didn't have one originally, but I put one in).
  • I believe the "Cabin" air filter was only offered as an option on the Impala LS models.
    My 2002 Impala does not have a "Cabin" air filter.
    I am not sure how difficult it is to retrofit the cabin air filter into the non-equipted Impalas.

  • The following link from the Wix Filter website indicates how to replace the cabin air filter. Click on the web link and go to section 7 of the brochure:

  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    That's pretty much the process; it doesn't seem intuitive to be going at things from under the hood, but once you figure it out it's really easy. And even if you have a base model, all the duct work and such is there so all you have to do is buy the filter and slip it in.
  • I took care of it during lunch yesterday. It only took me about 10 minutes from start to finish. I appreciate all the help. Thanks.
  • I am having the same problem, the antifreeze is coming from the radiator cap and I would guess that is where yours is coming from also. I have replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap but it is still coming from the vent holes on the cap. I do not see it but I have traced the leakage to the cap and I have antifreeze in the same areas that you have. I have noticed that the cooling fans don't run when the ignition is shut off, I thought they were on a thermostat and would run after the car was shut off if needed. I think it over flows after it is shut off as I have the antifreeze on the driveway. Does anyone have any answers to our problem or is there something else that I need to report to help solve this issue.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    Not sure -- I have been keeping a pretty diligent eye on it and I haven't seen a repeat of what I was seeing a few weeks ago. A couple of time it leaked quite a bit, then a not so much and now I am not seeing anything. Coolant levels are still full. So not sure what it is and so for now I am just watching it real close.
  • The front left Hub Bearing on my 2000 Impala LS(3.8L), 91,280k mi., was bad, when the car was lifted you could shake the crap out of the wheel. Got it replaced and the car runs smooth. HOWEVER, now TRAC(Traction) turns off as soon as the car is turned on, the ABS light comes on and System Message: Service Traction System. I can't turn on Traction at all. If the light isn't there as soon the car is turned on, the light turns on as SOON as the car starts to move about an inch. The left Hub bearing just got replaced. It can't be a faulty part from the factory... I'm hoping. And SOMETIMES it's intermittent. I can't shoot the hub bearing itself(continuity[ohms]), it just shoots open(overload, infinite resistance) and I shot the wires back to the Electronic Brake control Module. The wires for the front left and right splice as one assembly back and the rear left and right HUBs splice as one assembly as well. The rear wires shoot good and the front ones shoot good. HAYNES manual has the schematics but they're pretty vague. So I'm asking for some other means of troubleshooting this problem. I'm not taking it to the dealer so they can make me bend over to pay an arm and a leg for this. SOMEONE HELP. FYI, before the Front, Left Hub bearing got replaced, I had the ABS light. SOMEONE HELP, losing my hair over this!!!
  • I had a similar experience where my ABS & Traction Control System shut down while driving. I own a 2001 LS. While driving on a sunny beautiful day, dry road, bells and whistles, Service Traction Control System, ABS light lit, Traction System shut down and could'nt be restarted. I went into a parking lot and restated the car. Doing this seemed to reset the problem and all was fine for a few miles when it happened again.

    I took the car to Mr Goodwrench. He found a bad wire harness going into the front right tire hub. The tips on the harness were a color green. He checked all the other hubs and all were fine with those conections. He replaced the wire harness on that wire, and afterwards all was fine. Check your harness tips. You might have a little corrosion. Goodluck.
  • i was wondering if you know the 7 wire diagram.
  • The whelen UHF2150B is the only type that wont disconnect your DRL. If you order it from Galls or Streichers, they will send it with a one sheet wiring guide to use it on non police model of impala. Basically shows your the 7 wires you need to splice to replicate what the quick connect on the police model would normally provide. It works great.

    Anyone know where to find this Diagram?
  • It's easy to change the cabin filter. It's locate passenger side under hook and cowl, just open the hook from passenger side unscrew the plastic screw at windshield wiper but don't take off the wiper just take of one side of plastic piece, you will see it right there. Click the link below you will know it well
  • Just curious if you went back to check the bad wire harness. I was just recently out of town and was stuck and had to pay out the "wazzu" to the same problem you just described. However; after I had new brakes, the right front bearing replaced plus a new caliber, My Service Traction System is still on, along with my TRAC off and my ABS light. Driving me crazy. After I seen the reply from Fathertyricius regarding the bad wire harness, I was curious if you had checked it out before I take mine back in to have it checked out again. With my cost already, I'm at ends at paying out.
  • shonnydshonnyd Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased a Chevy 00 Impala LS Automatic. I was driving on the interstate when my car suddenly wouldnt accelerate. It slowly died down. Then i pulled over to the shoulder to cut my car off. I restarted it put it in gear and it wouldnt move. I know absolutely nothing about cars, but it was driving perfectly then it just stopped. if any one could help me and tell me what they think it may be...i would so gladly appreciate it....thanks!!!
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 78
    Could be a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump.

    If it restarted and the engine ran and you didn't move, it could be a transmission problem.
  • Your problem is the catalytic converter. My 01 LS did the same thing. My car was still in warranty when it happened, but I read that GM is honoring replacement of the catalytic converter if the car is under 120,000 miles. Once the catalytic converter was replaced, the car drove like brand new. Call GM for further info. Goodluck.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I have a 2004 3.4L Impala with about 40K miles. My wife has commented that sometimes it has been hard to start. She says it will take several cranks for it to finally turn over and she was wondering if this is normal. I say this because I don't drive the car on a regular basis and I haven't really noticed anything "unusual". However, it does take a couple more cranks than my other vehicles to start and there have been occasions that it has taken several cranks 6-7 before it starts. My other vehicles start on the first or second crank but they are totally different motors and so I have have just chalked it up to this motor taking a few cranks to start. Normal is 3-4 cranks which I don't think is too out of line?

    So my question is this? Is it normal for the 3.4L motor to take several cranks to turn over. What would cause it take several more cranks to start, like the 6-7 that my wife has mentioned?
  • rbraserbrase Posts: 9
    My 04 impala has cut out or hesitated on me (twice in the last 2 weeks) while driving down the highway at approx 70mph. It feels like I am running out of gas and then it catches and starts running without any issues. Someone told me that it could also be the fuel filter on the rail or the power train control module.
    Does anyone know how to replace a fuel pump? Do i need to drop the gas tank?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    To replace the fuel pump you will have to drop the gas tank. But I don't think your issue is a fuel pump. More likely it is a filter. A pump either works or it doesn't, at least in my experience. One day it works, the next it's gone. But it won't cause the hesitation you are experiencing, however a clogged fuel filter will. That is where I would start.
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 78
    If you have over 70,000 miles and you never changed your fuel filter, it may be time to replace it! Especially if you are in the habit of driving until the low fuel light comes on.

    If you have a habit of running the tank until its almost empty, all the dirt and residue gets sucked into the fuel filter causing it to clog.

    I would start by replacing the fuel filter. If that doesn't fix the problem, than you may have a "electronic" problem with a sensor or computer.

    Also, in an earlier post someone mentioned that some Impala's have defective catylitic converters. If your cat converter is clogged that would cause loss of power and cut outs.
  • edl79edl79 Posts: 14
    I have a different engine but had a similar problem with extended cranking and for me it was the crank position sensor.
    We have 2 Impalas with the 3.8L. The 2001 now has 103k and the 2004 has 120k.
    In Sep-06 at 92k the 2001 suddenly started cranking longer to start. This car had always started on 1 crank. The problem started 1 week before my 6yr/100k extended warranty expired.
    Dealer replaced fuel pump and ignition module under the warranty but that didn't fix it and they couldn't duplicate the problem and of course no codes.

    Then it started stalling out intermittenly too, but it always restarted. My wife only does local low-speed driving and it seemed to stall out when it was cold, like the first drive of the early morning, after going a few miles.
    Both problems occurred randomly for 2 months and I spent many hours searching the net for a most likely cause.
    Finally it stalled after going 100 feet - her first start after work- and wouldn't restart. Towed to the dealer and left it there for several days for them to try to duplicate the problem.

    I had seen in my research that the CPS could be the problem but the service mngr (who was a very good) said the flow charts don't point to the CPS for the 2 problems when combined.
    I said to replace it as a last try because we didn't have a drivable car anyway.
    End of story is they replaced it at no charge, and the car's been fine for 2.5 years. I got lucky - it could have been an intermittent electrical problem.

    Repair history for the 2 cars:
    2001 - upper intake coolant leak and cat converter (Chevy warranty), thermostat, fuel pressure regular, one rear ABS sensor, one front wheel bearing assembly, blower resister, fuel gauge sensor and the crank position sensor.
    2004 - I drive this one 500 miles a week - one oxygen sensor, a thermostat, one front wheel bearing assembly, and a slow leaking lower trans coolant line.

    Overall, not bad for 223k total, and if the CPS had been diagnosed quickly, no major problem issues. They also get serviced - fluids, filters.
    The cars look good, still feel solid and always plenty of power.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I'll keep my eye on the starting issue. So far it has always been reliable and never left us stranded. Then again, it's only got 40K on it. It is lucky to see a 10K a year. However it is only the the 3.4 How I wish I would have bought that gorgeous used 3.8 LS Impala instead of my NEW base Impala, but what's done is done. It's still been a good car.
  • oberstovoberstov Posts: 2
    Had the same problems. Just replace or charge your battery and all will work)))
  • oberstovoberstov Posts: 2
    Had the same problems. Just replace or charge your battery and all will work)))
  • dearmoredearmore Posts: 1
    what is the DIC? I am having probs with cruise, ac, blower, and headlight switch all seeming to be connected together. Mike
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    The DIC is the Driver Information Center. It is what displays all the info such as your check engine light, idiot light for the oil, battery, security and what not. It is the box in the right hand instrument bezel at the bottom. It is square and pixelated to change to the different icons to depict what ever needs to be depicted.

    Not sure what would be causing your problem, but I don't think it has anything to do with the DIC?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    time for the once a year oil change on the Imp... Since it rarely sees over 10K a year (it's a 2004-bought in October of '04 and only has 42K on it), I run Mobile1 and change it once a year. It was that time today. The only caveat?? Took me longer to change the air filter than it did to change to oil....

    oh ya - I also flushed out the coolant too.
  • bensettebensette Posts: 3
    Bought a used 2003 Impala 3.8L in March 2009. Service Traction System light goes on often, with ABS light and Trac light. Hub sensor wires are perfect-no oxidation. I ignore it and it does not affect driving. Wont take it to a GM dealer to pay $$$ then have the same problem 2 weeks later, like so many blogs describe. Cant find a GM Tech Service Bullitin on this - must be one.
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