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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If I understood you correctly, the bulb lights when removed and connected to 12VDC supply separately.
    With the doors open, and the bulb removed, your meter shows 12V across the two terminals of the bulb socket.

    If that's the case, then the only possibilities I see are a bad connection btwn bulb and socket or you have a bad connection elsewhere that is causing a high resistance.

    Bad connection elsewhere-
    The resistance is "transparent" when there is no or little current flow. If the meter has a high impedance (which all decent instruments do), then it doesn't draw much current. The voltage drop across a high resistance (loose or corroded) connection is proportional to current flow, so low current, low voltage drop, resulting in you seeing the voltage at the terminals of the socket. However, when the bulb is in place, the current across the bad connection causes a voltage drop so large that the total current flow is too low to illuminate the bulb.

    Check the ground connection at the doorswitches. Do you have the same problem regardless of which door you open, or if you open all of them at the same time? If only one door fails to illuminate the bulb, that switch may be bad or have a bad connection to ground. (My old Suzuki had issues w/ the door switches.) If all the doors have the problem, but the bulb glows some when all doors are open at the same time, it could be that all the switches are corroded or have bad grounds. Remove the bulb from the lamp, remove a door switch. Reinstall the bulb. Now ground the wire from the door switch to a good metal ground on your truck. If the bulb lights, the switch or its ground is the trouble. If not, then it's either the wiring from the switch to the socket, or from the socket to the 12V supply that has a loose or corroded connection.

    Good hunting-
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    I think that the axle wrap thunk problem is one that not going away and there will have to be alot of screaming from owners in order for Toyota to do a recall or TSB the problem,if what your saying is correct that its a machining problem then they will have redesign and remanufactor new drivelines for thousands of vehicles and I personally dont see that happening it would cost millions. I have a 2004 Tacoma and have experienced the Thunk or axle wrap problem If Toyota has a remedy to fix the problem for me that would be fantastic but if not its something I can live with thats not going drive me over the edge with frustration. I wonder what would happen if you grease the rear driveline with a superior fully synthetic grease such as Amsoil product,they have superior wear and heat properties as opposed to conventional greases, I use Valvoline semi-synthetic and my Thunk isnt as pronounced as some peoples that have posted here. :D
  • Went to the dealer again today as my "exhaust noise" has significantly increased over the last month. The normal exhaust noise is no longer considered normal as the dealership has now informed me that Toyota has posted a bulliten and they will replace the manifolds to fix the problem. Anyone experiencing the same "normal exhaust noise" check with your dealer asap. From what understand, there are alot of us out there.
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    Mine is a 2006 4cyl with a terrible exhaust noise. I've been told by the Toyota executive office that the fuel line bracket is causing the noise and newly redesinged one will be available shortly.
  • My tacoma has high mileage around 95,000. I have a TRD super charger installed. If I am driving on the freeway at 65 mph and go into an incline with out the truck down shifting the motor will ping like crazy. :( Now I run high octane fuel and have flushed the injectors out with the injector cleaner stuff that you poor into the gas. I have checked the spark plugs and they are fine. I'm thinking it could be caused from the electrical part of the computer, or the co2 sensor. If any one can respond at all it would be appreciated.
  • clayyclayy Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Tacoma, 4 door, 4wd, V6, auto. ... It has 5700 miles on it and is at the dealer for the 3rd time for the same tap in the motor as described in previous messages ... under acceleration, worse at 1200-1500 rpm, or when under load ... they first told me nothing was wrong (at 500 miles) and to bring it back if it got worse. It got worse and virtually unbearable progressively to 5700 miles. They replaced both exhaust manifolds under a Technical Service Bulletin and the problem persists. The dealer I bought it from has had it for about 10 days now and is waiting for the "technical guy from Toyota" to come look at it. I thought it was an isolated incident until now ...
  • Yes, I too have a same annoying rattle by the glove box. Took it to the dealer 10 times. Most of the time they returned it to me claiming they didn't hear anything wrong. I have made several rides with techs in the vehicle to reproduce noise. Are these people deaf or something? They act like I'm making this up!!! Some techs do admit hearing it but have done little to fix it. After two years and 30K miles, I don't know what to do - except buy a different brand of truck. Sigh...
  • jasonhjasonh Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Tacoma 2.7L. When driving typically at highway speeds for no reason the truck sometimes cuts out or feels like a miss. It seems to happen in most gears but is most noticeable in 3rd, 4th, 5th. What could this be?
  • koko2koko2 Posts: 1
    Thanks for the info on the exhaust noise.
    I have a 2006 with engine tap (another posting said Toyo is coming out with fix for fuel bracket??) and it is also bottoming out on the rear (leaf springs crashing hard on the axle when going over a dip in a road) usually more noticable with 2 or more persons. Does not need any additional weight in the truck. Gives you a hard jolt in your back and is very uncomfortable. I've been to the dealer 3 times for this. Mechanic & Customer service mgr both felt the jolt and now calling regional manager to the store to meet with me & discuss issue.
    What happened to Toyota quality?
    I read about same problem someone else had in a 2001 Tacoma.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I don't think the quality has changed for the worse in the last 40 years. What has changed is that we have an internet where we can go see someone that has a possible problem with their vehicle, and pretty soon everyone that has second thoughts about spending 20K+ on a vehicle also has that problem. It used to be that if you wanted to know about a vehicle, you would ask someone that was driving one. Now, many go to sites like this to read comments from people that have never even sat in the vehicle they are bad-mouthing. I guess I would talk smack about Toyota if I found out I could get a better Nissan for considerably less or if I bought a Nissan and found that the Toy is much better. I think both are worth what you pay myself. Maybe not worth the cost, but worth more than a comparable domestic.
  • I own an 01 Tacoma and have been experiencing loud "thuds" when it shifted from 3rd to overdrive. The local Toyota dealer attributed it to dry splines and relubed them. Kept asking if it could be a tranny prob but they kept saying it was the splines. Prob kept coming back and trans started making noises. To make a long story short, my warranty expired and trans died a couple months later.

    Two questions here, first, do you guys think I have recourse with the dealer? And secondly, do any of you know about the "thuds" being related to a trans problem? I'm familiar with the standstill dry spline thud, but a mechanic told me that the high speed one is not caused by dry splines. Any info that could help me here would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance.

  • dalidali Posts: 1
    My 2000 Tacoma is trembling on the front-end when I accelerate to 60-65 mph. I am going to the dealer today. I am hoping it is not the Tran although when I am going uphill the shift moves around quite a bit and the truck feels like it is pulling a heavy load. I have always taken care of my truck and done the required check ups and maintenance - I even did an alighnment and bought two new tires recently oh, and replaced a tie-rod...just wondering if anyone has any ideas or has been through this.
  • pheonix2pheonix2 Posts: 12
    Crawl under the truck and sight along the driveline, it must be straight! There seems to be some problem for Toyota (especially ones made in the latter months of 05)to get the driveline running dead strait. The carrier bearing mounting holes do not allow this centre part of the driveline to run perfectly strait. This will change the whole balancing dynamics of the driveshaft, ie vibration!
  • mnkyboymnkyboy Posts: 108
    For about a month now, ive been having problems when pushing the
    clutch in. Sometimes it would get "stuck" and not come back up when I
    release it. Ive never worked on a clutch system before, but from what
    ive read it could be the slave and/or master cylinder.

    If it is the Slave or Master cylinder, should i just replace both anyway? Any particular brand? AJUSA.COM carrys ASCO/Aisin and PBR. ASCO/Aisin is about 25% more in price.

    I would like to hear from other Tacoma owners to see what they think
    it is. Any ideas?

    1996 Toyota Tacoma Ext Cab
    98k miles
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Flush the system out first with clean fluid before you replace anything. Filthy goopy fluid can sometimes cause this symptom.
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    Go buy a Frontier thats the best truck out there,trade the Taco in before you lose more resale value. Didnt you research the vehicle before you spent $29000.00?
  • ihscout54ihscout54 Posts: 1
    A warning to you guys. I resurched and resurched befor I made my desision, and i bought my new Frontier 4 months ago, and without a doubt its the worst vehicle ive ever owned, worse than my Ranger.
    At 3400 miles:
    Engine ticks pretty loud (dealer claimes its normal)
    Engine whines while cold, theres a tsb for this but i cannot get this fixed
    Front end knocks going over large bumps, cant get it fixed either.
    Rear end chatters and clunks at low speeds (again dealer claims its normal)
    I have trouble shifting out of second gear from time to time (dealer cannot confirm)
    My steering wheel does not center and the truck has a slight pull to the right
    A pulley was left loose and my serp belt slipped off at 1500 miles
    i was missing a couple screws in the front bumper trim, and am still missing a screw in my tailgate.
    Theyve replaced my leaf springs
    repaired my dome lamp
    and fixed my parking break
    9 trips to the dealer in 4 months the service is terrible and ive tried all 3 local nissan dealers and they are all the same. About all they do is add dents to my truck.
    I know people who are very happy with their nissans but I am not. Aluminuim engines plastic valve covers and intakes, the thinnest metal ive ever seen, cheap easy to scratch interior plastic that already showing signs of fading, and paint thats not clear coated is what makes the new frontier.
    It dont matter what you buy cause these auto makers dont care about us anymore, every year the materials get worse the guys building them get dumber and the customer service gets harder to deal with.
    Screw the gas prices, im buying another old beeter and ill just fix it my self and save the payment.
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    You need to talk with Moparbad he says the Fronty is the best truck for the best price out there,even though its equiped with what plastic valve covers? Moparbad where are you I know your out there somewhere would you please comment on this gentlemans post please!
  • mrcoffee32mrcoffee32 Posts: 1
    Hi I have the same problem. Did you find a fix? Please let me know. Thanks Brian
  • When I make a right hand turn, there is a sound that sounds like a seal or sealion. Any ideas what it could be?
  • spicytacospicytaco Posts: 1
    My headlights don't turn off. They turned off when I dettached the battery, stayed off when I reattached the battery. Then I turned the lights on and they wouldn't turn off.

    It's just the lights that point straight forward, not the front lights that you can see from the side.

    This is a new problem. It's rainy, I wonder if water is shorting somewhere.

    We've had problems starting the truck for awhile, and wondered if there was a power drain somewhere (we replaced the battery and alternator, which we thought fixed that problem).
  • huladickhuladick Posts: 1
    I recently had my timing belt changed by a local shop.
    Since the change, on occasion, the truck turns over very slow when cold. Similar to what an engine would do if the distributor was misaligned. Sometimes it turns over and starts normal.

    It runs great and doesn't seem to do this when warmed up.
    I have cleaned the battery terminals and replaced the battery. Still happens only on occasion.

    The shop said the three timing marks are aligned and probably isn't a belt change problem.

    I have owned this truck for over 5 years and it never did this until the belt was changed. Is there anything else I should check ?
  • two34two34 Posts: 2
    maybe you can help - have an intermittent problem on a 97 tacoma 4 cyl ext cab. occaisionaly [maybe once in a month/ 2 months ] the engine will crank , start , run roughly , then stall . restart rough running depressing gas pedal makes immediate stall . will idle roughly - feels like an older flooded carb symptom - this happens after sitting day or two and i noticed possibly after raining or damp. parked outside in driveway. engine is cold but i live in south florida so last time problem was at about 78 degrees . sometimes clears itself [ like a heavy cylinder miss ] then clears itself an runs normally like no problems exist . sometimes will not clear up - restart next day normally /perfect . any words of wisdom ? please help -
  • octacomaococtacomaoc Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Tacoma V6 Doublecab. Recently I have noticed a problem with the idle while in drive. One day I came to a red light and stalled when I stopped. That hasn't happened since but I am getting a strange vibration, like it's about to stall, that leads me to believe the idle is too low. If I switch to neutral the idle picks up and the vibration goes away. It's almost like it's choking out on me. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires, air filter and cleaned out the air intake to no avail.

    Has anybody else experience this? If so, how do I fix it?

    Is there an easy way to adjust the idle? If I step on the brake and give it a little gas the vibration goes away. I am currently idling at about 600rpm in drive, 750 in neutral. If I bring the RMPs up to 750 in drive the choking goes away.

    Could it be that simple?

  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I recently had my timing belt changed by a local shop.
    Since the change, on occasion, the truck turns over very slow when cold. Similar to what an engine would do if the distributor was misaligned. Sometimes it turns over and starts normal.

    It runs great and doesn't seem to do this when warmed up.
    I have cleaned the battery terminals and replaced the battery. Still happens only on occasion.

    The shop said the three timing marks are aligned and probably isn't a belt change problem.

    I have owned this truck for over 5 years and it never did this until the belt was changed. Is there anything else I should check ?

    Sounds to me like they removed the ground wire (or hot wire) from the frame/engine to facilitate the belt change and failed to reinstall it or installed it loose/with corrosion. Sounds just like a loose connection that occasionally connects good. Had my truck in to the local repair shop many times for the same problem. I also replaced the battery. Finally a more experienced machanic walked up, heard the symptoms, and said I had a loose connection. Found the connection at the selenoid loose and never had another problem.
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    There is a hard starting problem with V6 tacos and Toyota sent out 2 Technical Service Bulletins that only covered 2003-2004 years I had both done to my 04,they put on a heavier gauge negitive battery wire with more ground leads to engine block this seemed to make the starting worse and took it back for TSB #2 remove gas tank and put an extension on the end of the fuel line that sucks gas out of the tank this procedure is called Remove and Replace fuel suction assembly and cured it completely not one hard start since,this problem seems to go back to previous Tacomas that WERENT covered by these TSBs,I ran into a guy with a 2002 Taco Quad and he was experiencing this problem for 80,000miles he thought it was bad battery or starter problem until I enlightened him but his truck was not covered by TSBs from Toyota.I would try the generic approach check the basics fuel filter,plugs,o2 sensor,battery grounds,if you have K&N filter clean MAF sensor also. Check out these websites for more insight,,,,,Tundras-, do a search for hard starting or starting problems maybe you can get a definetive idea whats going on. Good luck.
  • jaysnnjaysnn Posts: 1
    I just bought an 06 Tacoma PreRunner SRS. I was planning on putting cruise control on it, but when I took it up to the dealership today the service guy said that there was a wire left over (basically saying he didn't know where to put it) and the factory set up wouldn't work. He said I would have to find an after market cruise control. I was wondering if anyone else has ran into this. Maybe it can be done??? Please let me know if its possible. I'd like to keep everything as factory as I can. Thanks in advance.
  • camp26camp26 Posts: 7
    I just bought a 2006 toyota tacoma access cab 4x4 and have the same extact problem. I've put 150 miles on it and brought it to the dealership and they said i just had to break it in. I will call toyota asap. Hopefully they will come up w/ a fix.
  • helitacohelitaco Posts: 3
    hello everyone, just found this site the other day, looks like alot of good discussions
    i was wanting to know if anybody has come up with a fix for the automatic transmission clunk. my 01 tacoma has been doing it since last fall
  • chad4auchad4au Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    Not sure if anyone posted about this. I have an 05 TRD Double cab Tacoma. Two weeks ago I began to experience a loud clicking noise from the front end, especially when I turned, stopped, sped up, etc. Took it into the dealer and they informed me that a TSB had been issued for Front Bumper extensions. Sorry...Not sure about the exact details for the TSB. Just thought I would throw a warning out to all. The fix worked great for me. No noise. If anyone has more details on this exact TSB I am sure everyone here would be interested. Thanks.
This discussion has been closed.