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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • plutoniousplutonious Posts: 799
    There is a TSB for Tacomas with the squeaky clutch problem. Does this mean that the dealership must fix my squeaky clutch for free?
  • kg11kg11 Posts: 530
    Is it the clutch pedal?

  • kg11kg11 Posts: 530
    How much weight are you going to be putting in the truck and trailer combined?No you dont need a class III hitch to tow that trailer empty.I wouldnt spend my money on it,just be carefull about how much weight you're hualing and keep your speed under 25(kidding)but keep it down!

  • plutoniousplutonious Posts: 799
    Yes, it is the pedal. According to what little of the TSB is readily available, the fix requires a new pedal and U-bushing. The TSB also specifically says that adding grease will not fix the problem.

    This is what I found:

    "Clutch pedal squeak in your 1995-99 Toyota Tacoma? On inline Four models, replace the pedal bracket (PN 55107-04010). On V6s, clean the grease from the torsion spring, and then replace the pedal (PN 31310-35050) and U-bushing (PN 90389-05017) if the spring support is worn. Don't add more grease. TSB TC005-99."

    If I take the truck to a dealer with this information, are they obligated to fix it?
  • m1tommym1tommy Posts: 29
    I got my Toyota back from a bit of work about a week ago, and the "check engine" light came on during the drive home today. Jumper-ing the E1 and T terminals in the connector box give me code "25" which my owner's manual tells me is,"Fuel Metering Device (lean)".

    Can someone give me a heads-up of what's happening here? I'm not *the* mechanic, but have some tools and can cipher out some things.

    Opinions or advice are appreciated.
  • losangelesemtlosangelesemt Posts: 279
    If you go over to Edmund's forum " Maintenance & Repair " there are plenty of knowledgeable mechanics who will most likely help with the fuel problem.
  • m1tommym1tommy Posts: 29

    Thank you. I'll try that.
  • jv312jv312 Posts: 32
    I've gotten good toyota tech info at Good luck, jay
  • saupe130saupe130 Posts: 36
    My 1998 squeaks too. It is a TRD 4X4 ext cab V-6 five speed, and it doesn't do it all the time. There is no set pattern as to when it does it either. I find that if you turn the radio up some, you can't hear it. Seriously, if you find out any more on the TSB I'd like to hear back. Other than this, I've got 147K with no complaints.
  • plutoniousplutonious Posts: 799
    Sounds like you go the exact same truck as me. I've noticed the squeaking acts up with changes in the weather. At around 30K miles, a dealer did install new bushings in it and that alleviated the problem for a while, but now it's back. But they didn't put in the new pedal as the TSB outlines. All attempts on my part to lubricate the assembly to stop the squeaking have been unsuccesful.

    Dang, how do you have 147K miles on your truck already? I'm approaching 60K, and I thought I had a lot of miles...
  • rickc5rickc5 Posts: 378

    This is NOT a recall! Just some instructions to Toyota mechanics on how to fix a problem. Obviously, mechanics tried using grease before to quiet the squeak. Guess that didn't work.....

    If your trucks are still under warranty, the warranty may cover the cost of the repair. otherwise, you will have to pay for the fix.
  • kg11kg11 Posts: 530
    In my '95 V6 4x4 the plastic bushing in the pedal arm where the spring goes thru broke and fell out at 30k.I replaced it for under $3,but it took 2 hours in a very uncomfortable position.The dealer wanted $80 to do it.I would have paid if I knew what it took.The new bushing didn't last as long as the first.

    It's not covered under warranty.

  • eomckameyeomckamey Posts: 26
    Would appreciate any help that someone might provide on earlier question #450.

    Thank You!
    Ed M.
  • bstoutbstout Posts: 38
    My 5 speed 2000 Tacoma V6 4WD wants to cut out or hold back around 3500 rpm on up in third gear. A friend tells me it might be a leaky gasket around the gas cap.

    Anyone else had this problem?
  • smgillessmgilles Posts: 252
    Possibly a dirty fuel filter. How many miles are on the truck?
  • bstoutbstout Posts: 38
  • duncanldduncanld Posts: 2
    I have a V-6 Tacoma and the class 3 hitch and was able to travel at 70mph on the interstate with my Uhaul from Alabama to Maryland,(over 700 miles) so that should give you an idea on the power. I will caution you that the Uhaul loaded has a very long stopping and starting time and distance. I hope you don't have to do many hills or it could get really fun. Also check the wiring on the uhauls many are not wired properly.
    I figure that if you need to upgrade your hitch to a class three the load is probably to heavy for your truck to pull safely. I would get the weight on the trailer and estimate about how much your stuff weights and make the decision from that. Be careful and happy trailering.
  • smgillessmgilles Posts: 252
    I would clean the throttle body like Scorpio said and if that doesn't alleviate the problem then I would replace the fuel filter. About 50,000 is when I would replace a fuel filter, but yours may need it already.
  • bstoutbstout Posts: 38
    Thanks for the tips! Whats involved in cleaning the throttle body. I've got the Chilton and the Haynes manuals. I'll have to look when I get home tonight.

    Thanks again Fella's
  • bstoutbstout Posts: 38
    BTW My 2000 4WD V6 also has a sqeaky clutch pedal. I put some white lithium grease on it about a month ago and it all went away.

    It didn't help to grease the plastic bushings. My noise appeared to be coming from the center of the return spring where there is metal on metal contact. I had to grease that point and all the noise went away.

    I wonder if it's going to come back?
  • smgillessmgilles Posts: 252
    Yes, the squeaky clutch noise will be back. There is an actual TSB out for that, but I haven't read it so I don't know what the recommended fix was.

    How to clean throttle body:

    1. Loosen the band clamp (using either a wrench or phillips s-driver) located on the black air intake tube (between the airbox and throttle body) that is closest to the throttle body. This will eventually allow you to pull the rubber/plastic tube away from the throttle body (TB).

    2. Using a pair of pliers, take off the hose clamp located on the small extension pipe that comes off the back of the air intake tube. Then pull off the hose.

    3. Loosen up the various cables and wires that run over the top of the air intake tube. You'll want to lift the tube up as much as possible, so loosening the cables will help.

    4. Here's the hardest part: Under the air intake tube, just above the exhaust manifold, is attached a black box. You will not be able to move the air intake tube until this black box is unbolted from the engine block. There are 2 nuts holding the box to its bracket. You should feel the underside of the box and find the two nuts (12mm) and take them off. The box will then lift up off the bracket.

    5. Grasp the end of the air intake tube at the TB and pull it away (toward the passenger side). It will come off the TB, but will be held somewhat snugly by the various cables and wires running over the top of it.

    6. At this point you can take one of two steps:
    a) just lift up on the end of the air intake tube as much as you can in order to access the TB opening, or
    b) remove the clamp holding the air intake tube to the airbox, which will allow you to wiggle the whole air intake tube out of the engine bay (once you have detached the wire bundles that snap onto it). This makes it much easier to access the TB opening.

    7. Using either "air intake cleaner" or "throttle body cleaner", spray inside the TB opening, focusing on the throttle plate. Spray, then wipe with a clean, lint-free cloth. You'll be amazed how much black crud will wash out. Turn the accelorator cable attachment on the outside of the TB, which will rotate the throttle plate inside the TB. This will enable you to clean both sides and the area where it seats. Don't go nuts with the spray - just spray enough to wet the area, then wipe it out.

    8. Once you're done cleaning, just put everything back together in reverse order.
  • ecc1ecc1 Posts: 11
    I have a 2002 Tacoma 4x4 v6 and it shifts hard between 1st & 2nd gear (only in 4lo). You'll be driving along at an even speed and then as it shifts the truck will lurch forward. Is this normal? This is my first Toyota, but I have had lots of other trucks (Chevy, Ford) that never did this.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Posts: 301
    Yes this is normal due to the fact that in 4-low your gearing is so low that the shifts will feel much firmer.
  • ecc1ecc1 Posts: 11
    Thanks, must be a "toyota" thing, I have a 2001 F250 4x4 that doesn't "lurch" when shifting gears. Of course it probably weighs twice as much as the toyota (too much weight to "lurch").
  • What is the recommened break-in period on a new Tacoma Dbl-Cab V6 auto? I want to tow my boat about 400-500 miles. The boat/trailer together weighs less than a ton, but I wasn't sure when it would be safe to tow it on a road trip.

    Thank you.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Posts: 897
    You ought to be ok. What milage do you have right now? It's fine, as long as you don't strain the truck too much at the beginning, so no flying down the freeway at 90mph with the boat.
  • shaboobyshabooby Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a Toyota Tacoma Double cab, and was wondering if anybody could give me some suggestions as to where a good place would be to purchase Tacoma accessories i.e. side steps, Lund tonneau covers etc. I'm looking for a place that has reasonable prices and good service.

This discussion has been closed.