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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • Finally have a vibration and steering wheel shake free 2005 Tacoma. After 4 trips to the dealer and a new set of Yokohama Geolanders they took the truck to My tire dealer who finally got it balanced. I was not there but I know they have a Haweka Adapter. I feel they used it to balance my truck. I will call them tomorrow to find out what was wrong. Good Luck with your truck.
  • I too am an unfortunate member of the shimmy club. I have had my 05 taco for about a week and the shimmy is driving me crazy. Am going to the dealer today with all of the postings I have found in this forum. The dealer really wants to get to the bottom of this. They are very reputable. Has anyone found a solution yet? I tried removing the skid plate and it made the problem worse. Will keep you all posted.
  • Been There. You need to have your tires "road forced" balanced. It appears that Tacomas and 4 Runners are very sensitive to out of balanced tires. The Shimmy will go away with the proper balance. It took me about 4 trips and a second set of tires before 900 miles. Got my truck back yesterday, no shake, vibration or shimmy. Good luck.
  • Dealership did that. The road force still did not work. The dealer told me it is the crappy Dunlop tires. They are putting on Michelins Monday and road forcing again. Will keep all posted. Glad to hear of your success. :D
  • When I drove the new truck home, going over 40mph or so, I hear a noise. It sounds like the windshield isn't sealed and air is coming through. The noise is a sort of fluttering noise. It's very distracting and annoying to have a brand new vehicle with an issue so soon. Anyone know anything about this?
  • My girlfriend owns a 98 tacoma and we dont know what is wrong with it. It will not start, or even attempt to turn over. I took out the starter, and had it tested. That came out good. Took out the battery to see if cells were good. That turned out good. Then we replaced terminal on battery. It fired up once and ran for a bit. Then tried to restart it to no avail. Even checked the relay, that was in good order. I need help!!! :confuse: :(
  • Do you get a clicking sound (the relay or "starter solenoid" attempting to close) or absolutely nothing happens when you turn the key? When the key is in the "on" position, do the dash lights illuminate, radio and fan work?

    If you get a clicking from the starter relay,you are probably not getting full voltage to starter and relay. Check for bad grounds (battery, engine to frame, starter to frame,etc.) This is the most common prblm when the starter and battery are OK. If you're not even getting a click or clatter, then it may be your starter switch itself .
  • Mine came with the Dunlops on it and I hate them. I put the Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels on my truck. I wasn't going to pay Toyota $1,340 for a set of their Enkie wheels. Wheels helped some but I still have a little shake at 65 in the steering wheel. :(
  • Hey guys, I am chaning out my grille for a chrome Billet top and bottom this week. The Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels are on and they look really nice.I am also having the fog lights wired to run from the switch at same time. Only thing left to do is put the Dual Exhausts on it. I still have not heard from anyone who has successfully put a dual cat-back on one of these trucks. Borla is trying to sell me their system but it is really just two pipes on one side. Flowmasters are too loud.
    Surely someone has experimented with duals on this new V-6? I really want to do this but want to hear from someone else who has experienced it first hand. :blush: Need some help here?
  • You will find out the first time it rais if the windshield is not sealed for sure. All vehicles make noise to a certain degree. As long as your steering wheel is not shaking, sounds like you are alright. Play the radio and look for water when it rains :shades:
  • Hi,

    could someone please help me? I want to buy an Extang soft tonneau cover (like Classic or Blackmax) but i can't figure how did the frame was fixed to the bed. In their aplication charts, they list these models for the Tacoma 2005, but they usually use clamps and there's no "lips" on the composite bed to attach them.

    Any idea???

    Thanks for your input.

    Montreal, QC, Canada
  • mrw1mrw1 Posts: 2
    I love my 05 tacoma 4cyl, 5speed, prerunner. When I start it up it revs to 2100 rpms, then it will drop back down to about 1500 rpms until it's warmed up.
    The dealer said this is normal, I don't think so. Anybody else having this happen?
  • This is normal with almost every new vehicle now. It's an emissions thing. The faster the emissions equipment comes up to operating temperature the more crap it can remove.
  • Thanks for that information - I had noted the same "start up" rev that only seems to last a couple of seconds on my 05 V6 Tacoma.

  • I posted this in the 2005+ forum...maybe related issues:

    I don't have wind noise in the location you describe but I do have an irritating whistling outside the driver's window at highter speeds. My 05 is less than a week old, so I'm still testing. I also hear an odd noise that I can only describe as running water in the dash when giving it gas at low speeds. This seems to stop after the truck is warmed up. Anyone else hear something similar? Is it normal? Incredible truck, though - big difference from my '97 taco (which still runs like a charm)
  • Update on the shimmy club Seems that there is a defect in the steering rack in the 4 runners. The Tacoma and 4 runner have identical racks and are interchangable. If you are unfortunate enough to wind up with a 4 runner rack in your Tacoma, it will make your steering shake and vibrate. Changing tires and road force balancing is only a patch and not a fix. As tires wear, the shimmy will be back. Need to check steering rack and have it replaced with the right one before warranty runs out. Do not take double talk for an answer. I found this out through a dealer in Raleigh, NC that I happens to be a member of my congregation that I work with and he told me the straight scoop on this problem. My Taco is fixed and I elected to keep the Dunlops to save my friend 1000 bucks for the Michelins that did not help. Good luck to all. Hope that your dealer is reputable as mine :)
  • You have a defective steering rack in your truck. You need to have it replaced. This is a common problem with 4 runners and Tacomas. Do not let your dealer feed you with a line of bull. Have them check it out.
  • ram5ram5 Posts: 12
    Does anyone have a schematic on how to wire a 4 pin wire harness for a trailer? This is for 97 Tacoma p/u. It did not have a factory tow package. The brake bulb and turn signal are separate. What do I need to connect the wire for the brake and signal? I also connect the tail light which part of the brake light but when you step on the brake the light on the trailer goes dim. Any suggestion are appreciated. San Antonio, Texas
  • Std trlr harness color code: White is ground, Green and Yellow are turn/brake signals, brown is running/tail lights.

    DO NOT just tap into the wires of your Taco.

    You have to have a converter that connects to the tail lamp line, the right turn, and left turn wires, and outputs the correct signals for the trailer harness' right and left combination turn/brake lamps. Also, some vehicle systems supply the power for trailer lights from a separate line, the taps off the vehicle lamps being just the relay inputs. If needed the aftermarket kits or Toy pkg will have that builtin.

    Best is to either buy a prebuilt adapter/converter from aftermarket mfr like Hoppy, or buy from Toyota. (Those that are adept w/ electronics could make their own in theory, but to do so as compactly and reliably would cost nearly as much as buying aftermarket and is not worth the trouble.)

    The kit will have the instructions.
  • I have a 03' Toyota Tacoma that chirps or squeeks (usually in 1-3 gear) under the hood. It sounds like it might be a belt squeeking, but the mechanic tightened the belt and said that wasn't the problem. When I ride the clutch or press the clutch down the sound goes away. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • Have them check the clutch assembly, especially the throwout bearing, and replace if necessary. I would also have them resurface or replace the flywheel and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate at the same time since they will have to remove the transmission to check the clutch assembly. The whole job including a full clutch assembly and labor shouldn't be more than 500$.

    If that isn't the problem I would start looking at the engine main thrust bearing as the culprit. If it is the main thrust bearing or something else I have no idea on costs. This will also require the removal of the transmission.

    You probably already know this but I'll say it anyway: Don't ever operate your vehicle with your foot resting on the clutch pedal, even if it is only lightly. The only time you should have your foot on that pedal is when you are changing gears or holding the clutch full out while in gear (coasting, stopped at a light, etc.). If the clutch fork is anywhere between full in and full out the pressure plate spring is putting pressure on the throwout bearing. If you rest your foot on the pedal there is constant pressure on the bearing causing it to wear much faster than normal.
  • ram5ram5 Posts: 12
    Thank you for your feedback. I did e-mail the one of the Dealers here in San Antonio and received a call from them. But. did not have clue. He did mention that they don't sell a wiring harnes for the truck.
  • Sounds like you need another dealer.

    You can go to one of the online Toy parts dealers, or,for a lower cost, as noted before, buy aftermarket converter and harness. Hoppy and others most likely sell them. Search for trailer light harness, trailer light converter, etc. Most online dealers for DrawTite, Pullman, and other major hitch mfrs will have either DrawTite, Hoppy, or other harness and converter products.

    While it is possible to home build, it requires some level of electronics knowledge and is not cost effective. Again, don't try to direct splice.
  • labmanlabman Posts: 5
    My 05 Tac. reg cab, 4 cyl. Cd player heats up the CD's and occationally they will not eject all the way out. I need to use twizzers or long nose pliers to pull out the cd. Any one have this problem ?
  • labmanlabman Posts: 5
    My 4 cyl does the same. Get used to it, it's normal.
  • l5504l5504 Posts: 8
    Hey gotp8nt. Did you ever get your hesitation problem fixed? I took mine to another dealership and there lead mech said there's been other people in with the same problem and that he could not figure out what was wrong. Man... What fun huh...
  • I just bought a gorgeous '95 Tacoma from an individual. The mileage is almost 102K. One of the few problems I have with it is the check engine light is on. The previous owner had it checked out, but each place that checked it out had a different answer for him. I had my uncle (who is also the best mechanic I know)check it out before I bought it and he said that the engine is sound. His suggestion was that in some imports, the check engine light alert is tied into the odometer. Once the odometer hits a preset mark, the light comes on in order to signal the driver to get a new oxygen sensor. A new sensor is not always needed, but the light is supposed to come on at a certain mileage point. Any confirmation of this suggestion or other ideas?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I can't say as to whether or not your uncle is right, but it sounds plausible. Although, I would expect it to come up with a mfr specific code that would specifically address the replacement of the sensor.

    I would try using a code reader to check the codes (again, the code only tells you the component that is not giving the computer the answer it "expects", or the component that is most likely the cause of conflicting inputs to the computer, so it may not be the actual problem). In any event, record the error codes and diagnostic info, then reset the (erase) the error codes. Drive it again and see what comes of it. If it doesn't return, then I'd guess your uncle hit is on the head. If it does, then I'd look into the diagnostic codes for clues to the actual problem.

    [A lot of aftermarket autoparts places will plug in code reader for you at no charge -largely because they would like to sell you the parts. Get them to plug it in, you write down the code info, and ask the guy to reset it so you can see if it just a temporary glitch.]
  • I have a 2005 Dble Cab Tacoma and a whistling high pitch annoying noise coming from what seems to be the windshiled right behind the rear view mirror. This will be the third time and second part/seal they will replace. I am convinced it is the windshield but they are not. Only happens when I go over 70 mph and a gust of wind from only certain directions...Anybody haver an idea? Extremely frustrating...
  • Hello everyone:

    My 05 Taco (Dbl cab, SB) seems to have engine detonation, but only when the air conditioner is on. I am not sure if it is actually detonation, but it sure sounds like it. And it also only does it immdiately after an upshift. As speed increases after an upshift the sound trails off. Or, I can turn of the a/c and it doesn't happen at all. Any comments would be appreciated.
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