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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • petemnpetemn Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 1996 Toyota Tacoma 2.4 L. I noticed after buying the following problems. Cracked manifold, very high idling - when I start the car, it revs up to a point as the engine heats up. I tried adjusting the carburetor, but it seems that is not the problem. When I drive the car and come to a red light, the car idles high and unevenly, but never goes off. Recently the check engine light came on
    I replaced the manifold hoping this would cure the problem, but the uneven and high idling is still there. The engine is also noisy but I figure this could be due to not tightening the manifold well. Check engine light is still on after changing manifold
    What concerns me is the high uneven idlling, could it be something to do with the fuel system, maybe a bad fuel pump / filter? Please advise
  • Steering intermittent vibration problem 2005 Taco 4x4 Here is another fix for Taco vibration problems. After 8 trips to the Toyota dealer. ( tires replaced, rim replaced, balanced, etc) I got Toyota to pay for a local tire shop road force test. The tires, rims, and balance were ok. The tire shop put the truck up on a rack and it a few minutes found a bad CVC joint on the front left wheel. Replace by Toyota and the vibration is gone.
  • I am also looking to purchase the Extang Blackmax tonneau cover for my 2005 Dbl cab Tacoma, does anyone know if this cover will install on the OEM bedliner with channels?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    This is puzzling. You mention 1996 Tacoma, "car", and carburetor.
    I'm not sure if we're talking about a truck, car, or riding mower.

    You have a carburetor and not a throttle body w/ fuel injection?

    In any event, if the check engine light is on, the first step is to check what error codes are stored in the OBD. If you don't have an OBD reader, you can usually go to an auto parts store and they'll plug one in to read you the codes. Have them reset or clear the codes and try again. If you get the same codes, then you have clues as to the areas to check.

    Generally a high idle is not filter or fuel pump related, particularly if it runs well at higher loads and rpm. You could have a mixture issue, if you have a throttle body you could have a worn idle solenoid or valve, you could have sensor issues, any number of things. Start w/ the OBD.
  • hal0hal0 Posts: 1
    I have been having an intermittent problem with my directionals blowing fuses and after several trips to the dealer they have decided the solution is to spend thousands of dollars and replace the entire wiring harness. I am not to optimistic that I will get back the same truck that I dropped off this past Monday. Also, have just been told that the harness may or may not show up next Wednesday for them to start the work. Has anyone else run into this? Is their a point you should just get a new vehicle? Its my understanding that the wiring harness is primarily installed when there is just a frame and an engine on the assembly line. Im distressed that my truck is going to be completely destroyed during this process. Any thoughts or ideas for me? 2004 Xtracab 4X4 V6.
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    I ordered a 16" 3300cfm electric fan and adjustable thermostat to replace the clutch fan on my 05 Tacoma V6. Trying to free up some HP and MPG. Anybody that's done this, did you have positive or negative results? Thanks.
  • petemnpetemn Posts: 2
    Thanks for your suggestions. Its a Tacoma pickup and you are right its a fuel injector.

    I will get readings from ODB II
  • sgwynnsgwynn Posts: 2
    I had similar problems on my '96 xcab 4WD. After $300.00 on new O2 sensors, fuel system wash and a bunch of other stuff, some other forum had the suggestion:

    Buy a $3.00 can of electronic parts cleaner.
    Disconnect the plug to the MAS (Mass Air Sensor, or other such name). It's labeled, right behind the air cleaner. There are 2 cross-point screws and it lifts right out. Inside, you'll see two very small wires. Don't touch them! Just hold it up where you can spray the electronic cleaner on both wires until it drips on the floor, then let it dry for about 5 minutes. It's quick drying stuff, no water.
    Then re-assemble, reset your ODBII codes (you can do this by removing fuses, or by haveing someone with an ODBII Scanner reset them for you).

    The check-engine light has not come back on, and I've got a bunch more horsepower, mileage is up to about 20-25 and I'm happy. It was cheap, easy, and it works.
  • I need to find out how to disconnect the governor on a 2.4 dohc 2001 tacoma?
  • hey y'all... hoping you can help me with this...

    i just bought a used 95 ext cab 2wd tacoma with near 150,000 miles and am having slight problems... i mean... i'm still going on long drives and such... just pushed my first 1000... good stuff... but not perfect yet...

    first problem:
    recently (as in the last few days) the brake has been feeling very lose... i have much more play before it actually grabs the wheels... but if i pump the pedal it grabs where it should... i have checked the fluid... no shortage there... and i do not think it is a problem with the brakes themselves... maybe in the master cylinder?.. any ideas?..

    second problem:
    while shifting into first and fifth (and occasionally third) the gears seem to grind a little... it is as if i have let the clutch out too soon... but my foot is still on the floor... it is not bad with the fifth gear... just a little grab it it's in... but with the first it will bounce back out and i have to wait until i have come to a full stop to push it in... i have heard that the bushing can wear out on the shaft... i'll replace that soon... and i took it to a mechanic and he said that some bearing is worn out and i need a new clutch... but i don't think that he really felt the problem i was having... i think he was bumming about how it was a little difficult to push the stick into first (which it is... but i don't mind that)... whereas i was talking about how it sometimes won't let you because the gears are grinding... i checked the clutch fluid and it was super low... so i filled it back up... but still no change... and the mastery cylinder here is brand new... help?..

    and finally:
    as of yesterday my truck had some troubles starting... i do not think that it is the battery because the stereo turns on just fine... the ignition makes it all the way to the "khh" sound that should turn into a running engine... but then changes it's mind... then i'll try again and there's nothing for a little while... so i chill out for a second and talk to the truck... tell it not to worry... and it starts... one time i tried taking out the key and putting it in the other way and that helped because i know that the key is worn down (i can't lock the doors with it... the teeth are just too old)... but may have just been coincidence... any thoughts?..

  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    By loose it sounds like you mean you have to press the pedal far to get any braking. That could be caused by a worn master cylinder or air in the lines, either induced because fluid level was allowed to go too low (due to leaking wheel cylinder or caliper, or leaking master cyl), or internal leak in the master cyl. Probably could get a quick diagnosis with a free brake check by a tire and brake shop that you trust. (I personally trust our local Firestone shops, but I've read horror stories inother cities, so pick someone w/ a good rep. Our Midas shops are both crooks and incompetent -long story but I know it first hand).

    Gears grinding-
    Could be low fluid or air in the system if this has an hyd clutch (I am not that familiar w/ the clutch on the manual Tacos). Also could by worn synchronizers. (Synchronizer is a part that helps to spin up (or down) the speed of the gears that are about to be engaged as you shift from one selection to another. The synchronizer engages before the gears do, slipping at first until the gear speeds up sufficiently. When worn, the sync doesn't engage early enough and gears grind because of the large difference in rotating speed.)

    If you mean that it is cranking (engine turning) but just not startng, that's one thing, if you hear a click or clatter, that's another. In the first case, we'll need much more info. In the latter, I would start with looking at the battery condition and the terminals and cables. If the batt has an "eye" on top, see if it's the right color (read the label on the batt) Clean and tighten all connections. Check for a bad ground cable or connection, particularly btwn battery and chassis, engine and chassis, etc. Check for good connection from battery to starter. Check alternator to battery/starter connections. IF still no joy, check battery condition. Most auto parts places will do that for free -Walmart auto shop as well. Key teeth being worn is coincidenc. If the key turns the lock enough to turn on dash warning lights, that's not the prblm.
  • I have an "05 Tacoma that the Check Engine Light keeps coming on. It was brand new in March, I've taken it to my local dealer 7-8 times now and the Check Engine Light still comes on. I think I have a lemon, just wanted to see if others were having the same problems. The dealer keeps telling me it's a fuel delivery system problem...Sensor cap in the fuel tank, replaced pipe to computer(?), replaced computer, did the recall/Technical Bulleltin correction etc...still after less than 20 miles from when Check Engine Light is turned off it comes on again...What gives Toyota?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    It could be something simple, but I would look into what the details are regarding the lemon law in your state -just for your own info at this point. You need to make sure you have documentation of each time it was brought in (date, mileage etc), what the complaint was, what was done, and what the result was.

    Once you line up your marbles so to speak, speak w/ the service dept manager (not a service writer). Explain to him that you certainly don't want to be uncooperative, but that you have brought the vehicle in for the same prblm X times. Maybe mention that if you wanted to make trouble you would have looked at the relief of the lemon law way before now. But explain that you can't continue without the problem being solved, so ask him if he can get his "best tech" on the problem so as to solve it once and for all for everyone, or if he/she has already tried, ask him to request assistance from Toyota.
    In a non-threatening and calm but confident manner, note that you would much prefer to get this resolved straightforwardly instead of having the vehicle replaced, but that you need to have confidence in the reliability of the vehicle and right now it's just not there.

    If you approach this calmly, well informed/documented, but in a no-nonsense manner, you're most likely to get the results that you need, whether that's a better look at the problem or a replacement.

    Good luck.
  • Okay... I am getting the brakes fixed today... went in on Saturday and found that my pads were pretty much non-existent... so got them replaced and everything... but that of course did not fix the spongy pedal... so today I’m putting in a new master cylinder...

    for the gears... it had had low fluid and I filled it back up as soon as I realized... but it hasn't improved since... so I am thinking that it must be something else... is the synchronizer something that I can deal with myself... or do I need to take it in for that?.. the Meineke dude (good guy... very helpful and understanding of my low budget) told me that I might need a new clutch... the truck has 150,000 on this one... so I guess that that is not a bad life... but I really don't have the cash for that kind of thing... so yes... could I deal with the synchronizer myself?..

    and the starting... it is cranking for sure... sometimes it will even crank and sound like all is good and then crap out after a few seconds... could it be my spark plugs?..
  • Hi -I'm new here, so not sure if I'm posting correctly. My 99 Tacoma(115K miles) clutch pedal has been notorious for squeaking and now it has a lot of play in it and sometimes will not come back fully to its normal position after I press it. I can pull it back with my foot to its normal positon. Could one or more of the bushings be gone, or is the clutch itself failing? It drives fine as far as I can tell.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    brakes- whoa- Why are you replacing the master cylinder unless you know it's bad?
    Did you have the brake lines bled to remove air? Are the wheel cylinders and calipers OK or possibly leaking? Check for air in the lines before just replacing the master cyl.

    Gears- If I remember correctly, your prblm was a "grinding" of the gears when you would shift. You didn't say anything about slippage (high rpm due to clutch slipping when starting off or under high load for example). Again, check for air in the lines before you do something expensive. If your clutch pedal is spongy and you get the grinding, it may well be air in the clutch line. This air compresses far more than the fluid that should be in there, and can result in the the throwout arm not releasing the clutch completely. That's a CHEAP fix. Secondly, if it's not air in the line, and not the clutch master or slave cylinder, it may be the synchronizers. They are inside the transmission. So unless you've taken apart -and reassembled- something as complicated (and heavy) as a transmission, then this is a job for the pros. However, I'd be reluctant to go to the (good guy) Meineke dude. If his first guess is that a worn clutch is causing the grinding -he's either trying to sell you something you don't need, or he doesn't know what he's talking about -or both. Sounds a lot like the Midas guys here. 150000 miles is a great life for a clutch -but are you sure that the previous ownder hadn't changed it ever?
    Again, look for air in the lines first -particularly since you said the reservoir had been low. It's fairly cheap to bleed air out of the clutch -certainly in comparison to all the other guesses. If there is no air in the line, and if there is nothing wrong w/ the clutch master and slave cylinders, it's almost certain to be the synchronizers -but it certainly won't be the clutch lining.

    Starting- it could be SO many things given the small info that we have here.
    If the MIL (malfunction indicator light or "engine" light) is lit, then there is a failure code(s) stored in the computer. Get someone with a codereader to read that code or codes to find out wher to go next.
  • ok... i'll bleed the brakes tonight and see if that helps before i go for the cylinder... is one of those super expensive?..

    for the clutch... there is no slippage... just an occational grinding when trying to go into one of the odd gears... and i know that it had a new master cylinder put in three years (about 55,000 miles) ago... but i'll try bleeding it all the same...

    and for the ignition... there are no warning lights... it just won't start about 50% of the time... what more information should i try to give you to help me on this one?..

    thanks for y'all's fast replies...
  • oh... and no spongy feeling on the clutch pedal either...
  • jcurljcurl Posts: 1
    I have an '01 2.7L 4x4 Tacoma with a bad O2 sensor, thought the dealer was trying to rip me off with a $250 quote but its 400 bucks elsewhere! Anyone know a good source for a cheaper one? Also I have had a steering wheel shake for a long time, got new tires and it still does it. I've heard that using a Haweka adapter to center the wheel while being balanced will fix it. Wondering if anyone has an more info on that since I think it is a fairly common problem of these trucks.
  • I have an '01 .3.4L 2WD Tacoma. It has 138000 miles and lately i've been having problems with the engine. I don't know exactly what it is but hopefully I can explain it well enough for someone to catch on.

    I started the truck up one day, after it had been sitting for about 2 weeks. When it started up the engine cranked up with a weird sound, but started. I noticed white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I asked someone and they said it was just oil burning. So I didn't think of it and went on driving.
    The next day i took it in for and oil change. When I got the truck back the guy said that it was idling very high and low at sometimes. ( I do have a K&N Intake on it). I don't know if that has anything to do with it. So i got in the truck to go home and I went to crank it and the engine came on then turned off. So i did it again and as it came on i revved the engine and it stayed on.
    The next day I took it out and as i came to a stop it shut off. So i cranked it up and it started. Then On my way home i was taking a turn and it Died once again.

    So im concerned as to what it might be. Could it be my intake? I need some feedback. Thanks
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    White smoke is usually water or coolant. (Blue is oil, black is excess or unburned fuel)
    Did your truck get wet, as in partially submerged?
    Is it possible that you got water in the fuel tank? (Although I would expect that if water was picked up from the tank it wouldn't run.)

    Do you have any water in the crankcase (oil)?

    Is the coolant level staying normal, or do you have to add?

    If the intake, head , or block are leaking coolant, you could get some of these effects. If the coolant level is staying constant, does it show oil? If coolant level is dropping, fill it, then leave the cap off and start the engine. let the engine get up to operating temp so that the thermostat opens and notice if you see any bubbles coming from the coolant reservoir which could be exhaust.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    brake- master cylinder is expensive. wheel cylinders a bit less, but should be replaced in pairs, calipers are expensive. So, bleed the heck out of those suckas before you give up on them. Another, but less likely suspect is bad brake hoses (btwn master cyl and hard piping and btwn hard pipe and wheels). If the hose reinforcement is going bad it may swell as you apply brakes, the change in volume taking some of the fluid that should be moving the piston at the wheel cyl or caliper. You would need 2 people, one to apply brake, the other to observe to see this. (wear safety glasses)

    clutch- hope for air in the line and bleed it. otherwise, my best guess is synchronizers.

    if ignition successfully gets the engine to turn every time and it just doesn't always start, it's either a fuel delivery or ignition system problem. W/o diagnostic lights, you need to go one step at a time. First, check history or condition of spark plugs, then fuel filter, etc. If filter hasn't ever been replace, try that (though that's not the most likely cause, if it's really old it should be replaced). if plugs are bad, change them. Things require diagnostic equipment after that (plug wires, coils, injectors and pump, etc.)
  • jrfathjrfath Posts: 1
    I have an 05 double-cab 4x4. My CDs get WAY hot...almost too hot to the touch to eject. Especially after playing for 30+ minutes. Had one skipping the other day, but do not know if that was b/c of the heat, or if it was a poorly burned CD.
  • About a year ago I started noticing little orange specs popping through all over on my paint. I knew it was rust but I was baffled at how my truck was rusting so soon. I live relatively closer to the ocean, but I take care of my truck. I thought perhaps I'd done something wrong, but the paint is really prone to chips as well. Anyway once I figured out it was a defect in the paint. I took it to the dealer & they tried to tell me "oh yeah ....that will wash off." WTF??? Um, ok they also said it would be an ext. warranty issue since I'm am over my 36,000 miles & that it was my problem & good luck getting them to pay. I finally put my "thinking cap" on & read my warranty regarding anti corrosion. Now I have to go back & fight with them because everyone says it looks like a bad primer job. I'm really confused as to why I should have to "fight" about anything??? It's on paper! Has anyone else gone through this before?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I don't have the warranty in front of me, but I think if you read it carefully, you'll find it says 5yr for rust-thru or perforation. In other words, they don't warrant the finish or appearance at all, merely that the panel won't rust so badly within 5yrs that it has holes in it. Not much of a warranty, but all automakers have that.

    As for others experiencing paint prblms- yes, just a few wks after I had picked up m 2004 dc taco, I noticed rust stains on the black weatherstrip near the threshold when I opened the door. Looked underneath and noticed that the corners of each door had no topcoat (white) and the driver's door had a thumbsized spot with absolutely no paint at all.
    A friend w/ a 2002 had the same spots of no top-coat (champagne), but no bare metal.Several other trucks in the parking lot looked the same, and reports here on Edmunds were common.

    When I brought it in and argued that with only a couple of wks ownership I shouldn't be seeing bare metal rusting, pointed out that the truck bed topcoat was so thin I could see gray primer thru it in spots, and so I felt that if they were going to repaint it, Toy should provide a letter that would note the problem and cover any future defects found in the paint for at least 5yrs, preferably 10, they wouldn't discuss it. Months later, I'm cleaning the truck and notice a blister where the original rust was. The repaired paint was rusting from beneath. Brought it in, they botched that a couple of times as well. Thank goodness. It progressed so badly with the incompetent svc mgr that the owner eventually offered to fix it, replace the doors, or refund my full purchase price. Because of the way that upper mngment handled it, and the fact that I didn't want to not have a truck, I asked that they sell me a new 2005, and apply the refund to that purchase. They gave me the same discount that I had on the orig negotiated 2004, so I paid the difference in the discounted price of a 2005 vs a 2004. In essence, I drove the 2004 for nearly a year at no cost to me. (Didn't hurt that the resale value of the 2002-2004 models had gone so high and I had very little mileage on the truck.)

    So, after the above rambling, the bottom line is, I think Toy had a lot of paint issues in those model years. I was lucky enough to get into a new truck and so far don't have the fear that my truck will turn orange.
  • jimmerjimmer Posts: 9
    My 05' tacoma had an engine light too! I took it to my dealer, they plugged it in to their computer (hand held device) And got a fault that a chip in side is no good. I forget the actual fault code. The tech was unable to clear the fault, and the solution from "e-tas" was to replace the ecu!! I had mine replaced and the problem went away. I'll also wanna quickly mention that I've had 15 warranty claims in under the first year!! i did go talk to the owners of my dealership politely about my concerns! I was told he would see what he could do. Well this sat i go to pick up my 06'!! Not 100% free, i am paying a small amount for depreciation. I'm very impressed the way my dealership and toyota handled my situation. My toyota customer service has been more than excellent! :)
  • My 05 DC with 4.0 is having an idling problem.

    Yesterday I was riding and noticed everytime I stopped at a light, my engine was not idling properly. The Tach was moving from 500 - 650, @ 600 it ildes smooth as silk. When it drops to 500, it gets rough, I am hoping this is somehow due to the very wet conditions, but none the less find it troublesome just the same. Has anyone else had this type of issue with their truck?
  • Well I recently upgraded my speakers in my DC. I was unpleasantly surprised to see multiple orange (rust colored) spots on the bottom of the rear passenger side door. There appear to be 5 or 6 tiny rust spots, the size of a pencil tip. None the less, pencil tips turn into eraser tips in under 5 yrs. My concern is that if the obvious areas are rusting, what it happening in the not so obvious areas ?

    Everyone, check your trucks with a fine tooth comb, and lets see if this problem is bigger than we thought. Then we can deal with the resolution issues.

    Good Luck
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Was A/C or windshield defogger on? (ac compressor running)

    May be a low idle issue and the higher speed w/ the a/c on smoothed things, or could be that the idle is not going up when the compressor kicks on, and that's dragging rpm down. The latter shouldn't happen as the ECM should be maintaining rpm regardless of load, but...
  • Intermittent vibration problem at 60 to 70 mph. It seems that this is a common problem on the 2005 Tacos. The truck has been back to the dealer 9 times and it is not fixed. The problem has been on the truck since new and it now has 10000 miles on it The tires have been balanced, replaced (Dunlop to Firestone),road force tested and balanced, front left axle replaced. I would appreciate a post from anybody that has this problem fixed. I have thought it was fixed only to have it come back a few days later.
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