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Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)



  • The fuel filter is located under the air cleaner box. I removed the box to get to the filter. Toyota says this is a lifetime filter. I change mine every 60,000 miles. The plugs are also replaced at 60,000 miles. I am taking for granted that this interval did not change from '99 to you '02 model.
  • My 2000 Sienna has the same problem as yours. Just bought an OBD II code reader to find out why the check engine light came on. Same two trouble codes: P1130 & P1135. Just ordered the A/F (air/fuel) sensor and will let you know if it fixes the problem. . . I agree with previous response that the heater element is probably open or otherwise bad.
  • 03honda03honda Posts: 96
    We own a 2003 Sienna Symphony w/24,000 miles--problem free so far, except for a squeaky steering wheel, especially when the weather gets cold...anyone else experiencing this?? Is a trip to the dealer a waste of my time or is there a fix? thanks!
  • epharpepharp Posts: 7
    I also own a 2003 Sienna Symphony w/28000 miles and am experiencing the exact same problem(squeaky steering wheel). I had thought it would be a waste of time taking it to a dealer but now after reading your post I am rethinking that.


  • jeffzjeffz Posts: 1
    98 Toyoto Sienna.

    Engine check light on.

    DTC code: po155 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 2 sensor 1)

    Does't anyone know where is the location of this sensor?

    I plan to work on it during spring break (March). Does it hurt the engine or other part of my car if I don't fix the problem until then?

    Auto part store told me that the cost for the sensor would be around $170. Anywhere I could buy cheaper one?


    Thanks in advance for any advise.
  • 03honda03honda Posts: 96


    I've made an appointment at my dealer for Friday--I'll update on the outcome of that! Glad to know I'm not just hearing things!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    You may want to ask in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? forum too.


    [Edit] I forgot to mention that my sister had two bad O2 sensors on her New Beetle that she ignored for three months. As far as I know, the only downside in waiting to fix them was her mileage tanked.


    Steve, Host
  • Well, you have a 50-50 chance on this one. I believe this is the back O2 sensor near the firewall. The one on the front side, near the radiator, is easy to replace. So, you could try changing this one out first (that is what I did.) I was wrong and had to change sensor with harder access.
  • pn6pn6 Posts: 14
    For error codes 1130 check the bank 1 sensor 1 sensor (firewall side of engine) and for error code 1150 check bank 2 sensor 1 (radiator side). Both are in the exhaust manifold.


    Front is easy to reach, I'm told the back is very difficult to reach and needs a special tool. It looks to me that all it needs is a small arm and a good grip, although I haven't been able to tell exactly where the wires from the part go to.


    Since this is such a common problem part, has Toyota stepped up to assume some responsibilty for anyone?


    I hesitate both to have a non-dealer fix the problem, and to do it myself because of it's location. And I'm also afraid of being taken to the cleaners if Toyota fixes it....

    FREEBIRD: Where does the rear sensor wire connect to the car's harness? Can you detail what it's like to change part?

  • The connector is simple to disconnect, but hard to get to. Look at the front O2 sensor. Open the hood and look down between the exhaust manifold and radiator. To the right, you will see the sensor. It is about the side of spark plug with a wire coming out of it. It has about a 6 inch pigtail that has a connector on it. This is the same as on the firewall side.


    I changed my back sensor from under the car. I just had to work my hands between the firewall and suspension to get to it. I would say that if you have large hands, it would be difficult to do.


    Let us know how you make out.
  • epharpepharp Posts: 7
    Over the course of the last week, I would have warning lights come intermittently on in the middle of driving, such as the ABS light come on then go out when the engine is restarted, also the seatbelt light warning light come on after being on the road but then would reset when we pulled over, stopped and started the van without detaching the seatbelt. Has anybody else experienced this problem? Is this something that the dealer could trouble shoot without the warning light actually being on when taken to the dealer, since it doesn't occur all the time.
  • pn6pn6 Posts: 14
    FREEBIRD: I can see the sensor in the rear side using a mirror while lying by the car. I have not put it on blocks to crawl under yet. I cannot see where the wire lead connects to the car's harness. Could you be more specific as to where the sensors connection is. Is it difficult to unplug? Is the wire the same length as the front?


    Thanks... it's good to benefit by one's experience and I guess that's what these boards are all about.
  • jaclacjaclac Posts: 2
    where would you say is the best place (or specific person at toyota)to send or email a complaint letter to?


    we have a 98 sienna that has sludging and transmission problems, and i'd like to let them know of my dissatisfaction with their horrible product. (the sludging was somewhat bearable to go through since they covered the problem, but the transmission didn't fail until 6 months after the special warranty expired, so we had to take care of that ourselves).


  • Sorry I can't answer your 'where to file complaints question', but since I have the same van as you, I was wondering:


    1) at how many miles did the engine show problems? How about the transmission?


    2) what were your oil change and transmission fluid change intervals? I change oil at 3750 miles, and trans at 30,000. My van only gets driven about 10,000 miles/year though.
  • If you get under the van and follow the wire, you will feel the harness connector. I remember that it has a connection on the fire wall to keep the wire from dangling around. You have to use two hands to disconnect.


    If you look at the O2 sensor connector on the front as described earlier, then you will see the exact connector that you will be dealing with on the rear.
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    Both policies i think are 8 yr 100k miles or 160k kms. in the early days toyota would reimburse the money if repaired at a toyota facility.
  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    Not sure of the best place to send a letter. The phone number given in the letters sent regarding the sludge problem is: 1-888-802-9436.


    If you do a search of Edmunds for "sludge" you will find an old archived discussion that was started by Toyota to address the sludge situation. I think I remember seeing ways to contact people at Toyota. Again, this was for the engine, not the transmission. It won't hurt to file complaints with the NHTSA at and the Center for Autosafety at


    Good luck. If I come across any information that may help you, I will post it.
  • jaclacjaclac Posts: 2
    engine problems started around 75,000 miles


    transmission failed around 155,000 miles.


    changed oil about every 3000 miles. never changed transmission fluid - (bought car with 70,000 miles) supposed we learned an expensive lesson from that :(


    the sludging warranties for 8 years regardless of miles. the mechanic at toyota told us it will definately sludge's just a matter of time. it's a 1998, so hopefull it does it before 2006. a local mechanic said he's had customes add a touch of transmission fluid to the oil and never have sludging problems again...anyone ever heard of that?


    the transmission warranty was a time issue, (regardless of milage), which ended in may of 2004. (of course our transmission was fine until nov of 2004...isn't that the way the cookie crumbles)


    thanks for your responses!
  • Our transmission went out just after Christmas. We called Toyota customer service and was told the first time that there was no extended warranty. Ditto THE DEALER. Called back to the Toyota (800) # and was tolded that there was an exteded warranty to 100K/8 years, but that it only covered the transaxle, not the full transmission. Went back to the dealer and he said - they were the same thing. Had to pay $250 for misc fees, but it was better than the $3,100 quote that we originally got. If you've already paid for the repairs, you should still have a good chance of getting reimbursed. Good Luck!
  • It's interesting to that our check enging light keeps coming on in our 2000. I'm pretty sure it's the O2 sensor, because I've already had to replace both of mine in my 2001 Tundra. It makes one wonder if there might not be an ongoing problem with these sensors that Toyota is using.
  • 03honda03honda Posts: 96
    Took it to the dealer today...lubricated the streering column boot assembly under warranty and no more squeaks!!
  • epharpepharp Posts: 7
    03honda, thanks for the update, I'll have them lube that boot when I take it in to have them check my electrical system.


  • pn6pn6 Posts: 14
    FENCEPRO: There is an ongoing issue with failing sensors and Toyota should do something about it. Seems to be a popular subject; just do a Google on it.


    They're $300 each installed after they do their "required" diagnostics! My local Toyota dealer in Wellesley, MA wouldn't do a thing about it, other than to charge me.
  • pn6, thanks for the reply. seems like i've been doing quite a bit of research on the sienna lately. I don't remeber where I found it, but TSB EG019-02 was issued saying that toyota would reimbusre for failed o2 sensors up to 7 years/90k. I found the receipt for the sienna at 62K miles, but both of mine on the tundra went out after 90K. go figure. after all the trouble we went through with the transmission on the sienna three weeks ago, we now have engine trouble. found an oil leak and took it to an independent. he told me the crank seal was leaking. had it towed to leith toyota in raleigh. the service tech told me that it was not a gel problem with the oil, but that the valve seals had gone bad. i then asked about the crank seal and he said, oh, yeah, that has gone bad too. talked with another independent and he said that if the pcv valve was getting clogged (thickening oil) that it would create enough pressure inside the engine block that it would start blowing all the seals. am going back this afternoon to talk with them again to see if both the front and back crank seals as well as the valve seals have all gone bad independently of one another. to say the least, i am highly skeptical that this problem is not directly related the to engine gel problem.
  • TSB EG019-02 looks like it only applies to the 2000 Tundra. Did you get Toyota to apply it to the Sienna too?
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    this was one of the findings back in 2001 that was causing sludging. An easy do it yourself thing to do it change it every yr or every 2 yrs. The part is $10 and it requires no tools and about 10 mins. Chk for a posting from "jeprox" about how to change it.
  • We have a 1998 Sienna with 120,000 miles, and I was just told we need a transmission replacement, at a cost of $3300! I found our letter from Toyota in our file about the engine sludge warranty they gave, but cannot find anything about a transmission warranty. Would I be covered with 120,000 miles and a purchase date of May 1998? Thanks.
  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    I am not sure, but I thought the transmission campaign was limited to 100,000 miles; however, the sludge campaign is unlimited miles, so I could be wrong. According to the NHTSA government website, the recall Service Bulletin Number is TC03014 and it is stated to be for "extended warranty coverage regarding a no movement or a slipping condition of the automatic transaxle". I recommend that you contact your local dealer with the bulletin number and see if they can give you a print out or at least some more details.
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