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Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)



  • w2323w2323 Posts: 60
    I have a power window motor that is out on the passanger side. I went to autozone they have a replacement for 87 bucks. Pretty reasonable. Do I just tug on the panel on the side of the door to get access to the motor. Also does anyone know if its a simple installation. as in take these bolts off and put the new one on with the wires? For some reason I think it might be more complicated.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    do you have connectors on the door and door pillar? maybe cleaning them with a pencil eraser (this will be familiar procedure to anyone who used to race slot cars as a child ;) ) will remove deposits and create better continuity between the contacts. that's where i'd start.
  • My 2002 XLE Sienna has the same problem. The tapping noise is right around 1900 RPM until the engine warms up. Mechanics at Toyota dealer said it was regular engine noise.

    I am very interested in:
    1) How did you contact Toyota (not just the dealer) to get them to get the dealer moving?
    2) Did you get a final answer from the dealer?
  • posterposter Posts: 2
    With regular gas am getting 16-18 around town and about 19 regularly on the highway for the 62,000 miles we've run it. We drive it gently. Has been like this since new. Just wondering, especially with gas at $2.28, if that's typical mileage or if it's low..

    Vans been good to us, and except for something causing a tightness in the drivers window track that's scratched two windows has been trouble free. Something is pressing hard against the glass in the center area of the weatherstripping and causing it to scratch the glass. Dealer replaced weatherstripping and glass when new; then said it's my problem when the new window also got scratched in the same spot. Would have fought them if energy allowed.

    Great board. First post.
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    that a bit on the low side. we have a 00 with 82k kms and its mostly hwy driven. On the HWY you get around 25 MPG. on a avalon (same engine less weight to move) in city driving we get about 23-24 MPG. maybe you could try to use higher octane gasoline for a tank to clean out any deposits in the cylinders. Or put ina can of fuel injector cleaner.
    I use 87 octane.
  • w2323w2323 Posts: 60
    Last I checked I got 21 MPG but I'm going to check again soon.

    When I bought my sienna to the dealership under the 36k warrenty they said the scratch on my drivers side window came from sand and they blew it out. It's amazing how good an acter these guys are, because the service manager said it was odd and that he never saw it. So now I know its a bogus excuse. Now I'm stuck with a scratched side window. One other problem I have with my sienna is that the front windshield has fine scratches. This car has never had a bad wiper. Yet I have fine scratches on the front windshield. I noticed the Siennas I see on the street have the same problem. I can only assume Toyota uses cheap glass of some kind. I have been driving in Florida for 15 years and none of my cars had scratched glass from sand.
  • tropicotropico Posts: 1
    Hi There! Just wanted to let you know I am having the same intermittent problem on my 2001 Sienna CE with 98k kilometers. My experience is that on the occasional cool morning heading into work, a buzzing/tapping noise will be heard up front as the transmission prepares to shift from first to second. The noise matches the engine's pitch as the revs build up. The transmission noticeably hesitates too, waiting longer to shift up than it normally would. Again when it shifts from second to third, it might repeat the problem to a lesser degree. By the time I hit the next stop light a mile or so away, the problem is gone. Weird. I will be mentioning this to the dealer when I bring the van in for it's next oil change. I'm dying to hear how you made out with your problem !!
  • paul6paul6 Posts: 14
    w2323: I've seen another Sienna with scratches in the drivers door glass in the exact same area as mine. Facing the door, it's in the middle of the right central area extending from halfway up the window to the top. Your's in the same area?

    I've noticed I can readily slip a sheet of paper between the glass and the weatherstripping everywhere but where the scratches are....indicates that something is too tight with the door construction. The dealer all but laughed at me when I showed them.
  • My 4 year old son got tangled in the rear left seatbelt of our 2000 Sienna. The belt tightened up around his waist and started to constrict his breathing, my wife had to call security and have them cut the seat belt strap to get him out.

    I brought the Sienna in to Toyota of Watertown Mass and asked if there were any product recalls. They said they'd check and called me back to say there would be no charge to replace the seat belt.

    Not sure if anyone has experienced this but it was a frightening experience for my wife and could have been tragic.

    The dealer of course while waiving the cost for the seat belt "noticed" in a courtesy inspection that my valve seals are gone and will require $500 to replace. A bit surprising as the vehicle only has about $50K miles on it. I think I'm going to wait and do some research on this.

    Comments welcome and thanks.
  • p53mustangp53mustang Posts: 16
    Don't hold your breathe on anything from toyota. When this whole problem first was diagnosed (at least a month now) after about a week of me waiting for a call from a promised from the service advisor at the stealership, I started a case with Toyota (which so far has been a waste of my time. Per Toyota , when they emailed me back , they gave me a case number and then they apologized for the problem and naturally referred me back to the stealership, they even told me that a customer relations manager (from the stealership) will contact me no later than April 19. Well on the 21st I emailed them back telling them that their so called cust relations manager haven't called me back, at the same time also I've been calling the service advisor who worked with my car initially. At first he was out sick next day I was on hold forever, I then asked the operator to transfer my call to the cust. relations manager she told me that this manager is on vacation for a week(go figure , maybe Toyota thought I wouldn't persist after clearly making a fool out of me) so I emailed them back and asked them what happened and where's the personal service since whoever is responding does not even give a name as to who the heck he / she is and what she does. They then emailed me again and apologized for there was a breakdown in communication somewhere and promised another call again a week later. In the meantime I finally got a hold of the service guy and he apologized for not calling me back when he promised he would ( I just said to myself spare me the apology , i've had enough from everybody , and get something done) he said Toyota tech told him to bring back my van for more test. Bring back the van I did after a day I called he said he needs another day, I asked for a loaner says they don't have I will have to rent from them and if they find anything wrong they will credit me back (at this point i'm beginning to think they are milking me and I don't really have any choice transportation wise but I still try to be nice to them). After about half a day I called and ask what's up. I was told by the advisor it's not a piston slap , at first he floated the idea it's a spark knock. I told him everythird fill I use premium . And I didn't brought the van to them right away when i first noticed the problem because what I had done was run the van on premium gas for 4 full tanks. He said he'll call me back cause they are still working on it. He later called me and said they found out what the problem was. He said there is carbon build and it's particularly bad in cylinder #3 it's almost hitting the piston. I asked if they tested the compression he said yes the tech did although it's not written on paper ( there's a reason why I asked this). and it's okey. He said the fix was a top cylinder clean up for $192 . When I asked about warranty he said it's not covered because it's not a failed part (go figure, a four stroke engine having bad carbon build up worst than a two stroke and it's not a failed part, I said to myself it's not a failed part cause it's a failed engine) at this point I really don't have any choice but to fork over the $ to get it fix (deep inside me I know this is not a fix it's a band aid and not a cure) cause eventually if this engine fails the more toyota won't pay for it they will just say the engine fails because of carbon build up the piston cracked cause it hit the carbon build up.I then asked before I forked over the $ what happens if after they clean up the carbon build up I still have the problem he said he's pretty sure it will be fix if not they guarantee their work for up to a year irregardless of mileage. I then said I understand that but the van is only a little bit over 3 yrs. old you mean to say every 3 years I'll have to pay $192. He then said well I can't answer that ?. So needless to say I had them do the job and guess what ? I still have the same problem.
    I called back and told them I still have the same problem. This time I asked if that carbon build up diagnosis was by his tech or the toyota tech line. He said it's from both. Also this time I firmly told him, it's a piston slap and explained to him, when the engine is cold the cylinder or the piston is contracted so there's a lot more clearance meaning the piston ring might not be sealing or fitting inside the bore than it's supposed to so upon start up it's allowing more oil to get in the combustion chamber and because there's a lot more oil being burnt than supposed to it's causing the carbon build up however when the engine gets warmed up the block expands thereby sealing the bore real good and the problem goes away cumulatively over a period of time carbon builds up and it will also ruin the emmissions system. Now because it's only in cylinder #3 the oil that's getting burnt does not reflect when you check the distick. He said then after this that Toyota does not think it's piston slap which I then replied of course why would they, this will involved at least a thousand dollars Toyota already made their money off of me why would they spend money on my behalf. He was quite for a while and then he said he'll talk to his manager and he'll have the tech from Toyota look at the van in other words he'll call me again next week to let me know when the tech will be in to look at my van.
    This is really getting worse, depending on how this gets resolved i'm thinking this van and my 04runner will be my last Toyota. I usually keep cars around 4 no more than 5 years. So I went to that GM auto show in motion they have come a long ways from my 95blazer So was the Hondas I test drove and Oddessey boy did it drove nice my best friend just ditch their 02 Sienna for this Oddessey , even their cars had made significant progress from my 95accord. My uncle and cousin just about 2-3 months ago ditched Toyota and went to Acura now all three of them are heckling me to get out of Toyota (i've always had one since I started driving from the tercel, paseo and the Camry's . When I graduated college i had two cars one a Toyota and then i experimented with other brands (mostly leasing other brands)
    Until next time( sorry if this is too long) i'll keep you folks posted.
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,562
    "The belt tightened up around his waist and started to constrict his breathing, my wife had to call security and have them cut the seat belt strap to get him out."

    What happened is that he (or your wife) pulled the belt all the way out, whereupon it goes in non-automatic, "retract-only" mode. That's a safety featuer used when securing infant seats. All US seat belts in he past decade or so have this feature.

    What I don't get is why she had to cut the belt, rather than push the release button and release the silly thing? Either the belt was twised in such a way that the buckle wasn't accessible -- can happen in the way back, but not in the 2nd row captain's chairs -- or she panicked. Good thing they got the kid out.

    I don't think there's a problem with the belt design or mechanism.

    As far as valve stem seals, common problem on many cars, but haven't heard about problems with the 3.0 v6....

  • 32valveuser32valveuser Posts: 31
    The old carbon build-up line. It seems that is the fix all for anything. At least you got farther than I with this problem. 34 degrees here today and had the tap. Hang in there, good luck, and please try to keep us updated on what you find. I would like to get this fixed on my car also.

    2001 62,000 miles any others besides us 5 I think
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    when the engine is cold the engine makes a noise, somewhat similar to tappets. when its warm its quiet. I think this is normal behaviour. The transmission also delays the shifts which also i'm told is design intent. 00 with 82k kms.
  • rlee2rlee2 Posts: 4
    Hi deepan:

    I really appreciate your comment. Would you please be more specific. Can you provide any realiable source where I can confirm your comment? My van (03, 18000Km) has the same problem. I took it to my dealer and left their overnight. Two top technicians in the dealership heard the noise and they don't know what it is. They claimed that they have never seen such engine noise problem before.
    deepan, I really appreciate your help. If I can get same commnet from Toyota techical support department, I will suggest that Toyota should put this "engine noise" and "transmission lagging" features on their car specification cause some customers like me don't like that kind of noise. I will definitely ask for my money back.

    thank you and looking forward to hearing from you.

  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    i cant think of any specific sites right now but this is from what ive read in the past and experienced over the yrs owning cars. This is not a sienna specific issue its more of a general issue. you might be better off doing some searches with words like, "cold engine, delay in shifting etc.. There is also another sienna specific site which can give you a lot more detailed answers. do a search on siennaclub and you'll find it. If i come across specific info i will post it.

    The only thing that is a bit specific to the sienna (3.0 v6) engine is that it doesnt take abuse very well. maintenance is a must. do the regular oil chnages and fluid changes and you should be fine. The early ones had PCV issues but 01 onwards the clearance was increased.
  • rlee2rlee2 Posts: 4
    Hi alnole3:

    My van has the same noise as yours. I would like to know what you found out.


  • ckrckr Posts: 1
    I bought a 2001 sienna XLE V6 in oct.'04 with 30K miles on it. I used premium 91 octane gasoline for about 4 months and then I switched to normal unleaded about 2 months back because of the recent surge in gas prices. The manual says the recommended fuel is unleaded gasoline, and then it says for improved Engine performance use 91 octane. Now, my Sienna's Engine feels rough and there is loss of power and is more noisy and sluggish than before. I did not noise any significant drop in mileage, though. Does using normal unleaded cause damage to the engine or the issue is only loss of power? Should I switch back to 91 octane? Any comments appreciated.
  • My Sienna 2001 power sliding door bounces back to the open position when we try to close it. I read in earlier posts that the rail needs to be adjusted to fix this problem. We don't have a warrantee (bought it used). Is there anyway to fix this on my own without taking it to the dealer?
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    i used 89 octane for the first yr. A waste of money. 87 Octane is all u need. you might want to add a can of fuel injector cleaner. do regular maintenance. I cant stress this enough. Infact i have an Avalon as well (identical engine) and both use 87. Ofcourse the Avalon is a bit faster off the mark because its carrying a few hundred pounds less.
  • jlewis99jlewis99 Posts: 2
    I've seen several people have this issue here and the response is to either
    1) change the battery (is this valid? can it be this simple?
    2) Change the A/F ratio sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

    Here it mentions Bank 1 Sesor 1 being on the back, firewall side and requiring a special tool to replace (what kind of tool)?

    This seems to be different depending on year and size engine. Is this correct?

    I called the parts department and they mentioned two different parts. 89467-41030 and 89467-41040. They said P1130 refers to 89467-41040 and is located in the front, which contradicts what I have been reading. I'm assuming is due to being a 2001 and not a 2000 sienna.

    Thanks for you help! I don't want to get the wrong sensor if it can be avoided.

  • scottimusscottimus Posts: 4
    Hello all, just found this site. My wife and I recently bought a 2000 Toyota Sienna LE and it didn't come with an owners manual, there is a light in the gauges that looks like a cross section of a tire with 2 arrows point towards each other, and there is a button down between the door and the steering column that has the same symbol and says "Set" Can anyone tell me what the light and button is for?

    Thanks in advance...
  • jlewis99jlewis99 Posts: 2
    Yes, this means that a tire is low. If you check your tires and they are not low, reset the sensor by hold in that button for a few seconds with the key on.
  • santacruz1santacruz1 Posts: 11
    That is the low tire pressure warning light and the "set" button is to reset the tire pressure system after an event like anytime you take a wheel off the van. You have to look at the owner's manual to see how the reset is done because it's not as simple as just pressing the button.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    An owners manual is a good thing to have, but a better thing to actually read and consult periodically. It's also a good thing to have when you turn around and sell the vehicle. ;)

    You might want to call a local dealership...Toyota's web site indicates you can contact the Toyota Materials Distribution Center 1-800-622-2033 for documentation. You may be able to find something like this on EBay or from a store dealing with owner's manuals for vehicles.

    I'm not sure what will be the least expensive route to an owner's manual. Good luck.
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    make sure the tires are at the correct pressure. Turn on Iginition and hold the "set" button for 5 secs. This will reset the light.
  • paul6paul6 Posts: 14
    Need to add something to aid in driving at night. Dark roads and Sienna's headlights don't make it, especially on a rainy night. Any recommendations for additional front lighting? Any caveats about wiring?

    Also found there are metal "shields" in the overhead lights on my 2000. Simply removing them by snapping off the plastic light cover and popping out the thin metal plate attached to it (with a small hole in it to let the light through) greatly increased interior lighting. Sorta made a spotlight like a floodlight.
  • paul6paul6 Posts: 14
    It's not changing the battery, as you post, but disconnecting it awhile to clear the CE code(s).

    The special tool you question accomodates the wire that comes out of the sensor. It makes R&R easier, but a standard wrench will work.
  • nickshamsnickshams Posts: 4
    I just bought Toyota Sienna 98 , The guy give me the list of dealer operation code and little description what he did last six year , I need more information about operation code like 20TOZZ21 = A.V.R I dont know and dealer also not help me , Could you please help me , I am in Toronto , Or if you know the web let me know.
  • scottimusscottimus Posts: 4
    Thanks all for the responses, that is what I thought it was and I do plan on buying an owner's manual, just haven't done it yet :)
  • fatherof3fatherof3 Posts: 2
    user777, tried the eraser trick and it seemed to work. Thanks for the suggestion!
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