Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, I know what you mean.

    The average car payment today is over $400, so it would take only about 6 months to recover your investment in the trans.

    It's probably worth it, actually. As long as you have faith in the new mechanic that this will be a long-term solution.

    I just had to plop down over $1000 on a 1993 Miata. It was due for timing belt, water pump, and a cooling system service (symptom was overheating).

    Still, it's running like a champ now and in a few months I'm sure I'll be glad I fixed it.
  • unicronunicron Posts: 2
    I am considering purchasing (my first vehicle purchase) a '99 Toyota Sienna with over 200K miles on it. It runs extremely well and has very few issues, except that it has a nasty habit of dying when it idles.

    This happens after about 30 minutes of driving and continues until the car cools down for about 2 hours after driving it. The owners are real gear heads (I've known them for a while now) and they seem to think that it is due to a dirty intake manifold.

    I'm no car expert but it seems that this would not necessarily be the case. This is a major purchase for me and I just want to make sure I don't buy a car that needs a couple of thousand of dollars in repairs because I can't afford that right now.

    Does the dirty intake manifold seem like it is the reason the car dies when it idles?
  • jprocjproc Posts: 135
    don't buy the car.I haven't a clue of why it dies when it idles and obviously your "gear head" friends don't either else they would have fixed it.200k is a lot of miles on any car
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    RUN don't walk, a "dirty manifold" sounds like a good way to disguise a slugdy engine. The 1MZ 3.0l V6 was prone to sludge.

    Run as fast as you can in the other direction. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200.
  • goomba1goomba1 Posts: 20
    Any make, any vehicle with that many miles ... you've got to count on $1-2k per year on repairs. If you're lucky maybe $500. I did all the work myself on my 2001 Sienna, and spent over $1,000 on various sensors that failed in the last year at 110-120,000 miles (O2, MAF, Air/fuel ratio). Now it's running fantastic again -- but I know there will be more problems. In your case, a problem only when warm doesn't sound like engine sludge to me. If you like the van, get it checked out by an independent mechanic.
  • markie3markie3 Posts: 4
    What is the worst that can hapen if you don't replace struts? What is a fair price? 2000 Sienna.
  • jprocjproc Posts: 135
    struts are expensive.I think I paid about 650ish when I replaced them on my 2000 and that was at least 4 years ago.
  • yatesjoyatesjo Posts: 186
    Struts are a critical part of the vehicle handling and are important for keeping the tires in contact with the road. Superficially the ride will be bouncier and the steering sloppy, however you will also see longer braking distances and worse, if you are forced into an evasive maneuver like an emergency lane change worn struts may cause you to lose control of the vehicle.

    Struts aren't cheap, but it takes money to keep a vehicle functioning properly on the road. If you try to cheap out then you not only shorten the life of the vehicle but take a risk with your life and the lives of those on the road around you.
  • I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna Symphony V6 with about 135,000 miles on it. On long trips (about 450 miles) at freeway speeds, it will start to vibrate at some point on the trip. The vibration starts gradually in the steering wheel and builds until the car shakes so much one cannot see anything in the rearview mirrors, the car is shaking so badly. If we apply the brakes to pull over and stop, the vibration gets much worse. However, once the car has come to a stop, we can start driving again immediately and the car will drive as smooth as can be with no vibration at all. This has been going on for over a year and several thousand miles. The dealer can find nothing wrong with the car. We have rebalanced the tires, and then replaced and balanced the tires. We bought the car new and it has had all the scheduled maintenance. The car still vibrates. What is the likely cause?
  • yatesjoyatesjo Posts: 186
    If it takes 450 miles to develop the vibration. That's like 6hrs driving minimum so no wonder the dealer can't duplicate. Take a hint and get out, walk around, relieve yourself and drink more water.

    Now, if it takes something less than 6 hours, like say 1 hour, then here are some thoughts off the top of my head:
    How long is immediately, 5s or 5 minutes? If it were something like brakes brakes overheating, I would think that it would take some time to cool down before the situation cleared itself. Do you get any vibration when you brake normally that might indicate a warped rotor?

    Resonance building up might indicate a worn out damper in the strut. Have you had the struts and suspension checked out?
  • claynclayn Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Sienna with the same problem. Spent $100 on new rotor, pads and caliper but still no fix. Happens randomly and more often when the weather is hot. Did you ever figure out what the problem is? Something seems to be applying the brakes on this one wheel enough to cause the problem but what, the ABS? Also took it to the dealer and they can't find the problem!
  • from PBS (Public Broadcasting Service) which is like public TV (the folks who do Sesame Street) but for the radio. They are AWESOME and if you go to their website, they have a link to which offers you advice from a mechanic. It says you only pay if you are satisfied. I have never heard of them and cartalk never mentions them during their radio show...but I don't think that car talk would have that ad if they were a scam. Also, my antivirus program gives that website a "green" rating meaning that it is safe.

    If you click on the contact us link of cartalk, it shows that you can e-mail them. I don't know if this is for car advice or just send in a comment.

    Also, you could listen to cartalk on your local PBS radio station. It is EXTREMELY entertaining. It is like a comedy show but the info is super accurate and often amazing.
  • louvalouva Posts: 1
    I have this exact same issue with my 2002 Sienna. I'd like to sell my car, but I feel that this vibration will occur. I've had so many different opinions on this, from replacing the entire braking system to suspension. There has to be an answer. My car too has about 135K miles on it. Did anyone get a true answer on this? I'm desparate!
  • Sienna has 112K miles. Tires, brakes, rotors are fine. Has vibration even with slight throttle between 30-50 MPH. Back off throttle vibration disappears. Anyone have any half shaft replacement or problems.
  • bee247bee247 Posts: 1
    I do have the same problem, mine vibrates really bad at 65-70 mph, in the steering wheel and floor board, no shop seems to know what is causing it. I did everything like control arms, links, outer tie rods,ball joints,axles, mounts, alignment, tire balance, rotated, even swap it wit a different van and its still there. My van has 174k on it.My van is at a shop right now and they can't determine wat the cause is.I would like to know the answer to this also if anyone knows, I will update if shop finds my answer. Thanks
  • I hope you have figured this out by now.. But this can be an issue that can be caused by corrosion in the brake fluid.. this can be fixed by replacing the rubber seals and replacing the fluid.. if there is corrosion in the fluid what will happen is, on long trips the fluid will expand causing the calipers to drag, which will heat up the brakes, the rotors, the hubs, and cause bearing wear as well.. over time it will cause a violent vibration due to the increased heat.. which makes sense why when you stop, then go again it takes place after a shorter amount of time.. I would have your brake system rubber bushing, washers, and grommets replaced. I would also have your brake fluid flushed, and have your wheel bearings checked if you have not found the issue yet.. Best of luck..
  • Hello everyone, i'm actually having the same exact issue. Was wanting to know what actaully took care of the issue. Desperate to get this fixed. Thanks.
  • gedgoudaslgedgoudasl Posts: 21
    See #7. Replaced CV joints rides like new. Vibration gone.
  • Thanks for the respond geogoudasl; but my issue is similar to desert7650 and bee247, instead of you. If any can please provide a solution. Thanks again.
  • We finally did find the problem and it may have been caused by the brake fluid having corrosion in it as suggested by kitcloudkick3r. However, by the time we flushed and replaced the brake fluid, it did no good, in fact things got worse. Perhaps too much damage had already been done. What the dealer finally decided was that the master cylinder was locking up after applying the brakes. By this time the pads, rotors, shoes, and drums were badly worn. He replaced the master cylinder, brake pads, rotors, rear brake shoes and I don't remember what else, and turned the rear brake drums. He also replaced the brake fluid although a mechanic friend and I had done that a month before. This was done at the beginning of March 2012. We have not had any problems since.
Sign In or Register to comment.