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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    Could be...if you are going to replace pads soon, just add enough brake fluid to get to a level that will turn the light can probably just see if the level is low by looking since I think the reservoir is a see through plastic. If you fill the reservior to the full line, when you compress the caliper pistons to install the new pads, that will force enough brake fluid back up the line to overflow. One option is to bleed and/or replace the brake fluid when changing the pads to obtain the correct level.
  • kobokokoboko Posts: 34
    Thanks for the input guys. After temps warmed up to around 10F yesterday, the light went off. The fluid level is just around the add mark, maybe tad bit higher, car only has 43K miles so i wasnt thinking i would be needing pads so soon, but maybe i guess. at cold temps the fluid contracts, which could have triggered the light to come on, or maybe the hand brake switch was stuck with such cold temps (-10F with -30 windchills). I'll check the pads over the weekend when i get some free time, my wife usually drives the truck. This Trooper has been almost flawless from the day we bought it (6 yrs now), & we hope to put many more happy miles on it! Believe it or not, we have had more issues with our 06' Odyssey than the Trooper-- Honda USA's QC is really falling. I think the fact the Trooper was assembled in Japan made a big difference.
  • When I bought my '98 Trooper last month and the first few times I drove it, I could have sworn that the Fog Light Switch Indicator light was green. Now I see a somewhat white indicator light on the switch. The fog lights themselves seem to both be working OK. Did I just imagine I saw green before?

    Also, I'm usually pretty good at figuring out what things are used for, but can anybody tell me the purpose of the 1 inch wide, half inch high half inch deep depression on the bottom lip of the instrument cluster?

    It's directly beneath the fuel gauge. The only thing I can think of is it could be a placeholder for a PTT microphone for a CB, or some other accessory that glues into the opening. Any ideas???

    Not a big problem I know, but stuff like this bugs me. :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could be for an old aftermarket alarm system.

  • csh3csh3 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2000 Trooper and during the test drive the rear wheel TOD indicators were solid green. Now when I start the engine, the rear wheel indicators flash and then the check light illuminates. How is the TOD supposed to work? Should all four wheel indicators illuminate on the TOD? Is there a TOD switch? Is the check indicator and critical problem or safety hazard? The Isuzu dealer in my area states that it could take 2 weeks to get my vehicle serviced. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I really like this Trooper and hope the problems isn't major. My husband is mechanically inclined so maybe he can correct the issue. Thanks again.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, I have an older Trooper but there is a lot of discussion on the TOD system, Torque on Demand. Basically, there is a module under the seat that monitors the prop shaft speeds between the front and rear props. A sensor for the front and one for the rear monitor the revolutions and when a large enough difference exists, as induced by wheel slippage, the module tells the transfer case clutch to engage (or Not) and distribute power proportionately to the axles. Bottom line is check the connectors on the sensors which are on the transfer case. The sensors themselves are quite expensive. The module can set a code which in your trooper can only be read by a tech 2 or similar. If the indicators flash, there is probably a code set. As far as I know, there is no switch, but maybe someone else will know for sure. As for safety, I don't think it is dangerous to drive, but you lose the automatic engagement of the transfer case, and I don't know what that can mean to driveability. Hope this gets the information flowing for you. If you search the "trooper" forum using the search link you will see a lot more about this option. Good luck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If you hit the auto-4wd switch you can put it in 2wd. See if you can do that, also put it in neutral and use the lever to put it in 4wd-lo to engage it. See if that clears up the check TOD light.

  • let me tell you exactly how to fix this problem....

    when you hit the incline -- everyone in the car needs rock back and forth -- in unison of course. the momentum should keep you moving forward. :)

    or you could move to KS like I did...

    I had an '87 back in the day and we'd go from Denver to Craig once a month and trust me getting passed by semis' was the norm..
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554

    I'm looking to answer a couple questions today while my parents' Trooper (a vehicle I owned for its first 7 years) is being evaluated at a local independent shop.

    1998 Trooper with TOD, approx 130k miles, good mechanical condition.

    1. Does the following sound like a transmission problem?

    2. If so, what if anything can be done to fix the problem?

    3. How much would YOU sink into trans work on a vehicle that is probably worth $3,000-4,000 tops? The body is in decent shape but there's a small dent above right rear taillight and some rust under the bottom of the rear window. Interior - everything still works including the 6 CD changer and the cloth upholstery is in really good shape for a 9 year old vehicle.

    Few weeks ago, Dad has Trooper transmission serviced. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the shop did a power flush blow out old fluid using a machine, etc.) against my recommendation. Only prior trans service was a drain adn fill around 70k miles.

    Past few days, Mom reports vehicle driving funny. I drove it briefly on Saturday, and there's definitely something wrong. Vehicle lurches accelerating from 20 to 40mph and at higher speeds, says Dad. Also notice a pretty loud whomping recurrent noise from rear axle/wheels. Not sure if this whole thing might be some sort of brake issue, or multiple issues (seems unlikely), or what.

    Thanks in advance for the help. I really love this truck even though it isn't mine any more, and I'm hoping it can be made right without breaking the bank.
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    Check the transmission oil level to eliminate low oil level in the transmission. Check the Transmission Mode Switch, also known as the Range Switch, if it has never been changed, it could be the problem. Search this forum for the
    Mode switch for more details. The loud thumb could be the Slip yolk needs some grease. Slip yolk is part of the Drive Shaft assembly. Hope this helps and Good Luck
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Supposedly, the problem was actually a bad wire (spark plug wire?) to one of the cylinders and it was misfiring.

    I'll wait and see if that is the only problem; shop is replacing plugs and wires today, charging my Dad only $190 for everything including the labor to investigate the problem. This seems like a really reasonable price.

    I'm still concerned that the trans power flush could have caused some issues -- not sure what, if anything, can be done at this point to reduce chances of trans problems caused by the power flush.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    If you think the power flush may have dislodged gunk, you could try another fluid change or two and hope it "thins the clots out some." From the comments around here, it seems that most failures occur pretty soon after the flush though. Or maybe people don't associate a failure with a flush they got a year before.

    Instead of pulling transmissions, maybe Aamco will come out with a balloon gizmo - angioplasty for your tranny. :P
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    There are lot of opinions on whether to have a Flush or have Drain and refill. Most of the time the recommendation is against the flush, particularly for high mileage cars which did not have regular drain and refills as the flush will remove the built up layers of lubrication. On my 98 Rodeo,Auto 2WD regularly having drain and refill every 30K, sometime immediatly after having the drain and refill the Transmission settles down to the new oil after few hundered miles and have some slips from 2nd to 4th etc few times. This is purely my own individual experience and opinion. Hence, you might want to wait a while before deciding that there is really a problem. Glad to know it was only a bad spark plug wire.
  • offgasoffgas Posts: 2
    G'day one and all.I am from Victoria, Australia and have been having a problem with my 2000 3.5l V6 Jackaroo (Trooper)'surging/misfiring' after being driven for about an hour. The check engine light does not come on, dealership is reporting no faults logged and problem is overcome by cycling engine off/on. This problem only started happening after I had the motor fully rebuilt at 100000kms. I'll give you a bit of background info leading up to motor rebuild and what I have done since. Let's see .... bought vehicle in July last year, August saw us take it on an adventure through the Alpine regions and highplains. One particular track had 20+ river crossings but on crossing #3 I drove through a slightly deeper fjord and found the air intake was not that well protected. Yep, hydraulicaly locked the motor due to water in the intake. Motor would not turn at all. After clearing out cylinders af said water the motor was making a very loud noise. Towed car home and upon inspection found i had bent #6 conrod. Removed motor, had it rebuilt and put back in myself. When putting the intake manifold back on (after about a month) found there was still about 1 liter of water in the intake manifold. Motor started up with no problems and I thought I was done. September last year-- first warmish day of Spring and car starts 'surging/misfiring' when revs get to 2500-3000rpm.Was doing this when car was stopped and just putting foot on acc. pedal. Limped car home and one week later problem happened again on 30degC day. Limped car home and took to dealer the next day and of course no faults logged and car running perfectly. For the next 4 months every time car was driven on 30degC+ day for over an hour problem would occur again. Then one day 40degC problem started happening and motor eventually stopped. Cycled ignition off/on, motor started and everytime revs reached 2500rpm car started bucking like a bull at a rodeo. cycle ignition and o.k. till revs got to 2500 and so it went. Another time problem starts happening, limp car to dealership, turn car off whilst getting service manager to come for a drive, of course no problems with service guy in car. March this year checked fuel flow from return line under car (next to fuel filter). Getting about 300ml/15secs. SPEC is 'at least 380ml/15secs from filter. Changed fuel filter (the one removed was that dirty there is still a brown stain on my driveway 4 weeks later) and rechecked fuel flow. Now getting about 370ml/15secs from return line. This is with motor not running and pump bridged at relay.Should I recheck the flow from filter or replace fuel pump as I am not getting spec flow from return line. (with motor not running the flow from filter should be the same as the flow from the return line) How could this be the cause and why does the problem only happen after an hour of driving and clear by cycling the ingnition off/on??????Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could be the ECU?

  • offgasoffgas Posts: 2
    Is there any way that this can be tested?(apart from waiting for it to completely shag itself)
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    Since you have rebuilt the motor, make sure all the cylinders are at the correct settings with the timing belt, I heard some cylinders could be 360 degress off, a indication of sluggish performance. Check Fuel Pressure regulator, Idle Valve Sensor, Manifold Apsolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor. 2500 rpm noise is usually associated with a bad Timing Belt Tensioner pulley and the Serpentine Belt Tensioner Pulley could be bad. Hope this helps
  • lowridahlowridah Posts: 1
    my SUV wont start or even crank
    what should i do
    the lights come on and everything else works but the truck wont start
    somebody help me please
  • desimonesdesimones Posts: 18
    I have a 2000 Trooper. Can you explain what exactly is meant by a 'grade logic' transmission. I am having a problem with my trans. error light/module when pulling a trailer. How does this transmission adapt for extra towing capacity and could this be related to my problem?
  • desimonesdesimones Posts: 18
    FYI, approximately two years ago I read an item with regards to modifying the OEM oil filter and threaded oil adapter to improve the oil filter and cooling capacity. I purchased and replaced the the OEM threaded adapter, with one that fits the ford V6 ranger (96-2000?)oil filter. This unit provides twice the capacity of the standard Isuzu filter (increases oil capacity by approx. 3/4 quart). I then changed to the higher end 'extended life' filter (7,500 miles) and Mobile One Gold (extended life) synthetic oil. I now change my oil/filter twice a year (Spring & Fall)and the oil never appears dirty.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Do you have the error code number? Post it to get some more help. Is there a driver selectable towing switch as well?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    I have a '00 Trooper LS. I believe the Grade Logic is a means that the tranny senses you are going downhill and applies some engine braking as you would by downshifting a manual tranny. Many automatic transmissions would pretty much just freewheel going downhill and allow your vehicle to gain speed and to slow down that acceleration you would need to either downshift or use the brakes.

    I have felt this engine/transmission braking a number of times on a downhill slope.

    I don't know if this would have anything to do with your trans. error light when towing.

    Does this happen when you are towing in D (overdrive)? Many times it is recommended to tow in 3rd expecially if you are towing a 'load' nearing the capacity of the vehicle.

    Trooper IIRC is rated at 5000 lbs with load distribution hitch or 3500 with a standard class III hitch. How much are you towing?

  • richf1968richf1968 Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    thanks in advance for any replies...

    I have a 2001 Trooper with 101K miles on it. it's been running great and I just had a few 'routine' maintenance items taken care of.
    spark plugs
    air filter
    fuel filter
    pcv valve
    timing belt
    water pump
    serpentine belt
    egr valve

    so, I'm driving home today and everything is fine. I have a 20 miles commute that is a mix of highway and side road. I exit the highway and have approx 1 mile left to get home and the check transmission light comes on. Also, when I press the gas pedal I heard and clicking sound coming from underneath and could no accelerate past 30 mph.
    I made it home and parked it in the driveway.....

    And ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


  • richf1968richf1968 Posts: 3
    Weird.....just went out to check it out and it ran fine. I took it around the block but that was all.

    I'd still like to try and find out what is going on.

  • desimonesdesimones Posts: 18
    It is a 2000 Trooper, which was the year that they manufactured the heavier trans with the 'grade logic' system. I have an after-market trailer/hitch which is bolted onto the frame and both are rated at 5,000 lbs. The trailer weight is 1,200 lbs., with a gross of 3,200 lbs. As with a bike, I wouldn't think that starting in 3rd. gear (either going up hill or with a heavy load) would be the recommended choice. The dealer said that it was a trailer hitch wiring problem, which blew the trans module. The error light comes on when I pull the trailer, even with the harness disconnected. Also, I was told that the trans would be stuck in a single gear if that were the case. Thanks, Dennis
  • desimonesdesimones Posts: 18
    There might be some similarity as with my posted problem. As I had responded to user 'wlbrown9', I was informed that one thing that one of the symtoms (starting with the 2000 Troopers)is of a faulty trans module. This causes the vehicle to lock in one gear (limiting acceleration). Did you notice whether your trans was able to shift during when the problem occurred?
  • Anyone have a link to this information?

    I am interested in installing a Pure Power cleanable permanent oil filter. Their web site doesn't have any trooper-compatible filters. But there is a model designed to fit the Ranger. :D
  • desimonesdesimones Posts: 18
    I don't have the re-usable oil filter that you are referring to, but I had converted my my oil adapter (filter thread mount) to accept the the larger V6 Ford Ranger (which I believe is a Fram PH8). So you wouldn't have to worry about it fitting a Trooper filter! I found the adapter on one of these Isuzu forum sites.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    As with a bike, I wouldn't think that starting in 3rd. gear (either going up hill or with a heavy load) would be the recommended choice.

    I believe if you use 3 instead of drive it starts in LOW, then second and tops out at 3rd but does not go into overdrive.

    I've got a Hidden Hitch brand aftermarket hitch, class III. It is rated at 5000 lbs with weight distribution system, 3500 lbs without. I think I remember seeing another model that may have been rated at 5000 lbs without the weight distribution setup. I think the Trooper will handle the 5000 lb rating without a problem.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I think the two tow ratings for the same hitch are with and without trailer brakes. I would guess 2000lb. without trailer brakes and 5000 or 5500 on some models with trailer brakes.
    I have found the Trooper with the way the rear axle is held solidly in place makes a very stable tow vehicle.
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