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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • Firstly i live in ireland and 12 months ago bought what i taught was a clean jeep a 1995 trooper no major problems bar a clutch fluid leek.
    3 months ago the turbo blew which is look of the draw all the same cost 1400 dollars fitted.
    The problem im having at the moment has me broke and my mechanic lost. sent the jeep in to get belts fan,alternator etc tightened and a new back box fitted a few other bits and pieces which came to 900 dollars.
    since i took it back it cuts out as you take your foot of the gas and will not idle sometimes it will but eventually dies. duz any one have any advice. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :sick:
  • Is the idle problem only when the diesel engine is warmed up?
  • NO the engine is very hard to start in the mornings is turning over but takes ages to fire the engine will sometimes idle but at some stage rpm just drops and engine dies. so i am pumping the rpm up with the throttle control knob keep in mind this is only an issue since the visit to the macanicks and before this i never had to touch the throttle control and it always started perfect even wen cold
  • dand1dand1 Posts: 1
    I have oil leaking into the spark plugs,all six plugs will be covered with oil.any ideas.
    now blows black smoke and fuel mileage cut in half and the gas has small explosions you can feel and hear
  • The 4wd shifter on my 86 Trooper shed it's 4wd shifter ball pattern decal about 15 years ago, the drivers manual doesn't have a good photo of it, and the sunvisor drawings have faded into oblivion over the years.
    I'd appreciate it if someone would draw the relative positions of NEUTRAL LOW and HIGH ranges for me. I've rarely used 4wd except when I'm in the mud behind the barn, and it pulls pretty good in first gear in whatever range I'm in.
    This thing is no spring chicken anymore - the clutch was last changed in 1994 but the AC works and it's still pretty tight after 275,000 miles. This March, I'm getting a "new" daily driver - an '87 with only 42,000 original miles that has most likely never been in 4wd or even driven across a lawn. My "Big Blue Bus" will have it's top cut off and an awning fitted, and it will live its days out in our horse pastures and fire roads hauling feed and hay and farm wagons. Other folks with little or no experience will be using it, so I'd much rather know for certain that it's in low range.
  • Please all - I need suggestions. Someone close to me idled my 2002 Trooper in a closed garaged for about 3 hours - at best guess.. - assume the worst just please don't don't ask for specifics. Back from the police - here's whats wrong: TOD check light on - feels like 4wd is engaged. Check engine light on, lots of connectors on the left side (exhaust side) melted. I think is the rustproofing on the bottom is fried and just flakes off. The parking brake is stuck on - handle just flops up and down, a friend yanked something underneath and it went off, but pulling it up again got it stuck and flopping again. It has 52000, so its still under the extended warranty. What should I do??? Take it straight to the dealer - they'd tell me it was abused and not cover anything right? All it did was idle and get very very hot - so hot some of the plastic rivets in the fender melted into stringy stuff. Does anyone know what can really be affected by this and how best to get into selling shape? I personally can never drive again - so its a matter of paying off the loan balance - fixing for as cheap as I can - and selling it. Can I fix some stuff so the dealer will check the major stuff under warranty??? I just confused - need help. Any thing would be appreciated.

  • russlarussla Posts: 74
    Sorry to hear about your loss.

    Here's some food for thought.

    I would check on what your comprehensive insurance will cover, so call your auto insurance company, also call the friend's, if they had a policy, to see what they're liability or comp covers.

    I suspect Isuzu will deny any claims, because when it got hot, it wasn't turned off, the trouble lights were essentially ignored so that is abuse from there POV

    The parts that put the parking brake on, have to be metal, so it works in an emergency, but the parts that release it, don't, so since it was so hot that it was melting plastic parts in the enginebay,it could have melted something above the TC too. I also suspect that the heat burnt up a few electric parts, this may also be the cause of the TOD issue, as the sensors could be fried.

    If you get no assistance from insurance, you'll have to start fixing on your own, so...
    Because it got so hot, I would change the TOD fluid, and the tranny fluid too, and it wouldn't hurt to add a cleaner to the oil and change it out.

    Lastly, and this is the probably last thing on your mind, if the worst happened, one might claim against the estate if they really were burdened by the $$ damage to the rig.

    Best Regards
  • jgarsjgars Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Trooper S w/auto trans. The car has 78k miles. In November I took the car to have a 60k mile service done which hadnt been done and the car had 75k miles at the time. They did the job. Last week i had been driving and noticed that the oil light was lit so i took the car to the dealer and they said that the problem was that the car was using more oil than before and that all i needed to do was to check the oil level. Today i was driving and i began to hear a "clunk" noise from the engine or from where i believe the noise is coming from. The noise got worse and luckily i was close to my house. Does anyone know what the problem can be. I feel that the service rep. was full of bs.
  • This may sound ridiculous, but i just got a new motor put in my '01 Trooper by the dealer near me. When i got it back, the dealer told me that for the first 1000 miles i shouldn't drive the car over 60mph. This seemed very weird to me and i was just wondering if this is legit or if i should just consider the guy out of his right mind.
  • That was how the engines were years ago, the "break-in period" (below 55mph and variable speeds not all break-in miles at one engine speed or load) is meant to allow the piston rings and other parts to mesh together and wear down a little so the piston rings seal up as best they can. An improperly broken-in engine long ago, would tend to burn oil through its whole life. I'd follow that restriction and look up more about break in procedures on line and send an email to Isuzu to ask if this applies to your engine. I think most newer engines get some break-in hours in the factory. Johnson outboard motors use a different piston and cylinder technology that have very tight tolerances and they sell not needing a break-in period as an advantage over otehr engine makers.
    1000 miles will go by very quickly, I drove over 2000 just last week.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Not a ridiculous question at all. As Boxtrooper says, it is unusual in this day and age to have special break in for newer motors. It is common practice, except in high performance engines, to use non-synthetic oil before the first oil change and to vary the RPM's of the motor for several hundred miles of driving before hitting a freeway on a long trip. The tolerances are so tight now on motor construction now that the dealers advice won't hurt, but you should consult Isuzu for a definitive answer.
  • Hi I have a 88' trooper that will not start and won't do anything, the radio won't even come on, no power what so ever. We just put a new batt. and starter in it but still no power. Anyone have any advice or anything to help us out??? :sick:
  • Will any of the lights come on (head lights brake lights dome lights)?
    I would have a look at the fuse box and then the ignition switch, there might be a relay after the ignition switch to enable all the stuff that comes on when the ignition switch is turned on.
    Have a look at your battery cables. Put one probe from your volt meter on battery positive termial and the other on battery negative terminal, write down that voltage. Leave the positive battery terminal connected to your volt meter and move the other voltmeter lead to an exposed metal part of the engine, if you can't get the same voltage as before then you might have broken or corroded inside battery cables.
    Keep posting results I like a puzzle.
  • We have already checked all that stuff, theres no relay after the ignition, we took the dash apart and looked. And the battery cables are brand new, as is the battery. No lights come on at all not even the inside light, theres nothing. Anything else you can think of though will be very helpful. We're at our wits end on this!! :confuse:
  • :cry: OK i've been thru H*** and bach with this car we tracked it to the ECM bought an ECM thru someone we found online well the first they sent didn't at all so they sent us another one which did work but only for 2 days(In the ECM there is a Memory Calibrator(Smaller Chip) Unit and a Prm Unit(bigger chip)that you are suppose to pull out and replace with your car original ones which we did with the first ECM that didn't work.. with the second we changed both out then on the off chance just changed the Prom Unit and used the Memory Calibrator that was sent in the box and for some odd reason it ran. We were of course happy but like i said only ran for 2 days... in th middle of all of that i sent my original memory calibrator back to the company in one of the ECM's(core price) which didn't work anyhow..anyhow brings me up to date with the company having just sent me another ECM and aaarrrrgghhhh my car is still not running any help at all??? by the wat not even a chech engine light :cry: thanx Lisa
  • My 94 Trooper overall is a great truck! It's been a great vehicle to own the past few months. The truck runs great when it is cold but does not when the temperature is above 40 degrees outside. Yesterday after driving 17 miles on the highway from the burbs to the city, the vehicle got very sluggest once I jump off the highway. I had to rev the engine to around 4000-5000 rpm to get it to move. I thought the clutch was failing. A few block later and three traffic lights the truck would not move forward at all. Reverse barely worked too. So I call a AAA. After waiting 40 minutes for AAA, I decided to try driving again. The truck began to drive like nothing was ever wrong. The clutch felt okay. The rpm was normal. So is it really the clutch at fault or is it something else?


  • I was looking at putting slightly bigger tires on my 2000 trooper. I wanted to know if anyone out there knew how big I could go before I have to start lifting it and cutting up wheel wells and fenders.
  • I have heard of a few people having a problem with the 3.5L engine in their 99 or early 2000 troopers. When it would get to 60 or 70k miles it would break down, and isuzu fixed this in the later 2000 troopers.
  • jacqui1jacqui1 Posts: 1
    hi all - sorry but i need a little help i have a isuzu rodeo which i really like but me being me i checked the oil and it is a little low but i cant find anywhere to fill it up, where is my little plastic cap??? that says oil here!!!(all my other previous cars had one -made life a lot easier) please if any one can tell me i have looked hard under the bonnet but cant find anything and i really dont want to go to the garage just to top up my oil many thanks
    Jacqui xx :) :)
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    It is black screw in cap on driver side valve cover, have no marking, assummed you have v6 engine. Or stop by in any Pepboys or alike and look in the book(Haynes).
  • westernwestern Posts: 1
    92' 3.2L 5-speed manual Trooper (131,000 miles). It wouldn't start 1 morning & has been flaky thereafter.

    The last 2 years (maybe 2 or 3 month intervals?), the engine might quit while starting up from stoplight (1st gear), but would restart easily or revive if I hit the gas quickly. Also, something (fuel pump??) makes noticeble mid to high (whine?) noise 1-2 minutes after engine is turned off.
    Starting last summer, speedometer needle would drop suddenly to pin while driving, but then suddenly work again during driving: maybe down 3 days+. Operational since September, it quit 1/2 day in Jan or Feb.
    Got a tank of bad gas approx. 2 weeks before car died & car bucked/jerked really hard all day. Ran down tank & filled with fuel w/out water & car ran about a week. Thought maybe fuel pump or inline fuel pump, but rough to access. Mechanic replaced fuel pump relay and car ran several days w/some stalling, but re-started well. Appeared car ran/re-started until engine got hot after 1 hour driving - then wouldn't restart. Would restart after sitting 10/20 minutes intervals, but now the engine just turns over. Had replaced air filter/fuel filter/& cleaned pvc valve around time of bad gas. Isuzu dealer said sparks/wires/& fuel injector flush would solve stalling, so installed new spark plugs/wires/& ran heet-type stuff, then fuel injector cleaner through tank. Since outside temp's, been down to 15F or high as 32F, I poured 1 bottle iso-heet in tank to rid of possible water, but I'm back to poss. fuel pump or fuel pump regulator or mayber something els.....???

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    western: maybe your problem is like this one: I had a problem with my 2001 Trooper where it was idling rough sometimes and had little torque at just off idle, but with more open throttle it ran great. That turned out to be the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve) going bad by sticking open I think. The replacement of the valve actuator is easy except that the valve body must be cleaned thorougly of the carbon buildup which is tedius, so the labor will cost as much as the valve if you have a mechanic do it for you.
    I also have a very slight knock at the moment because it has a tank full of 87 Octane but the engine computer is used to 89 or 93 Octane, so I will get a bottle of injector cleaner (I am partial to the valvoline Synpower brand) which will eliminate the slight knock for this tank full and clean the injectors at the same time. I like to use higher octane fuel because it allows the engine computer to adjust the timing a more advanced which gives quicker throttle response, and the pre-ignition knock however slight and probably completely normal, bugs me, makes me think I am treating my engine poorly.
  • idiot2idiot2 Posts: 1
    like an idoit that i am i put the battery in wrong way round and now nothing comes on i believe i could of blown a fuse but cant find it. Any help would b much appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    You might have blown a "fusible link" which is basically a big fuse hidden in the main lead off the positive battery cable. Some FLs are replaced by splicing them into the wire and some are plug ins. You might need to consult a repair guide or ask a mechanic where this fusible link is on yourcar.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Reversing polarity may be a lot more damaging than merely blowing a fuse. I'd get it checked out ASAP.

    tidester, host
  • pv10chagpv10chag Posts: 2
    I spent the last weekend going through literally every post trying to find something that might give me an answer to my problem. Since I have to drive from Mexico back to Ohio in about a month, now I gotta ask.....

    96 Trooper LS, 187k miles. The problem now - intermittently flashing check engine light. It seems to happen just before the shifts between the lower gears or when the engine is under stress, like going up a steep grade. I step on the gas, feels like nothing happens, then suddenly the light starts flashing, the RPMs jump, I accelerate and then everything goes back to normal and the light stops after a few seconds.

    After the trip FROM Ohio to Mexico, I had to have the tranny rebuilt but not real confident in the work by the Mexican mechanic... it took him 7 tries, with various leaks and slippage, before he finally went to "the big city" to get NEW parts. At least he knew it was a GM tranny when I brought it in and he has honored his "warranty". And although it seems to "jerk" right now, I think it is more to do with what is going on with the Check engine light and the acceleration problem. However, I didn't have this problem before I had him work on the tranny....

    I read about the "disconnecting the battery" thing to reset the sensors/computer because I did have it fueled up with the key in the "on" position, but that didn't help.

    Before I left Ohio, I told the mechanic to spend whatever time he needed and do ANYTHING that he thought would/could cause problems on the trip down here. Things done recently, back in the USA at 183.8k miles:
    New shocks all around
    New fan clutch
    New wheel seals
    New radiator hoses
    Air and fuel filter
    pcv valve
    spark plugs
    1/2 shaft
    Tie rod end
    Idler Arm
    Oil change/filter
    V belt
    EGR valve
    Coolant fill and bleed
    Drain and refill axles
    Clean/repack front wheel bearings
    Replace Power steering belt and pulley
    Drain/Fill transfer case
    lube cables and linkage

    Had the water pump replaced at 170k and since they were in there, had them do the timing belt also.

    Am I looking at a possible O2 sensor or something more sinister? I love my girl, got her brand new and would really like to keep her around for another 50k or so... I know she can do it. All I want is for her to get me back to the border where I can take her to a dealer, if I have to...


  • wells3wells3 Posts: 2
    Someone help me please......okay here is the deal, I broke a wrist pin, after i called around for estimates to rebuild the 3.2L v6, it was cheaper for me to buy a new motor, now that i have it installed i'm having more trouble, when i picked the RODEO up they told me I had a converter clogged on the drivers side,and when he stuck the o2 sensor back in, the truck would cut out like it was out of time.I drove the truck to a well trusted muffler shop, they ran test and said the converter was good, but the number 2 cylinder was misfiring but not enough to pin point the exact problem, then they said it could be the mass air flow,then a friend said no it could actually be a exhaust problem, then i read on here and someone said something about high performace plugs....i need some rodeo advice....

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I think the spark plug issues that have drifted past here are two types:
    1.) what are the best plugs
    2.) why can't my engine use anything but the original plug?
    Question 1.) The 3.2L engines that have spark plug wires can use any spark plug that fits. And if desired might benefit from the full ignition kit available from
    Question 2.) Some newer engines with coil over spark plug measure some sort of feedback from the coil over plug unit, and changing the spark plugs away from the original type can change the feedback measurement enough to confuse the engine computer.
    If you think you might be having ignition troubles, don't forget to check the plug wires and ignition coils also.
  • 3blkcats3blkcats Posts: 1
    Hello, Just found this forum, and saw this post. Where could I find more information on the timing belt tensioner problem that you mention? I have a 92 Trooper with the 3.2 DOHC engine. It makes a knocking noise after slowing down from extending interstate driving, and seems to go away after a few seconds of idling. The t/belt, tensioner and hydraulic lash adjusters were replaced about 20k miles ago, and the noise doesn't happen as often, yet it still occurs randomly. Thanks for your help.
  • wells3wells3 Posts: 2
    thanks boxtrooper,

    but heres a question what is the standard issue of plugs for a 1998 isuzu rodeo LS 3.2L V6 w/coil package?

    And one other thing, should i start with the plugs? My Rodeo right now has now power what so ever, i had to leave it in first gear just to get it to climb a small incline to bring it home.But if i take out the O2 sensor on the drivers side it runs like a champ but its real loud because there is a hole in the exhaust, can you give me an idea of where to start? much appreciated!

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