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Isuzu Modifications/Aftermarket/Accessories

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Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    take your Trooper to the store and remove a stock rear speaker and insert different models of replacement speakers until you find one that will fit in.
    ..
    I bought a set of four on special, but ended up trading back the rear two with their carefully protected packing material toward a pair that would fit back there. I ended up with Alpine 5.25" (stock rear speakers were a little over 4") with new mounting screw holes drilled. The big hole is big enough. I looked at the back side of a lot of speakers on that trade in day, the size of their baksides varies greatly between models.
    ..
    Sounds way better.
  • FYI...I'm somewhat of a audiophile, and in general, You get more bang for your buck by replacing your front speakers. Mids and High range sounds are very directionaly and your ears can't pick up alot of sound from the rears when you are in the front seat. If you go the replacement route, I would recommend always doing the fronts first, then the rears...

    Some brands that I fine very nice:

    Boston Accoustic (tend to be a bit "high" or sound tinny to some)

    a/d/s (all around the BEST speaker, IMHO)

    Polk (also nice)
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    What about the component piece of it? Do I need to buy a 6" sub-woofer? or will a 2-way work? I would think that a 2-way setup might be sub optimal because of the intitial component design in the truck?

    I am not sure about replacing the tweeters and sub-woofer at the same time? From what I have read, replacing a component system is harder, that is why I am looking at doing the rears first.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I am thinking about getting a set of Polk 352's for the rears. They are 5 1/4" but everything I have read here is that I shouldn't have a problem with the depth, and I will just have to drill new holes.

    For the front, for no real reason, other than they are on sale as a package and have good specifications too, I am thinking about getting the Polk 365's, 6 1/2" speaker. The only issue could be the depth? Crutchfield says I can fit just under 2", these say 1 15/16". I didn't measure, but removed the stock unit tonight to check it out. There are bars across the rear of the speaker well which will limit how deep I can go? I figure that I could probably pad the front with a foam circle/cutout to get that extra 1/16 of an inch?

    Has anyone had success installing front speakers? What depth were you able to get into the front stock cutouts?
  • All the brands I mentioned will sell components. I would say that they are an absolute necessity in the fronts (again, highs are very directional, so having them closer to your ears are better) All three should sell a ~ 5 1/2 mid and 1 tweeter that should work in the fronts.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Can I just replace the 6 1/2" door 2-ways and leave the tweeters and crossover cable as stock?
    That is at least my current plan.

    I am not sure if replacing the dome tweeters in the door is absolutely necessary. A component system ups the complexity and cost.

    Thanks for the feedback.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    The rear speakers in my 1995 Trooper are for the kids when they are seated back there in the rear facing 3rd row http://www.littlepassengerseats.com bench seat. The third row rear facing seat is a very popular novelty for my kids and their friends it has three seat belts.
    ..
    When it is just me in the Trooper I use the fader to put extra power to the rear speakers and that makes the whole sound in the Trooper fuller.
    ..
    In my 1984 Trooper I made aluminum plates to cover the rear speaker openings above the rear doors. My 1984 did not come with rear speakers above the doors, but the wires were there. So I added a pair of surface mounted high range speakers pointed forward and in the sides of the rear panels I mounted a pair of low range larger speakers 6x9 IIRC. Then the fronts were replaced with the largest thing that would fit in the doors 6.5" IIRC. The radio I used was a high end Clarion that already had 30000 miles on it from my previous Corvair Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Van and while I was away in the military the Clarion was used by my brother in his car, but he denies it. Anyway, when I sold my 200K+ miles 1984 Trooper the kid that bought it mostly just wanted the stereo parts and the CB.
  • The crossover for the front is the cheap in-line type found in most stock set ups. I have considered upgrading the factory tweeters, but the originals sound O.K. and I didn't think the improvement would be worth the effort.

    The Polk 6 1/2" will fit the front door panels with no problem. Using the Polk's combined with the factory tweeters worked better for me than by-passing the tweeter and wiring directly to the new 6 1/2" Polks. I guess a cheap tweeter is better than no tweeter.

    My next improvement will be in the base department.
    I really like the under the seat sub-woofer over on Mike's site. I am considering the Infinity brand set up with the built in amp.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I spoke with a guy at crutchfield today and he said the same thing regarding the tweeters. They aren't components, but just have an inline filter. I got the Polk EX352s and EX365s. The 365s have too tall of a tweeter to fit under the factory cover, however it is only slightly off, so with some sanding or shaping I can adjust the factory cover to fit over the speaker. For the rears I will have to drill new holes, I am OK with that.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    My wiring of my ARB bullbar blinkers has caused and interesting effect. I have them wired up so they function as both a blinker and parking light (+ wire to + for turn signal, and - wire to + of parking light). It was a mistake when I did it, but I like the dual function, so I kept it that way.

    However, with the headlights off, the radio illumination blinks when I activate the turn signals. When the headlights are on, it doesn't. So I imagine I am getting a signal up the + side of the parking lights which is making the radio think the headlights/illumination is being activated?

    I am going to try to override this with one of the radio features to disable illunination? I could also cut the orange illumination wire ground it and/or splice it with the hot for the radio?
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Which wires did you hook to? My Troop had 3 wires to the turn signal: green/red, green/black, and black. The black looks to be the ground, and based on the way the other bulbs in the assembly are wired I deduced that the green/black was the turn signal, while the green/red was the parking light.

    So, the proper wiring (as ARB intended anyway) would be to the green/black and black wires. This setup has worked correctly for me in any case...
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I don't remember. But I probably did green/black and green/red. I like the way it works for me. They turn on as parking lights with the lights on, and also function as turn signals. I noticed that the odometer blinks with the signals, and it never bothered me much. However I didn't think of the impact until it started effecting my radio display.

    If I have to try to fix it, I am going to have to remove about an entire roll of electrical tape that I used when I wired it up.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That blinking ODO and what not is basically indicating there is a short in the wiring. Which is what you are doing by hooking the GROUND wire up to the positive :)

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I think he technically has two hot wires hooked together, so the ground has to find its own way back...probably not the best situation.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I know I do. As per my previous posts, I wired the ARB signals to both the blinker and parking light by mistake a few years ago. I didn't test with the headlights on during the install, so I never caught it until it was too late.

    Now it is causing an issue with the display on my new receiver. Not a major problem, but annoying enough.

    However, I do like the way the ARB signals/lights work. They blink when headlights are off. They turn on as parking/driving lights and blink when the headlights are on.

    There is the rub, if I fix the lights, I lose the function I like. The amount of electrical tape I used on the wiring to keep water and what not out is a daunting prospect to remove and fix. I am going to first try to resolve the issue from the radio side of things, since the only effect seems to be the odometer flashing, and the rest of lights/dash seem to work fine.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Would be to put in a dual filament bulb, I think that's the "technical" way to fix it. But i'm all for alternate methods :)

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Another one day turnaround for Crutchfield and my stereo upgrade project. I bought my speakers directly from Crutchfield, because their prices are very competitive for speakers...for head units they are a little high.

    I swtiched the JVC unit to have the illumination set to off, so it doesn't take input on the headlight/dashboard circuit. No more blinking. So for now I am going to leave it as is.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I did the install for the front Polk 365s tonight, tomorrow I will get the rears done. They fit fine. The install was a little tricky, since the stock screws were a little big and sort of pushed the rubber surrounds out of whack. I just drilled new holes and used the screws that came with the set.

    I also had an issue because I didn't get them exactly centered. So once the screws were tight, I noticed a little gap on one side under the rim. I just drilled a few more holes and added more screws to put it tight against the cutout. The metal rim got very slightly crooked, but it didn't seem to effect the shape of the woofer cone.

    The sound is very good, at least from my first 10 minutes of listening. At normal levels it is hard to distinguish much difference, but as soon as you crank it up you can really hear how much better they are.

    The crutchfield cables again fit easily. However the wire fell back into the door when I was adjusting it. I first tried to take the door panel off to retrieve it, I didn't realize the door has plastic sealing the entire inside compartment? I had to come up with another plan. A coat hanger did the trick.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Has anyone been able to significantly improve the headlight performance of the Trooper? I have put in Sylvania XV bulbs, which is an improvement, but the performance is still sub-optimal.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I tried adding the Polk EX352s in the rear slots and they didn't fit the cutout. I am OK with drilling and chopping, etc, however the cutout isn't just plastic, it is lined with metal. Another option would be to use something like 3/8" spacers and then the covers that came with the speakers?

    The Polk EX350s are 5", slightly smaller, but have a cutout requirement of 7/8" of an inch less. This seems like a better choice than trying to cut through the metal back there. I called up crutchfield and it is no problem, they will swap out and still offer me the buy one get one at 1/2 price deal on the second set and hopefully this will be resolved this week.

    I also picked up a set of Sylvania SilverStar headlight bulbs. They are definitely much whiter and brighter than the stock yellow or even the Sylvania Extra Visions I was using. It seems better from the drivers seat, however I don't know if level at which the light burns i.e. 4000K vs. 3200K (white vs yellow) actually translates into more lumens or candlepower?
  • satysaty Posts: 23
    Has anyone try replacing the stock headlights with some of the high performance light bulbs out there?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    And it generally doesn't work well. I've tried several different bulbs some are better than others, but a set of auxiliary lights will be far more useful to you.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I got my replacement speakers today and popped them in. They fit and screwed right into the factory holes. Polk EX350s. They seem more than 1/4" smaller (5 vs. 5.25) than the EX352s that didn't fit?

    Well its done. I think overall it was a decent upgrade, the stereo is awesome. MP3 functionality works well. The speakers are good, definitely better than stock. However, I would have liked to put slightly larger speakers in the rear, but the work involved in cutting holes in the metal in back was more than I really wanted to do.

    Overall- JVC SX990, $175 delivered, Polk EX365s/EX350s $140 delivered. Crutchfield was great with the speakers. The return was no problem and my replacements were in the mail back the same day they were returned. I shipped the replacements Tuesday and got the replacements Thursday. Their price on speakers was much more competitive than their electronics.
  • satysaty Posts: 23
    Has anyone try or know anything about the new Sylvania Silverstar high performance halogen light bulbs? It cost about $25 each. The company claimed it equivalent or very close to HID quality.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    look back 4 posts. I put up information regarding the very same immediately prior to your first question regarding.

    $19.99 each at Autozone. Better than stock and whiter, but I am not sure if they are any better than the Sylvania XV bulbs which are 1/2 the price. They are whiter than the XV, but the distance at which I can see hasn't changed much since the change from XV.
  • ostazostaz Posts: 80
    I am planning on adding aux lights to my 99 S truck. I would like something that will fit in the factory cut-outs. How about adding factory lights for that matter?

    Any advice.

    Thanks
    Sam
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Installed a hood channel mount for CB antenna over the weekend. I took off the clutch plate on the firewall for a pass-through, as many people suggested. Just wondering what you have done to "plug" the hole after your wiring is installed. I though about drilling a smaller hole in the cover plate, but decided not to do that.

    For right now I cut a piece of foam pipe insulation and curled it up tight, with the coax in the middle, to stuff the big hole, but this is a temporary fix.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Dunno, my antenna is on the wing in the back. I'm suprised you didn't put it on the CB mount on your ARB! :)

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    OME 919 Springs
    Fog-lights in the ARB
    Synthetic TOD and ATF Fluids
    Electric Brake Controller
    Semi-permenantly mounted AC Inverter with outlets in the center concole.
    Rear lights for loading trailer at night.
    OME or Replacement Rancho Shocks
    Fix the Door that got smacked

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    When I had my OME lights installed, they drilled a hole in the rubber bushing around the wiring harness that passes through the firewall...I know that is a different pass through...but they used an epoxy to seal it up.

    If you drill a hole through I can think of a few ways to seal it...one is just with some kind of caulking/epoxy that sticks to metal and rubber, the second is by gluing some rubber circles? washers? plumbing item? or something with a smaller diameter than the cable on either side of the pass through, then you could just run your cable through and remove it and still have a tight fit.
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