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Honda Odyssey 1999 - 2004



  • I have a 2001 Odyssey EX with automatic temperature control. I live in VT. I usually have the temperature set to 76 degrees. So far we have a mild winter in VT and I have not been using the heater much. This past week we have the first cold blast and I realized the van never warm up. I can feel the air coming out from the register is luke warm, not cold but not hot either. I have tried to set the temperature to maximum (90 degrees) and the blower just sent more air out (run at maximum speed) but the air is not any warmer. I talked to my co workers who owned the Odyessy also and they all claimed they have plenty of heat from their vans. I have the van serviced with the 60K tune up from the dealer last month and I am sure the dealer did not change the coolant. I drive eight miles to work and it takes about 20 to 25 minutes. I have the van parked inside the garage overnight. And I recall the van was keeping me toasty warm for the past five winters.

    Any idea what's the problem. Thanks.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    A few quick things to check and report back on:

    1) What does the temp gauge read? Is it coming up to the normal position, or is it perpetually reading low? Do you remember how far from home it usually took to get to full operating temp, and how does that compare to now? Could be a stuck engine thermostat.

    2) Try the rear heat. Does it feel normal (hot)? If so, something is amiss with the front heating system.

    3) Try shutting the front completely off, wait a bit, then hit Auto. Mine occasionally fouls and needs to be cycled.

    I have not had a need to study the Ody specifically, but in general regulation of the heat up front is usually accomplished by a combo of two methods. There is a valve on a water line that controls hot fluid flow to the heater core in the HVAC box under the dash near the glove box. And within the box is a motor controlled flap that mixes cold cowl air with the warm air off the core. Either of these two could be messed up.

    If you can find the water lines that go from the engine to the firewall, you might be able to see if they feel hot (indicating hot fluid flow into the core). If not, the water valve is either bad or not getting a signal to open. How that valve is actuated (motor or cable), or where it is will take some diagram study. Sorry I cannot be more specific.

  • macakavamacakava Posts: 775
    After more than 30 years(actually closer to 40) of my own car maintenance using many brands of filters with no issues, I would think that would speak for itself.

    HURRY UP - the BOGO free special on Total Grip ends soon, Mon!

    Sometimes, you do see strange things happening to other heads!
  • macakavamacakava Posts: 775
    The Ody filter by Total Grip is said to be made by Purolator. Total Grip apparently uses the Fram's number model apparently for easier cross referencing.

    Same Fram number used as well for Total Grip filter for my Lincoln Continental 4.6L DOHC V8. No engine failure in her almost 13years. She gets "lubed" regularly, Mon!
  • I'm guessing the engine coolant thermostat is stuck in the open position thus not allowing the engine to get to operating temperature.
  • cwalticwalti Posts: 185
    ...that should lead to higher fuel consumption, cat constipation, and other likely error code reading if the engine does not warm up within a spec time frame... ???
  • Thermostat stuck in the open position . . . . Result in increased fuel consumption? Most likely. Result in cat constipation or error code? Don't know.

    Fibber2's suggestion to watch the engine temperature gauge is good. If the engine temperature is consistently low even after the engine should have warmed up to operating temp, that usually indicates a stuck open thermostat.
  • fibber2 and others,

    Thanks for your feedback. Here's my findings to fibber's questions.

    1) The temperature gauge do reach normal reading, but it seems to take a few more minutes to get there than before(not 100% sure, can be my bias to make myself believe in the delay).

    2)I did try the rear heater once the temperature gauge reached normal reading. I am by myself so I had to park the van first. The air from the rear register did feel warmer that the front (when I was driving) but still not hot. But when I did a front to rear comparison when the van was in the Park position, the air from the front register did feel warmer (still not hot) and matched the warmness of the air from the rear register.

    3) It made no difference to turn off the heat, wait a few minutes and restart.

    I am not sure where to locate the water lines as I am not handy when it comes to work on automobile.

    Last time when I filled up the gas tank, I got an average of about 16mpg which is typical in the winter time. It goes up to 17 or 18 mpg in the summer.

    Is there such a thing as partial stuck open thermostat? My theory is based on 2) above that the air was warmer when the van parked for a while and not moving.

    I plan to take the van back to the dealer to service this problem. Thanks for all of your inputs.
  • We are looking at an 04 Odyssey with 52000 mi, one owner, carfax is clean. Dealer will not budge on sticker price of 19995. Granted, we are trading a 2000 Ford Windstar which he says he will give us 4500 for. We've never owned a Honda, but hear about the quality/resale etc etc. Very nervous about buying any used vehicle with that many miles. Our other possible option is an 07 Dodge Grand Caravan with a sticker of 21100. Any suggestions??
  • cwalticwalti Posts: 185
    I would buy a Honda with a 100,000 miles over a Dodge, Ford, or Chevy with less than 30,000 miles. I own a '91 Accord with 170,000+ mls, a '99 Odyssey with 85,000+ mls, and an '05 CR-V with ~15,000 mls. All are in fine shape and running daily. Since I have all Hondas in my driveway carlife is bliss.
    Check the background of 'your' Ody and make sure it hasn't been totaled or flooded, or...??
  • blackexv6blackexv6 Posts: 503
    I the Odyssey an LX or EX model? If it's an EX then $19,995 is not too bad. LX too high. I always buy new Hondas because the used prices are too close to the new ones (have excellent resale value).

    For comparison:

    2007 Odyssey LX - around $23,700 ($26,240 MSRP)

    2007 Odyssey EX - $26,500 ($28,518 MSRP)

    You may get another $500-$1000 if you agressively shop.

    Lastly, I own both generations of Odysseys ('00 & '06). After driving the '06 for a few months, I realize the '00 is built much better, quieter & smoother engine.

    Also, be aware there are some design defects with the new ones including the droning defect, power steering pumps, & bad engine mounts.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,441
    I've never seen a new 07 Grand Caravan with a "sticker" of only $21,100. Must be pre-owned or demo?

    Honda high resale hurts pre-owned car buyers. Better to spend an extra $3k and buy a new Ody LX, or an extra $1,100 and buy the GC if new.
  • The background on the carfax shows none of those issues. It was bought at this dealer and serviced at this dealer. Don't know how else to check possible accidents that weren't reported.
  • I misspoke...the original MSRP was, I believe 26-28K....another local dealer is having a "blowout" and offered this same SXT for 21,685...I then threw that at this dealer, who promised to beat that price by $500. It is a new vehicle. Thanks for your input.
  • The Ody is an EX-L (love those heated leather seats!) Our issue is that we can't afford a new one and it is VERY difficult in our area to find a used one (ie, small, rural, nearest city 40-50 miles away and I've heard they just don't need to bargain cause they know they will sell). We are also trading a 2000 Windstar (would never buy one again...EVER) which is hurting us as well. Feel like we're in a no-win situation.

    I'm unfamiliar with the droning defect...what is it? I know the 04 has 2 recalls and the dealer assured me that in order for the vehicle to be a certified used vehicle, those issues were addressed.

    Honestly, I loved the ODY...the mileage bugs me even though I've heard the reliability is fantastic. The Grand Caravan...driving it today and it has way more interior noise than I like (much like my Windstar). Otherwise, it handles nicely and I love the Stow n Go.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    Sorry, but been out of town on business, and no time to research. If the van reaches and stays at normal operating temp, even if it now gets there a bit slowly, you should be getting great heat after a few minutes.

    Looked at wifes van today (while replacing the battery - another story for my next entry...). Behind the engine on the firewall, right below the center spark plug you will find a cable operated valve, and rubber hoses that go thru the wall into the underdash region.

    This evening I was looking on another Ody board for something else and stumbled upon a thread in which several reported no heat, and traced it to this valve. Sounds like it might sieze up and break the actuator arm attached to the cable. Someone said it was a $25 part. One possibility. Hope this helps narrow your search.

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    sounds plausible. might there also be a problem with air in the system? specially if the coolant was fluhed/replaced incorrectly not long ago?
  • bluemattysgirl: I don't know if this is proper to talk about this here. But if you are desperate about buying a reliable used car + if you live somewhere that close to central Ohio. I would like to sell you my wife's ride so that we can buy a new 07 Odyssey. It's a 04 Odyssey EX with 33,000 mile on it. The color is Sagebrush (dark gray). It's in perfect condition. Love the car, but we feel uneasy that it doesn't have side curtain airbags and all those useful gadgets like on the newer model (we have 2 kids). Everything has been taken care of very well. We have all the maintenance records. Don't response if you are not interested. Please email to
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    Very possible, Sam. If you go back a page or two, I was responding to set of circumstances that another member posted. He didn't mention cooling system service in the recent past, just that he suddenly realized as the weather grew colder that he had virtually no heat.

    Two person job - one to work the controls, the other to watch and see if the cable and valve arm moves. Plus a hand on the pipe to see if it gets hot, and if the return line gets hot. If that looks OK, then on to other possibilities!

  • Steve,

    Took the Ody to dealer yesterday. They let the Ody parked outdoor for few hours to cool down and then drove it for a few miles to warm up. They measured the air coming out from the register (bottom vent) to be 135 to 140 degrees which met the Honda spec. They claimed by the time the air hit any part of the human body, it would drop to roughly 80 degrees depending on the outside temperature. I asked them did they check the cable operated valve and they said yes and the valve was moving freely. They said it did not look like a stuck thermostat based on the temperature gauge movement. The bottom line is nothing wrong with the heating system. They told me I should not expect to feel as warm as a passenger car due to the sheer volume of the van.

    When my wife picked me up from the dealer after I dropped off the Ody, I can feel right away her Accord was a lot warmer than my van. She had her Accord parked outside the driveway overnight and the Ody was parked inside the garage. The outside temp was about -5 degrees yesterday morning and I would say about 20 degrees warmer insider the garage. And no doubt the Accord was a lot warmer than the Ody driving the same distance.

    Right now I am puzzled by this. Maybe the dealer is right. I should not expect the Ody to be as warm as the Accord in extreme cold weather for a 20 to 25 minutes drive.
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,862
    What I do with my Odyssey is run the rear HVAC in addition to the front in order to heat/cool the vehicle better in extreme conditions. Try that to see if the van heats up any more.

    It is a big space to heat so that might help. I always found our Ody to be more difficult to condition compared to our cars. Now I find my Passat wagon to be harder than our previous sedans and the Ody as the Passat does not have rear HVAC.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    I notice that with the auto temp set at 68'F, the air never blows quite as hot as it does if you turn it all the way up to 90. That seems to be true even when the van is considerably cooler than that. It seems to blend in cold air (or moderates the water valve) all along to approach the setting without overshoot.

    At this point, I suspect that you are going to have to search out someone with an Ody and do a side by side comparison to see if yours responds the same throughout the warm-up cycle. Where are you located? Must be someone with a van up there.

  • mevandemevande Posts: 190
    Dealer is ripping you off at 19,995! Go somewhere else.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    Thought I would tell what happened last week in case anyone else ever encounters this. Long story short, it looks like the commonality was the transmission 'range switch'. 2002 Ody EX, 72k miles.

    All three times the first indication of problems was a failure of the power sliders. Sometimes they open a few inches, then freeze, once they did not move at all (as though they were locked, but were not). This is accompanied by the shifter locked in park, and some intermittant door beeping. The PRND is blank - nothing illuminated. I know the shifter was solidly in the Park position, but the P was not lit. Pressing on the brake pedal produces no click, so the basic shifter interlock system is disabled.

    First time it happened, I got out and manually cycled the doors by pushing them all the way open, then powering them shut. When both closed, the "P" lit up, and everything then worked just fine. A few days later it happened again, but was also accompanied by slow engine cranking. Thinking that all this might be a low voltage induced glitch to the various processor logic, I went out and replaced the battery. Everything worked fine for almost two weeks, and I was full of self congratulations for not running to the dealer on a false alarm!! When it happened again, no amount of manual cycling of the doors would restore functionality.
    We used the shifter interlock override (the little covered keyhole on the top of the steering column) to get it out of park and drove it to the dealer. The power doors came right back to life on their own as soon as I could move the shifter.

    At first the dealer seemed stumped about what the relationship could be between the door failure and the shift lock. I had checked the door contacts, and they seem clean enough and well aligned. I posted this on another Ody internet site, plus studied my shop manual, and everything pointed to the Range Switch. This unit tells all the other logic what position the shifter is in, and if it doesn't think it is in P, disables the door. No "P", no go, no doors...

    Friendly Honda in Poughkeepsie treated us very well. They kept the Ody for a week of testing, providing a service loaner car. They called me twice to ask exact sequence of events questions in an effort to reproduce it. I think eventually they did it on faith. They even stapled a copy of the logic diagrams to my receipt (nice touch). Hopefully, this is the end of the story. Now I feel better about having purchased that 7/100k extended warranty. Finally getting something out of it!

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    curious, did you tell them you sleuthed it to the point of it being the shifter-position switch?

    what warrented the stapling of the logic diagrams? an attaboy or thanks?

    cool. good thing i bought manual sliders. :blush:

    i bet someday this happens to someone else. you're description will help them save some $$$.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775

    They were comtemplating giving it back as a 'no trouble found'. If that happened I was worried that I'd get the bill, and I told the service writer my concerns. I posted the problem description on another Ody board, and shared details of the response, plus my own interpretation of the shop manual. I guess I established credibility, and believe they confered with the wizards at American Honda on it. Attaching the logic diagrams to my invoice was a way of acknowledging it?

    I posted it here in hopes that it does someday save someone a lot of grief. Hopefully the title will get picked up in a problem search.

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    Any technician trained in looking at a schematic for one of their vehicles with the information you had in hand should have taken about 10min to diagnose the prob.

    Any really good senior tech would have known this and consultation with Honda unnecessary.

    Or let's see, they should have a system where they could ask a question like this, and get a response in a day.

    Maybe I'm dreaming...

    But you dropped the solution in their lap.

    Yeah, that was a nice acknowlegement.
  • highenderhighender Posts: 1,365
    purposely calibrating the odometer to read 3.75 % faster and higher mileage than actual mileage ? :blush: :mad:

    A lawyer used to go on a regular trip in another car...but when he took his Honda ( odyssey), it consistently got a higher distance traveled.

    Thus, your warranty would run out that much quicker..and be liable for the repair costs.

    The class action lawsuit was settled...and HONDA will send letters to all owners to offer some form of compensation .

    FYI, Detroit made cars were accurate in their odometer readings...( maybe after Chrysler got caught letting employees drive many cars without odometers connected, then reconnected the odometers and sold the cars as new back in 1980s.)

    FOr some reason, Toyota cars in general , read too slow by a wee bit....??

    Honda has promised to calibrate odometers to have 0% discrepancy. Federal rules allow up to 4% variation.

    Did anyone get a letter ?
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775

    Agree, but realize that the problem never actually happened on their watch. Picture the senario:

    A customer calls them from the side of the road and says their car is locked in park, doors disabled. Third such time in two weeks. We discuss the merits of either waiting for a tow, or using the shift interlock override to release the shifter and then drive it in to them. Finally I decide to go for the override, as the writer says he has a loaner warmed up and waiting for me!

    Now they fuss with it for a few days and cannot get it to happen. The "book" says to toss it back into my lap as a NDF along with the bill. I can understand the point, as there is the chance that it is somehow pilot error. Fortunately, I make a credible witness! We get the car serviced there occasionally, and the warranty claims in 5 years has been near zip, other than the toasted 2nd gear at 35k.

  • esteezeesteeze Posts: 102
    I took our 04 Odyssey EX in last week for the 30K service (actually have about 32K miles on it). They found the front brake pads worn to 2.5MM; we had the pads replaced, and the rotors re-surfaced. It was about $200 for the brake work.

    I guess 32K of miles in this heavy auto (~ 5,000 lbs including the typical people/cargo load) in the hilly Birmingham/Hoover terrain take their toll on brake pads. :sick:

    What sort of other mileage are others out there getting out of their brake pads? Do rotors typically get re-surfaced with each pad replacement?
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