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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair



  • rflrfl Posts: 100
    haven't got any hard evidence that the 93 REALLY increases HP...but I can tell you this: if you use the cheap stuff you WILL notice a definite decline in 0-60 performance. It's like dragging an anvil behind you,
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,288
    Without the AWD BMWs (each and every one of them) STINK in the snow. And with the sport's[sic] package...heaven help you!

    Really? My RWD 3 Series and 5 Series had no trouble handling snow covered roads when fitted with winter tires. No car -FWD, RWD, or AWD- is going to perform well on summer performance tires.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • luv2sail2luv2sail2 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    I have a 07' 328is with 67k miles on it. As i begin to turn the corner out of the local shopping center, the car shut-off & a light on the dash flashed (it looked as if the car was sitting on a 'car lift'). I put the car in park, hit the start button and the car came back on.hmmmmmm... Has anyone experienced this before, if not can anyone suggest what the problem could be. The car drove normally right afterwards. Car has 100k warranty, however, dealer wanted to charge me $160 for a diagnosis. My 1st thought was, "why are you charging me for a diagnosis, when I have a 100k warranty + you told me it was a 'service light' that came on. Needless to say, I didn't get the diagnosis! ANY suggestions on how I can solve this mystery, will be greatly appreciated;-)
  • seekingaudia4seekingaudia4 Posts: 66
    edited September 2010
    Speaking of 0-60, is it just my imagination or the published time is too slow? When I get the chances to do 0-60 launches, I always felt my 328i with auto (DS/Manual, DTC on) was faster than 6.4 or so :) Do people actually clock their cars? If so how to do it accurately?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    edited September 2010
    BMW has always been very conservative when it comes to publishing both power numbers (i.e. HP and Torque) as well as acceleration statistics. If I'm not mistaken, BMW has published a 0-60 time of 6.9 seconds for automatic 328i sedans and 6.3 seconds for manual transmission variants.

    Can both cars beat those numbers on a dry surface? Probably. :)

    Best regards,
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    6.4 is pretty quick actually for a solidly built 6 cylinder passenger car with all the amenities and gadgets---that's faster than most legendary American "muscle cars" from the 60s. :D

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  • seekingaudia4seekingaudia4 Posts: 66
    edited September 2010
    6.4 is Edmunds number for a 328i 6M sedan I think. No one seems to care about the 6A. Is there a link on how the 0-60 is usually clocked?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    I don't think so. Some of the auto mags do some rather radical launching techniques.

    Personally I find 0-60 a pretty useless bit of information, given that most cars today can easily do this under 9 seconds and that most cars today in the same price and weight class are just splitting hairs in terms of their competitive 0-60 scores.

    I mean, it's really "how" you get to 0-60 as much as how fast you get there. Some cars put up such a fuss with engine noise and balky shifting that the 1/2 second you gain is hardly worth the trouble.

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  • seekingaudia4seekingaudia4 Posts: 66
    edited September 2010
    Which was why I picked the 328i over the A4 and the G37. I like power but also a more refined driving experience especially in aggressive driving mode.

    Although I think there is a huge difference between 9 and under 5, separates fun driving from just driving.

    I did find a BMW M Meter iPhone app. Don't Know how good those apps are at spelling out the performance numbers.
  • 28firefighter28firefighter Seattle, WAPosts: 2,638
    I have a 2004 330xi that I bought about a month ago. Recently it started making a groaning sound when in reverse. It almost sounds like the parking brake is not disengaging completely when in reverse.

    I took it in and had the dealer I bought it from, and they made an adjustment to the emergency brake and that helped initially. Now it is not as constant, but it does appear intermittently. Interestingly enough, if I am moving slowly in reverse and yank up the park brake to stop the car, and then reverse - the noise stops for a period of time.

    I would take it back to the purchasing dealer, but I am about to drive the car cross state back with me to Pittsburgh (car is in Philadelphia right now) and cannot get back to the dealership.

    Any ideas what this might be specifically? I'm guessing it has to do with something rubbing from the park brake, but I'm not sure why. The front and rear brakes were done within the last 5k miles and the car makes no noises whatsoever going forward or when stopping.
    2016 Volkswagen GTI S, 2016 BMW X1 xDrive28i
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,288
    BMW emergency brakes use a set of mechanically actuated brake shoes located inside of the rear rotor hats. You need to adjust the shoes AND the cables. A good how-to can be found here.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • rhmassrhmass Posts: 263
    Recently my 2002 325 battery light came on during driving and the car stalled with practically all lights came on. Upon towing to the technician who found out that the alternator was bad, so it was replaced. We have 56,000 miles on the car. We have had six BMWs over the years without ever having the alternator requiring replacement even at the mileage well over 100,000. The question I had about this problem related to the fact I have been using a trickle battery charge for this car since a year ago, as we don't drive this one as much, thus I put the charger on it once a week or so to keep the battery fully charged. With this recent alternator problem, I wonder if putting on the battery charger, even a trickle type, may do damage to the alternator, particularly now I had a new battery put in also.

    I have been trying to find information on this matter. The only piece of information on the potential damage to the alternator is to have a practically dead battery using driving (alternator) to fully charge it, then the alternator might be damaged. Even this theory was not definitive. Does anyone know if using a trickle charger frequently would potentially damage the alternator? Hope to hear from some of you mechanically inclined to advise me to this question. Thanks.
  • jajjaj Posts: 55
    My '09 328 xdrive with 17K miles makes a high pitched chirping/squealing noise audible only at very slow speeds. Applying the brakes causes sound to stop. Dealer said the brakes have plenty left to them, that it's probably a "hard spot" on the pad(s) causing the noise, and it should go away on its own. Two months later there's no sign of the sound abating. Any suggestions of what is the cause and how to get rid of it would be appreciated.
  • r34r34 Posts: 178
    I have a 2007 335xi and I think I got the same problem (I have more mileage though).
    It usually happened on a hot day. I brought the car in couple times but they couldn't duplicate the problem. At that time I got ~40K but they took me all the brakes were ok.
    I ended up drove the car in when it happened and force the guy to do the test drive with me to hear it.
    On the day of the appointment, they couldn't duplicate the problem but the guy who heard it test drove the car with another service guy.
    They took the rear brake pads out, cleaned them, and put them back. The noise was still there. They ended up replacing the rear brakes and the noise was gone.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I do not think using a battery charger on trickle, even for an extended period of time, would cause any damage to the alternator.

    But, I would not use the charger at all for a couple of weeks and see what the state-of-charge of the battery is.

    Were you having problems with the car not starting after sitting for a while, or were your just being proactive?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,102
    definitely wouldn't harm the alternator. The alternator is doing nothing when the car is off and not running, so charger can't do anything to it.

    Sometimes things just fail. The brushes in the alternator wore down/got dirty, that's all. I wouldn't worry about it.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • rhmassrhmass Posts: 263
    Thanks to both srs_49 and qkrozen for answering my questions.

    Knowing the trickle charger won't harm the alternator has relieved my concerns. The cost of the alternator (OEM) was quick costly at $499, so I want to make sure I do the right thing with the charger. The car has never failed to start. The reason i got the trickle charger a year ago was because the battery which came with the car was getting pretty old, so I though to make it fully charged may help to prolong its life. I had the battery replaced as well even though the technician thought this old battery is still taking charge and works. After almost 8 years, I thought I might as well replaced it. Thanks again for the reply.
  • ego29isteego29iste Posts: 45
    edited September 2010
    Thanks. I found a local shop that can keep the winter tires and wheels on site. They will change it for the seasons for free if you buy it through them. So hopefully that headache is over now.

    Started test driving this weekend finally to narrow down the choices. I did drive the 2011 E550 coupe and Audi S5 (highway and city). Both are excellent cars.

    E550 - Excellent HK audio system, V8 is excellent. More of a luxury cruiser than a true performance car. Definitely can be pushed a bit though. You can bomb down the highway and have no inkling as to how fast you are going. I really like the quality of the navigation system as well. The screen was super vibrant and beautifully detailed. It looks classy with a tinge of aggression if it has the appearance package. Some bits were slightly a little too plasticky. Wish it came with the 4matic system as the sedans did. I liked it more than I thought I would. Very professional sales staff.

    Audi S5 - Great seats. Just as good if not better than the E550 seats. Good audio system though I felt perhaps the MB had a slight advantage here. Though I was listening to Sirius on the Audi and a CD on the MB. Loved the look of the car - very sexy. It has the AWD system which is a plus for me. The interior at first glance looks excellent. Even better than the MB but some of the buttons when you press them feels a bit too plasticky and clicky in their response. The car does drive amazingly well though. It feels more secure and well planted throughout the turns. Definitely liked the way it drove and handled compared to the MB E550 coupe. The navigation system is good but to me it was a bit cartoony and perhaps not as elegant in execution compared to the MB E550. Sales experience was a bit sub par compared to the MB dealer.

    Came across the Infiniti FX50S - didn't drive it. A dealer had a fully loaded one sitting on the lot. The interior sure looked like a nice place to be at first glance. Focus focus.... I need to stay focused or I will never buy a car.

    BMW - hoping to schedule a test drive later today for the 335i convertible and perhaps the Z4 with the same engine as well. Saving the best for the last :)
    Both are indulgences w/ the 3 conv having a bit more practicality. The Z4 does speak to me from an emotional level and I have always loved the classic roadster look. The time in my life when I owned a Mazda MX5 was one of the best in terms of driving fun.

    Once the top choice is finalized, next phase is pricing and poring over these forums to see how much these cars are being discounted from MSRP. Car shopping is fun!!!

    Sorry for the brain dump in here. The Mrs. things I am nuts staying up late poring over these details. Had to get these thoughts out of my system.

    Have a good one folks.
  • Hope it is not your rear differential mount. My brother broke his in his 02 330 manual. He said it was loud as hell when it broke and clunked every time he shifted after. He welded it back together himself because fixing it with a new part meant dropping the suspension. ">
  • I have never had any problems with my car remote however, this evening I suddenly discovered I am unable to unlock the driver side door of my 2005 325ci with it's remote. The car locks with the remote but I have to open the driver side door manually with the key. The locks on the remaining doors, i.e., the passenger side door and trunk door are working fine and they open and close with the remote Any ideas as to what is going? Is this some type of an electrical malfunction or did some part of the door lock break? Is this something worth getting repaired and approximately what cost am I looking at for the repair?
    Thank you!
  • Have same issue with my 2006 330xi driver's door. I use the key to unlock now.
    Most likely it's the door actuator failure and I believe it was $600+ to repair.
    It also won't lock with the central lock button in the car.
  • piterpiter Posts: 1
    hey it's probably a stupid question but i just picked up my 330xi and as you stated it says "and wait for the service reminder to dissapear. " is this normal that's what happens ?? because i hope there is something wrong with the car . do you own 3-series yourself ?? thanks piotr
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,288
    Are you saying that the reminder doesn't go out?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • lehrer1lehrer1 Posts: 54
    Dealer maintenance prices are outrages in comparison with private garages.
    Resently I changed the oil and filter and changed the brake fluid + complete car inspection at Bavarian Motors garage for $144. They let me watch what they were doing.
    Dealer price was more than $300.
  • rflrfl Posts: 100
    I have owned 7 BMW's. If it is NOT covered under warranty, I wouldn't get near a dealer service deparment. I even have my state inspections done elsewhere.
  • lehrer1lehrer1 Posts: 54
    I am with you. Dealer maintenance prices are as stupid as an idea of RFT.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,288
    Dealer maintenance prices are outrages in comparison with private garages.

    It really depends on the dealer. My local dealer(Swope BMW, Louisville KY) provides excellent service at extremely reasonable prices. Here are a few examples of service costs for my wife's 2004 X3 2.5:
    ATF and Transfer case fluid change(I don't believe in "lifetime" fills): $207
    Oil Service(AKA 15K service)+coolant flush: $128
    Inspection I(30K service)+brake fluid flush+wiper blades: $302
    Inspection II(60K service)+brake fluid flush+repair curbed LF wheel: $424
    That said, I also use an excellent independent BMW shop(Performance Specialties) for service on my 1975 2002 and 1995 318ti when I don't have time for DIY.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Also the dealer is supposed to know what they're doing. I'm not a big fan of going to an indy shop that says 'German motors", under the assumption that all German cars are the same for some reason---they certainly are not. A superb Mercedes mechanic could totally screw up an Audi, for instance.

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  • rflrfl Posts: 100
    Now...remember...we're talking about a larger market---suburban Philadelphia to be exact:

    Local garage---owned and operated by two fine Italian mechanics (from Sicily) with 60 years of "foreign car" experience: All of the latest bells and whistles for electronics on ALL late model vehicles.... they also sell gas and ONLY pump it for you same self serve.Granted... the loaner if you need one (at no charge by the way) might be a Pinto!

    Oil change with Mobil 1, filter(non OEM,,,, a filter is a filter)... $60. Coolant flush? Why in heaven's name would you ever flush coolant? Toilet need flushing...coolant is like luggage... it lasts FOREVER!

    Repair curbed left front wheel (me too!)...$85.

    State Inspection including (damn them) the emissions inspection $89.

    I have found that quality does not necessarily relate to price charged.

    I am satisfied to be ripped off when I buy a BMW...damned if I'll tolerate it for service too.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    edited October 2010
    The basic coolant doesn't ever wear out, you are completely right about that, but the rust and corrosion inhibitors in that coolant do most certainly wear out---and that's why you flush.

    I also agree with most of what you say, except :surprise: "a filter is a filter".

    It has been my experience, and that of my friends who specialize in German cars, that a cheapo off-brand filter can cause problems.

    If you see a shop about to install a "Mrs. Fields Oil Filter" in your car, leap across the room and knock it from their hands, please. (no offense, Ms. Fields--just a joke).

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