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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    the SES light will go out after a certain number of warm-up cycles under no error conditions. The ECU has a counter, which counts no-error cycles. I think you need to reach 40 cycles with O2 sensor. So, yes, you should be fine if the light went out. As far as the O2 sensor being fouled by regular gas - it's a speculation really. The sensor compares oxygen content in the atmosphere and in the exhaust gas. If exhaust gas has too much or too little oxygen then the ECU will adjust gas-air mixture. If the difference is really out of range then SES light is displayed, so to be honest, I don't know if regular gas causes O2 sensors to go bad, may be the amount of carbon deposits may affect it but either way it's safe to say that using 93 octane is better, I do. Good luck
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    I had my front pads and rotors replaced about 10K miles ago. The pads and rotors were from the Nissan dealer. At some point a mechanic said that my break pads are too rough. Now I started hearing squeeling and uneven breaking at low speeds and so took the car for maintenance. My mechanic is replacing the pads and re-surfacing the rotors because they are grooved. How could this happen if the break pads were from a dealer. Can Nissan's pads really be to rough and should I go with softer pads from Bendix or something? Thanks
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    I removed the glove box on my 2K Max GLE and found the place where the filter should be installed but the slot is empty. Also, I do not have a label in the globe box indicating that there is a filter. I thought GLEs came with it or is this an option? Also, can I just go ahead and install the filter or if it's not there to begin with then may be the car is not designed to have it?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I was surprised that my '00 had the slot but no filters and thought that it was unlike Nissan to go el cheapo in that department. Guess not!!

    I used a wetvac to remove whatever dust/dirt in the area and wiped it down with a damp cloth before installing new filters. Still can't understand why they didn't install the filters as the unit is far more dirty than it needed to be due to their "cheapness".
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    I have owned a 2000 max SE 5 speed since new, and it has been a good car and only needed an o2 sensor, ECU update for the 5 speed driveability issue, and a bit of hard starting.

    I have since bought a 2000 Olds Intrigue GLS to replace it. Why, you say am I nuts? Well the Max has one of the weakest torque v6 motors I've ever seen. It barely gets out of its own way below 2800 rpm. I've driven a manual since learning in 1977 and I've stalled this car more than any other. It has to be driven like a rev happy motorcycle motor to make any power, down in normal driving range you can be beat by your mom in her Buick LeSabre. Granted, once up on the cam it does run well, but the flimsy 5 speed and 3 grand RPM at 70 does not do well for MPG. The cruise control is jerky, either on or off. The Japanese cars I've driven all seem to smog up the windows and require the AC on to keep clear regardless if outside vent is on, the radio is crap but does play CD's well.

    Anyway, the Olds has abundant torque from idle and 215 hp DOHC aluminum motor, uses regular gas and I'm getting 28-30 mpg on the highway, in more comfort and with a torque motor and automatic, its super good in traffic and around town. Has better crash ratings and stability control, etc.

    Both are good cars, but for me I'm glad to be getting rid of the weak torque import that takes prem fuel. Anyone interested in a sand colored 2000 SE 5 speed and nearly all options with less than 50k miles? Its also a Texas car with no rust, but some paint imperfections from parking lots.

  • pleeeeeeeeeeeasssseeeeeeeeeee
  • have you checked the heater core? if it is going you will get water all over your pass. floorboard
  • does anybody know the correct wiring sequence for a snap on scanner with a multi tap going to a 1990 nissan maxima?
  • bbradybbrady Posts: 1
    My extended warranty expired after 100k or 5 years with a reimbursment quarrantee if you did not use it but what they don't tell you is that you have to wait the 5 years to get your money back even though you can not use the warranty after 100k if that comes first. Very misleading.
  • phopho Posts: 9
    I have a 2003 max. Last week went to the dealer for maintance. The consultant suggested to have the computer update. I was wonder why the computer needed to update if my car was running fine. Anyway I did it. I did not find any differant before and after. My question was do we need to update the computer regularly.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    In my case with 5speed 2000, we had driveability issues as it cut the fuel at off throttle and it made for herky-jerky driving with the manual trans. The updated program fixed this. Your car might of had a similar but less noticable problem that could be fixed by software upgrade. Sort of like the Windows updates, although thank gosh not so frequently needed!

  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I just bought an 06 SL and have noticed that the visors rattle noticably. Has anyone else noticed this and is there a solution? Seems like maybe the springs that keep it folded up should be tighter.
  • will1979will1979 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 maxima SE with a Bose CD/Cassette system. The radio has died (I think - the display is dead, including the backlights, although the lights-not the radio-will come on when the front of the display is physically pushed). Is there anything quirky about replacing the system? Will I have to replace the speakers as well?
  • jgtmiljgtmil Posts: 19
    I have a 94 maxima and I'm replacing the water pump and timing belt, got everything off so far but the lower timing cover. Here's my question do I have to remove the lower pulleys to get the lower cover off or is there a trick to getting it off with out removing the pulleys. please let me know......
  • js19js19 Posts: 1
    I just received the bad news from my mechanic today that I need a new engine for my 2000 SE with 98kms (~60K miles). I'm not too happy (duh) but I don't have much choice but to pay the big $$ to fix it. I am hoping if I give some of the recent repair history that someone out there who knows a lot more about cars than I do can help me piece together what may have happened in case I have any recourse.
    - 4 months ago the check engine light came on (nothing new) but this time the car began to run rough
    - also noticed a bit of a rattle noise when accelerating from 100 km/h +
    - took it to my mechanic (non-dealer) & it read code P1320
    - he started with the "most likely" problem and replaced the spark plugs
    - two months later I was having the exact same problems
    - back to my mechanic and it read codes P1320 & P0303
    - after a lot of testing he narrowed the problem down to the ignition coil on #1 cylinder and replaced it
    - last week it started to run really rough and just about died when I got it to my mechanic
    - he tells me that the #2 piston has broken at the upper ring land and the piston and ring have damaged the cylinder walls & head
    - he priced it out and it is cheaper to replace the engine rather than fix it
    Now here I am facing a $4K repair bill or a great car with no engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    2000 Max did need a computer software upgrade but it is stated in Technical Service Bulletins as a remedy for at least 2 issues. If there is no Technical Service Bullettin for you model year indicating a need for a computer upgrade then you did not require it. Either way, a need for a computer software upgrade has to be documented. Search for bulletins online, there are web sites that publish all of them or you can get them directly from Nissan and probably for free.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    When you get P1320 you need to replace all 6 ignition coils because there is no easy way to determine which one was bad. There is a technical service bulletin on this issue. Code P1320 can be caused by defective Ignition coils or a crankshaft position sensor but usually just the coils. The second code you got P0303 is a misfire code on a specific cylinder. Sorry to rub it in but as soon as you got the P1320 all ignition coils should have been replaced possibly with spark plugs but only if plugs were fouled by bad coils. Replacing just the plugs in response to P1320 is a poor solution. I think your mechanic is to blame here. I do not know, however, if a bad coil can damage the cylinder, to be honest I doubt it, but assuming that it did makes it even more your mechanic's fault.
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    I am not a mechanic, but I doubt that these codes are the reason for your engine damage. First make sure it's not still covered under warranty, powertrain warranty is 60 month, 60K miles, and it's not unheard of a car company to offer some assistance if the warranty has just run out. If a dealer doesn't want to work with you, try Nissan USA 800 number, I think it's 1-800-NISSAN1, be nice and maybe they'll help you. If worst comes to worst, don't get a new engine, and don't get a rebuilt one. Find one with low miles at a junk yard or eBay, they can be had for as little as $500. Good luck!
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    the warranty is for 60 months/60K miles on the engine. He has a 2000 max and that's over 60 months now. Nissan is impossible to deal with. This particular issue - code P1320 was experienced by thousands of people and a petition was created but Nissan never recalled the vehicle for free coil replacement. Instead they issues a TSB on this issue and suggested to change all coils. This guys's mechanic did not do it, so Nissan will never agree to any warrantied service. Honda may be but not Nissan. Hey, js19, your mechanic replaced spark plugs to remedy code P1320, why don't you tow your car to a different garage. Have you actually seen the damage he described to you?
  • tre06tre06 Posts: 1
    I have an automatic 2000 Nissan Max GLE. It has 70k on it. In Jan. this year, it just totally died :sick: at an intersection. I had to apply the brake and gas to get it home. I took it to a Japanese aftermarket shop that's been in business for over 30 years. The tech said it could be a few things. The main issue was the code 0505, idle air control motor. He replaced that part at $400. Two months later, the car does it again at a busy intersection. I take it to Bankston Nissan in Lewisville, Tx where their diagnostic states the same problem and code. They also want me to pay their tech $95/hour to try to locate the main problem, plus the repair part. Come to found out, there are TSB on the issue of my problem. Bankston did not tell me that, they also said it could be a host of problems. I'm back at square one. I have to drive this sick car that will only remain running by constantly applying the gas and holding the brake. Can anyone tell me any possible solutions to this issue? :cry:

    Help me please...... tre
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Your shop techs should be able to follow a "failure tree" and do TESTS to determine what parts are defective, not just swap parts. Swapping parts is easy, its the diagnosis that is rare to find these days. If you have a shop manual from Nissan, they usually have tons of information, but the guys in the shop are usually only somewhat familiar with the details of the shop manual and only make quick assumptions of what the problems are with cars. Usually that works on most problems, but you need someone with skill to figure out what is wrong. It might be a Throttle position sensor (TPS), carbon on the throttle body, a vaccume leak, or other issues.

    Good luck, you'll need it.

  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    agreed with tre06, a test procedure should be performed, which is in the manual. Most mechanics have online subscriptions to most of the factory manuals if this is not a dealer. Aside from the actual IACV, there may be a vacume leak or the vacume port may be clogged up. If your mechanic purchased the IACV valve from Nissan and the dealer finds that it needs to be replaced again then obtain the receipts from the mechanic and get the IACV replaced at no cost for the part. In this case I would go with the dealer because if they fix something, charge you nad then the problem comes back then you can go back and have them inspect the car for free or put the charges in dispute. I had P0505 and the dealer replaced both the IACV and the ECU (computer). The ECU is under warranty for 80K miles or 8 years - that could be your problem too, the ECU.
  • lansdalelansdale Posts: 7
    I have a 93 Nissan Maxima that when you press on the gas it surges down to less than 1000 RPM. It has gotten really bad lately. Does anyone know what causes this? My check engine light is now on. Does this have anything to do with it?
  • tosataztosataz Posts: 1
    --dmaljunk's reply is right on the need to not only replace all 6 ignition coils at the same time, but you should consider replacing the spark plugs as well. I just went through all of this with my local mechanic who emphasized the need to do it all at once for my 2000 GLE Maxima w 42K. Good luck finding another mechanic.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Why replace coils that are Good with new parts that are good? I'm assuming this is because people don't want to test the adequately or revisit the problem later. You can search this forum and find a lot of people who have only replaced needed coil packs and had fine results.

  • felixtfelixt Posts: 4
    I have the same problem. My phone is a Cingular 8125. I just got the car yesterday and am really pissed that bluetooth isn't bluetooth. My phone is new to the market, it has the latest bluetooth standarts but nissan has their own list. Have you been able to solve your issue?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    I wasn't able to find just the one defective coil. It would be nice to hear how. If there is no other code then P1320 then you can do three things - 1) measure resistance on each disconnected coil with engine off - did that, all 6 coils fine. 2) take each coil out of its well but leave the harness connected, connect a new plug to the coil and crank the engine to observe the spark - don't want to crank my engine on five cylinders, not a good idea and a defective coil may still produce the spark. 3) reset the SES light, change one coil and drive until SES comes back on, if it does then the replaced coil was good, go to the next one - probably the best approach but what if you have two or more defective coils and what if the incident is intermittent, you really need to get lucky with just one defective coil and it's preferrable to have an OBD2 scanning tool for this, also the rear and front coils are not the same so you will probably start with front but what if it's the rear that's defective, then in the best case scenario you wll buy 1 front and 1 rear coil at at least $65 each. So, I just bought 6 coils on eBay for $270 shipped and replaced them all ;)
  • wselbywselby Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 maxima. It started dying occasionally when brought to idle. In park when idling it would constantly flucuate between 1000 and 1500 rpm. sometimes will not idle, other times idles perfectly but at lower than usual rpms. A friend at a local chevy dealer scanned and it read idle air control valve. 1. I used to do auto tech work, but that was 15 years ago(way behind). Is this a simple change out. 2. Where is the IACV located? 3. Will this likely fix my problem?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    iacv is right under the throttle body, entire air duct needs to be removed to get to it. If you have an MIL with this code then ye, the odds are that you need to change it but the code can also be caused by air leak or clogged up vacume canister. The part is $235 from the dealer. The labor ranges from $80 in smaller shops to $200 at the dealer.
  • arnold14arnold14 Posts: 22
    Is there any difference in performance and reliability between the 2005 Maxima SL and the 2006 model?
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