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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    7 and 3/4 quarts
  • rloborlobo Posts: 1
    Don't have a solution, unfortunately, but the same problem. Only, mine is an '02 Maxima GLE (the previous version), so looks like this is a recurring problem. Interested in hearing feedback from others.

    I just purchased a 2006 Maxima SE, and while driving home I immediately felt the vibration in the steering...and it's not subtle, either. I took it back and they rotated the tires and tightened the rack--didnt help. Well, last week some Nissan engineers came down here to the Dallas area to investigate this specific problem. Apparently, Nissan is aware of the problem but doesnt know the fix (or want to know in fear of a recall). I'm waiting until next week when I will take in again for yet another check...seriously though, if the Japanese guys who designed the damn thing cant fix it...i have little faith in my local Nissan dealer mechanics. I am seriously thinking about starting a website to try and get Nissan to address this. My 05 Altima had vibration as well, but not as bad as the Maxima. My email address is I'm really, really, interested in being in touch with other Maxima owners who have experienced the same thing. This is utterly unacceptable to experience in a 30 grand car...Nissan's "flagship".
  • It sounds like your idle air control valve has gone bad. The rough idling is because the valve is not controling the airflow well. Here is an article on how to replace the idle air control valve. This was done on a 2001 nissan maxima. Hope this helps! :) lve_replacement
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    wow, I think it will be too much. How is it possible that engine will use 4.5 qt and 5 speed auto 7 3/4? while flushing though I did not use any measurement but it took significantly less to flush A/T than engine oil. As far as I know too much oil is bad and that is why the most I will add is 1/2-1 qt.
    btw where did you find 7 3/4 number?
  • dahuberdahuber Posts: 53
    On our 2001 Maxima, it takes 4-5 quarts when just dropping the pan-not a flush.

    The best way to refill is to measure how much comes out, then refill the same amount and monitor the dipstick level.
  • My 2004 Maxima did this. It was the rotors. Someone else told me that the rotors are crap that are on the Maxima and many have replaced them with aftermarket ones. Even brakes. Go to
    It is the national highway and transportation complaint website. There are plenty of complaints on the Maxima's.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    7 and 3/4 number is from the factory service manual for your specific model and year. Manual tranny gets 2 and 3/8 quarts for the same model and year. But, it seems like you know what you are doing there without the manual...
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    Sorry , I am not quetioning your knowledge, But i did not find in the manual info on auto tranny. it only listed for manual one.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    You are probably referring to the vehicle owner's manual. That one has basic stuff only. This info is in the factory service manual (for service dealers and mechanics) in the Maintenance section (MA), page 10 (MA-10). Another reason not to go to dealers since they don't even know what's written in their own manual. Let me guess, it is the dealer who recommended the 30K miles service and insisted on tranny fluid replacemnt, right? And they didn't even know how much fluid to put in and you guys kind of agreed on 3.5 quarts? Oh well, I have heard of dealers saying that front headlights are not adjustable for a 2005 Maxima too. Putting in half the amount of tranny fluid is a bit strange though even for the dealer.

    Here is something else specifically on the type of ATF fluid to use (notice the type K fluid). This is straight from the manual and I hope you added the right type of fluid:

    "Using automatic transmission fluid other than Genuine NISSAN Matic K ATF will cause deterioration in driveability and automatic transmission durability, and may damage the automatic transmission, which is not covered by the NISSAN new vehicle limited warranty."

    Hope this helps, that's what this forum is for.
  • mikel9mikel9 Posts: 5
    The problem was my alternator died ,it was not charging the battery.
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    Thanks a lot. I did get original Nissan Oil and no I didn't do anything @ dealers except for warranty covered repairs and recalls(4). I am still upset and please help me. I was driving on highway with my wife and child in the back seat. I had my roof open. All of a sudden I hear a click and looking into my rear window see roof lining with reading lights collapsing into my child. Thank G-D my son is small and thus is riding in a rear facing seat so all it did is slightly hit him and wake him up. I went to dealers right a way ( I had to reattach it back so i can get my child out). Dealer said " Its cosmetics and is only covered up to 1 yr or 12K." who should I contact - a lawyer, NHTSA or Nissan USA? Should I get All?
  • But how can it be the rotors if the vibration doesnt happen only when braking?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    and the battery itself is good?
  • Hi,

    I was considering a set of new tires for my Maxima. I came across the Michelin HydroEdge tires at Costco.
    However this is T rated tires (which is 2 levels below the recommended tires). Recommended tires for the 01 Maxima with Performance package is H rated.
    I have read reviews about this tires that it has good traction. I don't really care about the performance aspect as my wife is the primary driver on
    this car and she is a very conservative driver.

    Other than taking a perforance hit, is there any other issues if I put the T rated tires on the Maxima?

  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    T speed rating is fine but obviously better suited for a family sedan such as a corolla. Generally, for a sports sedan with its suspension and handling, anything below H is not recommended for tires which are not winter-only. I don't think your Maxima is going to feel that great with those tires. I would go with what manual says and in your case it should be H rated with at least an 89 load index. If you are concerned with safety then get a touring or all-season type tire, not high performance. I have high performance Yokohama's on my 2K Maxima with 91 load index and V speed rating. They are great and not that expensive, costed me about 70 each.
  • I have 3 that I drive right now.'93,'94,and'00 and I think the '00 is the best one.It looks like the '03 once you change the head and tail lights but don't have the HP but with a few mods it'll be running like a wild horse.That's just my pick.
  • I have a 99 Nissan Maxima. Over a period of time a problem has been getting worse. It started when I would give it the gas to get up a hill....It seemed to 'stutter'. Progressivly getting worse. Now, even on flat roads it seems to skip a beat and the check engine light always comes on when this happens. In the past, it would be an on and off problem...Now it is everyday and the engine light never goes off anymore. I have replaced the plugs, 02 sensor, fuel filter, tranny fluid, air filter.....Any ideas? I even bought the $30 fuil cleansor from Napa with no improvement. Could it be an injector? Has anyone here had a similar problem? How did you resolve it?
  • i had same issue on my old car Buick Park Avenue Ultra and I simply did a tune-up as it fixed my problem. Also check fuel pump as it might have failed. Have you ever run out of gas recently, before it started happening or had less then 1/4 of gas in a tank? Also i had to do major repairs on my cars if I used injector cleaners. Check your manual as my manual for my car (05 Maxima) specifically says not to use any cleaners. Also if you use shell gas, i heard they already have some additives.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    these sound like common issues but unlike older cars your car is equipped with an OBD2 compliant computer. That Service Engine Soon light indicates that there are error codes stored in the computer. Start resolving this problem by going to AutoZone and getting a free computer scan. When they tell you the codes then post them here and then you will have a better chance of getting a precise advise on how to fix your problem. There could be many reasons for hesitation, the stored error codes may lead you to the right solution.
  • You are precisely describing the (gradually worsening) problem I had with my 2000 GLE. It will continue to get worse to the point where it will barely move. The problem was the Airflow Meter (or Mass airflow sensor). Nissan has redesigned that component. Take you car (and lots of $$) to a Nissan dealer. The ECM has to be reflashed as well. Hope that helps. Good Luck
  • I've been plagued with warped front brake rotors on my 2000 Maxima since it was new. Apparently, this is a common problem...the OE rotors are simply too small...they overheat and warp. I've decided to try a set of Brembo cross-drilled rotors (OE size). My question is..what type of brake pads should I use. Does anyone have any experience with ceramic pads? Do you recommend them over standard metallic pads?
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    Get factory belts. Cheap labor means cheap parts. Buy parts online at
  • I had the EXACT same problem with my '99 last year at around 90,000 miles. It drove me nuts becasue it was random and didn't leave any error codes for my dealer to find in my multiple trips to him over several months. I also couldn't find any information in this and other forums. It never got to the point you are at (check engine light staying on) but it was completely fixed by replacing the ignition coil in one of my cylinders. It wasn't too expensive ($275) and it has run great for another 25,000 miles. Hope this helps in time!
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    bad coils usually produce an error code and without it you need a real good mechanic to determine a misfire. I wouldn't throw money at coils if you are not sure that is the problem, they are not cheap.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    mattoaktree, as you can see you are getting different suggestions from people based on their own experiences. There may be many reasons for your car stuttering, did you get the codes out of your computer, what were they?
  • Havn't gotten the code yet. I did stop into one of the Autozones, but the guy said he couldn't get a good connection so he couldnt read it......I think I'll attemt it again at a different Autozone over the weekend.
    Thanks to everyone for your ideas!
  • I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima SE.

    I recently made a disasterous error when installing a remote starter and keyless entry system. When wiring in the keyless entry, the instructions gave options for 3 types of door locks, and I wired according to the wrong option (I wired for "type C" locks, and it should have been "type B").

    Symptoms: When I press the driver's window button in the driver's door, all you hear is a quiet double click coming from the switch. The motor makes no noise, and of course the window doesn't move.

    Also, driver's door power locks have stopped functioning. The lock actuator is not responsive. However, if all of the doors in the car are unlocked, and I manually lock the driver's door, the other three doors will also lock automatically.

    Questions: Is it possible that lock actuator and the window motor are individually fused? If so, where are the fuses for these two parts? After checking carefully, none of the fuses in the car in all fuse locations are blown. How can I be sure that the actuator and motor are definitely dead?

    Also, can anyone tell me where I can find detailed instructions for removing and replacing the lock actuator and window motor in a 99 Maxima? The Haynes manual only offers generic info, and after attempting to remove the two bolts that secture the lock actuator to the door, the actuator wouldn't budge.

    Your help is appreciated.
  • The other day I started my 99 nissan maxima and it died. I went to start it again and it cranks but will never start up. It has spark and fuel pressure. I changed the camshaft and the crank shaft senor tests good. The coils all test good. The PCM is not grounding the injectors. They have voltage though. I read some things about the security system doing this to the car. The security light stays on when the ignition is in the on position but someone told me that if it was the security system it wouldn't have any spark. Anybody have any idea on what my problem may be? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    Well if you have spark and fuel pressure and no start then logic dictates that the injectors aren't firing. Not sure what controls that process on your car, sorry.

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