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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 95' nissan maxima with 186k miles on it. I am having a problem with it starting and some surges. It surges when I slow down or get to a stop light and then cuts off. I have gotton a tune up and the mechanic doesn't know whats wrong. I am a struggling college student that doesn't have enough money to guess and check different solutions. If anyone can help at all, it will be much appreciated. thanks
  • It seems there is no end to my pain. I scraped the rear of my car on the house this am. I have a white paint scrape from the house on my right rear Qp. Any suggestions on how to get it off?? its not down to the metal, and I was able to get some off by scraping with my fingernail, so its not that deep. :mad:
  • If you can scrape some of it off with your nail then you should be able to use a clearcoat safe polish (do not confuse with rubbing compound!) to remove of the paint that transferred from house to car, and probably remove some of the superficial scratches. It won't help if it's down to the primer or metal, obviously, but it should make it look better. Let us know how it turns out.
  • Why not rubbing compound, that was going to be my first course of action. also, my other problem turned out to be a valve cover....
  • My 1996 Maxim SE has a rattle in the right front. It only makes this noise when I hit big bumps. Any idea what this might be?
    My husband is wondering if it is the shock assembly.
  • The problem u have is same as mine.
    I have a 93' nissan maxima as well.
    This morning I even could'nt start it. Last night I have poured a liquid to clean the injector/carburator but this morning even the starter engine is working I couldn't start the engine.
    Pls let me know if u learn what the problem might be.
  • Have you had the coils checked? It kind of sounds like a bad ignition coil/coils, or it could be an issue with the MAF sensor. Do you have a check eng light on? Unfortunately, it's not an easy engine to diagnose problems with, so unless you have a buddy who knows Maxima's you're probably going to have to pay some cash. My local dealer charges $50.00 to put it on the scanner, but mine is OBDII. Your 95 probably isn't (a few 95 cars were, but don't think the Maxima was one of them...) so not sure what the charge would be for pre-OBDII. Let me know what you find out. If you can get it fixed, the powerplant should give you plenty of life, at least get you through college.
  • go_usago_usa Posts: 3
    For You Information Only......

    1. Engine Stall or Die at Red light or Stop

    1. You need to replace your Mass Airflow Sensor, or
    2. You need to clean your Mass Airflow Sensor.
    3. Please try to replace your Air Filter as recommend by the manufacture.
    4. Please do not use any Fuel Injector clean, because it might cause to start the car when the Engine is Cold or in the morning.

    You can buy the cleaner at the Advance Auto Part. Please ask for the MAF cleaner. Please do not use any other cleaner because it might damage your MAF.

    This is for your information only. I am not responsible for post. I just want to share because it can save your money for useless sensor that you do not need to replace in the first place.

    Good Luck
  • go_usago_usa Posts: 3

    Sounds like you have a dirty Mass Airflow Sensor. You need to clean the MAF at once. You can pick up the Mass Airflow Sensor at the Auto Part. If you live near Advance Auto Part or Part of America, then go to store to pick up. Remember to ask for the Mass Airflow Cleaner!!!! The brand is CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner. Since you are at the store, please also pick up the Air Filter. Now on, if you replace your Air Filter, please clean your MAF as well. The computer is base the information on the MAF to inject gas to your engine.
    Good Luck
  • jseidjseid Posts: 2
    Did you get any resolution to your "hesitates/runs rough" problem? I have a 2000 Maxima with the same problem. Only gives me trouble in the morning and after work after it sits all day. My mechanic said to replace the spark plug coils?? I'm at 70K miles now.
  • jseidjseid Posts: 2
    Did you get any resolution to your clutch problem? I have a 2000 Maxima with the same problem.
  • Thought I would follow up in case anyone else was experiencing a similar issue. We did have a bad front right wheel bearing. We had been driving on it for a while so thank goodness there was no additional damage. The repair cost $273.00.
  • gotoyotagotoyota Posts: 280
    Why not rubbing compound

    Rubbing compound is usually too harsh for clear coat paints - used more for removing oxidation, and will also remove paint. It's abrasive. Polish is safer and won't hurt the finish. Just make sure whatever you try (if you haven't already) is safe for clearcoat and you'll be fine.
  • I think I have a very similar noise problem like you described for my 1995 Maxima SE with 117K miles. I have put in a set of 4 new tires and replaced the two front struts. Still the car is quite noisy. Is your car much quieter now? Was the repair job done at the dealer? Thanks in advance for your help.
  • go_usago_usa Posts: 3
    First, Fuel Injector cleaner is not the best solution for old car like 1995 or older. Actually, it makes even harder for you to start the car. I found out the hard way. Now, you either have to empty your tank or have to drive to empty the sooner the better.

    1. Hard to cold start -
    Suggestion: Don't add too much fuel injector to your gas tank. It makes the problem even worth.

    2. If your car STALL or DIE at stop light etc.
    a. Clean your Mass Airflow Sensor with MAF cleaner first.
    b. Trust me, I have been using the Multimeter to check for voltage while the car is running. It should reads between 1 and 1.7. Even though, it pass!!!. It still might be a problem. I had to replace mine. It costs me $224 at Advance Auto Part ONLINE.

    Good Luck
    GO USA
  • I actually put in the fuel injector cleaner and had stall problems when my engine was cold and also when it sat over night anytime after sitting about 5 or more hours. Also I just ended up changing my Mass Air Flow Sensor. And am now told the revolution sensor is bad. (what ever that is) And they said after they fix that I have to hope my Transmission control module (TCM) isn't gone bad and my Cylinoid because it will cost me $845.00 and $654.00 (WOOOOOWWW!!!!!!) I just bought the car in January and had to put my wife in a brand new car 2 weeks ago because the transmission died in her 2000 hoinda accord. It was a lemon it turns out. My car is a 2000 nissan maxima SL. I'm floored from hearing the news. But I'll just hope as they say that it may just be the revolution sensor which is $272.00. I just spent about $350.00 between diagnosis and repair for the mass air flow. So this will put me at about $622.00 and then you add another $1500.00 for what they say could potentially need repairs, and it becomes pretty tempting to just trade my car at that point and use that kind of money in case I need a down payment. But I love the car enought to just bite the bullet. Anyone no where to find a Cylinoid and transmission control moduele (TCM) for a decent price? (Just in case)
  • mfh08mfh08 Posts: 1
    I have replaced the bulb to no avail. low and high beams work on both headlights yet the regular daytime light only works on the passenger side healight. Lh or driver side headlight is off. I swapped the bulbs and the bulb works. I looked for blown fuses under the hood - nothing. Is there a relay controling only the left headlight daytime light?

    Any help would be appreciated!



    aka : frustrated!
  • My wife Maxima GXE is having the same problem, did you find out what you problem was?
  • xianlixianli Posts: 1
    I have this weir Drive position of clutch problem about 2 weeks ago. After I started my car, back from the parking lot, and shift from the Reverse to Drive position, the car does not creep forward. I have to move to 2 or 1 position and then back to Drive position, it works like normal. The clutch does feel loose when move from the Park or Reverse position to Drive positive. It seems that the transmission is ok. It drives me crazy, and do not know where to go. Does anybody have this similiar problem?


  • pengwinpengwin Posts: 74
    Hi, my 1994 maxima GXE wont go into park anymore. I was out driving it today and i pulled into a parking spot then i tried putting it into park and the button on the gear lever wouldn't go in(goes in half way and stops). Currently i have the car in the garage in neutral with the e brake on.

    any ideas as to why i cant go into park?

    also, my key just now got stuck in the ignition, came out earlier today when i had the car in neutral.

    little background, on most mornings i have to "wiggle" the gear lever otherwise the car wont start, I'm guessing this is because the transmission doesn't engage "park" or something, I'm no mechanic. But most days a little wiggle will start up the car. I'm sure this has something to do with my current problems

    my engine: VG30E, little over 100k miles
    tranny: RE4F02A (at least google says it is)
  • asia2asia2 Posts: 5
    I own 2000 GXE with about 76000 miles on it.I'm the first owner and so far I did not have any major problems except O2 sensor which I replaced couple years ago. Recently my car would start and a second later die (regardless of the temperature, warm rather than cold) than restart again without a problem, ocassionaly hit a "flat spot" on a highway (an awful feeling, especially if you a in a middle of a quick manuver), etc. I took it to my trusted mechanic, who is pretty clueless since the computer doesn't show any codes, but has a few ideas including fuel injectors. The total cost would be around $2000. Recently I visited Nissan dealership just to take a pick at the new Rogue and of course asked for a quote on my possible trade - in. I would get $4000; that means that the repair would cost me a half of car's value. Does it make sense to keep it? Does anybody know something about the Rogue - during test drive it seemed sooo slow comparing to my old "Maxi"?
  • gotoyotagotoyota Posts: 280
    The dealer is never going to offer you full value for your trade. A 2000 Maxima for $4K would be a steal, assuming its condition is decent, and you should be able to get a much better price for it if you sell on your own. I bet I could get somewhere in the neighborhood of $2.5-3K for my old '97 with 200K on it. I don't know how your mechanic can quote a price when he doesn't know what to look for??? Take it to the dealer - it might cost $100 or so to have them do a diagnostic, but their scanner can read stored codes that don't trigger a check engine light. It could be a faulty knock sensor, bad fuel injectors, bad ignition coil(s)... the list goes on. Your car is surely worth more than $4k though, and I certainly wouldn't discard it just yet.
  • asia2asia2 Posts: 5
    Thank you, I checked Kelly Blue Book, and 2000 GXE goes for anywhere between $5900 and $7900. I still would be happy to get anything in $6K area... I considered dealers offer just to save me some hassle (all those car things don't come so natural to women and we are treated differently at dealerships or shops...) I love the car, it still gives me a shiver when it accelerates and I would like to keep it. The problem is, that the mechanic gave me a quote for everything he planned for my car so far, with hope that it would fix the problem. What if it doesn't? I have not seen my car since Wednesday (good thing he gave me a loaner - 14 year old Intrepid, still running!) Last time I heard from the shop was on Friday and they told me that during the test drive on the highway my car would stutter and shake . It was not happening before!!! And apparently they only replaced spark plugs so far! The guy worked on my previous 3 cars and was OK. I'm afraid I will end up towing my Maxima to the dealer, they shoulnd't charge much more than $99/hr (what the mechanic charges me)
  • gotoyotagotoyota Posts: 280
    Wow, not to alarm you, but... The problem with a lot of independent shops is that they really are not very specialized. In my experience, if they don't specifically specialize in a foreign brand, they don't know foreign cars very well. I have known a few mechanics fairly well and have a friend who owns a shop. They have all said the same things, that the vast majority of their business comes from American makes (for whatever reason - that's beside the point ;) ) - they rarely see Nissan, Toyota or Honda. I doubt this is much different from everywhere else. They pay thousands of dollars for the types of scanners they use, not to mention the money they pay for training - if they actually go to school for it - and since foreign makes don't account for a large part of their business, few shops invest in the tools or training to work on them. Your mechanic should not have just started working on your car without having at least a 90% hunch what to work on. The problem now is he has your car and doesn't have a clue what he is doing, apparently, and you are paying him hourly for it. There is a list of known issues on the Maxima that could have caused the type of symptoms you are having and the dealer would be able to check those things without wasting your time and money like this mechanic appears to be doing. My advice is to cut your losses with your mechanic now and take your car to a reputable dealer before you lose any more money with this guy who probably should not be working on your car. Case in point - my old Maxima had a check engine light recently so I took it to the dealer. As old as my car is, you would expect it to cost a ton of money to fix. It certainly could have... but the dealer found the problem to be a dirty EGR valve. The computer said it was an EGR temp sensor that wasn't switching, but since the mechanic was experienced he knew the problem was due to the fact that the EGR system was clogged with soot, so they cleaned it out and now it's fixed. An independent shop would not have known what the P1404 code was for because their scanners won't tell them (it's Nissan specific) so they would have just started replacing stuff, most likely, in an effort to get the business. At best, they would have replaced the EGR temp sensor, which would not have fixed the problem. Then what? Well I can tell you, they would have found some other thing that needed to be replaced because it's an old car and you can find all kinds of things that could be replaced, and it would have cost me a fortune. I spent $260.00 for labor and now my car is fine. So, sorry for lengthy post, but this guy may very well find $2000.00 worth of things to do on your car, but still not fix the problem. Get it back and take it to a dealer!
  • asia2asia2 Posts: 5
    THANKS AGAIN, IRONICALLY THE GUY'S BUSINESS HAS "IMPORTS" IN THE NAME! I even saw a Porsche there - that would explain $99/hr charge!I think he works on foreign cars but still , it appears he has no clue what a problem with my car is. And now it jerks when it drivers!!! I will take it to the dealer (plenty to chose from, I live in one of Chicago suburbs), but I'm still afraid I will be taken advantage of. Did I mentioned that in addition to my gender, English is my second language?
  • gotoyotagotoyota Posts: 280
    Well, I see why you're a little reluctant, but I think if you call around you will find a dealer who is trustworthy and there are folks that will treat you respectfully and not take advantage of you. Plus most dealer shops have better trained management and have the reputation of the dealer to uphold. It might be helpful to ask people you know if they can recommend a good dealer. I wish I had a list of qualifying questions to share, but I don't. I called around to the various dealers and described the problem I was having and found a dealer I liked. I chose the one I did because they listened and seemed confident they could fix it, and they understood that I didn't want to spend a fortune on an old car that I plan to retire in a year of so. Good luck, I'm sure you will be able to find a good Nissan shop that will treat you well and fix your problem without giving you the run around while they try to guess what the problem is. :shades:
  • asia2asia2 Posts: 5
    That was actually a great advise. I did not think of shopping around for best service from the dealer (I would shop around fro a new car though)I plan to keep my Maxima a little longer - it was my first brand new car and to make my money well spent I wanted to keep it for about 8-10 years. Just out of curiosity - does anyone know anything about new Rogue? To me it is a good looking car, the Altima engine has proved itself over the years, it offers a lot as standard equipment, the only downside - non existent acceleration...
  • gotoyotagotoyota Posts: 280
    The November issue of Car and Driver has a full review of the Rogue. You can probably still find some issues at the news stands. It looks like a decent little sport ute, but only comes with the 2.5L 4 cyl. It has decent output for a 4 cyl, but still, a 4 cyl doesn't feel like a 6! The CVT doesn't help that feeling either. Since it's a new model you should be able to find lots of reviews.
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    If i were you, I would wait a year to have nissan fix all issues with that car. Its a new car so there will be some issues with it. BTW review in motor trend was average.
  • gotoyotagotoyota Posts: 280
    Nah, I'm not planning to buy one. At the dealer last week when I had my Maxima in for some work, I decided to walk the lot and check out a few cars... of course a salesman was by my side in no time, trying to sell me a new Rogue. I wasn't even remotely interested - I just don't care for the styling that much. I was very tempted to spring for a new Altima 3.5 or a Maxima though - I could've gotten either for around $21-23K. Dealers are willing to DEAL right now... too bad I'm not ready to buy yet. I just bought the wife an 07 Toyota Sienna Limited and I need to pay that off first (hopefully by this summer), then I will be shopping for a replacement for my tired old 97 Maxi with 200k on it. Kinda leaning toward a G35 though - I can't see getting away from that VQ!
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