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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • My car needs coils and spark plugs at 90000 miles. Where can I buy genuine Nissan parts online and get the ones with the new part number at a low price?
  • og4lifeog4life Posts: 25
    I have a 99 maxima SE and my car has been pulling to the right for some time. I just got a realignment (3rd one in less than two years) and the problem is not solved. Does anyone have any advice? I just bought new tires and the air pressure is right. Would bad struts cause the car to pull? My mechanic said they should be replaced soon.
  • fg54fg54 Posts: 2
    Would anyone know what the ERT is to replace rear brake pads and rotors for a Maxima?
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    they should last you 40k+. Though it all depends on type of driving you have and the environment.
  • fg54fg54 Posts: 2
    Thank you for your response but, I am looking for the Estimated Repair Time (ERT).
  • tb4metb4me Posts: 41
    Hi all. I just changed my spark plugs(112000 miles) and the idle increased to about 1000 rpm in park and 850 rpm in gear. I used the ngk original replacement plugs and yes had to remove the upper intake to get to the back ones. Used a new gasket when putting back together too, cleaned the throttle plates and runners with gumout while it was off. The engine seems to run fine however in addition to the idle increase, the check engine light came on a few days later but continues to run good.. I checked for vacume leaks and there are none. Any suggestions before the trip to the dealer?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Check engine light is always associated with emissions. I would go to a auto parts store and have them pull the codes associated with the light rather than try and guess what the problem is.
  • dgm1974dgm1974 Posts: 4
  • tb4metb4me Posts: 41
    thanks--will try that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    what year maxima?

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  • daubdaub Posts: 1
    Just had the identical problem with my son in laws Stratus. Auto Zone said it was the "output speed sendor on the transmission". Went to the dealer for the part. $20.00. Found where it was located and replaced. Works great. The speedometer not working is a clear sign. Make sure you replace the "output" sensor as there is an input that looks similar.
  • ldc5ldc5 Posts: 4
    The check engine light started coming on about 9 months after buying my '02 Maxima, with the P0138 code. Although it only has ~78K miles on it, I replaced the O2 sensor recommended by the error code diagnosis and cleared the error code using an Actron analyzer. The same code still comes on......any advice to finally resolve putting-out this darn check engine light is greatly appreciated.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    You might need to have the harness checked for bad wiring. This can cause the ECM to get a weird voltage signal from the 02 sensor 2, and throw the P0138 code.

    So maybe clean up whatever connections you can and clear the code. It might clear itself. Sometimes they do.

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I had a similar problem once. Replaced the O2 sensor, cleared the check engine light, after running a couple of minutes the check engine light returns. Code says MAF then I'm thinking man this sucks and yank the battery cable and left it off for 30 minutes. Reconnect and all codes cleared and never came back.

    Sometimes a hard reboot will do it.
  • ldc5ldc5 Posts: 4
    Thanks will try this first, before ripping into checking continuity along the harness
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    No Haynes won't do it.

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Agreed. I bought the Nissan factory manual DVD on ebay for my now sold '00 maxima for $20+ shipping. I would try there first.
  • donmac66donmac66 Posts: 1
    What year cars will replace the IAC valve. Are they they interchangeable on other models as well. I am looking at replacing with a used one.
  • ldc5ldc5 Posts: 4
    Thanks much for you advice, in not bothering with the Haynes manual. I received the CD version of Nissan's manual off ebay. A quick scan of it, looks good.

    Now to troubleshooting this annoying P0138 code. I meant to previously include mentioning that I saw an old posting out on the internet, not on this site, that someone indicated the ECM may need to updated software/firmware, since there was a version of code that could cause the ECM to be too sensitive, falsely tripping the error code? Did you know of this possibility? If so, is this something that is dealer fixed only?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Here's what I found for you on that:



    July 16, 2003

    2000-2002 MAXIMA; MIL "ON" WITH REAR 02 SENSOR DTC P0138/P0139/P0140/P0158/P0159/P0160/P1147/P1167

    This bulletin supersedes NTB01-016B, and amends NTB02-051. This version updates the Service Procedure and Applied Vehicles.

    Please discard all paper copies of NTB01-016 and previous version of NTBO2-051.
    2000 - 2002 Maxima (A33)


    An Applied Vehicle has an MIL "ON" and any of the following DTCs stored in the ECM:
    ^ P0138 (Bank 1) H0252 (Rear) (Max Voltage Monitoring)

    ^ P0139 (Bank 1) H0252 (Rear) (Response Monitoring)

    ^ P0140 (Bank 1) H0252 (Rear) (High Voltage)

    ^ P1147 (Bank 1) H0252 (Rear) (High Voltage Monitoring)

    ^ P0158 (Bank 2) H02S2 (Rear) (Max Voltage Monitoring)

    ^ P0159 (Bank 2) H0252 (Rear) (Response Monitoring)

    ^ P0160 (Bank 2) H02S2 (Rear) (High Voltage Monitoring)

    ^ P1167 (Bank 2) H02S2 (Rear) (High Voltage Monitoring),


    This bulletin applies by performing steps 1 and 2 of the Service Procedure.

    a. Replace rear Oxygen Sensor(s) (H02S2).

    ^ 2000 federal emissions Maximas have only 1 rear 02 sensor (Bank 1); replace it.

    ^ Other Maximas have 2 rear 02 sensors (Bank 1 and Bank 2); replace both.

    b. Reprogram the ECM:

    ^ Standard reprogramming procedure (if vehicle has a standard airflow meter, P/N 22680-AD200 or 22680-6N201-see Chart A-1), or

    ^ Special reprogramming procedure using ECM ID code (if vehicle has an updated airflow meter, P/N 22680-2Y001 or 22680-AM600-see Chart A-2).

    ^ The purpose of "ACTIONS (above) is to give you a quick idea of the work you will be performing. You MUST closely follow the entire Service Procedure as it contains information that is essential to successfully completing this repair.

    ^ Due to the complexity of this procedure, this procedure should only be performed by a technician who is already familiar with ECM reprogramming.

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  • lovejplovejp Posts: 1
    I just had my vent blower go out. I took the dash apart and found that the wire plug going into the resistor had heated up and slagged. Is this a symptom of some wiring/relay defect or should replacing the resistor and plug solve the problem? The fan/motor seems okay though I don't have an electronic circuit tester. No fuses blew that I could find and no code was thrown. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Hard to predict but since melting is a sure sign of excessive resistance, one would suspect that replacing the resistor is, at least, a logical guess.

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    And before putting everything back together watch and see if you have another meltdown. Better the resistor than a nuclear reactor.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    That's good advice. I'd test it out and watch it for a while.

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  • I own a 2003 manual Maxima SE that has 150k miles. I have already had two complete engines replaced under warranty. Nissan could not (or would not) tell me why either of the engines replaced failed, though oil consumption was main indicator. Now the third engine is using oil (quart every 500 miles), even though engine only has 45k on it, and of course is no longer under warranty. I have never experienced this with any of the other vehicles I have owned, Nissan or otherwise. Has anyone heard of engine issues with the manual version of the Maxima??
  • bode3bode3 Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Maxima with 140K. We have a recent problem with a very rough idle when the car is engaged but stopped (doesn't happen in park). Car runs beautifully otherwise. Local mechanic said he could not see anything obvious and could not get enough information from the car and thought the cost of trouble shooting could easily exceed the worth of the car.
    Has any one experienced a similar problem?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Check you idle air controller.
  • thank you for putting this up as i am having the same problem with my one of my o2 sensors. i understand that in order to fix the problem i need to replace both of the o2 sensors followed by an ECM reprogram. my question is, if i wanted to save myself the labor costs of replacing the o2 sensors would it be harmful to my motor/what would be the effect of replacing the sensors at home then to drive a few miles to the dealer to have the ECM reprogram done. also cant any shop do a reprogram or is that something only a dealership can do? thank you for your time MR SHIFTRIGHT
  • bode3bode3 Posts: 3
    just keep this in mind. I have now replaced the o2 sensor three times. Once with a local shop and twice with the dealer. Every winter it has difficulty starting and the check engine light comes on. I had enough of replacing these sensors and have driven the car for five years now. The dealer also replace the wiring harness thinking it might be a worn wire.... no, $1500 later I have the same problem but it does not impact the drivability.
  • bode3bode3 Posts: 3
    thanks. I actually took the car out and really pushed it uphill. It made a big difference. I think short drives were creating a build up of carbon. 13 years old and still a nice ride.
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