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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • ashmaxashmax Posts: 1
    I took my maxima in for an inspection and it did not pass due to the service engine light being on. The mechanic said 3 fault codes popped up which were: P0110, P0325, and P0100.
    A friend said my O2 sensor might need to be changed and it would correct all those codes.
    If anyone knows anything further on this and know how much $$$ this might end up costing me please give me some input!

    Thank you!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank I or Single Sensor)
    P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
    P0110 IAT Circuit Malfunction

    You need to replace a knock sensor on bank 1, MAF, Intake Air Temperature is usually a function of the MAF so I'd replace the MAF and check it from there.

    BTW, I don't see anything relating to the O@ sensors. So how did your friend figure this out?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,596
    computer codes don't identify the defective component. All they can do is tell you the system, circuit or component that is currently unhappy. As to WHY it's unhappy, that requires further hands-on diagnostics. The MAF can be tested and that's an excellent place to start.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • 99max299max2 Posts: 2
    I have a 99 maxima, its been a great vehicle for its 240k. after the 1st 100k i made the stalling go away with O2, plugs, coils, mass air flow being replaced, even at 190 when it returned i replaced O2 plugs, coil and mass air flow. but it isnt going away. for a day it will run fine then slowly start back.
    It boggs down when first taking off. Then as it warms up it becomes more pronounced. Soon even when running at higher speeds the RPMs drop. At this point it wont idle in park and can become very hard to start again.
    I never have replaced the Idle air control valve. Thats my next step. any other sugestions ? I dont wont to get rid of it. The engine and transmission and appearance are stll very good. But when after bringing it to Nissan and they could not ID it I am very discouraged.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    When was the last time you changed out the catalytic converters? Those will definitely plug after awhile. While you should get a check engine light when they go bad, sometimes you don't.
  • 99max299max2 Posts: 2
    I have not replaced and the dealership has not suggested that on this problem. My emissions inspection passes very well. Maybe it has lasted so long because i only use bp premium. Thank you for your reply and i will check converters too.
  • rexkayrexkay Posts: 1
    On my 96 the map sensor was heat sensitive and gave me problems as the day got hotter. After coils, plugs, and maf , I wrapped the map sensor with a rag and duck taped it. Ran great when kept cool so I replaced it and problem was solved. If it is running really bad pull a couple plugs and if they are fouled I bet it is the map sensor.
  • November 22 was the first full very cold day, in the Northeastern NJ area (suburb of NYC). I found that when I started my 2001 Maxima GLE, the steering seemed to be locked. I could turn the wheel, but it was as if the car was in neutral with the engine off.

    This is happening while the car is stopped in drive or when it is in park. When I depress the accelerator while in drive to move the car, the steering returns to almost normal function (still has a bit of sluggishness). After letting the car warm for a while the steering almost returns to normal, with the exception that when turning the wheel to the furthest extreme of the turning radius, I feel the wheel giving jerking resistance to the car being turned.

    I checked the power steering fluid level, and it is between the cold maximum and cold minimum levels. Is this the power steering pump? Could there be moisture in the power steering fluid, which has frozen?? Or could air in the power steering fluid lines cause this? What is casing this problem?
  • I have a 2.5 inch header and a 21/4 short pipe with glass pack on this car. I has a bad miss. It only does it on startup. It stops as you drive it. But at low rpm it does it. Driving down the road, in overdrive it does it. I thought that the short pipe would cause this, being that the o2 is not holding heat. I'm lost and would love some advice. Like I said it comes and goes.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Are you running double gaskets where the header meets the exhaust? Depending on the manufacturer of the headers there might be a small gap that a second gasket would eliminate.
  • I'm not running double gaskets, but the hearder connection is a O gasket. The only other ones is the head to header gasket. The manu. is pace setr. I didn't do the work. My best friend did, and it is WELL done. I put plugs and wires on it today. Runs SO much better. I had some info that was not told to me... :P
  • i have a 2000 maxima gle, 99k had the car since it was brand new. past 6 months it has been having problems starting. i recently burnt out my starter, once started runs great! so i just replaced starter and in past year replaced alll ignition coils, battery, alternator, plugs, tensioner, etc.. anyway the dealership told me it was becasue of corrosion in between the motor and yeh right, he said becasue i use to live in new jersey that the salt from the snow corroded it up. never heard of that ever! they want to charge 3,400$ to clean it out! im not dumb, whenever it try's to start you have to give it gas and more gas. if i turn the key on and off like 5 times and start it up it starts perfect! please help?
  • I am looking into doing my first tune up in many years. My car is a 2001 Nissan Maxima. I am told that there are many different types of plugs for this car. They range in cost from $3.99/each to more than $11.99/each. They go by names that include; Iridium, Platinum and the like. I was told by a sales person that the fancy more costly ones have a hotter spark.

    My knowledge of how plugs and combustion work is; that the plug fires at the maximum fuel/air compression level to get the most power from the combustion.

    Does the heat of the spark make a difference? Isn't it true, that once the minimum flash point of the spark necessary is achieved for detonation to takes place, any heat (energy) over and above that flash point, necessary to cause detonation of the fuel/air mixture is superfluous?

    If my understanding is true, then spending more money on expensive plugs, is waistful. Please tell me what the real deal is. :confuse:
  • guuguu Posts: 10
    wash both ends of your battery cables with baking soda paste, or classic coke
  • guuguu Posts: 10
    cheaper plugs will tend to not spark more often
  • My '01 has about 80,000 miles. Recently I have had a problem with my car not accerlating when I step on the gas. It starts fine, runs well, and then it will sound like it is staying in a low gear and not shifting up. The tachyometer revs up to 4 or 5 but the speedometer stays only about 20 mph no matter whether I step on the gas or not. After pulling the car over "to rest" it has started up and ran fine after about 20 to 30 minutes. This has happened three times in the past month or so. The engine just seems unable to develop and/or sustain power.

    My local mechanic put it on a diagonstic and said it was not transmission related. I am reluctant to take it to the dealer because the car ran fine for my mechanic when I brought it to him.

    Any thoughts much appreciated!
  • My '01 has about 80,000 miles. Recently I have had a problem with my car not accerlating when I step on the gas. It starts fine, runs well, and then it will sound like it is staying in a low gear and not shifting up. The tachyometer revs up to 4 or 5 but the speedometer stays only about 20 mph no matter whether I step on the gas or not. After pulling the car over "to rest" it has started up and ran fine after about 20 to 30 minutes. This has happened three times in the past month or so. The engine just seems unable to develop and/or sustain power.

    My local mechanic put it on a diagonstic and said it was not transmission related. I am reluctant to take it to the dealer because the car ran fine for my mechanic when I brought it to him.

    Any thoughts much appreciated!
  • guuguu Posts: 10
    In order for the diagnostic to work there has to be a current problem or a flag. A good mechanic would know this. Did you tell him what you told us? It sounds like a tranny or torque converter problem to Me and it sounds like you know it too but your drive line should be more durable than that unless you are very hard on it.
  • Thank so much, but how would I know if I am hard on my "drive line?" Yes, I did
    tell him exactly what I told you. He said that I needed to bring it in WHEN
    it was having the problem. He's usually a super mechanic so I don't understand why he wouldn't know what you stated. Oh well, I'm getting ready to drive up to
    Melbourne to pick up my mom tomorrow and hoping I don't have any problems!
  • kzakkzak Posts: 13
    I have a big problem. My CV Joints were bad so I took my car to my stepdad's mechanic, and had them replaced. Now they are worse than before... They "knock" almost every time I turn and "knock" majorly when I go over speedbumps or any kind of bump. It sounds horrible like my car is gonna fall apart! My boyfriend thinks they might not have been greased when replaced. PLEASE help, I have no idea when it comes to cars! :cry: thanks for any input
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,596
    Sounds like a mis-diagnosis of the original problem. A CV joint usually knocks when turning the car while under power, not when going over a speedbump with your foot let off the gas.

    You'd better get under there and figure out what's really wrong.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Take it back to the shop and tell them you want it fixed. And find out who the idiot that made the initial diagnosis cause he will probably have to handle the "come back" job that you're going to dump on him. Stepdad's mechanic eh? After a test drive, did they even do one? You have to wonder what they were thinking when it sounds worse than when you brought it in.

    So if they don't believe you, or try to blow you off, take them on a test drive, in fact, insist on it. Then ask them if they have your original parts that had nothing wrong with them. You have to be forceful but not obnoxious when presenting your case.
  • kzakkzak Posts: 13
    I have the same problem with my 2000 max se. When i took it to the dealer for ignition coil replacement, they noticed and said theyd fix it. Even after they "fixed" it, it is still sticking out :confuse: .... also open to suggestion on how to fix??
  • Kzak-First I hope you have your receipt. Always save your receipts for future proof of work done! That will itemize exactly what was done to your car. If you take it somewhere else, and they tell you it was not replaced, the you have proof. You might want to go to another mechanic to make sure they were. Were the axles changed with the CV joint unit? (This would be done by most experienced mechanics). How many miles have you driven since the repair? Try to determine which side the noise comes from. It should not be both sides if they were both replaced.
    It is very possible it is the wheel bearings on one of the sides and not the CV joint at all. You can check your wheel bearing by jacking up the front end, (have your boyfriend do this). Wiggle the front wheels left to right and up and down to figure out if there is excessive play. If the wheel bearing is bad, it will appear to be loose even though the wheel is on tight. This is a big possibility when you go over bumps and get a lot of noise when you turn, that a wheel bearing nut can be loose. I would take it back and specifically tell them it was suggested to you that they check and tighten the wheel bearing nuts if necessary.
  • I have an 2004 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SE and I have notice when the weather starts to turn cold the Cd player skips unbareably. When the car warmed up, it usually would start playing fine but now it doesn't. I have brand new cd's and it still skips. I have cleaned it and it still skips. I even tried calling the dealership to see if there was ever a recall on the cd player for the issue and they told me no and of course its not under warranty any more so that gave me the option of buying and replacing it for 430.00! So if you have had the similar problem or have fixed yours PLEASE let me know i'm a college student and 400.00 don't come easy!
  • dx1hfdx1hf Posts: 4
    Need help from the group on this surprising diagnosis. The car has 94,000 miles on it and I purchased it used from a Toyota dealer about 1 year ago. The service engine light came on after about 6 months of driving it but the car was running fine otherwise. I took it to the local Nissan dealer for diagnosis and they say both catalyst converters and 2 oxygen sensors are gone for a total of $2865. Is this normal for the 2001 Maxima SE? What causes this ...hard driving? Also, when I asked the Nissan dealer if they could just replace the 2 oxygen sensors and then clear the codes they said...well there are really 4 oxygen sensors that we would have to replace (the number went form 2 to 4 ?? I don't get it). Please help if you can.
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I had a 2003 Maxima SE and had to have my O2 sensors replaced after the Check Engine light came on. Luckily for me, it was still under warranty at the time (makes you wonder when a part like this fails at the 20k mileage point). Perhaps a common point of failure?
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 3,017
    I have an '01 and haven't replaced any of those things. If the car is running fine, I would just ignore the codes. I would think that if the sensor were bad the car would not be running well.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • I have 01 Infiniti I 30...essentially same car.

    The Check engine light comes on very easily on these.
    Disconnect the battery cable and leave it overnight. It will reset the computer.

    Filling the gas on a hot day and not closing the cap properly can also cause this.
  • dx1hfdx1hf Posts: 4
    Thanks to all who have responded so far. I did the battery disconnect a couple months ago but the issue keeps coming back. The dealer says the ECU is posting P0420 and P0430 errors. The ECU was flashed in 2002 so it has the latest code with the fix for NTB00-070a (Service Bulletin to address computer incorrectly posting P0420 code). I checked with a 3rd party shop...and they say they can most likely get the code to clear by replacing the front converter assembly for $965.00 (price includes all fees, labor etc.). They say most of the time this repair will clear the codes without replacing any O2 sensors. However, they advise to do the front converter assembly repair, reset the computer, and drive it for awhile ...if a service code comes back then look into replacing the applicable O2 sensor. But Nissan dealer says if your going to replace Catalyst parts to clear the codes then they strongly recommend replacing the entire system (front cat...back cat ...and 2 Oxygen sensors for $2865.00 -includes 1 free coffee and a complimentary lobotomy). LOL I think I'll try the 3rd party solution unless anyone has any other proven repair strategies .... but it seems like, generally speaking, you just don't get enough information out of the ECU codes to guarantee a fix -unless, as the dealer states...replace the entire system :-( Otherwise a great car that I would love to keep.
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