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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • 02 sensors are not a common failure on this model. The P0420 & P0430 are catalyst failures not 02 sensors failures. Ignoring a P0420 & P0430 can cause engine failure.
  • vu2000vu2000 Posts: 58
    I just bought a used 2007 Maxima SL with 76,500 miles. The oil has been changed every 7500 miles per manual. Tires were just changed at 71K. The owner tells me the brakes were done at 50K. The air filter was changed per factory specs. My question is does the CVT fluid and radiator coolant need to be changed anytime soon. Also, does any other maintenance need to be done. Thanks for any reply.
  • I seem to have the faulty ignition coil problem with my 2001 Maxima. My mechanic said that I should bring it to Nissan since they can figure out which coil it is so I would not have to replace all 6. I called Nissan and they said I should replace all 6 because if one is bad they are all going to go bad, etc. After some internet research and fidning this thread I see this is an ongoing problem with this car.

    My husband wants to change the coils himself but I am not sure which ones to purchase or where to purchase them from? Can anyone help me with this? Also, is there a step by step guide he could follow? He is pretty good with cars but has never done a coil replacement before.

    Thanks for any help you could give me!
  • vu2000vu2000 Posts: 58
    Try, they have the parts you are looking for. The coil cost from $52 to $66 each depending on if it is the front or rear coil(3 front, 3 rear). I have ordered several items for my 07 Prius, and I am now looking to order other parts for my 07 Maxima. Their prices are very reasonable.
  • How do you figure out its ignition coils?
    I have 2000 Infiniti I30...essentially same car.

    Twice it hesitated in starting
    Yesterday morning when I was taking it out of the garage..gear in reverse the engine idled rough. Service engine soon, SLIP, and TCS off light went on.

    Turned the car off.
    Started it again SLIP & TCS off light went away
    Service Engine Soon light is still on. Any suggestions?

    Thanks for help
  • Its not required to change, but if i were you I would change coolant and find out from previous owner if they changes @ 30k/60 k their transmission OIL
  • vu2000vu2000 Posts: 58
    No, the transmission fluid wad not changed. I guess I better get it changed. The owners manual was not too clear about this subject. Thanks.
  • pg2pg2 Posts: 3
    Replacing all 6 ignition coils is very expensive and bull---t ! To find out which one is bad try this. With the engine not running remove one plug wire from the plug and then start the car up to see if the engine runs rougher. If it does that means this cylinder is running ok. Repeat this on each cylinder until you get a cylinder that does not run rougher. This will be the cylinder that has the bad coil. The coil is connected to the top of the plug. Remove it and go to Auto Zone and buy a new one. This is what I did on my 2000 maxima last year and it's still running like new. Total cost about $60.00. :)
  • Try for OEM ignition coils. They are about $75.00 each. I recently bought 6 ignition coils and spark plugs for 514 delivered. Will change the coils tomorrow.

    2001 I30 and maxima are identical cars.
    Another source is courtesy nissan for OEM coils.

    The process of changing it is very simple. Details can be found at

    link title


    link title

    If you are interested in complete service manual they can be downloaded from

    link title

    best of luck
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    I recently purchased a 04 maxima with high mileage. The car has been taken great care of, with very good service records. all highway miles. It runs and drives awesome but it has a leak. The leak is in the oil pan and oil cooler area, it is migrating all in that area, onto the control arm and up near the pullies. Here is the thing I cant figure out if it is oil or power steering fluid, I cant detect any loss on the dipstick,but when I turn the steering sharp it makes a little groaning sound. I have heard the o-ring on the oil cooler is something that goes alot on this model. I really need to identify what is leaking cause I dont have much faith in honest mechanics in My town.Also cause it is saturating some of the sensors in that area.My other problem is a driver side headlight, It is equipped with the HID lights, during driving it starts flickering and goes out,but turn the lights off and back on and it fires back up, ballast or bulb? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. thanks
  • Process of elimination.
    If you know how to check the power steering fluid do that, if not check this...the motor oil will appear brown golden color or black if very old, and the power steering an d transmission fluid is usually a berry red. If you keep your car in a garage, put paper under the car and it will give you a better idea of the type of oil and location of the leak. To avoid costly power steering repair Bahrs makes a sealant for power steering units along with radiator cooling sealants. That might be a good idea to add to your power steering fluid when you see that it is low. That is most likely the problem from what you are describing. Is there any indication of moisture in the lense such as fogging? Or it could be a bulb on the way out or a loose wire or bulb. Hard to say sight unseen. Hope this helps.
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Hey, Thank you for Your opinion on the leaky maxima. Have not tryed the paper thing yet but good idea, My question now is, Is the power steering pump located in that area above the oil filter area? My next question is, If the bahrs sealant wont stop it what kind of costs am I looking at for parts and labor? I have a Bud that runs a junkyard and might get a break on the pump. As for the headlamp it is one of them new HID lights, ( ones that look blue) I have heard the ballasts need cleaned sometimes, and might need to reset the micro-processor, Ah all these modern features, there great until they tear up. Anyway thanks much for the help if You think of anything else I will definately be looking for Ya. Thanks Maxman7
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Hi ,I to own a 04 maxima only its the SL. edition. I know what you are talking about seems Mine has trouble in cold weather, I figured out if My windows are fogged which seems to happen worse than on most cars, that the CD. player skips and is slow to read CD,s. It is moisture on Your laser lens of the CD player just like on Your windows. Seems to help if You run the defrost on high for a few minutes, other than that I,m afraid it is one of those little quirks We will just have to deal with. Hope this helps You. MAXMAN7
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I have had consistent trouble finding wiper blades that fit my 06 Maxima's windshield profile. Every blade I've tried fails to make good and consistent contact across the entire contact area (particularly the left 26" blade). I tried Bosch Icons last time and they were better than most, but still the contact at the far right wasn't full.

    Any ideas appreciated!
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    They are gonna do that in cold temperatures, I dont Know where You live but the hotter the day the better, cause they will be more plyable, You might try heating them with a hairdryer or something while they are installed and turn them on, see if they will conform to the shape of Your windshield. I wish this was the only problem I had with My car. I have a leak, and cant seem to figure out where, I guess I will have no choice but to trust a mechanic to be honest with Me. Good luck!
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Hey its Me again, I have the leaky maxima with high mileage, I was unable to identify where the leak was coming from. To be honest I couldnt decide if it was oil or power steering fluid, I am a pretty good mechanic just not real familiar with the imports as much as with the american cars, I placed some paper under the car and caught some of the leak, It really looks like motor oil to me, but looking in the reservoir for steering fluid, it looks almost identical. Maybe Nissan uses weird kind of fluid there, I know they have a certain type of AT. fluid that looks unconventional. So I made a mark on My reservoir to see if I can detect a drop over the next couple of days. I have never noticed a drop on the oil dipstick, but that doesnt mean its not the oil. I have heard certified nissan people say the o-ring between the oil cooler and engine block are bad to leak. I have been hoping that was the deal cause the seal is ten bucks and does not look very hard to get to according to schematics I have of a 3.5 nissan engine. Well wish Me luck, I haul three Kids in this car and cant afford much of a hit. maxman7
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Posts: 269
    Best of luck...

    Also take a look at post 3953 for a link to complete service might help you
  • Hey, i have a question. i just found out i had an coil issue today... do you happen to know HOW this happened? how do COILS go bad?
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Hey thanks sanjaysdca, I already have that link downloaded. It is a very good trouble shooting guide,but My problem is trying to make a pinpoint decision on what is leaking, Ther are several things in that area that it could be and they are all wet from migration of the oil. I,m afraid the car is gonna have to be put on a rack to see good enuff to be sure, I,m thinking about having Big O lift it for Me to just take a better look. I sure am hoping its just a pesky o-ring on the oil cooler. But thanks for your concern, It seems nobody has time to stop and lend a hand now days. maxman7
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Man I,m no certified tech. but I have learned more often than not, most electrical components on cars unless saturated with water, dirt or oil, just go bad with no real warning or reason. As for these coils I,m not sure if bad plugs can be a factor or not, but if Your having coils changed I would advise a plug change on it too,(all six). Cause the plugs are down under them coils. You definately wont be hurting anything if Your plugs are old, Cause it may help performance and MPG. Have You recently washed or steamed Your engine? I,m sure moisture could destroy the coils. But My father owned a car that the computer went out on at only 40 miles old. dealer,s reply was Hey it happens sometimes, replaced the computer and drove it for 175,000 miles with no problems. Most cars I have seen with these new coil packs on them have at least one coil go bad by 100,000 miles, I guess nothing is perfect. maxman7
  • dx1hfdx1hf Posts: 4
    Just letting you all know that, in the final analysis, this $2865 repair quoted by the dealer was nowhere near justified. To the guys that suggested putting in two oxygen sensors in bank were correct. After replacing the two O2 sensors in that bank...all codes have been clear for a month and I have a brand new inspection sticker. As a side benefit the car is also running alot smoother and the gas mileage I get is a heck of alot better than what it was!! Thanks for your help...I saved about $2300 dollars here on this forum..and the dealer can go pound sand.
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Good for You, I guess We are gonna have to stick together as a car community, cause the companies think We have to buy their car,s They are gonna rape us. I sometimes wonder if it would,nt be easier to go back to riding horse,s. Remember this experiance, cause it seems this is the standard for Nissan. If enough people quit buying nissan and reported to them why, I bet they would change there damn tune then. As much money as they have made off American,s and let those crooked little dealers rape customer,s. They better screen out their sale,s people or it will catch them. Yeh, I get alittle bent outta shape bout that stuff! Cause there are people that work their butt off to buy these car,s, Me being one of them and then get done dishonest, Has Nissan forgot that they were just second best to Toyota,s durabillity and quality? My Dad has baught three new Toyota,s and He and His whole family get treated like royalty from the first one to the last. and never had a question if they would do the right thing or not. maxman7
  • jrockettjrockett Posts: 1
    I have a 91 maxima and my car starts when it wants to,the person i purchase the car from stated that it only happens when its cold out because the gas freezes.But lately it's been warm outside and my car will not start it tries but it will not catch and if I keep trying it cuts off completely like the battery died out,also when I'm driving the gear has slipped a couple of times.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    I have only 56k miles on my Max but i need new front rotors because the [non-permissible content removed] at my local brake shop cut them down to .872 from .925 (minimum is .866). Recently my brakes have been noisy and seem to take longer to stop (probably in my head).

    My research on rotors shows they are mostly made in China now [even from the big names like Wagner (125799) and NAPA Ultimate(880074)] so how do i decide which ones to get? any suggestions?
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Hello, maxman7 here, Yes Your correct they are produced oversea,s. But isnt everything? If You look closely on a Ford or Chevy, You will see the relays computers and ETC. are foreign made. To answer Your question, Wagner and Napa are good brake products. I use Wagner thermo-Quiet pads on My maxima, They are the best I have used yet.As for Your stopping performance, if You got any grease or brake fluid on them they can grab or not perform well,but chances are it is from having them turned, Never do that as Your stopping is more important than Your going,it is Your life depending on Your bakes to stop. And rotors are just not that high, You can get a good set of front for around $80.00,and a premium set for 200.00. Did You change the pads when You had the rotors turned? If the rotors were re-installed faulty You may well have damaged the pads.And if You install new rotors with bad pads You can damage the rotors, If You hav,nt drove much with the turned rotors Your probably ok. If You really want premium rotors I suggest willwood cross-drilled rotors. They are the ones have all the holes in them to release heat and debris.If you are on a budget like Myself wagner or Napa are fine and carry a pretty competative warranty. I promise You If You try Wagner Thermo-quiet,ceramic pads You will never use anything else. Absolutely no brake dust on Your wheels,no squealing with great heat transfer. all this adds up to great stopping power and many,many more miles on both rotorsand pads before another change. I an very poor but I will not skip on My brakes as I have three kids,Me and My wife depending on them.Trust Me You will even feel safer knowing what Ya got . Good luck,and dont forget to check your back brakes also. Maxman7
  • dx1hfdx1hf Posts: 4
    My 2001 Maxima SE is starting to get a bit spongy/bouncy on all four corners of the car. It has 98,000 miles on it. What are my alternatives for "as-good or better than original equipment" shocks/struts/springs/bushings etc/? Can you guys recommend a good solution? Recently I cheaped-out on a set of shocks and struts for a Camry and got burned. The dealer wanted $2000 to replace the shocks and struts. So I went to Midas and they sold me junk for $500...said it was equal to OEM... but it turns out the shock piston is smaller. Now I can't drink coffee in that car without getting soaked. Don't want to go through this with the Max. LOL Have patience...I have alot of liars in my neigborhood but I learn fast.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    REF: 3970
    I have 2003 Max SE with only 56k miles on it. Recently i thought i had a front suspension issue but it turned out to be brake hardware. I researched struts/strut mounts just in case i needed to replace them. You can also check out the web site (for true max geeks). I was going to get KYB GR2 struts for the front and the total parts cost was $300 (incl. shipping) from rockauto_dot_com You may be able to match that price locally as KYB is available at some retail stores...
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    REF: 3969
    thanks for the inputs. As luck would have it, my local CAR-X (brake shop) did install Wagner pads as part of their $80 brake deal. i do have Thermoquiet on the front and they are great; also i have the lower end Quickstop on the rear and they are also quiet. My main issue is the rotors and i am leaning toward the NAPA Ultra Premium as they appear to be a reboxed Raybestos Advanced Technology set. I intend to reuse the front pads (only 2k miles on them) after a bit of sanding...thx
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Posts: 269
    Midas is there to rape the uninformed...

    I recently changed my shocks on my Infiniti I30..essentially the same car with KYB GR2 and am very happy with it. These are considered the entry level performance shocks.

    One thing to remember if you go to an independent shop that does not do Maxima's
    The bushing on the rear suspension torsion beam are oil filled and if the car is lifted by the torsion beam the bushing will leak. If that happens then you have to change the whole beam. The part itself is $600 and there are no aftermarket alternative.

    So why am I telling you this?
    It happened in my car.
    The point to lift the car is very close to the bushing and it can happen very easily and it happened in my car. In most cars the bushings can be replaced independent of the torsion beam and they are generally not oil filled. Thats not the case in Maxima.
    Just be cognizant
    Good luck
  • I have a 05 Maxima that i have recently purchased. Um, it seems to be making this loud schreeching sound every time I start the car.! What could that be and how can i fix it..Thanks for all your help in advance.
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