Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • meister4Umeister4U Posts: 7
    Here are a series of questions to help detemine if it is the motor or the transmission:
    Does the engine light come on?
    Does this only happen when the motor is warm? No other time.
    Has the transmission and fluids been checked?
    Does the transmission eventually shift into 2nd or third?
    Are you watching the tachometer thru this whole process, Your tach should drop when she shifts gears assuming this is an automatic. 2200 down to 1500 etc.......
    When you step hard on the accelerator, does the transmission kick down into low, cause it should?
    Does the engine light go on and off by itself?
    When was the last time the car had a tune up?
    Do you use high test gas, because sometimes cheap gass may have water in it, and will cause the car to not run to full potential, and bad gas can also clog fuel injectors. Try using injector cleaner periodically to clean out any clogs.
    Lots of people ignore fuel filters, which should be changed periodically. Bad gas can be a major culprit. It can fool you by running ok sometimes and badly others.

    Ty to answer these questions before we go any further. Hopefully this will be of some help. Process of elimination.
  • jf651jf651 Posts: 1
    I have a Nissan Maxima 2001 and have 98,000 miles on it. I am planning to change the spark plugs but not sure if I should replace the coils. What's recommended? The guy in the part store said if the car is running ok then you don't have to change them.
  • guuguu Posts: 10
    coil should last at least twice that long, spark plugs too, i also have a 2001 but only about 50k miles and all i have changed so far is the spark plug wires (they normally wear out first on injected engines) i have also had to change 2 injectors
  • TtscrewTtscrew Posts: 3
    This model year is known for the coil/coils going bad but I would not replace them until you get a service engine soon light on stating the coil/coils are bad. Just make sure you use NGK spark plugs which is the orginial spark plug.
  • nvmaxnvmax Posts: 7
    Could be brake issue. Probably brake calipers.
  • nvmaxnvmax Posts: 7
    I have a 97 maxima with 146K miles. There was a thumping sound when braking, Mechanic said brakes are in BAD shape and I had to replace all four brake rotors and calipers. This is the first rotor replacement, same for front calipers too. Its a different story with rear calipers, this is is the third time I replacing them. Is this normal? I must confess I did'nt replace brake pads for a long long time, could this have resulted in rotor/caliper damage?

    Mechanic said I need to replace struts and axle but I will delay it another one year. Car runs absolutely fine.
  • I checked the fuse on my 2000 Maxima and it was burned out, so I replaced it. That one blew as well. I think it is a short somewhere, but could it be something else? Is there a common issue that I could check?
  • guuguu Posts: 10
    mine did it too till i changed the brake pads yesterday
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    Does anyone know what type of brakes (traditional vs ceramic or other types) are on a '07 Nissan Maxima as OEM? Is there a danger to going with something inferior to OEM (and by danger, I mean physical danger rather than the inability to attain peak performance levels)?

    I had my 07 Max in the shop a year or so ago for a front brake replacement and the shop replaced my fronts with ceramic as they said they were OEM and they were not allowed to go below OEM specs when doing replacements. Now my rears are ready for replacement and I'm looking to be a smarter consumer this time around.
  • maxima06maxima06 Posts: 1
    I recently brought my car into a Nissan Dealership for a high idle. They claimed I needed $2000 of work done. I checked with another dealership I had dealt with in the past in the area and they quoted me pricing that was 25% - 35% less on the same work. After discussing this pricing and my past experience with Nissan I was surprised to find out that Dealerships are not franchised and therefore unregulated. Each Dealership can charge what they want. So here is my question. With Cars being computerized my local mechanic keeps saying you need to bring it into the dealership. So it appears the Dealerships have a monopoly on most expensive repairs. However there is no one regulating them and no way to know what repairs should cost? I asked Nissan if they publish what they pay the Dealerships for repairs in warranty so I as the consumer can have an idea what is reasonable and customary. Of course that information is unavailable to the Consumer. What can we do here? I just paid almost $600 for a rear ABS sensor and have no idea if I was ripped off?
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    Isn't this true with almost every single retail product / service with the EXCEPTION of a new car purchase? I have no idea what it costs my local department store to buy a pair of Dockers from Levi, I have no idea what my local grocery store pays for a case of coke, and I have no idea what my local bar pays for their booze. They are free to charge whatever the market will support.

    Sound to me like you need to either consider a new local mechanic who's invested in the latest technology and training, or perhaps a new vehicle.
  • carktcarkt Posts: 1
    We bought this 2001 Maxima from a dealer in Feb 09. Around a month or so back whenever we drive the car after starting it kinda vibrates initially and runs fine after a mile or so.A week back I was just turning my car back from the parking lot when the TCS and SLip lights went on and the car started to vibrate a bit while driving as if a tyre is punctured but it was not.The lights went off next day but the car started vibrating badly, I was told that probably the transmission is not reaching 2 of the 6 cylinders, it was taken to Nissan dealership and they have a bill of $900 for it.
    Does anybody know what could be the problem?
    After readin all these discussions it seems to me we have been charged way too much and for all you know the car may still be vibrating after the repair as I read on other forums this is a known problem with Nissan Maximas.
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Posts: 269
    you probably have bad ignition coils...a very common prob in 5th gen max.
    Get it taken care if else you will end up having to change pre-cat too

    go to and you can get more info
  • laurislauris Posts: 7
    My '99 Maxima SE Air Bag indicator light has been flashing for months. Does this mean either the air bag system has failed, or just a malfunctioning bulb?

    In addition, my TCS and Slip lights came on a few weeks ago including the Service Engine indicator light. My understanding is if both lights are on they cancel out the TCS and Slip functions.

    There are 120,000 miles on the speedometer. Are these malfunctions typical for older Maximas?
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 2,954
    I have an 01 Maxima. When the airbag light went on, it was indeed a malfunctioning airbag and had to be repaired, so I would get that checked out ASAP. I also had TCS and Slip lights come on, and that meant a failed ABS sensor, and once again, those functions were not working until the sensor was replaced. So you should get both of those checked out. By the way, those two replacements are the only out of ordinary repairs I've had to make so far, so it's not like things are malfunctioning left and right.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • laurislauris Posts: 7
    Thanks for your reply, suydam. I'll check into having the airbag repaired. How much did this cost? Curious. Think I can replace the ABS sensor. Besides this, I've replaced 4 out of 6 ignition coils so far. The coils are a persistent problem w/ '99 Maximas. The coil issues started around 90K miles.
  • guuguu Posts: 10
    On My 91 Max the master window control on the driver door will not roll up the passenger windows anymore, can anyone confirm and help me locate a relay that would cause only this one symptom?
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 2,954
    I had to take it to the dealer, and I think is was around $500 (parts and labor). The passenger air bag module had to be replaced. As to the ABS sensor, both rear wheel sensors were the ones that had to be replaced. The front ones are fine. You can try cleaning off the brake dust first, though. Sometimes that works. I've been fortunate so far, no coil problems.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • allegoricallegoric Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Maxima and looking for a second opinion (Techs here I hope).
    I pulled the code from the CEL and it was 0102 meaning MAF, I installed a NEW one and it still wants to stall when turning or parking, any ideas what to look at next. I have no CEL yet, probably didn't drive far enough since replacing the MAF and clearing the code for a full drive cycle yet?
  • ageous18ageous18 Posts: 1
    Hi...I just bought a 1990 nissan maxima se. When I turn the headlights on the dashlights do not come on, tried the dimmer and it didnt help. I checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood. Anybody have any ideas, also the cigarette lighter doesnt work, the clock doesnt come on, speedo lights dont come on. I noticed my tag lights arent on either but havent checked the bulbs yet. Can someone help please?
  • I have a 1997 Nissan maxima and the engine turns off today on every light and stop sign. Anybody can tell what is going on? I would appreciate it very much. Thank you.
  • allegoricallegoric Posts: 2
    It's probably the power steering pressure switch on the firewall, passenger side. I replaced my IAC and MAF before discovering it, I only found ROCKAUTO on EBAY selling them for about $60, but I just discoed mine and it idles perfectly.I have a 95, this problem seems to have many people posting without a clue replacing everything but discovering this "switch". Let me know if I am right I have a big ego!
  • Hey all, new to this forum and needing help. This is my first Nissan, a 2000 Max w/ 127k. I've had the car two months, bought it for my wife for a beater around town and back and forth to work. It's had the problem since we bought it, we assumed the dealer could figure it out easily, Boy was I wrong.

    OK enough yapping and down to the problem. Sometimes the car will crank and crank but won't hit. Sometimes it starts on the first crank. We cannot make it repeat and nothing seems to trigger it. The dealer first told me it was the starter and for 538 dollars they would fix it. Well I got the starter and changed it myself, wasn't it. put the old one back and got my money back. It left my wife sitting and I had to leave work, so we took it straight to the dealer when I got it going. this time they told me it was the crank sensor and the flywheel was missing teeth. they wanted $1187 for the repair. not happening. got thecar home changed the rear CPS, no change, front CPS no change. While I was under the car I decided to look at the flywheel myself( by the access panel on the bottom of the tranny they said they used), well it hasn't been off.also cleaned the cam sensor

    Does anyone have any ideas or ran into the same problem? Oh and would the key have any effect on the starting, I know it is chipped, but the one we have is pretty beat up and rattles when shaken, I'm thinking the the chip may be loose and relaying the proper info, just a guess

    sorry for the long post, just trying to give as much info as possible. Thanks RM
  • tinamaritinamari Posts: 2
    Hi All-

    After reading this forum I am seeing a common denominator with all that I have been experiencing with my 2000 Nissan Maxima (140k). I've had problems with the sensors, the weird noises, the "check engine light" coming on and off as well as other malfunctioning issues. And just last week my car turned off after driving in the rain. Currently, the car is in a shop and I am waiting to hear some kind of report, but the one thing that I was told could be the issue, is that I am having electrical issues. I am frustrated and ready to toss this car (although I still have a car note) and I am nervous to find out how much this is going to cost me!

    Anyone have any ideas on how much this may cost or even what could be the problem, seeing as though these cars have a history with sensor and electrical problems?
  • carrmatcarrmat Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone. My car has been making a rattling noise for a couple months and I kept putting it off. My oil change place told me it was the timing chain tensioner. Last weekend I went to get in it and it would start, kept cranking no problem just wouldn't fire. Had it towed to Oil change place, the guy there who is a ASE mechanic said it looked like the timing chain broke and there was potentially some engine damage.

    Had it towed to dealer for further evaluation. They said the timing chain was fine but that it skipped time and the pistons blew into the valves. Long story short, I need a new motor.

    1. Is this possible for the valves to do this?
    2. Why in the sam hell, if this is possible, wouldn't some code be thrown that would tell me this is a potentially serious problem that needs to be checked before the engine completely blows? Or should it have thrown a code?
    3. Any recommendations on getting a used motor?
    4. Is this engine replacement something a good mechanic could handle or should this be done at the outrageously expensive dealer labor fees (ie: special tools, special Nissan training required)?

    Thanks. -Matt
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,368
    I think a good independent shop can handle this job, no problem.

    They probably know of sources for used engines. Here's one:


    Your question about a code for this problem is interesting. Some cars did in fact have warning systems for engine timing disorders (Porsche 928) but with a timing chain, it's a pretty rare occurrence.

    In hindsight, chains do give warnings usually before they break or jump time by making noise.

    I'd take the car to an independent shop and first off, have them verify the huge drop in compression that would indicate bent valves.

    Also, I'd remove the head and inspect the engine internally, if a drop in compression is verified. It may not be necessary to replace the entire engine. A piston can "kiss" a valve and bend it slightly without serious damage to itself sometimes--requiring only a rebuilt cylinder head.

    Visiting Host

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • dribbydribby Posts: 1
  • I have a 2000 GLE Nissan Maxima and in the far left back (passenger side) my car is smoking. I took it to the dealer because my engine light was on and the smoking under the hood and they fixed #6 coil (mis-firing) and tune-up. The burning smell is though my transmission has no fluid in it. I remember this because my step-father was a back yard mechanic and I remember the smell. The dealer has told me to bring it back on Monday, August 24th and a test will be run to see what it could be. Just last week I have paid over $800 for repairs and I am afraid they are just trying to rip me off. I am a female and don't have a clue about this. This is why I take my car to the dealer who is the expert. I need some advice on what to do? My hood is open now in my garage because when I drove it back home today it was smoking really bad. I am so afraid that I may be making matters worse by driving it. Can you provide some guidance?
  • I have a 2000 maxima with 146,000 mile on it. About one month ago, it suddenly got dead when I tried to turn right at low speed (~20mph). It can run ~15 minutes after I restarted it, but then got dead again. Service Engine light is on and the error code is P0171. Tried to fix it in two mechanics, but both of them can not figure out the problem. Do anyone have the same problem? Thanks for any advice/help.
  • Check Engine Light Code P0171

    System Too Lean - Bank 1


    How does a P0171 code trigger the check engine light? This code will trigge=
    r the check engine light as follows:

    The adaptive fuel strategy in the vehicle's computer constantly monitors th=
    e fuel delivery system to make sure the engine is running at an optimum air=
    to fuel ratio, which is 14.7:1. The computer adjusts injector pulse width =
    to regulate the amount of fuel going into the engine. The oxygen sensors re=
    lay information to the Powertrain Control Module (computer), informing it o=
    f the oxygen content in the exhaust. This information is translated by the =
    computer, and used to determine if more or less fuel is needed. The compute=
    r will then adjust fuel flow (and possibly other related engine operating c=
    haracteristics), to keep the correct air fuel mixture. This loop continues =
    as long as the engine is running. Please refer to our article Oxygen Sensor=
    Code Diagnosis for more info on this system. A P0171 check engine light co=
    de is set when the computer has reached a rich calibration limit and can no=
    t add enough fuel to maintain the correct mixture.=20
    Possible Causes:=20
    Refer to our Oxygen Sensor Code Diagnosis article for a list of all possibl=
    e causes. The following is an overview of P0171 check engine light code pos=
    sible causes.

    Fuel System:

    Leaking or faulty fuel pressure regulator
    Plugged or dirty fuel filter or lines
    Fuel pump weak or defective check valve
    Injectors leaking or faulty
    Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
    Leaking EVAP system components
    Faulty FRP (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor)

    Air Intake System

    Vacuum leaks
    Contaminated, damaged or faulty Mass Air Flow sensor
    PCV valve leak or stuck open
    Air induction turbulance caused by wrong filter
    Oil dipstick not seated
    Air leaks after the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
    Oil coated aftermarket air filter

    Exhaust System

    Any exhaust leak before or near the oxygen sensors

    EGR System

    Vacuum line disconnected from EGR System Module (ESM)
    EGR valve, tube or gasket leak
    EGR vacuum regulator valve leaking

    Secondary Air Injection System

    Mechanically stuck secondary air injection valve

    Diagnostic Help:=20

    A very thorough discussion of how to approach and repair a P0171 check engi=
    ne light code can be found here. If you need further assistance let us know=
    . Please be sure to stop back in and visit some of our other very useful si=
    te features to lear more about your car's emissions system!

    Suzanne V. Thompson
Sign In or Register to comment.