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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • hello, new to the forum. i have a 95 maxima with 120,000 miles. i was driving to work and all of a suddden my car just jumped to the right and my steering wheel was not straight anymore. it will track down the road straight when letting go of the wheel. turn the wheel left and right and the steering wheel be straight again. drive some more and it will jump to the right again.feels like power steering problem.
  • Hi there
    well - sounds like the crazy problem I have with my 95. Get a load of this. Recent news (been chasing this starting problem for 2 years, I can change the started in 45 minutes - done 3): the problem, according to 2 dealers who knew of it, is a corrosion problem apparently between the transmission and the block. Solution is to take off the transmission, clean the surfaces, apply new dielectric grease, and reinstall. Sounds so crazy that I could not believe it but 2 dealers confirmed. The other 2 I called never heard of it. I have ground strapping in my hand that I will try this weekend, but have low confidence it will work. Recommend you call around and see if anyone can confirm this... Hope this helps. I too replaced crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, knock sensor... Starters eventually died and replaced too... Good luck and please let me know what happens.
  • Hello out there. Been chasing a starting problem for 2 years on my 95 Maxima with 185k miles and some rust: car cranks OK (not the starter, not the battery, not the teeth on the flywheel), kicks back and then continues to crank. Eventually will start but painful. Killed 3 starters along the way. Check engine light is on. CHanged the knock sensor, the crank angle sensors, the cam angle sensor. Nothing. I went to sell the car and someone told me the solution (which I cannot believe but 2 dealers confirmed - 2 others said never heard of this): problem is corrosion between (!?!?!) the transmission and the block, causing grounding problems and wants to try to make the engine turn backwards during starting. Ground straps apparently do not work (?!?!?!). Solution is $900 to remove the transmission (?!??!), clean, and reinstall. I cannot believe this - can anyone out there confirm or let me know of an easier way to fix this?
  • easypareasypar ColoradoPosts: 192
    I have an '03 with 75,000 miles, never any trouble with it. I'm planning on keeping a couple of more years and was wondering about the serpentine belt. My last few "working" cars the belts lasted about 150K miles, or I sold them with the original still in place. But now that I don't work I don't put on the miles so I'm wondering what anyone thinks about replacing it.

    It's difficult to see it but what I can see looks OK, also in my experience these don't just "go" like the older accessory belts. Since I occassionally take 300-400 mile trips I'd hate to have to replace it on the side of the road. Any thoughts on this, or tell me how long yours have lasted.

    Also, when I had my oil changed last week (Wal-Mart, they now do an automatic battery "check") the little paper they handed me said the battery was "low". I put in an Interstate 75 month battery almost 3 years ago because I was going to be spending the rest of the winter in CO and felt it was a good preventive measure.

    Thanks for any input.

  • guuguu Posts: 10
    Isn't the factory recommended interval 50k miles? Did you check the grooved side for cracks and or missing pieces? I Don't mind replacing them on the side of the road unless its the weather is bad.

    Did you check the fluid level of the battery? Do you keep it filled? If the cells get dry the dry part is dead until it get reconditioned.
  • I have a 96 Maxima with about 175,000 miles on it. The problem i have is the will lock up when i brake too quickly. Like a stop light, or trying to avoid transmission an accident. Sometimes at a light it will drop back into gear, but if i'm at a stop sign, or middle of the road i have to give a little gas to engage. And when i say "locks up" my meaning is it acts like it is in neutral when i'm in drive. I have not done anything to it yet. Would like to know where to start looking for the problem.
  • Hi...I was thinking about buying a 2002 Maxima SE with 167,000 miles...Do maximas of this year typically run past the 200,000 mile mark? and are there any known problems to look for with this model year?
  • My car is a 2001 <Maxima and have a similar problem; I have about 97,000 miles on my car. It does it quite randomly - typically only when I've been driving it the highway at sah 70mph or so, and then exit highway and go into far lower speeds.

    I'll keep watching this list but if you find out anything, please do let me know.

    I'd hate to replace the transmission if that's not the problem.
  • 15mike15mike Posts: 3
    This is an automatic. It shifts normally the rest of the gears. Th efaster I accelerate, the harder it shifts. Any Suggestions?
  • easypareasypar ColoradoPosts: 192
    Pegausus17 I have an 03 as well and I'm getting a noise that's not struts or anything else steering or suspension. Do you recall what exactly on the brake hardware was causing this? The guys that did the brakes on my wife's car also does steering suspension so I may just go have him put it on the lift.

    Thanks in advance.

  • REF: 4044
    On my 03 Max, it was the brake hardware (aka pad retaining clips) that was replaced. I also got new rotors (NAPA Ultra) so had that done at the same time. Noise is gone but it could have been a problem with any of those parts (pad, rotor, clip). Let me know what yours turns out to be...good luck
  • easypareasypar ColoradoPosts: 192

    It was kind of odd, I had three potential buyers look at my car and two of them made offers but both of them commented about the "thunking and clunking" from the front end. One specifically mentioneda major street nearby that has many of the "tar filled joint repairs". Oddly enough both of them made offers but one made his low enough to more than pay for struts because he was sure it was struts.

    I waited until after 10:00 PM and drove around, no radio or other distractions and even shut off the engine and coasted a bit. I'm a bit hard of hearing and the only thing that I noticed out of the ordinary (I've owned this unit since it was 4 months old) sounded more "sheet metal" than solid like a strut problem.

    Someone on here or another site had mentioned that the rubber bumpers for the hood had needed to be backed out (made taller) so I tried that, and even put a cabinet door "button" on each of them. The noise that I had heard went away. I told the buyer I would have it checked out though before I countered his offer.

    I went to a very reputable local brake steering and suspension (not a national chain, a local family with a long reputation in our (50,000 population) town. Told him everything and he drove it for 10-15 minutes and put it on the lift. He said he heard no noise, but then he had no experience with the former condition. He said the only thing on the struts was that one of the boots was a bit torn but he thought the mileage was a bit on the low side for that make and model. He also pointed out (as I had) that the stiffer suspension and lower profile tires on this would feel much different to someone more used to a more spongy sedan.

    Thanks for your help on this. I'll see if this guy really wants it
  • aarchaarch Posts: 1
    Belive it or not I took my Max in today to get a starter installed,grone noise when you strt car mostly in cold,anyway these are the same code my mechanic came up with,po115 and 0325 knock sensor and the coolant sensor,the light came on after I added fuel injector cleaner...hmmm,codes were erased and we will wait and see ,mech said no big issue as longas 24 mg is happening,this little car has guts.I also am intrested to see if this also could be the mass flow sensor or the injector cleaner burns hotter than normal thus alarming the cpu.
  • bozo8bozo8 Posts: 1
    my 1996 maxima speedometer works on and off
  • Left and right brake lights fail. Rear window brake light works fine.

    Both lights replaced. Fuse checked and good.

    Haynes Repair manual schematic shows all three lights converge at the "stop and tail lamp unit". I would test there if knew where it was located and what it looked like.
  • farifari Posts: 2
    Dear YTIM,
    Were you able to find out the cause of the codes? I have the same problem. It would be appreciated if you could share the solution with me. You can contact me at
  • farifari Posts: 2
    Dear YTIM,
    Were you able to find out the cause of the codes (message #3588)? I have the same problem. It would be appreciated if you could share the solution with me. You can contact me at
  • I have a 2006 Maxima SL. On a recent highway drive, an 18-wheeler kicked up a
    tire tread that hit the bottom of the front bumper and went under the car making a lot of noise. It cracked the front bumper and tore up the plastic shield under the
    engine as it went by. Any one know what this plastic piece under the engine is called and where I might find one at a reasonable price? I don't mind doing the work myself, just don't know what to ask for.
  • gtwgtw Posts: 46
    I call it a gravel guard. it keeps water and rocks off the belts. look at
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    for about $35 you can get it form a dealer and its called skid plate
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    various names----I call them "splash shields" and that's really what they are for.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • hello
    i've a problem with my 1997 maxima. the problem is that the car SOMETIMES turns off while driving or when shifting the transmission to "D", knowing that the transmission is automatic. the rpm goes up and down until the engine turns off. as i just mentioned the problem happens SOMETIMES and sometimes the car works properly without any problems regardless of the speed.
    i took the car to some workshops and they told me to change the following parts: fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs and air filter. i changed all these parts but the problem still exists. the car was checked by computer and the result was "system normal". last thing to mention is that check engine light is turned off.
    i'm waiting for your response
  • My car, a Maxima 2001 with nearly 100,000 miles does a similar thing. While it doesn't STOP, as in turns off or doesn't move, it does something peculiar. No one knows why or what it is.

    The car will be driving fine, then I'll come to a red light and stop, or sometimes, just need to drive slower say from 65-70 down to 25-30, and when I step on the gas to accerlerate the car will move, but not shift up through the various gears! The rpms rev up and down, the engine makes a funny sound, the car moves, slowly and I end up mostly coasting until I can find a safe place to stop. After about 30 minutes, the car will usually be fine. I drive it quite often, with no trouble whatsoever. To work, around to friends, around town - it doesn't seem to like highway driving. It's been doing it on and off for a year.

    My mechanic has tested it and cannot find anything wrong. Diagnostic testing, driving it, and other stuff. I don't what to spend a fortune on a new transmission if that's not the problem. I too, would love an expert response! Any thoughts, clues, hapless statements appreciated!
  • thanks lauren,
    i appreciate your comment, but it seems that we both have invisible problems which might be easy when it is discovered.
    may god help us to find a solution for our cars problems
  • Are the spark plugs original? If so change them.

    Has the transmission fluid been changed? If not, flush with new synthetic fluid.

    How old are the air and fuel filters? Change the air if older than 25k miles and fuel if older than 50k miles.

    If these do not work I suspect there is a problem with one of the sensors that tell the computer to tell the transmission to shift gears.
  • biancarbiancar Mid-AtlanticPosts: 918
    Is anyone posting here in the Northern Virginia area? I've got a 2000 Maxima GLE that someone backed into while it was parked. Trunk lid is smashed, bumper severely scratched, and tail light broken.

    I bought it from Mike Pallone Nissan, but he is out of the Nissan business now. Usually take it to Sheehy for maintenance (they took over Pallone's Nissan business) but they don't do body work.

    I want to get an estimate on repairs before deciding if I should fix it or sell it. Any suggestions?
  • caugncaugn Posts: 30
    1997 maxima gle with 201k miles. shifting is smooth however the engine will rev to 5-6k rpms before shifting. This occurs between all gears. it also revs up before shiting down from OD when passing on the highway. I have checked the fluid and the level and consistency are good. I thought perhaps it was the modulator valve but I'm not sure there is one from what I've found online so far. Possibly the control selonoid? Any help here please?
  • I also own a 97 maxima 197000 it was shifting also kinda shifting with high rpm.. just changed the trans filter and fluid the 6th Sat. seems to be shifting better and having better torque, this was the first time changing the ATF filter and fluid.. tiny shaving on the magnets. :)
  • tinamaritinamari Posts: 2
    2000 Nissan Maxima....Electrical Issues Resolution?!!!??

    Hi Everyone- Well since my last posting on July 29, 2009 my car has cut off about 3 or more times. But I did find out that my oxygen sensor needs to be replaced and that I have a short in my window wipers, which explains why my battery was being drained since I've used it. I feel better since I've found what may be causing my car grief and I am grateful that it will be paid off this year. Also, I learned that it is very very important to keep up with regular oil changes especially on older cars.... :blush:
  • caugncaugn Posts: 30
    edited March 2010
    Am I assuming corectly that the transmission filter is inside the pan?
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