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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    Do you mean, it stalls unless you tap the gas pedal? It could probably be many things. What fixed it for me was the cleaning of the throttle body. I used as a reference, their site has a lot of usefull information for DIY types. Let us know how it goes.
  • terrynterryn Posts: 2
    I start the car up and it immediately dies. Did this a couple of times and it did the same thing. On about the third try I decided to push on the throttle after I started it and it ran up to about 1500 rpm and then returned to normal idle. No problems with it after it started running. This has happened about the last 2 or 3 times I've started the car. I'll check out the site you recommended. Thanks for the info!
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    You wrote

    have following queries for 05 Maxima SL model. I am new to world of vehicles. So few of my questions might be very basic.

    1) When I start my car, engine RPM goes to 2500. I heard from somebody that I shall wait till the RPM of engine reduces to 1000 before I drive the car. Is it true? Is it applicable for old cars only?

    * Drive it immediately, but don't drive "hard" until the powertrain has warmed up for best practice to follow. Warming up a car wastes fuel and driving the car warms it up faster. Old cars needed warming to be able to run right.

    2) When I start the car and switch on Steering or Heated Seats, does it affect car Battery? Due to such usage will it reduce the battery life?

    *No, enjoy. The car generates the power these accessories need...unless you making a series of very short cold weather trips the battery will not be affected at all.

    3) Servicing... what happens during 1st, 2nd servicing normally? What shall I check or ask the mechanic to check?

    *look at your owners manual

    4) Can I use Synthetic oil in my 05 Maxima? Is it useful?

    * synthetic oil is better, if you want to use a better oil and be able to extend oil change intervals. depends if you are leasing....

    5) Can I set average (miles/galon) using the display on the dashboard?

    * can't help you there see owner manual

  • ferdburtferdburt Posts: 1
    It's time to replace the original tires on my 2003 GLE. The Bridgestone Turanzas are noisy, so I would like to go to a different, maybe quieter tire. No hard driving, Chicago climate. Any suggestions?
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    I just bought tires for my 00 Max. I did extensive research, reading reviews, pricing things out, etc etc. I'm anal when it comes to this stuff and I'll admit it. For what it's worth, I went with Goodyear Assurance "Comfort-tred" tires. They also have a triple tred. The triple is a little more all weather aggressive and the comfort is a little more quiet. If you value quiet I recommend the comforts. Since you're in Chicago, you may want the triple treds if you don't have dedicated snow tires. I live in MN and bought a set of Dunlop Wintersport M3 tires on steel wheels from Tirerack and I use them in winter and comforts rest of year. Before these I never would have went Goodyear, but I can honestly say these things are WAY more quieter than OEM stockers and the Dunlop SPA2's I had for summer's before. And they're H rated so good at 100mph. Many many options for tires, Yokohama Avids are good too, but for my .02, I'd buy these comforts again anyday. Also, buy them from Discount Tire if you have them in Chi, otherwise go Tirerack and have them shipped to a garage and pay to have them mounted. Trust me, that's your best bet on cost all the way around no matter what tire you choose.

  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    I have a 97 maxima. The engine light will come on once in a while. There are always two codes: one for multiple cylinder misfire and another one for the knock sensor. When this happens the car will usually hesitate and sometimes stall. When I first bought the car new, the dealer couldn't find anything. Anyway, the problem got worst that in reverse the car will want to stall. Actually, now, when the car is cold (higher rpm), if I put it in reverse, it will stall right away. I found out that there was a service bulletin for the codes and the bucking/hesitation. The fix is either one or more ignition coils or a wire in the harness. Well, the other day it came to me to wiggle the wiring harness under the hood coming from inside the vehicle to the engine. I thought that the rocking of the engine (backing up when cold and taking off at a stop or a light) could be affecting a loose wire somewhere. As the engine was running, every time I'd wiggle the wiring harness, the car would stall. I figure I had found the problem from all these years.

    I decided to strip the wiring harness and find the one wire that was at fault. This one thick gray wire, when wiggled or pulled would cause the engine to stall. I opened the wire to see if I could find something broken, kinked or loose. Inside this wire were two smaller wires wrapped around a shield of tin stripped wires. I had to undo this shield of wires in order to see if there was anything broken in there. Well, I didn't find anything wrong and now the car won't start even when wiggling the wires (I smell fuel from the exhaust though). Someone told me that by undoing the protective shield of stripped wires that could send wrong signals to the ECU. Anyone has any ideas or has ever run into this problem?


  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    Hi! Does anyone have a service manual from the manufacturer for a 97 maxima?
    I just need to know what the wires for the Crankshaft sensor (POS - the one by the flywheel) are, where they go to and their respective values. I have this Haynes manual but it's not giving me exactly what I see in my car. On the manual it shows three wires, but on the sensor connector there are four wires. Also, the book tells me the white wire should have 5 volts when the key is on, and the black wire should be grounded ... that's not what I'm getting. On the contrary, there is this extra wire, a gray wire, which is grounded at all times. Thanks!
  • momoftwomomoftwo Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Maxima and have had trouble starting my car. I took it to the dealer and they said I needed a new starter and purge volume control valve (check engine light was on). They replaced the starter but the car still has trouble starting. It cranks ok but takes several tries to start. Also, my husband says it died once while stopped at a stop light and he has felt hesitation when giving it gas on occasion. One mechanic told me I needed a new fuel pump & filter and purge volume control valve. Another mechanic told me my car would not be starting if the fuel pump was bad and that the purge volume control valve has nothing to do with the trouble starting my car. Such different opinions! Any suggestions?
  • kgb2005kgb2005 Posts: 2
    It happened with my 96 Maxima at 30K and 50K. 80K. That were about the only "out of routine" cost service for Maxima. The mechanic who also owns same year and model of Maxima told me that the O2 sensor is getting more and more "Sensative" nowdays.

    Other than the O2 sensors repair, I did not see a "money drain" in my 96 Maxima for the past 115K miles. Neither does the above mechanic who has 200K on his Maxima. It gave me 26 MPG on highway and about 20 MPG city drive.

    I'm happy if Maxima only cause me $ in o@ sensor for "major"repairs. I look forward to getting another 85K miles on my 96 Maxima before I give up on it.
  • kgb2005kgb2005 Posts: 2
    May need to check O2 sensors
  • dhampdhamp Posts: 8
    I have a '96 I've been considering doing the same with. Does it have a traditional formed gasket? Or do you have to use gasket compound to form the seal?
  • corey584corey584 Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Maxima (162000 miles on it). Have the same problem. It is always a result of starting up the car and then turning off the engine within a minute or two (for example, moving the car into the garage from the driveway). If this is similar to your experience, just drive the car a little longer before turning it off. Also, make sure you are using good (eg 89 or higher) octane gas. Stay away from the regular blend.
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    The water pump is indeed located at the front of the engine, on the passenger side of the vehicle. The fact that the car was cutting off probably indicates additional resistance from some seized accessory, i.e. alternator, steering pump or water pump. Water pump is inside the engine and is driven by a timing chain - I would guess that for a home mechanic it would be quite a job. But sounds like it's not necessarily the water pump. When you say it does not start, what exactly do you mean? Does the engine not turn over? Or does it keep cranking? Also, search the newsgroups for related information, I usually find all my answers there. Let us know how it goes. Good luck!
  • rafarafa Posts: 35
    Just took delivery of a 2005 nissan maxima se great car we traded our 2001 Nissan maxima se loaded for this new one and there is a no comperasion great machine. Wanted to know if this model is any good thanks
  • I cannot believe it. I just bought the car for less than 2 months. I was told by the police same thing happened for another maxima 2 blocks away a few weeks ago. I called around the dealers for the price. It seems to be very expensive from the dealers and will be at least close to $4,000 for all the 4 wheels I have to replace. I have $1,000 deductable for the insurance. I have to wait for the insurance company to send someone to check.

    Is it adviceable to shop around instead of going to the dealers if I can have the insurance company write the estimation check? Or I just let the dealer fix it and let the insurance company to deal with them for the repair cost?

    Now I have to worry about the wheels after I replace it. Can someone give some advice how to improve the situation? Will the wheel lock help? I have to upgrade the alarm. What I have right now is the standard one. Which kind of alarm should I install? The motion sensor? the shock sensor?

    Many thanks,
  • ashantiashanti Posts: 6
    I had to repost sorry for any confusion, let me summarize my symptoms and then get to the problem.
    * Over Heating- I fill with coolant at least once a week, most of the coolant leaks out onto the ground very slowly
    * Replaced the radiator, not more leaking but still gets hot, goes up into H and then comes back down and goes back up on its own
    * Contiune to add coolant to the overflow. Still goes through a great deal of coolant, a gallon a week
    * Loud but low pitched squealing from the left side of the engine. When it makes this noise the car would act like it was going to stall in the middle of me driving it. I would have to give it alot of gas to keep going.
    * Then smoke begin to come out of the hood of the car
    *Then it died in the middle of heavy traffic
    * It would even start, no clicking, no sound from the starter or anything. I know it is doing something because the dash lights come on and the radio does too.

    What is the Problem?
    * Water Pump
    * A Belt
    * The Timing Chain?
    I am thinking it has something to do with the water pump radiator becase it kept leaking and then drinking large amounts of coolant and still over heating.
    Did the engine finally just seize up from not getting any coolant? Would this explain the smoke?

    Any advice you could give would be appreciated.Thanks! :sick:
  • aikido2aikido2 Posts: 5
    It seems as though I am having a similar problem. I have a 99 Nissan Maxima SE.
    Really nice car and I really have not had any major problems with it. However, I have noticed that for the past month or so that when I accelerate, I loose power. Well, today on my way home from work I was just riding alone enjoying my music, when all of sudden I turned to get on the expressway and BAM! I lost all power, so of course I freaked. The car just stopped dead. no warning whatsoever. Fortunately for me there was no one directly behind me or I know I would have been slammed into from the back. Anyway, when the car came to a stop, a few of my dash lights came on, so I turned the ignition off for a few seconds and then try to crank it back up, but the engine did not turn over even though all of my lights in the car were on. After about a minute or two, I turned the ignition again and it cranked right up and I did not not have anymore problems. At this point, I have no idea what the heck happened, but obviously something is wrong. Once I got home, I cranked it again and no problem. I am really afraid to drive it because I don't want to get anywhere and get stranded or cause an accident with it just stopping like that. Of course we all hate the dealership, but can anyone advise me of what my problem maybe. This is my 3rd Maxima, but I'm beginning to think that maybe Nissan's are not as great as they used to be. My first Maxima caught on fire because the fuel injectors were bad. Nissan had a call back on that one. My
    2nd Maxima I had to replace the transmission on it twice, so this is my 3rd Maxima and now I am having doubts. I guess you can say I am a Nissan Maxima lover, but I don't know anymore. Anyway, I think I will try to drive it to Auto Zone and pray they can diagnose it for me. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
  • john69john69 Posts: 1
    i have a 87 nissan maxima 3.0 auto. with 70,000 orig miles in it, but car has front end damage,i ave a chance to get a 91 maxima with higher miles and a bad trans, can i do a power train swap??
  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    aikido2, I would begin by checking the battery connections to see if anything is loose. Also, if possible check the alternator connections as well. Check for loose ground wires also.

  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    For those interested, I fixed my car bucking, hesitation and stalling. I had a code for multiple cylinder misfire along with a knock sensor code. The problem was coming from a short caused in the ECM wiring harness located behind the glove box against the condenser casing. The harness has a sharp bent against the edge of the condenser case and that will cause some of the wires to strip. In my case, the wires for the crankshaft sensor and the air temperature sensor were shorted out at this location. I fixed the wires and I don't experience any of the previous problems, nor do my check engine light come on anymore. In case you experience this same problem, you can tell by wiggling the ECM wiring harness located in the engine compartment by the right strut tower. Do this when the engine is running. If the engine stalls you know that it is coming from the wiring harness. There is actually a bulletin for this problem. However Nissan tells you that the short may happen on the harness located in the engine compartment by the right strut tower. Well, in my case the short was coming from inside the car although you can wiggle the harness from inside the engine compartment and simulate the short in wiring if it is there.
  • aikido2aikido2 Posts: 5
    I'll check those two items and let you know what happens.
    Thanks again
  • nycer25nycer25 Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 2000 Maxima GLE. I noticed a few weeks ago that my acceleration is noticably weaker, and I'm able to press the pedal all the way to the metal without nearly the usual surge in speed. What is the likely cause of this? I haven't had any major problems up until now. I also haven't replaced the battery yet in 5 years. Is this a possibility? Thanks for any replies!
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    I think your problem is a bad water pump, but a pressure test can help a mechanic find the source of the leak, if it isn't obvious. Good luck.
  • sobhanvsobhanv Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    Would like to know if anyone had a similar experience and the advise.Recently my Maxima 2002 had a front bearing failure .this i think is very unusual as i havent heard a similar thing from anyone till now.The car has put up 90000 miles.In the past i had to get the rotor /brake job done for 6 times due to warping and i have an inkling that this might have contibute do the damage to the bearings due to the abnormal vibrations

    Any comments ,thanks in advance

  • sharihsharih Posts: 1
    My dh has a 2000 Nissan Max that he adores and runs rampant with... We live in the dusty country and it now has 98 k plus miles... It has run like a little top and we have not really maintained it well over the years and this is our first problem... Just replaced the ordinary air filter(dirty) and put in reg Shell gas lately... It has been brought up on reg Exxon Mobil gas though...

    Problem: ;)

    2 wks later it is dying and stalling and we did the code thing today and got codes p0731 and p0171. We do have an extended warranty...

    Can someone advise further ? and is any of this stuff possibly replaceable by us?
  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    I had a similar problem. The knock sensor was faulty (it will retard the timing and it will feel like there is no power on acceleration). However, among other things you could have a clogged fuel filter, a clogged air filter, or a bad fuel pump.
    If knock sensor is faulty it won't bring the ‘check engine light’ on. However it will store a code if bad. You can have the people at AutoZone check if any codes are stored. Oh, also, make sure you are using good grade fuel.
  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    Code 0731: A/T first gear signal fault. I'm not sure if this code relates with your present problem, altough there is a possibility.

    Code P0171: fuel injection system lean (right bank)

    There could be a problem with the Mass air flow sensor. Since the MAFS is by the air filter and you just replaced the filter, make sure the wiring and the connector for the MAFS is connected and ok. And, hopefully you didn't have to remove the MAFS, if you did make sure the clamps are tight.

    You could have a vacuum leak somewhere.... listen for hissing noises in the engine compartment.

    You could have an exhaust leak. Listen for exhaust leaks before or by the 02 sensor.

    You could have a bad injector seal.

    You could have incorrect fuel pressure (fuel pump)
  • kzakkzak Posts: 13
    I wish I would'va known that a week ago...I kept posting messages and no one had responses, and after 6 tries at Tires Plus, I took it to the dealer...he said the same thing, a random misfire and replaced all 6 ignition coils for a cost of $630 :cry: ...oh well, at least it stopped shaking/vibrating...
  • ashantiashanti Posts: 6
    Ok I am going to buy a water pump and have hubby take a crack at it. Any advice? We have the Hayes manual and that helps a lot. I wonder will he need any special tools?

    Anyone have water pump replacement experience?

    I acutally see a light at the end of the tunnel. :)
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