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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • magdocjrmagdocjr Posts: 3
    Nissan did the carbon flush and the 60k major service at the same time they replaced the O2 sensors. The SES came back on and has been on since. Yes, I always use premium gas even though the prices are going through the roof. The engine will not rev past ~4200 rpm either; it acts like it wants to but will not. If you have any more ideas let me know please.
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    Per the hesitation, did you have the plugs checked? Even though they're supposed to be 100k, I've heard many enthusiasts say they need to change every 60-80k for optimal performance. Also, what about the MAF sensor? I've heard that's a very common cause for the 5th gen maxis to perform sub-par. Try the other message board,, and look around their 5th gen forums. You need input from the experts over there on the approach to take. That's just my .02 of course. Not that there aren't experts surfing this board, there's just a whole other level of detail going on over there due to modification freaks.
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Also, make sure if you have a clogged up, dirty air filter; it can cause hesitations also.
  • danmandandanmandan Posts: 1
    I have an 89 maxima w/ only 295k. Just started to have idle problems in the morning when I first start the car. Runs fine until you have to stop, then car has a hard time staying running. Does this until the car warms up, then no problem. Idle control valve? Cylinder Temp. sensor? can anyone help? Thanks.
  • Where can I get a Factory Service Manual for my 1996 Maxima? What would be the price range? Is there any place to get this besides Nissan?
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Do you mean an Owner's Manual? You're in luck, because here's a link to the manual... it has manuals from 1996 to 2005.
  • Thanks, but I mean FACTORY SERVICE manual.
  • debbie731debbie731 Posts: 10
    You give some solid advise and I will never buy a car again w/o at least a test drive of continual driving for 30 minutes. I would have re-considered the car if I found someone found the seats uncomfortable due to hardness -but there is really no review that speaks of seat comfort that I have found. I checked the edmunds regular review site and everyone pretty much loved the car. I test drove the car three separate times and had no problem; each test drive was for 10-15 minutes. Interestingly I also drive the new TL since I was ending a lease on my old one which I love(d). I drove that car for 10 minutes (same drive as the Maxima by the way since the dealers are down the street from each other) and found the seat incredibly uncomfortable. I went back and test drove the TL again, with the same response; which is why I was looking at other cars. Having never had a problem with any seat in any car and we own a Nissan Sentra-which is my daughter's but I drive also -I never really thought that a seat could be so incompatible that a person could not be able to drive the car. I am by the way not alone in this as I have now found a number of people who have had this problem only with the Maxima seats. We are all different shapes and sizes so it doesn't make sense to me. Perhaps our "lot" of car seats was made differently?
  • debbie731debbie731 Posts: 10
    Do you think that I am a complete idiot or what? I find your response to be demeaning and offensive. I think that roar1's response was more productive - that people should test drive a car at least 30 minutes prior to purchase and to heck with the salesperson and the 15 minute test drive. I drove this car three times with no problems, researched it on the regular edmunds site and others for consumer ratings and read every review about it - so I did my homework. If it took me 1 minute to know I couldn't get comfortable I wouldn't have bought the car. The problem is that it took over 30 minutes to realize this - when I drove a long distance with it after I had already purchased it. And to answer your hypothetical question, yes if I had read a review or reviews that people were finding the seat hard and uncomfortable after driving the car for a distance I would have insisted on a longer test drive. Given that I have driven many different cars and models with and without power seats and never had a problem it did not occur to me that a car with an 8 way power driver seat with multiple positions and a power passenger seat as well would be incompatable in any position for sitting in this car for over 30 minutes.
  • dude if you dont even know where it is on the car you cant put it on by your self
  • just a bit of advice a knock sensor will not turn on your check engine light
  • do you know what wd/40 is
  • shmameshmame Posts: 1
    i have a '91 maxima and we cannot get the trunk to work. neither the keypad, the trunk release button, or the key will work.
  • nvmaxnvmax Posts: 7
    I have 97 Maxima 108K miles and recently the SES light came up, turned out to be knock sensor. The repair guy estimated $300, I passed.
  • nvmaxnvmax Posts: 7
    My 97 Maxima's fan switch developed a problem. The fan does'nt start when knob is on positions 1,2 and 3. It starts only of '4', which is like getting gale force wind in the cabin. I am thinking of repairing it myself as I figure it should be as simple as either soldering the connections in the knob OR replacing it.

    My only concern how do I remove the knob?. Do I just pop out the plastic case that houses it and other knobs by jimmying it with a scewdriver ? Did anyone did it before. I'll appreciate a reply.
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    Running with the bad knock sensor will negatively affect your gas mileage and engine performance (read horsepower). The part cost about $160, and the job is labor intensive, if you do it by the book, so $300 does not sound too bad. However, there's a shortcut that's documented elsewhere on the web. If you are mechanically inclined and have small hands (important for this job), you should be able to do it.
  • guadvasguadvas Posts: 2
    Hey guys, the actual adjustment is" Idle stop screw" adjustment. The adjusting screw is located above the big spring on the left side of the throttle body. It has a locknut on it and is adjusted using a star wrench.
  • nvmaxnvmax Posts: 7
    Thanks my friend. This is what I was looking for.
  • gchu5gchu5 Posts: 5
    Hi all,

    I recently bought new 2005 Nissan Maxima. Experimenting with the 92 vs. 89 octane gasoline. What I noticed was that if I were to use Shell 89 octane gasoline, the fuel mileage ranges from 21 to 30 mpg, which is expected depending upon whether I am on city or highway drive.

    To my biggest surprise is the Shell 92 V-power gasoline. I could never get the high-way mileage up to 23.7 mpg, from Seattle to Vancouver, travelling at 65 miles per hour cruise speed.

    Any theory as to why this is?
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    I do not know why BUT i would just stick with the mid-grade 89 octane gasoline since you're getting better mileage off of it. The manual recommends 91 or higher, but it also said that you can use 87 octane. Personally, I would just use V-Power (because of its high additives for fuel cleaning) occasionally for tuneup purposes.
  • gchu5gchu5 Posts: 5
    Thanks Highroller.

    Shell's V-Power 92 octane gasoline claims to have 5 times more detergents than the federal regulation specifies. It also claims to boost performance. However, I looked up my Nissan auto manual. The manual says to avoid gasolines with high detergent. Not sure who is right.
  • gchu5gchu5 Posts: 5
    Another thing that I noticed was that when using 92 octane gasoline, revving engine becomes a lot easier. In fact, I had to consciously not to overstep in order not to revv engine in high 3 ~ 4 thousand RPM range in lower gears (1st and 2nd gear).

    Is this normal? This is the first time that I own a performance car (a new 2005 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SE). I am not sure if what I observe is expected.

    I also noticed that when using 89 or less octane gasoline, it is not as easy to revv the engine in lower gears, as say, using 92 octane gasoline.
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    I don't remember anything about avoiding gasolines with high detergent. I do know that some new models like your car would suggest not using fuel injectors, etc. I would only say that if your manual says not to use fuel with high amounts of additvies, then you should follow your manual, it's always the best advice. Now personally for me, I would never use lower than a 89 octane. If you keep using 89 and notice pinging or knock noises, switch to premium for a couple of applications, though i believe it'll be rare. Even though the prices for gas is off the roof, premium fuel is always the best for our cars because higher octane burns more SLOWLY thats why high compression cars like ourselves need these premium fuels. Now it doesn't hurt to go from premium back down to 89, you're just not running as good and powerful as you could be. Using the recommended premium fuel, it causes slower burn allowing the gas to be more resistant to pressure, meaning it can be compressed more before it explodes on its own without the spark. If you degrade from 92 to 89, it CAN to a point cause your ECU to notice the degraded octane and retard timing, thus less power output and sluggish pedal feet. Remember to use only Top Tier Gas: you can find these gas at Shell, QuickTrip, Chevron,etc.
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    My '02 Max stalled out on the way home a few days ago. Turns out that they have to replace the mass air flow sensor - to the tune of $800. Ouch. Naturally I'm just out of warranty - 3 yrs, 2 months and 41,000 miles. Pretty hefty bill for a pretty young car. I'm not too happy about it.

    But anyway, the symptoms were that it would start up and then almost immediately stall out, in case anyone else encounters it.
  • charliekcharliek Posts: 3
    There is a Technical Service Bulletin put out by Nissan for the 2004 Maxima, 04-085, that says how they are supposed to fix the shimmy. It involves match mounting the tires and then match mounting them to the hubs. I finally had it with them and was going to go to a Lemon Law. The car is now in the shop. Nissan engineers came out and think the only way to solve the problem is to replace the whole front end steering with a 2005 steering rack which they are doing with factory techs today. You have to get on these people or they will blow you off. The service rep. tried to tell me it was a high performance car and that all of them have a shimmy.
  • ggaudreauggaudreau Posts: 1

    Just had a complete overhaul done on my rear breaks for my Maxima 2004 after less than 27000 miles, break pads, discs, 485$ worth!

    Has anyone ever had this issue?


    :( :( :(
  • hound97hound97 Posts: 22
    Anyone know where the jack points would be on a 2001 maxima if I juse a hydraulic floor jack rather than the factory jack? My hydraulic jack has basically a small deep plate so it won't match up with the recommended jack points.
  • I too have experienced the mysterious bumping/vibration pulse sensation at stoplights in my 99 Maxima SE at 57,000 miles. In my experience the problem occurs when the car is in reverse or drive and is worst when the air conditioner is running. I have had it checked several professional technicians and none will give me a straight answer as to the exact cause. Two months ago, I had a service engine light come on after experiencing the problem for several weeks. The code indicated a bad rear O2 sensor which I replaced myself. Thankfully, I have not experienced the vibration problem after replacing the O2 sensor. Before that, it was driving me crazy! Does anyone know for sure if a bad O2 sensor could cause these vibration pulses? It appears from my surfing that this problem is not unusual for Maximas of this vintage. It seems like someone out there should know by now exactly what this problem is by now! Please share your wisdom!
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