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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Hi, does anyone know where i can find the cabin filter for my 96 nissan maxima? Thanks for the help.
  • Hi Mattymc311
    I have exactly the same problem as yours. a 96 maxima and the fan works only on high. I was wondering if your problem is solved and would appreciate any help that you can provide
    Thanks very much
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    I have an '02 Max and I'm going to be replacing the battery myself this weekend. Does anyone know if there's going to be any issues with the security system locking me out if I just disconnect the old battery and stick in a new one?
  • maxima_95maxima_95 Posts: 1

    I bought a 1995 Nissan Maxima, and I see the intermittent problem with Windows - sometimes they come down by about couple of inches on their own. Can this be fixed?

  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    I had the same problem, i had to replace 2 O2 sensors and a knock sensor which cost me about $900. After getting all my sensors replaced, my car was check engine light free but until just 1 hr when after turning on the car again, the engine light lit on. Took it back to the dealership that same day and they told me that i needed a Idle Air Control valve costing about $180. They scan the car through a computer and they told me something about my IAC valve was bad so in order to get rid of the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, i needed to replace it. They said that they could reset the check engine light, but they said that since my IAC valve was bad, resetting the light wouldnt help because it would just be a matter of time before the light comes on again (the IAC valve is for efficient air pressure going to the engine, etc. i didnt really follow the tech.) i had to replace it. So far, the engine light is not on. They also told me that there's about 140 ways for the engine light to come on and changing spark plugs is one of them. Hope this help some and good luck.
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Hi, hopefully someone here nice can help me with this problem on my 96 Maxima. There's light in the engine coolant temperature gauge and part of the tachometer but there's no light shown in my speedometer, odometer, or the fuel gauge at all... I was driving at home tonight and turned on my headlights just to see that i can't READ how fast im going (i was driving in a fun filled cop stakeout/neighborhood area!!) Can someone tell me how can i change the bulb in these things or how difficult the task is? I appreciate the help alot.
  • kgraffkgraff Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Maxima SE. The SES light keeps coming on. I brought it to my non-dealer mechanic and he diagnosed a "lean left bank" citing no particular cylinder cylinder. The plugs needed changing anyway, so he did that and two of them looked much newer than the other four. He keeps saying it sounds like there's a vacuum leak, but when he removed the upper intake plenum, everything checked out. After 5 or 6 resets of the light he wants to keep searching. He's been gracious and hasn't charged anything, but it's getting frustrating. Does anyone have any idea what the actual problem is? I'd appreciate the help. Thank you.
  • segedusegedu Posts: 1
    Hi, while driving this morning the radio starts to loose power and shuts off, I have noticed the Battery and Brake warning light come on last night, and was still on this morning checked the brake fluid level and that was fine. On parking the car I rev the engine, it sounds fine but I notice that there seems to be loss of electrical power in the whole car because the windows wind up really slow. I shut the engine off, and try to re-start the car, but it just goes flat with a rattling sound, all the lights come on in the dash so I don't think its a weak battery... now am going to go back and see if it will start again after cooling for a while if not I have to get the car towed.... Any advice would be appreciated on what the possible problems could be. I am also going to check the fuses (any particular fuse to check?)

  • mastjmastj Posts: 14

    FYI.... the cars that I have had in the past, mostly GM and even my '05 Maxima start when they are in Neutral. My understanding is that this is a safety feature.... i.e. if your car stalls (engine dies) on a freeway, you can simply put it in Neutral and restart the car (hopefully) and then put it back in drive and continue on.

    If you could only start the car in Park, then you would have to come to a complete stop in the middle of the freeway, put it in Park, restart the car, and then place back in Drive. And to answer a question in the back of your mind - no, you can't put a car in Park while driving down the highway at 70.... it will do serious damage to the transmission.

    I find this very interesting that this question was asked.... I feel somewhat old because of it - since I remember the junk we had for cars in the 70's and 80's that frequently stalled for no reason whatsoever (And you rarely thought much about it). Now, if your car stalls, it is usually once in a blue moon and reason for concern.

    Hope this helps the youngsters out there!!!

  • dahuberdahuber Posts: 53
    If it's the same as a 2001 Maxima, look behind the glove box under the dash.
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone new how to get the rotors off both front and back, (any tips?) and if anyone knows what special tools I may need. Do I need a metric socket allen wrench set for the calipers? Any other tips, i was going to get the factory pads and hardware kits and turn my rotors, (not bad looking).
  • Remove the calipers (14mm socket), remove the torque members (17mm or 19mm - I don't remember). The rotors are probably frozen to the hubs, there are two holes in each rotor. Find two matching bolts (the holes in the rear rotors are smaller) and screw them in one turn each at a time until the rotor pops off. For the rear brake job you will also need a caliper tool to rotate the piston back into the caliper (the front ones are pushed in by a c-clamp).

    Also, you may want to consider cracking open the bleeder screws, while you are pushing the pistons back in, to let out the dirty brake fluid, rather than pushing it up the system. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT LET AIR IN.

    Search the web - there are detailed instuctions to be found.

    Also, I'm personally against cutting the rotors, unless they are warped. Even then, you will need new ones before you know it.

    Getting a new factory pads and hardware kit is a very good idea, just don't get the 'value' pads, get the more expensive ones ($55-$65).
  • univmdunivmd Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Maxima with 141,000 miles. Problem: Unstable idle rpm in the mornings.

    Every morning at the first stoplight, the idle speed of my car will jump between 600 and 1500, back and forth. I have to put the car into "Park" and turn the AC off, in order to calm the car down before the green light. After that I don't have problems for the rest of the day. In the past, the check engine light would come on if I didn't calm the car down immediately by putting it into "Park."

    What is going on? Does the car need to be warmed up first? The dealer was not able to repeat or find any problems, since this only happens most of the time in the mornings. I guess I will just live with it since this is an old car? --James
  • dianardianar Posts: 3
    Hey! I have about 84K miles on my Max and I am noticing that sometimes the engine will start with a sort of slow or sluggish sound, while other times it sounds like the engine is reving a bit for a few seconds when started [and no, my foot isn't on the gas]. The starter is new [eight months old]. Trying to explain the unpredictable sound of the engine when it starts is tricky at best.

    Does anyone have any general ideas as to the cause? Thx!
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    I have a similar problem also. And, i also bought my new starter. I bought the new starter like about 3 weeks ago and just this week it's sounding funny when starting the car. Everytime i turn the key to crank the engine, a low quick screeching sound follows for about 3 seconds. Hopefully, someone here can help tell us the cause?
  • dianardianar Posts: 3
    I read on another Maxima board that the sound you're hearing may be the starter not disengaging fast enough from the flywheel. The only thing that can be done is to remove the starter and grease the inner shaft. It's mostly a nuisance though.

    Good luck! :)
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Thanks, so far, the noise hasn't come back when starting the car. Don't know why but i'm happy =)
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Does anyone in here know if i should gap spark plugs or not? Some experts recommend not gapping because it may damage the center electrode or the porcelain insulator. Thanks in advance.
  • gtwgtw Posts: 46
    I see where Murano's are being recalled for bad alternators. I wonder if this is the same alternator that was in my wifes 2004 maxima that just crapped out and was replaced?
  • I have an '03 Maxima GLE....bought it in '02. I have had a chronic shimmy problem from Day 1. It is aweful now.

    The vibrations start when I accelerate to over 100 kmph/60mp. The steering wheel vibrates and the shimmy can be felt throughout the car. The vibrations become again impressive as I decelerate back down to 90 kmph or brakes applied (i.e. it is not a brake related issue).

    I was told that this was a wheel balancing issue. I have had the wheels balanced many times throughout the history of the car...the first one was within Month 1 of purchase and many times since. Interestingly enough this issue goes away when I switch to winter tires. Leads me to believe this is a tire issue.

    I have the full history of the 7 or 8 times this vehicle's been wheel balanced ...i.e. early indications to any 'expert' that this was not a balancing issue. If it is a tire related issue ...I am now being told that I likely have no recourse because tires are not covered under warranty...and any "participation" by Nissan would be purely "goodwill"....especially now since the car has 60k KM /37miles What a load...since the problem was documented to be from Month 1. Why didn't the experts pick up on this problem at that time and recommend a tire switch? Why should I have had to push the issue? Oh well....

    Let's see where this goes... I am p'd off enough to pursue this to court if I have to ...but I'll wait to see of Nissan Canada comes back with.
  • Did you ever get an answer to your question. I'm having a similar problem. I got copies made of my 99 Maxima and the car opens and the engine cranks but as soon as you let go, the engine stops. Works fine with the old key - the original one.
  • kennyg8kennyg8 Posts: 225
    I also have an 03 GLE but have not experienced shimmy problems. The OEM tires that come with the car are not good, and if you are still using the OEM tires after 36k miles, perhaps you should change them to see if the problem goes away.
  • hi kennyG - I know another person who has a '03 SE and has steering wheel vibrations...always/most prominent at higher speeds Interesting.....

    OEM tires must be the issue because the shimmying stops when I switch to my winter tires. I have Bridgestone tires that came with the car....the treads etc are great and no reason to switch them except for this problem. Nissan has agreed to have the car tested on special tire diagnostic equipment and will "participate" in tire replacement if the diagnosis says that this is the issue. I have no idea what 'participate' means. We'll see.
  • dbacksdbacks Posts: 1

    I would greatly appreciate if anyone can point the possible reasons for my Remote Key, Automatic Door Locks and Interior Lighting suddenly stopped working...Is it something electrical or battery related ???

    Make/Model: Nissan/Maxima GLE (2000)

  • Guess What?! I have a 2005 SL with shimmy in the steering wheel and vibration in the seats. The car is 3 months old and on it's 3rd set of tires, compliments of Nissan. The 3rd set are Michelins and still a problem. They have adjusted the steering wheel and made adjustments to the tires, etc. They have suggested installing a heavier steering wheel complete with a truck horn (just kidding about the horn) and maybe replacing the rear suspension. I understand that the dealership is dealing with 2 other customers with similar complains. The Nissan troubleshooter checked my car out and suggested the heavier steering wheel and maybe replacing suspension. I have to jump through some more hoops, but it sounds like a possible class action lawsuit is possible if everyone bands together. I am told that is how recalls get started. If all else fails, hopefully the "Lemon Law" will have some impact.
  • bchaputbchaput Posts: 1
    Had same issue with my 99 Maxima SE. After a few visits to my local (and trust worthy mechanic - that is, NOT the dealership), they determined that the light was being triggered by the "knock" sensor. In my case, simply switching to a higher grade gas (and, yes, more expensive) the problem we resolved.
  • My wife's 2000 SE seems to have the same problem. Originally we had a CEL come on, and Nissan replaced 1st cat conv and O2 sensors. Now no CEL, but hesitation remains. Also seems to be burning oil (no smoke, but needs a quart every 300 or so miles.

    Have you found a solution yet to your problem???
  • PS...her milage (the car's, not my wife's) has dropped from ~ 28/gal down to 20/gal also.....
  • y2zay2za Posts: 7
    I seem to have a pretty good amount of wheel spin even with the Traction Control System on - has anyone else noticed this? I guess i should turn it off and see if it makes a difference. BTW has anyone noticed that the description/definition of the TCS is the same as the Vehichle Stability Control system in the owners manual?
  • There is a small black lever in trunk, right where the trunk clicks to close. You have to flip that switch so that it will work.
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