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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • rln1rln1 Posts: 11
    Thanks, Aggiedog and Highroller, for the advice. It's gonna take me a while to get motivated to dig into the instrument panel. As four switches don't illuminate, it appears the problem is likely a circuit board. (The main instrument panel lights up fine.)
  • hey there .. a bank1 code means you O2 sensor needs to be replaced. I had that done too already. I hope this helps you out.
  • Sounds like ignition coils. They're easy to do it yourself and you can order them from just about any place. Dealership will over charge you by $30 per coil, 6 coils. Save a couple hundred dollars doing it yourself. Don't wait too long to fix it or you'll end up like me having to fix more than just the ignition coils. Replace the spark plugs too. good luck
  • Help Please! The car would intermitently start or not, I replaced cap,rotor & plugs figuring this would take care of it. After the replacement, I noticed if the ignition key was on I could here a what sounded like a vacume pump running this would go on for about 5 min. then stop. When the pump sound stopped the car would start. The sound came from the lower engine compartment on the drivers side. Does anyone have thoughts on this one. On occasion the car does start without problem. Thanks
  • My '95 did the same thing a couple of times. The first time it happened, I was convinced that the car would end up at the side of the road in flames! However it lasted less than a minute and did not recur for several weeks.

    I kept the car for about 3 years after this first occurred. It happened so infrequently that I never bothered to get it checked out (there were plenty of other more pressing concerns with that car!).

    Good luck.
  • For those of you having intermittent problems starting your car, please check the connectors on your car battery. If wiggling or moving the connectors on the battery allows the car to start, try either cleaning the cable connectors and contacts, or do what I did and completely replace the cable connectors to something a bit more sturdy as the stock positive connectors on my 89 Maxima cracked slightly after 130k miles to the point where I didn't even see it until I took it off completely. I had the same symptoms before, where the car wouldn't start after being left idle for a while in the summer, my guess is that the heat caused the metal to expand on the connectors not allow a current to flow.
  • Help Please! To all Maxima Experts, my 1987 Maxima Wagon have 189,000 miles. The car was working fine till last winter. The transmission would not shift and stay on 1st gear for 5 mins during summer or 10 mins in winter during driving. The car can only drive as fast as 30 miles per hour. The engine gets warm up after while, the transmission would shift to 2nd gear. After about another 5 mins, it shifts to 3rd and 4th gear fine. When the car is running fine, the transmission have no signs of slipping, grinding or any kind of problem. The car has been good to me. original A/C, alternator, engine. Paint work still looks great, no sign of peeling. I would be thankful for any kinds of advice or suggestion. JC
  • Got my car back from the dealership - they change the temperature sensor and also complained about the drive belt.
    Amazing how the parts total is almost $100 but the labor is $300!!!
    The check engine light still remains on!! What did they really fix?
  • Yesterday my Maxima almost stalled on the highway. Now takes 5 times to start. Went to Auto Zone and the pulled the code for the Camshaft position sensor. I call Nissan North America and there was a recall on that part. Good News! free!!

    I also asked about the transmission. 60,000 mile drivetrain warranty. Looks like the transmission will be fixed also.
  • Hey Guys,

    After seven long months, I finally bought everything my 95 Maxima GLE needed so that I could replace that Bose cd player. It stopped playing my cds and even the tape deck stopped working! I replaced it with an after market Pioneer flip face and even though its not a Bose, its way better than listening to the corny radio stations. Anyways, Im still able to keep my priceless Bose speakers, which is great, but my question for you guys is about my back speakers. They havent been playing since my Bose cd player went out seven months ago. I know I didnt burst them because I dont hear that scratchy sound in them. I dont hear anything when I have just the back speakers playing. Im guessing its a wring problem in the back trunk, and I have moved a lot of stuff in and out of my trunk. Im wondering If I snacted anything by accident. Anyways, with this new cd player, Im really missing my back speakers :( . Can someone please help me with this problem? TIA.
  • Your speakers may have individual amps that may be blown.
  • The dashboard meters (fuel, odometer, speedometer, temp) on my 2000
    Nissan Maxima 6 cyl work intermittently. The analog gages are either frozen or work fine.
    Everyday in the morning all meters work fine.
    Sometimes odometer is showing different character, which is not understandable, and sometimes it is completely blank.

    When I am driving and the meter is working fine all of a sudden it shows me weird characters and the gauges are frozen. These characters from display will clear after a long time like overnight and then all the meters work perfectly.

    When I turned off the car and the display is okay then it takes 2-3 sec to turn off the display. When I start the car next time it will show me either the correct display or nothing on the display.

    The odometer display will show the weird characters or clear depending upon the time of fault. It will show the weird characters if the fault came during driving. It will show the clean screen if the fault came during starting.
    Engine service light is on and code shows the speed sensor failure.

    I recently installed the new battery. This problem was started before I replaced the battery and it is continuing. The mileage is 65,200. Service Engine light is on and code shows the speed sensor failure. All other things work fine.
    Your help is much appreciated.
  • Months ago I've taken my max to a dealership for a diagnostic (check engine light on & car starting to buck and run rough). After diagnostic, I was told my ignition coils were going bad and that all 6 would have to be replace. They said it will cost about $600+ and I say forget it for now. 9 months later, car starts to run rough again and check engine light appears. Now it won't stay on unless in drive and giving a little gas. The RPM drops from 500 RPM ( when in park) to O RMP and then turns off. AC helps to keep the idling up which keeps the car running a bit longer before turning off. Well I decide I had to replace the ignition coils, all 6. I replace all 6 with new spark plugs. Car still stalls after running. New diagnostic testing says it's now the O2 (Oxygen) Sensor going bad. Okay, O2 sensor is replaced, car still stalls after running for a little. The smell of gas is constant under the hood, air mass filter is checked and fine. You can see black smoke from exhaust and the car seems to be burning or dumping gas twice as much. I have to put in about $20 every 2-3 days because it's seems like it's burning rich.
    It's starting to look like it might be the car's CPU now but not 100% sure. Can any one help ? This is costing me an arm and a leg.
  • i have older '93 that was doing something similar and it was the fuel injectors. Just talked to a guy at national injector supplier and he said Nissan keeps them in business. Easy way to check (so i have heard) is take a short piece (2') of garden hose and put it by each injector. you should be able to hear as swoosh sound if they are working right.... good luck
  • I am experiencing similar symptoms with my 84 datsun/nissan maxima... one day it just wouldnt seem to start.. i could tell the battery had power, but it wasnt even trying to start. By the time help arived i had tried again and it started right up with no hesitation. This continued to be a problem here and there until it just wouldnt respond. My grandfather sprayed some ether based cleaner into the ignition and after a few minutes it started rigth up without hesitation and the problem was gone for about 3 months. Recently it resurfaced and i currently have the screws removed so that i can put my hand behind the ignition switch and jiggle the wireing harness thats connected. It seems that over time the harness has become loose making a bad connection... when i hit the spot it starts right up.

    Its becoming increasingly difficult as it seems the whole ignition mechanism is failing. I dont know how to fix it without replacing the mechanism, but ya might check this peice if you have this problem and have not already ruled it out.
  • My module was removed before I purchased my 2002 maxima gle. I am trying to locate a used one that will clear the light.I recently tried a 2003 module,but the light would not go out.My nissan mechanic scanned the computer and found no codes.His response was "must not be the correct module" although the parts guy says both cars( vin #s) take the same part #.All junk yards say all 2002-2003 MAXIMAS w/ ft.&side air bags take the same module. I bought this car wrecked and fixed it myself. The air bags were not deployed. PLEASE HELP!! ">
  • Hi there, I am looking into purchasing a 2001 Maxima SE 5spd. with 39K and I am just curious as to how your is holding up and if you suggest this year maxima
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Posts: 398
    I have a 2001 GLE that is approaching 105K miles. Very good car so far. I've had only two failures - an oxygen sensor that was replaced under warranty at 25K miles, and an alternator that was replaced recently just before 100K miles. All work and maintenance is being performed by the dealer.

    Of course, I've had wear-and-tear items replaced over the years, such as tires (will purchase a third set soon), brakes, and also some belts were replaced due to cracking about a year ago. Actually, I had some warping issues with the brakes the first 50K miles. The brakes were machined a few times, and eventually at 50K miles all disks and pads were replaced by the dealer with the original parts. Since then – more than 50K miles - I haven't had any brake problems and the pads still show plenty of use left.

    All scheduled maintenance was done at the dealer following the 'regular' schedule. This for the most part was regular oil changes (I use Mobil 1 only) and tire rotations, and every 30K miles they'd change the transmission fluid, the coolant, the air filter, the cabin air micro filter and possibly a few other things - this is from memory and I may be missing an item or two. Actually, they changed the brake fluid at some point.

    So I am very happy with the car and it still drives like when it was new.

    Now here's the question: At the 105K mile service the manual calls for spark plug replacement. I've been hearing people complaining about coil failures, and since these two are related would it make sense to replace those too? Kind of like the advice to replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt (for cars that use timing belts). The reasoning being that the two items are related and the labor is about the same whether you do one or both items. Or I can leave the coils alone, but then again I'd probably have to replace them at some point anyway. Or do you think they may last another 100K miles and 5 years? Or shall I not replace the coils and not even replace the spark plugs as the car is still running very smooth?

    Any advice will be appreciated!
  • I stumbled across your problem which seems to be the same problem I am experiencing. I have an '03 Maxima GLE. At approx. 15k miles, I took my car in for a routine tire roation (not at the dealership) and they described the same right side brake/caliper problem. They said the pad was completely worn. Of course they asked if I had been driving around with the emergency brake up......
    I took the car to the dealer and they confirmed the problem. I received little willingness to have them replaced under warranty by the dealership. After a day of calling everyone I could get a Nissan the dealer agreed to replace the rear caliper and pads. They offered not explanation as to how this happened and did not list the repair as a warranty issue. They noted "customer satisfaction" as the reason for the repair. Now here I am at 46k miles and just replaced the rear pads again. There is obviously a problem but no one seems to know the answer......
  • My 97 Maxima is dying. It started about 3 years ago when I was stationed in Italy. I started losing power and my check engine light would flash everytime I accelerated or went up a hill. I took it to a number of mechanics in the area and they could not fix the problem. I then moved to Guam where they told me to replace my engine. I did and my car ran but would not restart unless it was cool. It ran smooth with a little hesitation when accelerating and the check engine light remained on. The mechanics told me that was fine. I then moved back to the US where they are now telling me my ECM is bad. They ran 7 diagnostics on it and came up with 7 different problems. I ran the ECM diagnostics and got code 55 which means no fault(Chiltons). Do I need to replace my ECM or is there a bigger problem that everyone is missing.
  • My advice - replace spark plugs with the Nissan OEM platinum plugs from NGK (you can get these from the dealer) and buy a set of coils else where ( the dealer will want 2X the cost of what you can buy them for online). It's up to you whether you pay for the parts now (I just did this, it cost approx $80 for the plugs, $400 for coils, 1 hour labor) because we had 2 bad coils at 130K miles ('95 Maxima GLE). Even though you have a 2001, the engine is pretty similar to mine. If you can bare to part with the extra $400, it is worth it, because when the coils go bad, it starts in a subtle way, then just gets worse and worse, with performance slowly slipping away. With the new plugs and coils, my Max runs like it did when we first got it. I would recomend to do both items, you'll be good for 60K for the plugs, and perhaps 100K - 150K with the coils !
  • I have a 96 maxima with about 187K on it. While driving home my check engine light came on. The local auto parts store read the code and it came back with DTC PO325 Knock Sensor 1 and P0725 Engine Speed Sensor.. I had the check light reset and the light came back on after driving about 15 miles. The car runs fine without any problems.. Any help??
  • The bad knock sensor does not activate the CEL, so perhaps it's the speed sensor? knock sensors are a weak point on our cars, I need to get mine changed on my '95, and am trying to find someone to do it with the least amount of labor possible. you can find a new sensor for $99 on ebay, or pay $160 at the dealer.
  • I've had my car for about 2 years now and a few months ago I noticed the "Check Engine Light Soon" notification appeared on my car. I read the owner's manual and was advised to first try and make sure the gas cap was on tight. After making sure it was tight, after a couple of trips, the light will come on but will repeatedly come on and I will have to tighten the gas cap...but recently, I noticed that I changed the gas I was using in my car to the premium and the light came off for a few weeks but just a couple of days later the light came back on. I'm using the same premium gas. What do you think it could be at this point? Should I replace my gas cap? Almost 80,000 miles. No tune-up in a while...can someone PLEASE help me?
  • My 2000 Maxima with 110k miles and automatic transmission has recently, on three separate occasions, slipped out of gear while traveling down the highway. The only common link seems to be that the problem occurred each time after about an hour of sustained high-speed (70-75mph) interstate travel. Upon exiting the interstate and driving at a slower speed, the transmission would shift into neutral, even though the selector was still in drive. Tried down-shifting through all gears and switching off the overdrive, but nothing helped. The only way I could resolve the problem was to coast to a stop, switch off the car for a minute or two, then restart. The transmission would then shift into drive and continue with no further problem. I had the transmission flushed and refilled after the first occurrance, but the issue has recurred twice since. Luckily, I have been in a position to coast safely to a stop, out of harm's way. I may not be so lucky next time. Any ideas?
  • Could be the gas cap, try replacing it first to make sure that you eliminated that possibility off your list. There's a couple hundreds of reasons for why the engine light would come on, it is best to take the car in to a certified auto shop for a diagnostic test to see what the problem is.
  • klinklin Posts: 54
    I just want to express my thanks to all those with helpful tips on my nagging 2000 Maxima SES (Check Engine Light) error code 420 problem

    After wasting a few hundreds $ on my local mechanic, I decided to try my local dealer instead. The decision is a right move and the problem was fixed with a ECU re-program. The entire repair is free and covered under a 7-year warranty. My car even got a free car wash :>

    So if you have a SES check engine light problem, try the dealer first since it may be covered with warranty.
  • beanctrbeanctr Posts: 99
    Your situation sounds exactly like the issue I was having and I am sorry to say it didn't have a happy monetary ending. I too have a 02 Maxima with 78,000 miles on it. About three weeks ago the Service Engine Soon Light came on; however, the car was running fine. The light went off once during this time frame and then came back on (car continued to run fine). Finally I took it into the dealership yesterday and they diagnosed it as the 02 sensor (for emissions). The car has 4 of them and I had to have 2 of them replaced. Total bill was $625 (ouch!). So I am willing to bet that your situation involves the 02 sensor. The dealer didn't seem to think that I would harm the vehicle if I waited to replace the sensor; however, since I will need to smog the vehicle soon, I went ahead and got them replaced. This is the only repair I have had done to the vehicle other than normal routine maintenance. It has been very reliable. Good luck with your vehicle.
  • WOW... seems to be an all year Nissan Maxima thing. Have about 70k miles on my 2001 and the same thing happend. Solid light dealer told me to check gas cap, but I always give the gas cap 3 clicks as the salesman so nicely told me years ago as he said if the gas cap is not tight I'd have to bring it in and pay $40 to clear the cold. The dealer said my problem shouldn't be bad as the light was solid, a BLINKING light is an emmision problem. Well it came on and off and when on I took it to the dealer and it was a simple upgrade on the computer console and the problem went away... NOW I have the blinking airbag light :surprise: and and took that to the dealer and the airbag has (blah blah blah) bad and has to be replaced, thank heavens I have the extended warrenty that someone told me not to buy cause the issue costs $1500.
  • Hey everyone, first time poster on this site, seems to be a very valuable resource!

    I've got a 2001 SE, and I double-cranked the car (turned the key while the car was still starting) and I heard a bit of a pop.

    After saying a couple of prayers, I started again, and it ran beautifully.

    However, the brake and battery light were on for about 5 mins, and turned off themselves.

    So pretty regularly when I start the car, I have the same problem. All of my electrical components work slowly (wipers, windows, etc). However, a few mins into driving, the brake and battery light turn off and everything works perfectly.

    I took it to the dealer to get checked out, and it passed all of their "electrical tests"

    What do I do? Wait until the alternator dies completely? that *is* what those two lights represent, correct?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated :) thanks guys and gals :cry:
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