Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • I own a 2001 Maxima (bought last year). I've replaced 3 sensors, one in the front and both rear sensors. I was told by my service writer that Nissan has a technical service bulletin "TSB" vs. a recall on the sensors. I think the difference is that you don't really hear about the bulletins like you do the recalls. Apparently the sensors are a problem with that year and some other years as well. Thank God for warranties!!!! The total replacement cost for both rear sensors was $850 - $150 each for the sensors, $200 each for the labor and $150 to re-program the computer.

    As far as your question about the grade of gas being a factor, I only have to say that I've always used premium/ultimate in my car, not only because the book recommends it, but because I believe the octane level should be higher to burn cleaner. I had a Toyota Corolla and I used a cheaper grade of gasoline just once and my car was shaking so bad and didn't have any pick-up, I thought the engine was blown. Prior to that, I never had a problem with the Corolla.

    P.S. My original reply went to bobbyr4 by mistake. Sorry Bobby.
  • dw1212dw1212 Posts: 1
    I've got almost 84K on my 2000 SE. Only major repair was for ignition coils earlier this year. :mad:

    Other standard repairs:
    Change of serpentine belt, tires, battery, front & rear brakes and front rotors.

    I've kept up on the maintenance and haven't had any repairs out of the ordinary.
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I also have a 2003 maxima (se) and also heard rattles coming from passenger side on rough road. when I brought it up to the dealer, they said it was the result of faulty tie rod ends and replaced them. seemed to address the problem at first, but eventually the rattle came back. my rattle didn't sound like coins, more hollow sounding than that, so might not be same problem.
  • jvel7jvel7 Posts: 1
    Interesting that I am seeing this same issue across many Maxima owners. I also have a 2005 SL with shimmy and acceleration problems. Not to mention that the transmission bangs into gear occasionally, most of the times when slowing down. I am very interested in participating in a class action lawsuit since my car has been in the shop 3 times for this very same problem. I get the infamous "we could not recreate problem" excuse. Of course, you test drive it at 50-60mph on a local road and not on the highway. I am very disappointed so far considering I owned 2 Nissan Altima's prior ( ' 99 & ' 02). Not to mention the dealer would not pay for my rental for the day or provide a loaner. I will note all of these threads and write a letter to Nissan Corporation. I am at the point where I will probably retain an attorney. Good luck to all.
  • I'm wondering if someone can tell me if they know the answer to this. I've had a problem with the CD player in my car for a couple years. It started about a year or so after I purchased my 2002 Maxima. It never was a priority to me - although I did mention it to the dealer service when I had the car in for some routine work.

    To make a long story short - nothing was ever done about it and the problem still exists.

    However, purely by coincidence I discovered today that there is a Nissan TSB (Service Bulletin) that describes the exact problem I'm seeing and provides the solution (ordering a new Audio unit, etc).

    I'm wondering if the fact that there is a TSB for an acknowleged problem means that it will be fixed at no charge if I take the car to the dealer (even though it is beyond its 3yr / 36000 coverage).

    Wondering if anyone has any experience with TSBs and how dealers react to them.

  • phopho Posts: 9
    I replaced my cd player last year at no charge. That was a known problem on Max. Make sure to tell the dealer there was a TSB on that problem.
  • I have an 01 Max SE, with 90K. Dealer just informed me that I need a Catalytic Converter ($800). Will talk to my mechanic first. But besides that Back brakes @ dealer ($400) rip off - Front brakes by the mechanic on the corner ($100) back in 02.
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima that was purchased in summer of 02 (first 03 sold in the city actually). Since the car's factory warranty was only 3yr/36k, I am no longer under warranty protection and did not buy an extended warranty. Increased fuel costs combined with an upcoming transition into a sales role has made me consider trading in for something with better gas mileage (getting between 15.5-17.5 MPG depending on season - mostly city/suburban driving). However, the fact that I've already seen most of the depreciation on the car has made me hesitant to dump it since years 3-5 tend to be where most of the value is found in a vehicle (up front depreciation has already rolled off, residual depreciation per year reduced significantly going forward). So the $64k question is how reliable can I expect the car to be in the next 2-3 years? If I keep a car that will start to eat up repairs, I lose, but if I trade in what would have been a highly reliable car and start all over, I also lose.

    Any thoughts? Thanks.
  • rick70rick70 Posts: 1
    my nissan will surge while holding the gas to the floor rpm goes up then down then will go away and run fine for 2 or 3 mins then statrs surging again any ideas??
  • abhaabha Posts: 1

    I have a 1991 Maxima with auto transmission and it was working fine, I noticed that it's transmission fluid level has increased, initially I removed some of it and brought it to level by thinking that mechanic has made a mistake, then next day it was again high, then I noticed that it was probably a seal leakage and coolant was mixing with transmission fluid. In between that I noticed that gears have started slipping too. But they work, it only happens when fluid/transmission gets warmer. I have stopped using the vehicle.

    Can any one give me an idea what would be the cost of fixing that leakage, as one mechanic told me it will be around $1500-2000. So I have not dared to go to another one so far.

    Some one on the forum told me that I can import a used transmission from Japan and the whole cost would be less than $1000 including labor etc. But I have yet to get the name of the company which imports parts.

    Any other ideas?

  • Did your coolant level go down? I am not a mechanic, but I doubt that it's possible for coolant to get into your transmission. Also, I think it's easier to find a used low-mileage transmission at a junk yard, than to have one shipped from Japan. There's a web site,, that gives you a way to search a lot of junk yards' inventory. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Yeah it can. Your automatic trans is cooled by your car's radiator, which has a separate tank for recirculating a/t fluid around the radiator. If the wall between the two tanks leaks, then you have this problem.

    Anyway, have the radiator tested by all means or the problem will re-occur.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Did you get your brake rotors checked for the shimmy? The brake rotors seem to go bad fast on these cars. They need recalls for the rotors, the struts and transmission!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Try posting with your CAPS LOCK OFF. Most members of online forums ignore posts with CAPS LOCKS as it is interpreted as "shouting" and is also very hard for most people to read.

    thank you


    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I just had my battery replaced and now my car won't start. What did you learn about this?
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    I'm having the same problem on a '00 Max. ( new starter ). I'm going to replace the ignition sw. relay and the starter relay. ( ~ $80 total ). I'm also going to carry my spare key because it could possibly be a bad chip in the key. Who knows!!!

    My nightmare scenario is that the car won't start, I have it towed to the dealer ,and the #@%&; thing starts and I'm back to square one. Don't you just love intermittent starting problems! :mad:
  • I have 2003 Maxima with 64,000 miles. It started, ran rough, sounded like it was knocking,quite and would not start again. Could it be the timing chain/belt or something else?

  • jakebjakeb Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Maxima with more miles than I care to count. About a week ago she started stalling at low speeds and red lights. The headlights and inner lights were also dim. I thought it might be gas because I had the problem once before , switched gas and it ran fine. This time however I switched the gas , and had the battery changed. The battery took care of the dimnes however she still "sputters" at red lights and feels like she wants to stall ... also the fuel millage from the last fill up is way worse than normal ... any suggestions ?
  • mastjmastj Posts: 14
    I agree with you on overall Nissan quality. This is my first and last Nissan. Nice styling on the Maxima, but performance, quietness and drivetrain are basically mediocre. Nothing impressive. I have an 05 SE that has 15,000 miles on it. Has some intermitent starting problem that dealership can't replicate, paint chipping problem on rocker panel and noise in front suspension now. Fortunately I haven't had the shimmy's - yet.

    Transmission is harsh, torque at low rpms is horrible. Gas mileage isn't any better that the GM 3800 supercharged w/ 4 speed transmission.

    Overall confused as to why I spent $30k for this car???
  • mastjmastj Posts: 14
    Ditto here on the tranny - From what I can tell, you will just have to get used to it.... or sell the car!

    Torque steer is absolutely terrible, compared to my 1998 Regal GS - which has more torque, ironically. With the Regal, you can stomp on it in and it doesn't pull - period. Basically, I think that you will learn not to bother pushing the car... that is the only way I've figured out to avoid the steering wheel from jerking around.
  • Any advice on how to reset it?
    Already been to the dealer, and of course, I was ripped off.
    They fixed the problem all of about 20 minutes, and then the light was back on.
    Any advice?
  • I also have a 2001 Maxima SE and I think $800 is ridiculous for a catalytic converter. You can probably get the work done by a non-dealer garage for $300, maybe less.

    I went to the dealer for my brakes and they wanted $800. I went to a place I've used before and I ended up paying $325. Big difference.
  • I've got a 2001 Maxima with similar problems. I have an intermittent no start. It cranks, but won't turnover. It usually takes 2 - 3 times to finally get it started. I've taken it to 3 different dealers 4 different times, but they can't duplicate the problem because it's intermittent. :confuse: My only option is to tolerate it until a code comes up.

    Bottom line: intermittent starter/ignition problems suck. They can NEVER get the problem to duplicate, but it always does it when you're driving it. I swear, some cars are just possessed. ;)
  • I have had the same problem. I own a 99 Maxima with about 80K and when going at low speeds or stop signs and stop lights the KPM will go crazy and will jump up. The car has stalled on multiply occasions and I have brought it in to the dealer a handful times. They would always reset the KPM and that never worked. Finally in July they did something that seemed to work however now only 3 months later it is acting up again. ...I have no idea whats wrong but hopefully someone can help
  • I also have a 2001 Maxima. The intermittent starting problem occurred this morning. I took my vehicle to my neighborhood automotive service center. They did a diagnostics test and the following codes generated: P0420 Two way catalyst system and P0158 H02S Bank 2 Sensor 2. They recommended I go to my dealer to replace the sensors at about $161 a piece (3) and/or repair the catalytic converter. I am not an expert at cars (I'm a gal), but I find it nearly impossible that this qualifies as "normal" wear and tear on a car. My agent also informed me that one of our local dealers (not the one where I purchased my car) has seen this problem so often, Nissan issued a "bulletin" concerning the exact codes and how to re-set the computer. Hope the codes help. Good luck !
  • I've got a '95 Nissan Maxima that appears to run great except when I accelerate. When I accelerate it starts to vibrate, almost seemingly as fast as some mechanism in the motor. I've had the wheels aligned and the tires balanced. We just replaced all the shocks. It has a new transmission (earlier this year) and the guy who relaced my shocks said he wasn't sure what it was, but they did notice that the boot for the motormount was torn and they want to replace that. He admitted he didn't know if that would resolve it or not, but he still wants to do it to eliminate that possibility. $300 for an "I think it will fix it." I'm not going to have any other choice unless someone out here has an idea.

    The mechanic also said that when I push on the gas in Park, the motor seems to lift up a little bit. Would that cause vibration and would it be resolved with a new motor mount boot?

    Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Did this vibration happen right after the news trans was put in?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have a 01 Maxima which had the "rear" O2 sensor replaced (SES on) at approximately 65,000 miles after the SES had been intermittent for a couple of months. Now at 86,000 the car would not run more than 25 mph. Dealer found the intake, throttle body, etc almost completely choked off with carbon. Had it cleaned, new PVC valve and minor parts and gaskets. 50 miles later SES on again. Anyone else had a Maxima to "carbon up" and what did it take to correct.
  • Honestly, I can't remember. There were a number of front end issues I was having with it during and after the transmission problem. Before I got the front end stuff fixed and the shocks and struts replaced, it was all a jumble of issues. Now that I've taken care of doing that, this one last thing (that and a paint job) stands out as an issue.

    I did get the job done at MAACO (before I hear any grumbles, I was stuck in LA and I didn't really have a choice. I had to get it fixed) and they have a warranty on it. Maybe I'll drop by there this week and have them do a once over for me before I do the boot thing.

    So, are you leaning more towards transmission rather than motor mount boot?

Sign In or Register to comment.