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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • My 1987 Nissan Maxima didn;t start and I took it to Pepboys. They say Battery, Alternator, Spark Plug and starting System are all OK.

    But, when I turn on Ignition, the Alarm System is getting activated and because of that the CAR won't start (as ignition and Alarm cannot start at same time.) Pepboys told me to take it to Nissan Dealer. And Dealer told me that he will charge $110 just for diagnosis. I don't know how much it will cost to repair as the car is worth only $1000 per KBB. Please help. Any input would be appreciated.

    - Harshavardhan SG
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Well you know there are certain procedures regarding the re-install of the automatic transmission that could affect the harmonic balance of the drivetrain, yes, definitely.

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  • So, do you think that if I took it back to MAACO and it's a transmission problem that they'll admit it or try to point the blame somewhere else?
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    You were not very specific about your starting problems.Perhaps you could expound on this. Also, the codes that were kicked-out usually involve parts that would normally affect performance and fuel economy. I would be very surprised if the catalytic converter or the O2 sensors would create a no start situation.

    Actually, unfortunately, the following are real problems for the 5th gen. Max....... ignition coils, O2 sensors,
    MAF ( Mass Airflow ) sensor,and cam and crank angle sensors (TSB).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Well it's not an easy problem to just "see". You could have them check for something loose but if they put a driveshaft or flywheel in wrong well there you go but how can you tell? These parts should be carefully marked for position before they are re-installed. Drivetrain balance is very important.

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  • My '92 Maxima GXE has been bulletproof for 190,000 miles.
    Original tranny,A/C,exhaust,fuel pump,starter,hoses etc., though i did replace radiator, belts(they were orig), a ball joint and finally the alternator. Has never failed to run perfectly, uses not a drop of oil and gets 27mpg on hwy. Original pearl paint looks showroom new. It's worth way more than i could ever sell it for so i'll keep it. But as you know, at this point a few niggling issues occur like slow windows, sticky locks, weak hood struts, worn suspension parts, etc.

    Here's my questions, if anyone out there can comment or help me out....
    1)Suspension! Rear struts are original and seem fine. Front struts have 95,000 miles on them but car doesn't porpoise or rebound when you do the old "push down on the fender" test. I believe they're fine. I replaced one ball joint a few years ago. I think perhaps that my strut mounts are bad. Why? A few mech's have suggested the issue and the car thumps and knocks alot over small bumps/irregularities at low speeds. It's obnoxious! Is this a likelihood?
    2) Transmission engagement! My tranny is orig' and upshifts and downshifts fine. I've had the fluid changed once. If you slowly shift the auto trans into drive, it fails to engage until you tap on the top of the shifter, even if you do it lightly! If you shift down from park to drive firmly and quickly, it immed. goes in to drive. The tranny DOES NOT slip, and all downshifts, passing gears, etc. work fine, as does the adjustable transmission system.
    I've heard this is a common issue on these cars and all it needs is a small adjustment, or a small part changed. Any clue, anyone?
  • dickldickl Posts: 2
    Like the previous message, my Max was stalling after 10 minutes of drive time. I then had to wait 60 seconds or so, re-start and then all was fine.
    Now the car will 'die' without any warning within the first 10-15 minutes of driving. This can 2-3 times, then the car runs fine. But, if parked for 1-2 hours, the same thing happens again.
    My mechanic cant seem to locate the problem.
    Any suggestions??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    You can't really test struts that way, by pushing down on the car. At 95K they are certainly tired but you might not notice HOW tired until you replace them---then you'll notice a difference. But your old ones might still function okay, just not anywhere near top performance anymore.

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  • hi, i recently bought a 1993 maxima with 270000 on the clock and just the other night i turned the car off with the climate control still on (which i have done hundreds of times with no adverse effects). When i started the car the next morning, the blower was still on but the climate control was not and now (short of removing fuses) i cannot get the blower to stop blowing. Does anybody know where the relay for the blower motor is because i think it might be stuck on. Also has anyone else had similar problems because all the air con specialists i have taken it to have just given me funny looks and refused to even bother. THanks.
  • I also own a 93 maxima and my rear brakes make all kinds of noises from loud clicks that sound like wheel bearing problems to high pitched squealing as the car comes to rest. A mechanic that i trust informed me that its because around that year, brake pad manufacturers moved from the asbestos pads to a new compound which, on poorer quality pads make a lot of noise. The only way to eliminate that is to purchase better quality pads than what was on the car originally.
  • Maximas have a safety feature on them that is supposed to prevent you from bumping the shifter out of neutral and into drive by accident. Try putting it into 2nd gear and then up into drive as that is how the safey feature is designed.
  • dickldickl Posts: 2
    my Max stalls witiin 10-15 of starting--with no Warning!! I then wait 60 seconds or so, re-start and then all was fine.
    This can happen 2-3 times, then the car runs fine. But, if parked for 1-2 hours, the same thing happens again.
    My mechanic cant seem to locate the problem.
    I love this car and would hate to say goodbye to it.
    3.0L, 190HP, 160K miles.
    Any suggestions?
  • Had a similar problem with my 96 Maxima. It would stall while the engine was warming up and then run fine after warmed up. The check engine light came on when this problem started. Dealer said the failure indicator from the check engine did not indicate anything that would cause this problem. What was indicated was a bad "temp sensor". I had them replace that and no furthur problems. Must have been causing the stalling as far as I can see. If you want furthur information, I still have the receipt from the repairs.

  • jgtmiljgtmil Posts: 19
    I am new to this forum so you may already have a solution to this problem. Above the intake manifold and below the plenum there is a rubber fuel line, in cold weather it hardens until the engine is warm softening it up to make a good seal. the best be is to replace it.
  • jgtmiljgtmil Posts: 19
    I have a 94 maxima w/231k, and when it is cold out the auto transmission will not shift from 2nd to 3rd for at least 1 min. after the trans seems to warm up it is ok despite the abrupt normal shifting. I have replaced the fluid with no improvement...any suggestions?
  • You must be lucky where you live. My 2000 SE 3 litre with 87000 on the clock is in the garage today getting the sensors replaced. They tell me that they cannot tell which one or ones need to be replaced but the bill could be anywhere between €1200 for one sensor and €3500 for all four. I am a little bit devastated.
  • To be honest with you..... I am considering change my SL-05 for that situation.... I couldn't realized in my mind why a car like this ($$$) could work that way. I posted two messages before about that issue ( please see message # 2303 and 2632 with respective answers) . To add something and maybe to punish me I bought a Ford Freestyle with CVT .... That put my SL-05 at the end of my "Nice cars to drive" list. :surprise: :cry: :mad: :( :confuse:
  • I also have the catalytic converter issue with my '01 Maxima. I am at 109,000 but under 8 years. Does that still qualify? Seems like this is a problem that should warrant a recall.
  • kxdkxd Posts: 2
    Donnyeyes, were you able to solve your problem. I had just spent $450 at the dealer to get a new 02 sensor and reprogram the ECM on my 2000 I30 (same engine). 3 days after, I added chevron techroline additive and a day later, the SES light came back on. Took it to the dealer, same diagnosis, Catalytic convertor bank 1. Dealer wants $990. Please help. You think after a couple of tanks full of gas, the problem may resolve itself?
  • gtwgtw Posts: 46
    anyone know where the instructions are on how to replace a friggin headlight in a 2004 Max? It doesn't appear to be easy.
  • I just had my belt changed by a nondealer and it makes a light high pitched noise. Any thoughts
  • My wife also has a 2001 Maxima SE and we just experience a similar problem. The car is actually runnning a little rougher than normal and the check engine light came on (we're at 119k). The dealer said it was the Cat. Converter - Bank 2 and will cost $900. We're tired of thie problems with this car and dealing w/ the dealership inflate prices.

    A local repair shop is going to replace the cat. converter for $350 with a new OEM part. We're just going to cross our fingers and hope the part works well since it's a non-Nissan Part.
  • gurkgurk Posts: 2
    I was on the highway in the rain doing about 50 and i stepped on my accelorator pretty hard. I got up to about 65 when my traction control kicked in. The slip light flashed a few times then my car shut off. I pulled over and restarted it but wasnt able to go above 40 mphs and no higher than 3000 rpms. Also my tcs light is on as well as my slip and check engine soon. what did i do?
  • I have a 2001 Maxima SE that I bought brand new 4 years ago. The car is a manual transmission and now has 76,500 miles on it. It has performed flawlessly for all of those miles. I just recently decided to change the spark plugs myself and I checked with my local Nissan dealer on how much the stock plugs cost. He told me they were a ridiculous $16.50 apiece! I informed him I would probably buy an after market part. He then informed me that after market spark plugs would not work in my Maxima. He either was an idiot or thought I was. Anyway, I put in the new Denso Iridium plugs made for the Maxima and they cost $12.99 apiece at the local AutoZone. Pretty pricey but well worth it. My car seems to have more power now then when it was new. In addition I replaced the stock air filter with a permanent K&N air filter and that also seemed to increase my power since it is supposed to allow more air flow to the engine. I recommend both of these changes. Don't know anything about coil failure as of yet. My car has never run better. The only other problem I have right now is my front disc brake rotors keep warping. Therefore I have ordered from Tire a front set of Brembo rotors which cost $46.00 apiece. Not bad. Plus a new set of Hawk ceramic front brake pads. They are supposed to provide better braking, not warp rotors, and also eliminate brake dust. I will report back on them when they arrive and I put them on.
  • I have a new 2006 Nissan Maxima SE (about 1,000 miles). I have encountered this situation. Sometimes, when I brake the steering wheel pulls to the right or to the left. It is as if a brake was grabbing or there was an alignment problem.. The dealer's service says this happens because of the 18 wheels and tires. He says the irregularities of the roadway causes it to happen. He says there is nothing wrong with the car and nothing that needs to be fixed or that can be fixed.

    Have others experienced this?
  • Does anyone have the instructions and/or pictures on how to replace the spark plugs for a 2002 Maxima GLE? I have approx. 71,000 on the car which still has the original spark plugs. I have heard that the back spark plugs are difficult to replace.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • After posting message 2987, I noticed an item in the left hand column of the window. To my horror, I see that there is a braking-steering wheel problem that a law firm thinks makes the vehicle a lemon.

    But I would very much like to hear about the experiences of others!
  • I am not sure about the 2002 Maxima because that is the first year Nissan changed the car from a 3.0L to a 3.5L engine. I just changed the spark plugs on my 2001 Nissan Maxima (3.0L) engine. The front plugs were, of course, very simple because they are right up front and nothing is obstructing them. However, I had a devil of a time with the rear plugs. There is plenty of things obstructing them including the throttle cables, the hood, etc. Short of removing the entire hood I had to crane my head way back over the engine to get the three coils lose (10mm bolts hold them on). Then I had to remove the throttle cables (one for throttle body and one for the cruise control). Then I had to loosen each plug and snake a flexible cable with a claw to remove each plug. Anyway, took me about two hours to finish the whole job.
  • my 91 maxima will start fine then after driving in the rain for about five minutes it will start to miss and then die completely! when you try to start it again the battery is almost dead. It will crank a couple of times before there is no more juice. After waiting a while, say a half hour, it will jump start and run fine. This has stranded me more than a few times. I have replaced the usual: cap,rotor,ignition wires, battery terminals,battery and timing belt, because it needed to be done. Now this problem only arises when it is very damp or its raining. Has anyone had a problem like this? I'm afraid to drive any long distances. any help would be greatly appreciated
  • I just got an 01 20th ann edition and the control arm broke after I had it for a week and 2 days. Very scary. Called Nissan but my VIN# wasn't covered in the recall. Went to NHTSA? website that issued the recall and the same thing has happened to others. Nissan sucks cuz if you messed up on 01 Maximas, how do you know exactly which cars are messed up? Isn't that what a mistake is? Anyone else have this prob?
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