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Hyundai Elantra 5-door

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  • Suggestion: Maybe..? ;)
    You need your wife's car, and another one, and an adequate location where this can be set up. Have her set the mirrors as she likes. Then place the 2d car in the blind spot, on both sides,(one at a time of course) and have her get out of the car and see where the 2d one is located. Then set, or have her reset, the mirrors correctly, without moving the 2d car, and let her see again. Maybe even move it again, to show how close it would have to be for her to see it. Explain the "whys" etc very calmly "without raising the voice level". Most of the time I have seen something like this work. We all sometimes just have to see things from another perspective before we change our minds. PS, Short has nothing to do with it. Good Luck.
    :) van
  • 4ruth4ruth Posts: 11
    On my 2006 elantra hatchback, there is a digital readout that supposedly tells me what mileage I am getting per gallon. Having just taken a long trip and used my cruise control as much as possible, I got a reading showing 34 mpg. However when I got the tank filled, I had really only gotten 24.4 mpg.

    How does this tool work. Is the feedback saying "If you were to drive in this particular condition all the time, you would be getting this kind of mileage" or is it truly supposed to be measuring from fill to fill the kind of mileage you are getting?

    What is this readout or tool called? I could not find anything in the owner's manual about it but I did not know what term to use to search.
    Is my "tool" for measuring mpg broken?

    Thanks for any future input on the question. Ruth
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    The trip computer on the Elantra GT hatchback gives the actual mpg since the last time you reset it. If you do not specifically take action to reset it, it doesn't reset, even when you fill the tank. Did you reset the mpg meter when you filled the tank at the start of your trip?

    The other thing I've found with my GT is that with some gas stations, it's very hard to get the tank to within 1-2 gallons of full. Say you fill the tank to click-off at one station and again at the end of your trip, at another station, but put in 2 gallons less than you did originally. That would reduce your calculated mpg but would not affect the calculations from the trip computer, which are based on actual gas used.

    You should be able to find the trip computer documented in the owner's manual where it talks about the functions of the instrument panel.
  • I've found the milage computer to be off as well, generally by 3-4 mpg. And that's based on a fillup to fillup measurement.

    It's very odd, because the miles to empty feature tends to work rather well, actually. Although, I'll admit, I've never let myself run out of gas just to determine its accuracy.
  • The trip computer is way off for me as well. Lately my trip computer shows an MPG reading of about 4 to 6 mpg better (32-33 mpg) than manual calculation (26 to 28 mpg). I always use the same gas station and the same method of when to stop (first click). I always reset the trip computer at each fill up.

    I actually let my "Miles to Empty" get to 0. The funny thing is that when this happened the entire LCD of the trip computer started flashing. I was able to drive another 3 miles or so to a gas station.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I am not sure why there is such a great disparity on these calculations. On my '05 GT the computer calculation is almost always 1-2MPG below the actual. Close enough for me, but it seems like either the number is just a bit low, or quite a bit high. I have figured out that the number is a running average and does not "start over" at each fill up the way the "Miles to Go" does. It appears that the MTG number is based off the drop in the fuel gauge and little else.

    I figured out the averaging on the computer due to going from week in/week out driving in traffic and seeing 26MPG averages, then doing a highway trip where I calculated a true mileage of 34MPG, but the computer only went up a slight amount. The more highway driving I did, the more the average went up.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    Yes, the mpg meter only starts over if you push the reset button.

    I'm not sure why I'm seeing little difference between the mpg meter and at-the-pump mpg numbers. Maybe I got lucky?
  • the trip computer starts flashing when the miles to empty reaches 30 miles left. We seem to have no problems with our trip computer. We fill it to almost the brim and reset it each time.We try to get the cheapest gas. We are probably just lucky also.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I will have to look at mine again. I never realized the mpg could be reset. I just reset the trip miles.
  • 4ruth4ruth Posts: 11
    Me again. I reset the mpg meter each time I fill up. I also fill at the same station and in the same way.

    I am wondering whether the great mileage that we are supposed to be getting is based on actual calculations or on these meter readings.

    On this past trip, I did all I could do to maximize mileage: I was mostly on country roads with little traffic so I could set my cruise control for 60 mph and leave in on most of the time. I was using no extras like AC and I had both the moon roof and the windows closed to decrease drag. And still I did not get up 30 mph real miles, though the meter showed me up to 34.2 at the end of the trip.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    I am wondering whether the great mileage that we are supposed to be getting is based on actual calculations or on these meter readings.

    I've done it both ways (and I owned a '01 Elantra for over 5 years that had no mpg meter), and I think it's very strange that you cannot average over 30 mpg under the conditions you described. The only thing I can think of is that you tend to drive with a "heavy foot." I've noticed huge differences in fuel economy with just slight differences in pedal pressure. Just today, I was driving a rental Impala on freeways. It has an instantaneous mpg meter (wish the Elantra had that). By just letting up on the gas pedal a very, very small amount I watched the instantaneous mpg jump from around 30-32 to upper 30s or low 40s (this was at 60-65 mph, level terrain). If I pressed just a little harded, the car didn't go any faster (maybe another 1 mph) but the mpg dropped. Try pretending that there is a raw egg between your foot and the gas pedal. Also keep your foot off the gas as much as possible--I think this is called "pulse and glide".
  • I don't have the trip computer so all my calculations are the old-fashioned way.

    I've gotten between 21 and 35 mpg since getting the car new, for an average of about 26 and a half. In mixed driving with AC on, I get about 25 or so; with AC off (even with windows down), I get 27-28.... provided I use the raw egg approach described above. If I lean into a little, that goes down, but still not too much.

    My last car was a Ford Aspire, so I don't feel I need a lot of gas to get where I'm going; I glide around pretty good. My best trick for mileage is when I get on the freeway I try to use steady acceleration to get up to about 50-55 mph by the end of the ramp, then slowly blend into traffic at about 63 and set my cruise. I find that by not trying to be up to full cruising speed by the end of the ramp, I barely need to touch the accelerator.
  • I'll weigh in on this also...

    I've been very carefully calculating my mileage on my 05 Elantra for the past few months. I'm typically a pretty aggressive driver — passing everyone in front of me, accelerating quickly, braking quickly, and generally having a lot of fun with the car. Under those conditions, I typically get around 28-30 MPG in mostly rural driving. I use full synthetic oil in the car, by the way.

    After I received a speeding ticket in the Elantra (first one in over 20 years), I decided to slow down a bit and also see if I can get better mileage doing so. By keeping my speed at or below 62, accelerating "modestly" up to speed, braking "modestly" as well (rather than waiting until the last second and stress-testing the disk brakes), and using the cruise control as often as possible, I've been consistently getting between 30 and 34 MPG. That makes sense...nothing surprising there. But I believe that the trick to getting the most out of the (relatively) small engine is to really be careful with acceleration and deceleration. When the car is up to speed, it appears to be pretty efficient. Yet when pressed to provide a lot of torque, I think the mileage drops significantly. My own experience bears that out. When I feather the throttle more than usual, I invariably get better mileage per tank.

    So I think I have the hang of working the throttle and brakes for the best efficiency. Now, I'm checking tire pressure pretty often since the weather is getting quite a bit colder in Michigan and each degree of change will affect the pressures. Having good tires that don't lose air helps a lot (I'm using B.F. Goodrich Traction T/A H tires) but nearly every tire that is filled with air (rather than nitrogen or helium) will be affected by temps. I'm going with tire pressures somewhere between Hyundai's own recommendations (30 psi) and the max cold pressures stamped in the sidewalls of the tires (42 psi). Obviously, keeping those stiff tires at lower pressures will help with ride comfort, but will adversely affect mileage. So if I'm feeling cheap, I'll jack up the pressures by a few pounds. Normally, I run around 35.

    Finally, colder weather means denser air. If I remember correctly, that means higher horsepower but lower mileage since the car has to push through a "thicker" air mass. I'll back off on the performance antics and see if I can still keep the MPG figures close to summer figures, but I think that's a losing battle. I'll probably be running around 28 MPG again.

    Hope that helps a bit.
  • FYI, basic physics states that helium, nitrogen and *air* expand and contract at the same rate with respect to temperature. In cases, volume is directly proportional to temerature. Period.

    The only advantage to nitrogen is that it leaks less readily than air.

    That "volume is directly proportional to temperature" part is that same law of physics that confirms your denser air bit, though. Yes, there is more oxygen for combustion per unit volume at lower temperatures. I don't think the drag of the thicker air mass has a significant effect on mileage though. Oil companies use different gas formulations at different times of the year, though, and that may affect mileage.

    A couple of quick questions for you: Is your Elantra AT or MT? Also, are you basing mileage on trip computer or hand calculations?
  • I have an automatic 5-door GLS...no trip computer. Everything is calculated by hand. While I'm a university technology professor by trade, I don't trust computer technology all that much since I know quite a bit about it.

    FYI, my statement about nearly all tires filled with air (rather than nitrogen or helium) being affected by temperatures was a bit misleading. A well-known fact about nitrogen-filled tires is that they react much more slowly to temperature changes than air due to the fact that the nitrogen contains far less moisture than air. Yes, they lose pressure much more slowly than air since rubber is less permeable to nitrogen than to air (nitrogen has larger molecules). But you're right: overall, the expansion doesn't change. What does change is the amount of expansion over time, which is lower with nitrogen and much less erratic. Is it worth up to $10 per tire to have them charged with nitrogen? It would be if you don't check your tires all that much. So I'm going to go check my tires right now since I have a long trip to make tomorrow morning. :)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
  • I have a 2007 4-cylinder Hyundai Sonata. My checkups costs from the dealer have pretty been right on the money according to what they predict. My dealer in the Tidewater area of Virginia gives free oil changes and free state inspections for life. (Their labor charges are $95 per hour.) My 5,000 mi. checkups have been around $32-38. In the booklet, it does say that the 30,000 mi. checkup is a "biggie" and starts around $225. I asked the service manager after my 25,000 mi checkup last month the cost for the 30,000 mi. checkup and he quoted $518. This seems excessive to me. I will call them again before I take it in and check with another dealer as a basis...even at $95 per hour, how many hours of check up would this take and what is being replaced?
    Thanks, Jackie
  • montana7montana7 Posts: 3
    We are having trouble finding an Elantra in Montana.
    We have a choice of Back with "black" leather interior,"purple rain" with black leather interior, or "dark gray" with dark gray FABRIC interior. Price range is about 1k more for Elantras with the leather interior. How to decide?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    Really comes down to whether you like leather or cloth better and if leather is worth $1000 more to you. I have cars with both (including a 2004 Elantra with leather) and overall I prefer cloth, but some people swear by leather. One thing to note: is the grey Elantra with cloth an SE or GLS? If it's a GLS, then you might want to go for one of the SEs with leather since the SE has stability control.
  • montana7montana7 Posts: 3
    Does anyone have the bluetooth option on their 2008 Elantra SE? Ours came with about everything but that option. It has on column controls for the XM and radio ect and LEATHER. :) I just wonder how to get the factory option for bluetooth. :confuse:
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    There is no factory option for Bluetooth on the 2008 Elantra for the U.S. You might be able to find a dealer-installed Bluetooth unit, ala the one for the 2009 Sonata, or you could buy a portable GPS with Bluetooth.
  • Yesterday, while driving my car to work, the check engine ligth came on. My Elantra has 93,500 miles and never had a problem with it until now. Went to a Hyundai dealer in Florida, and was told that the check engine light came on as a result of a hairline crack on the manifold and it would cost $403.56 plus tax to replace the manifold and gasket, plus an additional 133.46 plus tax for an O2 sensor on bank 1 if oxygen sensor is stuck when replacing the manifold.

    I felt the dealer's service department was overcharging me for these repairs and therefore declined the repairs until able to do a little research. I am not sure if my vehicle was made before Jan 31, 2002 (to be covered by the recall as described in other posting in this forum).. My question(s) are:
    1. Can I get a reliable replacement of the manifold and sensor for less than 571.92?
    2. Or is this something I can do myself?
    3. Are there other alternatives to replacing the manifold, such as welding?

    Thanks for your assistance and advice...
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    The first thing to do is verify the car's manufacture date. It will be on a label on or near the driver's door, inside back edge (could be on the door jamb). No sense paying for the repair when it would be covered under the recall/extended warranty.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    If you are the original owner of the car, it is covered under warranty. 10years, 100K miles.

    And there was indeed a recall for that very problem. If the dealer keeps acting like a jerk, contact Hyundai.
  • I have a elantra 06 model with the hvt engine dose anyone else have a rattle when
    they first start and if they take the revs up to about 1500 then let go sounds a bit
    like a tappet. I noticed that they have gone to the c v v t engine now maybe there
    was a problem. I am an ex mechanic but disabled now after car accident so I know
    the noise is out of place.
  • You can get a wheel lock club also. It is just another way to slow down the theft. If you do lost the club key, locksmith can unlock it. The 2012 Elentra GLS also has an engine immobilizer.
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