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I bought my 2002 GT in April of this year, and I'm happy to report I've had zero problems with it. It runs great and even my friends (who hounded me for buying a Hyundai) have told me what an awesome buy it was.
Anyway, I am nearing 3500 miles now on my car (take the metro to work, so I don't drive much except for the weekends), and from reading some earlier posts on this board, it's coming time for me to go in for that first oil change. I read that Hyundai's have certain additives in the oil when you first buy the car, and that they recommend you don't change your oil until 3500 miles...so that's why I've waited until now.
However, after reading all of the stripped oil pan horror stories, I'm wondering where I should go to get my oil changed. Should I head to Jiffy Lube (which does great jobs, usually) or go to the dealer? Should I make sure I tell them (whoever I decide on) to watch the drain plug and oil pan when changing the oil? And should I also tell them to make sure they only fill up with 3.5 quarts?
Also, recently...I've noticed a clicking noise that occurs about every 10 seconds after I'm done driving and turn of the engine. Anyone else notice this and know where it's coming from? Is it a problem?
Anyway, thanks in advance. Any help would be great.
http://www.holmesauto.com/
recently...I've noticed a clicking noise that occurs about every 10 seconds after I'm done driving and turn of the engine. Anyone else notice this and know where it's coming from? Is it a problem?
No. It is your hot exhaust system cooling down and contracting as it is cooling. I suspect that the noise is likely coming from the heat shield around your catalytic converter in particular. This noise is normal.
4.23 U.S.qts. of Oil WITH filter.
3.91 U.S.pts. of Oil WITHOUT filter.
http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=394878895#_394878895
My red GT with sun roof, mud guards, and floor mats. was 13,000 dollar
more later
bob
If not, how low do you think these guys will go?
2002 Hyundai Elantra GT
Color: Pewter
Inventory Status: In Stock
o Automatic Transmission
o Package 10
o Mud Guards
o Floor Mats
MSRP: $16,082
OFFER: $14,504.85
NC TAX: $435.15
LICENSE: $61
TITLE FEE: $199
S.TOTAL: $15,200
REBATE: $1,250
NET: $13,950
I put a Celica GT spoiler on my GT, but I don't have a picture on-line. Fortunately, Wmoses has a picture of his on his website at:
http://www.gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/gt2.shtml
These things vary by state and it's much simpler to leave sales tax and license fees out of any price quote.
I just reached agreement over the phone for a 2002 pewter elantra gt with auto, mud flaps, package 10, & mats.
Total net price is $13,250. This includes around $700 of NC taxes and stuff (NC TAX: $435.15 LICENSE: $61 TITLE FEE: $199).
So the net price to the dealer is around $12,550.
Also, they are giving me a 60 month loan at 4.99%.
A couple of days ago they had a couple of red ones with the same equipment if any one is intersted. The dealer is Southern States Hyundai of Raleigh on Wake Forest Rd.
Thanks for the great forum!
My only wintertime gripe? The lower heater vent on the driver's side blows hot air on my calves, but not my feet. Five minutes into my 45 minute commute this morning, the car was already warm inside, but even as I parked, my feet were still cold. Reaching down into the footwell, I could feel a strong current of warm air moving along right in front of the seat cushion, but the area around the pedals was still cold. Minor gripe, really, but this is the kind of thing that auto manufacturers should have down cold, so to speak.
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
The only surprise at the dearer was that they didn't try to sell me an extended warantee or any other BS I didn't agree on.
My initial impression is that the Elantra drives MUCH better than my wife's 2001 PT cruiser:
-better visability
-more comfortable seats
-much shorter turning radius
I can't believe this car looks and drives the way it does for a $13,250 car.
Around 4 years ago I helped my daughter buy an Acura Integra. I think it cost around $20K. IMHO the Elantra looks like a more expensive car and drives much better.
Anyway have a nice day everybody!
Thanks
I looked at the site for a rear fog wiring schematic but they are not listed.
Rear fog lights would be cool. Since the GT is billed as being a European style car, European style lighting would be appropriate. I wonder if it would be possible to run higher powered "fang" lights through a switch placed in one of the dummy switch slots to the left of the steering wheel?
I think I may have finally passed the legendary "mpgman" for total mileage. If there are any other high-mileage owners out there, check in and let the board know how you're doing.
It's a great feeling to have such a dependable car: 30,000 miles and only a burnt-out headlamp to show for it. On the other hand, it's sad to know that I'm already 1/3 through the powertrain warranty after 16 months!
My driver's side low-beam burnt out this week, and I was planning on replacing it myself. Any pointers? It looks like I will have to take the battery out to get to it.
For the ones near the battery I just undid the battery and moved it slighly to one side to give me better access - without disconnecting the cables.
I replaced the 4 globes with plus 50 globes a couple of months back, able to change all 4 in under an hour and that was taking it slowly.
Yes, you do have to take out the battery in order to change the driver's side lo-beam. You also have to remove the plastic cowling pieces that surround the battery and air intake (don't drop those screws!).
The hardest part of the task is actually aligning and inserting the replacement bulb into the lamp housing. It's a tight fit to begin with and the bulb is held in place by a spring-loaded clamp which must be "sprung" into place to hold the bulb. You have to do all of this while bent at an odd angle and looking from above. Oh, and you cannot touch the bulb with your bare skin. I used one of those little $1.99 "dentist mirror" gadgets you see at the checkout counters of auto parts stores. That tool really helped me see what I needed to do.
The entire replacement took about 35 minutes. It's not hard, you just have to be patient. Good luck.
http://www.gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/index.shtml
noticed that when driving on not so even pavement, the sound from under is little bit louder. Guess I gotta get used to it. other than that, what a fantastic car! I'll really enjoy the daily 50 mile commute.
Be sure to join the 'mailing list' which is a LISTSERVE where you can ask a question and have it sent to all on the list via email and lots of answers right away delivered to your mailbox.
Lots of friendly folks.
Wayne Moses is doing a great job on the site and the LISTSERVE.
I unscrewed it and removed it just to be safe. Does everyone do this?
Let us know how it goes?
TIA Frank
Note: this antenna will not fit directly on the GT. You must use the Euro antenna base adapter.
The GT has a really weird antenna mount size as you found out. The only other alternative is to cut the stock antenna to about 1 and 1/2 " size and use the universal mount that comes with the antenna kit. Its the tall black adapter. It mounts to the old antenna mast and tightens with an allen key. Then you screw the new antenna on to it.
Nice idea on using the universal mount, but I seem to have misplaced whatever female-to-female connector is necessary to go from the top of the universal adapter with the screws to the black antenna. (Murphy's Law I guess). Fortunately, I didn't cut the factory antenna. At this point, I'm going to try taking some black paint to it. It won't look as good as the Euro rubber or Pep Boys version, but I know it will have good reception!
One extra thing that I'll be asking the Hyundai service guys about is Technical Service Bulletin #01-36-025. According to alldata.com this is to fix "...High idle speed, Slow RPM drop during shift.". My 5 speed has been plagued by this since it was new. When I let off the accelerator to shift, the engine seems to take forever to drop in rpm's. I'm left with the choice of shifting right away and letting the clutch match the rpm's (more wear on the clutch), or waiting an extra second or two for the rpm's to drop so I can match engine and drivetrain speed. I'm not 18 anymore (or even double that!) so I'm a little more patient when I drive, but I sure hope this is something that can be remedied.
It goes away when you stop at a light. It doesn't seem to get louder with higher RPM's.
Anyone hear this?
Thanks
You should be able to order the black tib antenna from the parts department with the pedals. I'm afraid the pedals might get slippery when wet but I like the look!
I (like CS) had the slow to return to idle sydrome when I bought my GT a year ago. At about 1100 miles I complained to the dealer about it and was told "they all do that" and "its designed like that to help you shift-automatic heal and toe". Well, like CS over time mine has corrected itself and returns to idle right away. I guess their "design" is now broken ;-)
delaluz
I never had the sound your are describing. I would recommend a dealer visit. Sounds like a warranty repair.
I intend to adress Hyundai Canada and mayby consummers protection agencies if there are no satisfactory answers.