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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy



  • I have an '02 Envoy XL SLT with the 3.42 gears. Even without heavy load it will downshift to maintain the cruise setting. I believe the manual indicates the truck can be driven in 3rd gear to minimize this effect. Check it out.
  • White smoke at atart up sounds like it could be a blown head gasket. Does it smell like anti freeze? In any event, this would certainly affect emissions, and thus sounds to me like an emissions problem ... and the entire emissions system is warranted for -- I forget how long, but it is at least 50,000 miles
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    It's not a water-vapor type of white smoke, it's heavy and hangs around, unlike steam would.

    From what was described in the first post, sounds like oil smoke to me. Coolant leaking into a cylinder would dissipate like steam.

    When I first bought my 1988 S-10 with 4.3 V6 (that I still own now with 98,900 miles) it would blow a cloud of bluish-white smoke occasionally upon the morning start-up. Dealer installed a valve stem seal kit and it never did it again.

    BTW the emissions warranty is very limited, and depends what State you are in, too. California has the most extensive emissions coverage. Details in the warranty booklet with your owner's manual. I was surprised some items that are not covered, which would certainly effect emissions.
  • Thanks for all your input folks.

    I have 2 things to report:

    #1 - I called GM and they said that I will get the 60,000 mile warranty just by filling out a form and sending them a $50 transfer fee. I hope that's true; I fear that they just told me this to get me off the phone. Then when the form gets to GM in the mail, they'll send me a letter that says "this particular vehicle had the 36,000 mile warranty. As I mentioned above, my Carfax report lists the warranty as EXPIRED and a 36,000 mile warranty.

    #2 - We've started the Bravada 3 times cold since the billowing while smoke. Guess what, no white smoke the last 3 times. It still sounds like a diesel for the first 5-10 minutes however.

    We will be watching for more white smoke for the next 10 starts. It was very chilly when I got the original white smoke, so maybe it'll show when it goes below 45 degrees like the first time.

    I am in PA, btw. I hope emissions is covered b/c the emission inspection just started this year.

    Also, it does not smell like antifeeze, nor does it look like it (since it would dissipate repidly if it were steasm-type smoke).

    Oldsdriver: is that a bumper-tobumper warranty you got for all those miles?

  • Yes, it is bumper to bumper and I,m sure they will honor their commitment. You can read what Major Guard covers on their web site. It is a great warranty. When you take your car to a GM dealer, they may call in to make sure you are covered and when they find out it is, they want to do the work. I don't Carfax knows anything about extended warranties.

    I don't remember which, but I did not have to transfer the warranty by mail, I either did it on- line or over the phone. Also, I talked to the GM dealership where I was going to have the work done first. I think I paid my transfer fee to them and they called in and helped somehow. Usually the person you talk to is their finance guy/gal. I made so many calls and talked to so many people that I have lost track of the final way it was accomplished. Extending this warranty to more that 60,000 miles is interesting too. You must do it before the car has 57,000 miles and/or 3 months before expiration. It will still be a GMPP but not bumper to bumper but close. The finance person may have to be enlightened on this too.

    You should get clarification on the 100,000 mile engine warranty also, just in case your problem is that you need a new engine.

    I hope you like your bravada as much as I like mine. It is pleasure to drive.
  • My 02 LTZ has 31,000 miles. In the last 5-7,000 miles, I have noticed a ticking noise under acceleration, at 2,000 RMP or higher. When I back off and maintain a steady speed, there is no excessive noise. It almost sounds like spark knock, although it is not. The dealer said this was normal for a TB, but since it only recently started, I don't believe it is normal. Has anyone had a similar noise? Thanks for a reply.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Posts: 273
    Does the noise sound like it is actually coming from the engine, or perhaps the dash? Some owners have had a noise within the instrument cluster in the tachometer.
  • Sounds like it is coming from the engine because when driving at 2,000 - 3,000 RPM, there is no noise. Under acceleration only. I'll check for the tach noise. Thanks.
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    Good deal, sounds like you are on the right track with your Bravada purchase.

    When I had the smoke upon startup problem with my S-10, it was intermittent. In fact, I took it in several times and got the dreaded “cannot duplicate” each time. It would blow smoke in the morning about 1/2 the time for me, so I set up a video camera and recorded it blowing a huge cloud of smoke and took the tape to the dealer. Yep, sure does, was the conclusion, and next day it was fixed for good.

    As for the engine noise there was an issue with piston noise and sometime in mid-2002 they went to a polymer-coated piston to help alleviate the noise.

    The 100,000-mile engine cylinder sleeve warranty applies only to those built in calendar year 2001.
  • I just got a travel trailer and am towing it with my 2002 Bravada (TB twin). However, when I tested the marine battery to see if it was getting juice from the wire harness with the engine on; I got nothing.

    Then I hooked up my volt meter to the negative and to the "power" pin on the built-in wire harness to see if there was any juice and got nothing. To my knowledge, I should get at least 12 volts when the engine is running to charge the marine battery on the RV when towing.

    I checked all my fuses (under the hood and rear seat) and everything is good there.

    Does anyone have any ideas why It's not charging the RV battery when the engine is on (or why there's no juice flowing thru?).
  • Regarding the tach noise, it is very hard to notice (at least it was on mine) unless you turn off the radio and AC fan. Then you could rev the engine up to around 1000 and as it dropped back to idle it would make grinding / rustling noise.

    I went ahead and mentioned it to the dealer because I just wanted to make sure there was no problem with premature failure. The dealer replaced the entire instrument cluster which did fix the problem.

    Wanted to ask a question though. On my original gas guage, the needle would go a little past full when the truck was totally refueled. The new gas guage will not register all the way full, goes to the last tick before full and that is as far as I have been able to get it to go, even after topping off the tank. My Envoy is a 2002, so I was wondering if the gas guages had changed in the last couple years (maybe folks were running out of gas thinking they had more fuel than they did, or some such thing???)

    Anyone else seen this or is mine just mis-calibrated a bit? Every car I have seen registers a bit over when full...
  • polespoles Posts: 23
    i have the same problem with my 02 TB. i took it to the dealership about this problem and they told me it was an exhaust leak. they fixed it, but the ticking noise came back. so i am going to take it in in a couple of weeks
  • I too had the IC replaced on my '02 Envoy. Was done at about 30K, now have 48K. The gauge needles all appear to register the same.
    Around the time the IC was replaced I noticed something different though. The points of all the needles seem to have a 3D effect (only at the tips) against the gauge background. I am not complaining. Because I get tired of my seating position from time to time I might now have a viewing angle of the dash that permits the 3D effect. In other words it could be unrelated to the IC replace.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Posts: 273
    May be just a little mis-calibrated. I put a white face gauge panel in my Envoy from NR Automotive. I had to remove and then reinstall all the needles. The needles will come off and can be reinstalled to better reflect your readings.
  • Funny, I also noticed the 3D effect. On mine it is almost like the ring around the gauges is lit up now, but with a dot at the tip of the needles.

    I thought that was pretty cool, but wasn't sure if it was different or just my imagination.
  • Yeah, I was watching a show on TV where they did a cluster replacement and they mentioned to note where the needles were so they could be matched up on the new cluster.
  • polespoles Posts: 23
    was that on the show "Trucks". i would really like to see a TV show raise up a TB and do dome cool things to it.
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    There's a red wire that needs to be hooked up to the fuse box that's right behind the battery. Take the lid off the fuse box and the terminal will be on the engine-side and front of the fuse box. Hook the red wire, which should be close, to this terminal. If it's already hooked up you've got other problems.
  • Naww, that red wire and all the fuses are all good and set up correctly. Thanks anyway.
  • WAIT! ...THAAAATTT red wire. There's actually a THIRD ring terminal, I thought you were referring to the main red terminal.

    The last few posts got me looking for extra wires just lurking about, and YOU GUESSED IT! I FOUND ONE! WOOHOO!

    The fuse block has an empty ring terminal on it next to the fuse designated for the trailer 12V lead. I thought that maybe that where you hook up a wire to it. I was ready to make my own when I noticed a suspicious bright red wire bulging out of a plastic wire harness. I pulled a little and voila! ...a little ring for a ring terminal was magically connected to its loose end. AND it was exactly the right size for that ring terminal I had just discovered.

    After testing everything with my voltmeter, it's a done deal!

    One note: The trailer battery will always be charging since the juice is ALWAYS on. So just unplug the wire harness when you are finished towing or you'll drain your TV battery (or maybe they'd equalize ...not sure on the results).

    I'm happy. BUT why the he|| isn't this in the owner's mannual? If it weren't for the internet, I"d still be outta luck! Thanks to the folks that helped with their experiences and posts! You have made a difference and I'm thankful!

  • I have rear air in my 04 Trailblazer EXT. The knob that is near the gear shifter turns it on and off for me. In the second row though, I have another panel, on the arm rest/storage bin in between the two front seats. How do you operate that one? I have tried every thing and cannot seem to get that one to work. Is there some special trick? I did not see anything in the owners manual, and do not want to look like a moron asking the dealer. I honestly think it is broken. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • Hello, just wondering where in IL you took your TB for the brake service? I am having the same broblem as well.
  • I'm not certain, but I seem to recall that I can control the center A/C from that very same knob near the shifter. The reason, when the kids have claimed it either to hot or cold in the center, I have just turned that knob. The difference is almost immediate.

    On the main A/C controls (dashboard) there are no adjustments for the rear.
  • Have anyone had a problem with there 03 tralilblazer like the steering wheel making a rubbing sound, whirling sound. It was a tsb on it i took mine in and they have to put a steering support bearing on. So im wondering if anyone had that done and it took care of the sound all the work they did like my ckc engine light came on and a host of other things and ALL OF IT COVERED BY THE GM WARRANTY MAJOR GUARD SO I SAY BUY THE WARRANTY OF SAME COMPANY THAT MADE THE AUTO YOU CANNOT GO WRONG.
  • Thanks for the reply, but that did not answer my question. How does the control panel (in 2nd row of seats) work? I have turned it on with no A/C running in the back, and it does nothing. I have also tried it with it running. No change. How does it work, or am I right in thinking it is not working at all?
  • Greetings,
    Hopefully this will assist you in working the rear air controls.

    1. In the front where the control knob is next to the driver turn the knob until it is on position "zero". This will allow you to control the air flow from the back. If you don't have it on that position riders in the back can't control the flow.

    2. If the knob is turned to positions 1 thru 3 in the front then the driver has control over the flow of heat or air.

    3. Try those tips and it should work out fine. If not hopefully the manual would assist you.
  • ...i would really like to see a TV show raise up a TB...

    There's not much you can do to raise a 4WD TB. The front axle runs right through the oil pan.
  • I have tried that and I could not get the A/C to turn on. It sounds like I need to visit my dealer to get a warranty repair.

    Thanks for the reply. That is how I thought the system is supposed to work. I am glad I am not losing my mind.
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    My dealer is Jennings Chevy in Glenview Il. It sounded like GM was authorizing the no cost rotor changeout. Any dealer should do it.
  • i just recieved the notice in my email that i got the recall for the wiper moter. here is my question. i am in the military and i am stationed overseas. i bought the vechile through the base exchange and they dont service the vehicles. so who do i need to go to. if anyone has any kind of info it would be greatly appriciated.

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