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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy



  • hardhawkhardhawk Posts: 702
    A Hemi equipped Grand Cherokee SRT8 has those tail lights you see pulling away from you. But, it still doesn't look as good as your SS.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    The owner of SS #1 has cracked the PCM... and is getting some amazing times from the LS2. So, I wouldn't pronounce the SRT8 Jeep the winner just yet...
  • hardhawkhardhawk Posts: 702
    That would be interesting to read about. I'm sure that both of those vehicles could be tweaked to deliver better performance. Isn't is amazing that for a reasonable amount of money there are two SUV's that can perform at the level these two stock vehicles can? It is just mind blowing to me. What is next!?!
  • snokingsnoking Posts: 47
    We have a 2004 Rainier V8, I picked up four take off wheels out of Arizona. I put Les Schwab 245/65R17 studded Wintercats SST's on them. These are the Cooper Discoverer M&S.


    Cooper makes it in the standard 255/60R17, but Les Schwab does not have that size. At any rate, I am very happy with the way the vehicle handles with these tires. Went skiing Friday and Saturday. Played around in the Stevens Pass parking lot last night, and it seems to handle well in the snow. Handling is very good and the mushy handling of the Michelin does not seem present with the snow tires. I am going to try 35 lbs all the way around in the spring for the Michelin's.

    The road to Mount Baker ski area is a very twisty and the Rainie handles very good with the snow tires. The V8 makes for spirited performance on roads like this, with great passing acceleration when needed.

    To review the Rainier a bit:

    1. Head light push for highbeam pull for low is really bad. What happen to click high - click low. Wonder if there is a different GM switch that could be installed.

    2. Storage and cup holds in the fronts seats in very lacking.

    3. Seats could have been more contour ed.

    4. Would have liked the cruise control on the steering wheels, but it is already full of buttons.

    5. Windshield washer fluid capacity to limited.

    6. Folding down the rear seats requires moving the front seats forward.

    After having the Rainie for 10 months. I give it a 9 out of 10 rating.


    1. V8 smoothness and power.

    2. Quiet on the road.

    3. Size and turning radius.

    4. Looks!

    5. Bose Stereo with XM radio.

    6. Buick Service.

  • snokingsnoking Posts: 47
    I sure would like to know if a switch could be installed to lock the transfer case in low traction conditions? SNOKING
  • gam2gam2 Posts: 316
    Yeah, I'm amazed at the 12 mpg they get on premium unleaded......... :(
  • raleighraleigh Posts: 98
    Me too. However, I am intrigued by the suspension changes GM made to the SS to make a really decent handler. Does anyone know if these can be retrofitted to the "regular" triplets? Also, I see where they went with Corvette brakes. Does anyone know if these are just the pads or calipers and rotors? They could make a very nice upgrade. :shades:
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Posts: 273
    I have put the TB SS front springs on my '05 Envoy Denali. Much better for me than OEM.
    SS brakes are different pads, calipers, rotors, hoses, according to the parts book. I'll be doing this as soon as all parts are available from GM.
  • hardhawkhardhawk Posts: 702
    If you are buying this kind of vehicle you shouldn't be worrying about the fuel consumption. World class performance does come with a price. Here in KS the property taxes alone would be a bite, not to mention the insurance.
  • raleighraleigh Posts: 98
    01 hoe - I'm curious: why did you just put the SS front springs on your vehicle? What about shocks, sway bars, rear springs, etc., which are, after all, designed to work together?

    I have Eibach springs, Bilstein HD shocks, and Hotchkis sway bar on my '04 Envoy. They lower the vehicle about 1 1/2 inches and it now sits level, not [non-permissible content removed] high. Needless to say, it handles a lot better, but I'm always looking for more.
  • gplumgplum Posts: 1
    I have to leave my trailblazer sit for 10 to 12 days at a time. And when I return, the battery will be dead every time. The truc came with a 600 cca battery and the dealer replaced it the last time in, saying that it was just a bad trip out, 10 days, the battery was dead just like the first time. The dealer now claims that the .025 mv draw on battery from the alarm system will drain the battery if not started every 3 or 4 days.
    Any one else having this problem...Any Ideas ?
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Posts: 273
    I often leave my Envoy sit in the garage for several days between starts. No problem with startup.
    Do you have an aftermarket alarm system? That could drain.
    Have you considered a larger capacity battery?
    Are you still under warranty?
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Posts: 273
    I put the SS front springs on to replace the Ground Force ones. Now not quite as low as the GF, but the ride and handling are better. Also much better than OEM. Also have the Hotchkis rear sway bar, and the rear is lowered by adjusting the load levelers on the air suspension. Works for me, not sure of results for others.
  • i am changing the rear brakes on my 02 Trailblazer, but i cannot get the bolts to budge at all. i was wondering if anyone has any suggestion on what to do. i have tried a breaker bar and everything. any suggestions would be great.
  • gmoudygmoudy Posts: 67
    If you heard the dealer right, .025 mv WILL NOT drain the battery over the period you state enough to the point that it will not start your vehicle. Years ago, I had a similar problem with my Camaro. Had the dealership replace the battery under warrenty. About a month later, it started to act up again. Took back to dealership. They ran tests. They stated that my self installed digital clock was drawing 110 mv and that was causing the problem. NO WAY. I went and bought an aftermarket battery and never had any more problems. Dealers use that as an excuse. Keep on them to find the problem. You might have gotten another bad battery, unluckly. If you get no satisfaction, do what I did and go buy an aftermarket battery with a higher CCA.
  • quarquequarque Posts: 41
    Well the dealer's statement is just baloney. First of all, battery drain is measured in Amps or mA (1 milliAmp = .001 Amp) not Volts or millivolts (mV). So if it was .025 mA that is not enough to do anything over 10 days (10 x 24 x .000025 = .006 Amp-hour!). I think the self-discharge rate is almost that! A decent battery should put out 50 amp-hours easily. Ask them how they measured the drain. The proper way is to pull a cable off & connect an ammeter in series with the cable and the battery terminal. Any other method will give erroneous data and measuring Volts is just plain WRONG (unless they used a series resistor in place of the ammeter).

    Either your battery is junk OR it is not being properly charged OR the drain is much higher than they said. I have let my mini-fridge run 24 hours straight and had no starting problems. That thing draws 1 Amp (24 amp-hours total). So it is NOT your alarm!
  • raleighraleigh Posts: 98
    I have too many vehicles and not that many places to go, so some of them sit for long periods -- like two or three weeks. The only problem I've ever had starting any of them is with OEM batteries. Replace them with an Interstate Megatron or similar and you shouldn't have any more problems. Of course, it's also a good idea to hook up a mini-charger to make sure the battery stays fully charged.
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    The parasitic drain is considerably higher than you are calculating. It can be from 10 milliAmps to 30 mA or so depending on the vehicle.

    From an old April 2002 GM Techlink article-
    "The recommendation for maximum parasitic drain is around 30 mA (0.030 amps). A typical drain today actually falls into the 7 – 12 mA range, even though some vehicles do approach the maximum. Multiply the drain (in amps) by the time (in hours) the battery sits without being recharged. The result is the amount of AH consumed by the parasitic drain. The actual drain may be small, but over time the battery grows steadily weaker. Here’s an example. A vehicle with a 30 mA drain and a fully-charged 70 RC battery will last 23 days. But if that battery is at only 65% of full charge, it is going to last only 15 days before causing a no-start."

    Also if a car battery had been drained down a few times, it's total available capacity will be reduced from doing this. That's why special purpose deep cycle batteries exist. No brand of car batteries like being deeply discharged. I managed to kill an Optima "Red Top" in a vehicle from letting it sit too long between uses. You might want to consider a small battery maintenance trickle charger designed for long term storage to keep on it for extended intervals.
  • seifordseiford Posts: 68
    I have some rust forming on the bottom inside lip of all 4 doors. I saw some earlier posts about this.. anyone else have it repaired under warranty?
  • pj41pj41 Posts: 2
    I had the same problem except mine was a 2003. It got down to where if it sat for 2 days it was dead as a doornail. I went to Sears and got the biggest cca battery that would fit. Haven't had a problem since.
  • snokingsnoking Posts: 47
    New Tahoe looks more like the triplets than the old Tahoe. SNOKING
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    CCA isn't the whole story though. If you let a vehicle sit for extended times, "Reserve Capacity" - how many hours it can sit before a no start condition - is more relevant in that situation. Most batteries that are designed for higher RC and deeper discharging-recharging will have slightly less CA or CCA.
  • gmfangmfan Posts: 188
    I drove by my dealership to see what kind of vehicles are left. Let me tell you the lot was empty! I hope GM across the board did well on red tag event. I saw a few Tahoes and Silverado 1500's. There were two, only two, Trailblazers on the lot and this is a decent size dealership. Does that mean my dealership is in trouble or would you say that is a good sign? It is the only Chevy dealership in town. The Buick/GMC dealership also has very little inventory, has only one Rainer on it and no Envoys! Toyota, the only foreign dealership in town, has full inventory. What is going on?
  • jsc5jsc5 Posts: 3
    Just curious...I have an '03 Trailblazer EXT and the dash vents ONLY are not working.......all other vents seem to operate...could this be a resistor problem as well? This problem exists whether the a/c is on or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • quarquequarque Posts: 41
    NBC nightly news announced last night that for the first time in many years Chevy beat Ford last year in sales and also TB beat Explorer in sales. Maybe that explains the empty lots!
  • rad225rad225 Posts: 15
    There is a motorized air damper door under the dash that can fail. You will get air at your feet but not at your face. Try raising and lower the temperature selector from 60 to 90 degrees and see if the heater /AC control system moves the air damper.
    Good luck, hope you are under warranty.
  • No help on this? Anyone? :confuse:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I guess trying to tweak OEM navigation systems is hard; there's occasional similar complaints over in the Navigation / GPS Systems discussion with various makes. You may try searching sites like this one.

    Steve, Host
  • I am having the same exact problem. Did you ever find out what the problem was? For the life of me, I can not figure out why (when I cut the wheel hard to the left or right), the vehicle stutters on acceleration as if it can't overcome the resistance in the front cv joints. It's starts bucking and carrying on like something is seriously wrong and ultimately can not negotiate the delivery of torque to the hubs when the cv's are in a maxxed out turn. Other thab that, driving in a straight line is fine.
  • I had the exact same symptoms on my 02 Bravada - it seems like it is stuck in 4 wheel drive. There are a couple of bulletins on the transfer case. Mine was the actuator motor/sensor which required a new 4wd computer because the replacement is an updated design. Also there is a bulletin on "flushing" the transfer case because the original fluid causes the clutch packs to stick. Bite the bullet and have this done at a dealer. I saw other postings of people complaining about whining sounds from the front wheels - this is the same problem - get it fixed before you tear up your front CV joints!
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