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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy



  • tb4metb4me Posts: 41
    Hi all hope everyone is well. Havn't been on in a while. 210,000 on the 2002 TB. Had a RPM surge a couple of weeks ago. Big drop from idle to almot stalling and in some cases stalling. Changed both O2 Sensors and every thing seemed to be ok for a week until today when it started again. Seems like the key is being shut of then it recaptures the 750 rpm idle. No codes or engine light . Any suggestions? Fuel filter changed too a few months ago as well as the spark plugs.
  • believe it or not but i had almost the exact same problems, i took my 02 trlblzer to the dealer and they replaced the ignition switch and that fixed all of my problems.
  • i have a 2006 buick rainer and the low beams do not work. all other lights work,everything else is normal. what do i need to do.
  • I believe I had this identical problem on my 2004 Rainier about a month ago! Did both low beams (left and right headlights) go out at the same time? If so, it is most likely going to be a bad relay. The part is kind of pricey but a very easy fix. Check your fuse first, and if the fuse is still good, it's most likely the relay. A good test is the cooling fan relay. Switch that with the headlights and see if they come on. You'll want to avoid starting the vehicle without the relay in the cooling fan spot because obviously you could overheat but also the service engine light will come on and you'll have to get that cleared out.

    Hope this helps!!
  • Can anyone tell me what class hitch came std from the factory on my 2006 Envoy?


  • hardhawkhardhawk Posts: 702
    Did you look in your owner's manual to see what it says? Should be in there.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Should be a class 3.
  • when in doubt ask your friendly buick service manager----but try and go to a buick dealer who also sells chevy trailblazers or gmc envoys they will be more apt to know because they deal with trucks

    ken z
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    Probably a Class III but could be a Class IV. I looked a little and the Envoy seems to have had either a 4300 Lb rating or maybe over 5000# with a V-8. So, if the rating is less than 5000 lbs, class III over 5000 lbs probably class IV. Both should have a 2" receiver.

    I found this that shows the max tow capacity of the 2006 Envoy as 6600# which would fall into the Class IV range. Probably depends on engine and gear ratio, of course assume it requires the Tow Package:

    Class 1 (Class I) hitch
    Trailer hitch with capacity of up to 2,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight.

    Class 2 (Class II) hitch
    Trailer hitch with weight-carrying rating of up to 3,500 lbs gross trailer weight and 300/350 lbs tongue weight.

    Class 3 (Class III) hitch
    Trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 5,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. Also sometimes used to refer to a hitch with any 2" receiver, regardless of rating.

    Class 4 (Class IV) hitch
    Trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 10,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 1,000 - 1,200 lbs tongue weight. Although many times any hitch with a capacity greater than 5,000 lbs gross weight is referred to as a Class 4.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239

    Just to advise my wife & I bought a 2009 Montana EWB van approx 6 weeks ago. Yes. Fresh off my local GM dealer's lot - along with a huge final discounts (compared to other mini-van companies). This GM van isn't as physically large as our previous 2001 Safari van but it's got much better "take off" and much better "braking power". And, it's much funner to drive - compared to our previous "bulk" size Safari van. And with newer technology engine, our smaller Montana van gets much better MPGs. For "long haul" family vacation trips, we'll tow a little 4 x 6 utility trailer - for our suit cases and stuff (since inside storage volume has been dramatically reduced).

    For a picture, surf: - - -Trailer-Stance-1.jpg

    Was thinking of replacing our Safari van with an Envoy XL I6 but the gas prices keep going up and up in my area. And, my family no longer tows heavy weight utility trailers. After "the math" several times, our new Montana van will cost much less. And during a 10 year period, its gas savings will almost pay for itself...

    Just wanted to provide an update...

  • drewmichdrewmich Posts: 3
    Just started having this intermittent ignition problem. 50,000 mi - when I turn the key in the ignition - it does nothing. I thought it might be related to the transmission limiter that requires the car to be in park ... but that dosn't solve it by putting pressing on the gear shift and trying to start it.

    Won't crank and does nothing. I try for 2-5 minutes - remove the key - raise and lower the steering wheel as I think it might be a loose ignition switch wire ... but nothing. The WHAM - it will start and act fine for a couple of days then it happens again.

    Any techs out there that know of this problem?
  • floepfloep Posts: 7
    Pass lock is sensitive to magnetism in the proximity of the keylock make sure you do not have magnetic toys on your keychain. Try both park and neutral Floep
  • handyandy3handyandy3 Posts: 21
    my 2005 did the same thing about two months ago----and it turned out to be the ignition switch---I adjusted the switch (it would only move slightly) but alas it only lasted for a couple of days then the switch stopped working completely----so I replaced the switch and it has been fine since then

    ken z

    P S the switch was only about $40.00 from the dealer if I remember correctly
  • drewmichdrewmich Posts: 3
    handy - do you have a set of install procedures you can share? Did you have to disconnect the neg on the battery - etc. Thanks
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    If you are still under warranty, any GM Dealer will take care of it for free. It is a common problem for GMC Envoy/Chevy Trailblazer/Buick Rainier, etc.

  • rotorguy1rotorguy1 Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 TB EXT (70k miles) and have a roar in the front drivers side wheel. When I'm driving straight or turning left the "roar" is present. When I turn to the right like going around a curve the "roar" goes away. I just replaced the drivers side hub assembly yesterday and the roar is still there as described above. The brakes are fine and the backing plate is not bent or rubbing against the rotor. Any suggestions wouls be greatly appreciated. The noise is definitely coming from the drivers side front wheel well.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    What's the wear pattern on that tire? Is the outer edge of the tread smooth or is rough and the overall tread worn unevenly?
  • rotorguy1rotorguy1 Posts: 5
    Hi--That tire is worn unevenly across and under the wear bars. They are "bald" in one spot on the inside edge. I have a set of Cooper CTS on order that will be installed next week based on the reviews in Consumer Reports. I kind of suspected it could be the tires but never realized they could "roar" like that. I also installed new outer tie rod ends on both sides and will have an alignment as the new tires are installed. Would there be any other likely causes? Hopefully it is just the "bad" tires. Thanks a lot for your help!!

    Guess I really didn't need spend 2 hours to install that hub assmbly but from looking at some of the posts here at least it's done!
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    It could be the tire. When some tires get worn bad they can get quite noisy. By your description, if I understand it right, it sounds like you may have alignment problems and it's showing in uneven tire wear.
    Keeping the tires rotated on a regular basis really helps. The fronts will wear on the edges much more than the rears. Regular rotation will help a lot to keep the wear more even.
  • rotorguy1rotorguy1 Posts: 5
    Thanks Burdawg. I'll post again next week after the new tries are put on and alignment is done.
  • rotorguy1rotorguy1 Posts: 5
    I had the new tires put on and alignment done and the noise is still there in the drivers side front wheel well. Again, when driving straight or steering to the left the groan/rubbing noise is present. When I turn to the right like when I'm going around a curve the noise goes away. As soon as the wheel is striaghtened, the noise comes back. I did put a new hub assembly on the drivers side front and I'm wondering if it could be a "bad" one. Also, when going over a quick rise in the road where some of the weight is taken off the wheels the noise goes away and comes back again as soon as the full weight of the vehicle is back on the wheels. Any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Make sure that the inner fender plastic lining isn't loose in the front and being forced back against the tire when you get up to speed. That has happened twice on the right side of mine. It doesn't make a groaning noise but I can easily hear the rubbing noise. There's a plastic fastener that holds on the lower outer corner. Otherwise, the only thing I can think of is the hub assembly.
  • handyandy3handyandy3 Posts: 21
    even if you purchased a new hub assembly from a dealer or reputable auto parts store it is possible that you might have gotten a bad one--so check the hub again also check to see that you didnt over tighten the large nut that holds the hub onto the spindle

    ken z
  • pepito51pepito51 Posts: 16
    I have 2002 Envoy--7.5 years old with 79,000 mi. I am due for oil change/tire rotation. What else should I consider having done?
    1) Brakes have been "checked" each rotation; so far they have said no problem. Is it unusual to go 7 years/79,000 mi. with no brake tuneup? How long these normally go before they need new pads/ rotor turned?
    2) What about belts and hoses? How long do these usually last before people have been changing for new ones?
    3) Coolant, transmission fluid, air filter up-to-date and not due.
    4) Should I get new axle fluid? It's never been changed.
    5) Factory tires are still doing OK at 79,000.
    Thanks for suggestions.
  • rotorguy1rotorguy1 Posts: 5
    Just wanted to update on my TB. With symptoms described above and the roar or rubbing in the drivers side wheel well. I changed the drivers side assembly and the noise was still present and I then re-checked the torque setting on the axle nut and it was OK--right at 103 ft-lbs. When I was having my aligment done after new tires were installed the mechanic there said even though the noise seemed like it was in the divers side front that it was most likely the passenger side hub assembly that was "bad". He said whatever way you turn the wheel to get the noise to stop, then that was the side that is bad. In this case when I turned the wheel to the right the noise stopped. I then just today installed the right side assembly the roar is gone.I guess I shouldn't have to worry about the drivers side assembly going bad for a while now either!! Also,I wanted to thank Burdawg and handyandy3 for their help/suggestions. Thanks again guys.
  • Just bought a 2006 Rainier. I had a local RV dealer install my Tekonsha Voyager brake controller that was working fine on a previous truck two weeks ago.. The installer expressed concern; wondering if the brakes were going to work but he still let it leave out the door.

    The electric brakes aren't working. The light on the controller is not on when hooked up to the camper. Camper turn signals, taillights, etc all work fine; just no brakes.

    One person told me that it probably needed a fuse...but info here has said the fuse/battery connection is unrelated to the electric brakes.

    Any ideas or thoughts?

  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I assume your talking about an electric brake controller. They are actually pretty simple in how they operate. They detect you applying the brakes in the tow vehicle, usually by connecting to the brake light switch, so when you apply the brakes the controller will start applying current to the electric brakes on the trailer. There's typically some adjustments to tailor the controller to the load you will be towing, like the speed at which the brakes are applied and the latency of how long it waits from when you apply the brakes to when it starts to supply braking power to the trailer. There's also usually a button that will apply full force to the trailer brakes all at once, for emergency use or to test the trailer brakes at low speed. Old timers like me remember the "manual" controllers that were just a lever coming out of the controller that you moved to apply the trailer brakes, moving it more meant more braking. If you forgot to release it once stopped you wouldn't be able to get moving again!
    If it's not working then either it's not detecting the braking by the tow vehicle, not properly connected to the trailer's brakes, or isn't wired correctly, or has gone out. There quite typically is a fuse in the main line that supplies current to the trailer brakes, since it's usually wired directly to a 12V source. It could be an inline block type fuse (30Amp). The controller itself is probably fused also. The camper lights don't have anything to do with it, they are different circuits.
  • handyandy3handyandy3 Posts: 21
    I have a 05 rainier that I use to haul a travel trailer with and I had a local kid install my controller and he had to pick up a 30amp J-fuse before everything would work---there is a slot for the fuse just read the inside of the battery cover---I hope this solves your problem

    ken z
  • Problem fixed.

    Turned out the 30 amp fuse under the hood was blown. Replaced the fuse and now everything is good. I should have checked this first; but I had misunderstood some previous postings on the subject....thinking a fuse was not involved with the electric brake circuit.

    Thank you so much for the help,
  • slipkidslipkid Posts: 10
    I think your biggest thing should be looking into new tires, 79k is pretty high mileage for a set.

    Other than that, my 2002 just hit 109k. Never had belts changed, after I asked the mechanic to look at them, he said not to bother, all the other stuff you mentioned i did for the first time at 100k, except for air filter.

    been such a low maintanence vehicle.

    the only issues were redoing the brakes around 70k, got screwed by midas on that.
    had two rear shocks replaced at 100k for cheap.

    of course my fan clutch is LOUD, but the mechanic said it would prob cost $400-$500 and even then he couldn't guarantee the new one wouldn't do teh same thing.
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