Chevy Tahoe Starting and Stalling Problems
Has anyone had any luck getting their stalling issue resolved? I have an 09 Tahoe that has died three times while driving. One time had to run off into the ditch to avoid an accident. Took it to the dealership and they said "Nothing in the computer to tell us what to fix". They don't even care.
SEE ALSO: Diagnosing Stalling Problems
SEE ALSO: Diagnosing Stalling Problems
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tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
some ignition problem don't signalize the computer like soleniod problems or coil pack problems. sometimes you can get moisture in the tank and it won't signalize the computer and give you a code. what i would do first is to run the gas out of the tank as much as possible then get some techron at a autozone or pep boys or walmart, Techron exclusively. then go to the gas station and fill the tank to the amount on the directions on the bottle then run it on the freeway about 20 to a half an hour if nothing changes its a ignition problem if it changes, as in get better, its a fuel problem.
I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. How long has the concern been present? Can you please email me your VIN? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Thanks for some advice!
It runs and sounds better but...The idle is a little rough, but not much. The idle stays pretty much at 600-700 in drive, a little higher in park. But if I turn on the A/C It will stall.
It's also a little hesitant on acceleration.
I read in the forum that I could be looking at the VSS, the EGR valve, or fuel pump (I'm really hoping not on the pump).
Also the Mass Air Flow sensor has been mentioned, but I can't seem to find a part listed anywhere for a '95 Tahoe. Does my truck even have one?
Any help would be appreciated.
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His solution:
There is a thin ground wire located on the back side of the engine block. It is on the passenger side and you have to remove the plastic engine cover to find it. The connection at the block is a bolted ring lug. This connection was loose on the Tahoe of the guy giving me this information. He moved the connection to terminate with the braided ground strap that connects at the firewall on the drivers side of the engine. He claimed this solved all his problems.
I checked the ground wire on my truck and it was tight. I removed the bolt, cleaned the surfaces and re-installed the ground wire. I was recharging the battery during this time. I also checked all the other wires I could to ensure none were loose. The wire bundles I did come across in the engine compartment, under the dash and in the steering column I moved around as best I could on the chance there may be a chaffed wire somewhere causing a short.
After completing the battery hook-up I tried to start the truck and found it started right up. This was done on 2/21 and the intermittent electrical gremlins have not returned. After starting the truck I drove it over some of the roughest roads in the area trying to make it hiccup again but it did not repeat itself.
The truck has started up each time since then.
I know it seems questionable whether one small ground wire/connection could be the source of the problems but the results cannot be argued. If you are having similar issues with your truck you can't lose looking at this solution before tossing hundreds of dollars to your mechanic or more to the dealer.
I had two separate issues hit at the same time. First was bad fuel pump. 2002 Chevy Tahoe acted like it ran out of fuel. Changed fuel filter myself but had mechanic do fuel pump ($340.00). Then while driving next day Tahoe just shut off and would not restart. Next morning it started but just for a short time. Same thing next day. I HATE MESSING WITH THE STARTER. But guess where the CPS is located...yep right above the starter
If you can easily jump start your vehicle, then your battery was in fact pretty dead for whatever reason.
Best thing to do is charge the battery with a slow charger, and once it's up, run the car and either you or someone at the very least put a Voltmeter across the two battery poles. As the engine revs up you should be reading at least something like 13. 7 to 14.2 Volts--somewhere in there. If you're reading 12V or close to that, then the alternator is not charging.
As for the heater blowing cold, first thing to check there is proper coolant level. If you are low on coolant you won't get warm air.
If the coolant it up, then check the two heater hoses going into, and coming out of, your heater core. Check them from the engine bay and feel the input hose and the exit hose. If the input is warm and the exit hose cold, then you have a heater core blockage or a bad heater valve. If the input hose is cold, then there must be a restriction in the thermostat or a faulty water pump.
If both input and output hoses are warm but you still get no warm air in the car, there must be a diverter door under the dash that is stuck.